Running Wild

This mountain lion story we’ve been chasing the past few weeks has legs — good, strong, healthy legs that are taking us on a wild ride through Franklin County and beyond. Yep, we may be onto something here, judging from the steady response.

The reports keep coming, all of them worthy of attention. Seems that once witnesses start disclosing what they’ve seen, others are more willing to join the conversation, no longer concerned that they’ll be greeted with ridicule and scorn. Hopefully it’ll continue.

So far, 12 eye witnesses have contacted this space, seven by e-mail, four by telephone, and one by personal visit, snapshots of cougar tracks in hand. Also, what originally set this runaway train in motion was a cat track in fresh Conway snow observed during deer season by me. I queried two abutting landowners and found that both had either seen a big cat there or knew someone who had. Also, a farmer who lives above me reported three sightings in a cornfield this past fall. All tolled, that’s 18 sightings or evidence of big cats. Can there be any doubt there are more people out there with tales to tell? Don’t bet against it.

Twelve of the reported sightings occurred in Conway, Shelburne, Deerfield or Ashfield, many within a small area on both sides of the Deerfield River. Three other big cats were spotted in the Montague-Wendell area, two were seen in southern Vermont border towns, and another was reported in Colrain. Interestingly, two of the people who contacted this space reported two separate sightings, one of them actually two in the same location over a two-week period. That man, my old baseball coach and hunting companion Tommy Valiton, knows a big cat when he sees one. He was once on the scene of a Texas kill and helped a friend field-dress the animal.

“The one I saw here was in 1990, on my way to a stress test in Springfield,” said Valiton, who lives in Buckland. “I was traveling with my wife and a friend and we were taking the back road to Route 91, through the Old World.”

As they traveled through a wetland, there, right in the road, was a big cat, which acted confused, according to Valiton. “It went one way, then the other, looked at us and took off. We go a good look. Then two weeks later, I’m taking the same route, this time with my bride, and it crossed the road right in front of us in the same place.”

Not long after that, at a Shelburne Falls social gathering of Frontier Regional School teachers, members of a bowling league, colleague Al Richards from Sunderland approached Valiton.

“I took the back road in and you’ll never guess what I saw.”

“Let me guess: a mountain lion?”

“Howdya know?

“Because I’ve seen two recently.”

Richards was impressed.

The other person who reported twice seeing a big cat is Sean King of Colrain. The first sighting took place “several years ago” traveling home from bowhunting along Jacksonville Stage Road in Halifax, Vt.

“I knew immediately it was a cat by the way it moved. The last thing I saw was its long, skinny cat’s tail going over a stone wall. It acted exactly like a house cat only it was bigger than a dog, 80 pounds or so. I felt as though I had seen a ghost.”

His second sighting occurred while driving up Colrain Mountain, not far from the sculptor’s iron rendition of a black panther along the east side of the steep road.

“It was a cat the same as the one I had seen before, with the unmistakable cat’s tail. It crossed the road right in front of me. And just to make my story completely unbelievable, it crossed within sight of the sculpture.”

Eighty-two-year-old Robert Remillard of Northfield is no stranger to big cats or stories about them. He called on the phone to offer some historical perspective about a big cat he witnessed in 1940 on a foggy slope in the village of Green River, Vt.

“I saw it briefly on a side hill, then it bound into the fog and disappeared. There were other cat sightings around that time in southern Vermont. One I remember was in Dummerston, where a cat walked between two girls through a ravine. It created quite a stir.”

In fact, Remillard said the Brattleboro Sportsmen’s Club offered a $100 reward for the cat, a pretty hefty price in those days. Then the Bellows Falls and Rutland newspapers offered $50 rewards.

Remillard has carried an interest in big cats ever since. He once attended a presentation by United States Fish & Wildlife biologist Virginia Fifield, who was stationed in western Mass. during the 1980s specifically to investigate cat sightings. Over a decade, Fifield responded to many reported sightings but was able to confirm just one cougar track in a Goshen mud-hole puddle.

Remillard said he attended Fifield’s evening talk at UMass with his brother. “She said you could tell a cat track because they left no claw prints, and that cats followed the food chain. Wherever there are a lot of deer (or turkeys), they’ll be there. There was a woman from Four-Mile Brook Road in Northfield at the meeting who had seen big cat. Makes sense. There were a lot of deer up there at the time.”

The cat tales keep coming. There are many more right here in a pile on my desk. Let’s run with it.

Take Two

I can’t say I’m surprised that last week’s cougar column drew some feedback from local eyewitnesses. In fact, truth be known, I was hoping to stir the pot. Seems like a great cabin-fever topic.

The controversial subject of New England mountain lions has lain dormant in this space for some time despite knowledge of many reported sightings either in the press or by word of mouth over the past decade. I have not turned a deaf ear to such reports, just stopped commenting on them, not wanting to “beat a dead horse.” But like I said last week, when the big cats start showing up in your back yard, it’s time to pay attention.

By mid-morning of the day last week’s column hit the street there were two e-mails waiting in my Inbox, one from equine enthusiast Laurie Neely of Orange, the other from longtime Sunderland native and current Montague resident Karle Kushi. The next day another response came by way of the telephone. It was old friend and semi-neighbor Joe Judd, who unbeknownst to him had been mentioned anonymously in the column he wanted to discuss. Two of the three respondents reported seeing a big cat; the third had seen and photographed a track that had been brought to his attention by the landowner. Interestingly, two of the three witnesses had been rebuffed by authorities when reporting their sighting. The officials understandably do not want to spawn public hysteria.

Kushi reported seeing a big cat and later tracks left by one in north Sunderland 30 or more years ago. “They’ve been around the area for a long time,” he wrote. “My wife had one jump across the road in front of her car about five years ago on her way to work at UMass. It happened on Turners Falls Road, just before Randall Road, where the power lines cross, coming from the Montague landfill.”

Neely’s observation, coincidentally also on her way to work at UMass, occurred last fall in the Wendell State Forest. The big cat crossed Farley Road in front of her vehicle. “There is no doubt about it,” she wrote. “I had a clear view, maybe 50 yards away. … I was driving toward Millers Falls from Wendell. It was crossing north to south, into the woods from the side of the road that borders the Millers River. Dog-sized, light brownish in color, it had a very long tail that curled up toward the end.”

Believing she had made an important observation, Neely reported the sighting by telephoning the United States Fish & Wildlife Service in Hadley and posting it on the Five-College Bulletin Board. Many responses from people who had seen big cats appeared quickly on the bulletin board, two of them reporting cougar-sightings in Leverett and Montague, “in the hills that are pretty-much contiguous with Wendell State Forest,” according to Neely.

“A number of people (from the bulletin board) contacted me to say they too had seen big cats, and that the F&W office had a policy of not responding or verifying cougar sightings??? Indeed, my message was never returned.”

Judd, who spends a great deal of time in the western Franklin County woods, has never seen a big cat himself, but he was alerted to the presence of one in his neighborhood, as I was, and went to the scene of a sighting, where he discovered a clearly discernible track and photographed it. Knowing many high-ranking MassWildlife officials personally, he disclosed his discovery, offered the photo to substantiate the presence of a big cat in Shelburne and was snubbed by an old friend.

“I was a little surprised by the response,” Judd said. “Apparently, they don’t want to publicize these things. I’ll come by with the photo Saturday afternoon after 3, so you can take a look.”

I looked it over and it looked like a cat track to me … a big one.

Opening Tease

So what should we make of these mountain-lion sightings cropping up throughout New England?

They’re certainly noting new. The first sighting I recall hearing about was way back in the 70s when construction crews were clearing the forest on both sides of a Roaring Brook hollow for the new Whately Glen reservoir along the Whately/Conway line. The news spread fast around South Deerfield.

“Yeah, the guys were sitting there at midday eatin’ sandwiches and — Bingo! — outa nowhere steps a mountain lion, long, sloping tail, and it walks right past them, bold as brass.” At least that’s the story I recall.

Since then, there have been many similar sightings. More than you can count. Northeast Kingdom, White Mountains, backwoods Maine, North Shore, Quabbin, Goshen State Forest, Shelburne, Colrain. You name it, a cougar’s been seen there. Or at least it seems that way.

Myself, I’ve been in a lull when it comes to writing about big cats, but I’ve more than covered it over the years, and circumstances dictate that I touch on it again.

Why?

Well, it all started in Shelburne at the start of shotgun deer season when an old softball teammate piqued my interest. Right there, in a veritable wildlife refuge near my home that I’ve hunted some, he claimed there’s been a big cat prowling. Saw evidence, had a local woodsman inspect it and, sure enough, appeared to be a big cat.

Bemused, I filed it in my memory banks, behind all the other similar info I’ve encountered over the past 30-some years, and moseyed on.

About two weeks later, on my normal routine with my dogs, I stopped to chat with a neighboring farmer and, lo and behold, more food for thought.

“Have you seen the mountain lion?” she asked.

“No, what mountain lion?”

“There’s been one around here. Three people have seen it around my cornfield the past couple of months. If you see it when you’re hunting, shoot it. I want to see it.”

Hmmmmmmm? Interesting.

Here I am, not two miles as the crow flies from the site my old softball buddy identified as a big-cat’s domain, and now another report, in my mind a credible report.

At the very least, it gets you thinking. You start to wonder, if there’s a big cat in my neighborhood, then why haven’t I seen it or at least sign of it? A puzzling question.

I discuss it with my hunting buddy, run it by my wife and ponder it over and over again: If there’s a big cat living where I’ve run my dogs twice daily for a couple of years, wouldn’t you think I’d be aware of its presence?

Maybe, maybe not.

Within days of my impromptu neighborhood chat, I’m hunting along the Deerfield River in Conway and my hunting buddy, an old trapper from way back, approaches me in the woods. We’ve completed a small push, four or five deer, fresh tracks in the snow, have burned us, fleeing down a steep bank toward the Deerfield, and it’s over. Off to somewhere else.

“Hey, Bags,” he says, motioning with his hand and arm, “follow me, there’s something I want to show you. It’s only a little out of our way.”

So off we go, him leading the way through the hardwood stand. We pop out into a rye field, angle toward the back corner some 80 yards away, poke into the tangled edge overlooking the river far below, and pick up his boot prints. He walks maybe 30 feet, stops, studies the ground and points.

“Yeah, right here, take a look at this and tell me what you think.”

Two feet from his right foot is a round impression in the snow, big around as a softball, pads clearly discernible. Cat tracks. Big ones.

“Let me tell you something: I’ve trapped bobcats, 30-plus pounders, and that’s no bobcat. Too big. And it’s no bear, either. Gotta be a big cat.”

We backtrack, find a few more clean impressions and I’m convinced. Big cat. The kind you’d hate to see curling its lip at you.

“We’ll have to stop and talk to the farmer one of these days, see if he’s seen a big cat in the neighborhood.”

A few days later, my friend talks to the farmer on the phone and asks him the big question.

“No, I’ve never seen one but my son did a few years ago, t’other side the river, over by Cosby’s. He said there was no mistakin’ it. Had a long, sloping tail.”

A few days later we’re shootin’ the breeze in an abutting landowner’s dooryard, talking about deer and turkeys and bears, and we pose the question. Ever seen a big cat here?

“Yeah, I swear I saw one over there, across the road, walking through the pasture. At first I thought it was a deer, then a coyote, but then I saw the tail. Sure it was a mountain lion. Never seen it since, but I guess they’re around.”

Perhaps so, but they must have an uncanny ability to avoid people … most of the time.

Getting By

If you want to find out where you stand physically, try following two enthusiastic English Springer Spaniels through dense, wet, tangled cover for the first few days of the pheasant season. It’ll put you in you place fast if you’ve made your living sitting behind a desk for any length of time. So I guess it’s a fact that crippled office rats who refuse the health club can’t hunt forever. They just think they can.

I know, I’m one of them — north of a half-century and feeling like the plump warhorse I am, fatigued, groins aching and wondering when the day will arrive when I won’t be up to the task. Something tells me that day will come, or at least I’ll have to change my style, but please allow my denial to last a little longer. I prefer it that way, regardless of the warning signs my body is transmitting.

Thank God I finally gave in and strapped a knee brace onto my scarred, deformed left knee, the one that’s been painfully operating just fine, thank you, since May 1976, when the ACL snapped never to be repaired. Yep, that’s right, 29 years worth of loose abuse, and still plugging. I can only imagine the pain that would be emanating from that joint was I not lining it up properly with the brace to limit the bone-on-bone grind. It’s a sound you hope you never hear, and one I’ve learned to live with for nearly three decades.

So I guess that’s the good news: the brace seems to be working, and the knee’s feeling better than it has during Octobers of the recent past. Now it’s my quads, groins, hamstrings and lower back that are killing me as I sit here pecking at this noisy keyboard, trying to pen a column with fatigued creativity.

Oh, I’ll be back out there tomorrow, sleep-deprived, pushing my body to its reduced limits. You can bet on that. You only get six weeks to hunt birds, so you can’t step into it gently. No sir, it’s full speed ahead. But I am for the first time cognizant that the day will come when even stubborn willpower will not be enough to outweigh the pains of aching wheels.

I suppose the primary problem is that springers were created to slither through, burrow under and bound over the most unforgiving cover, which cannot be said for aging bipeds, particularly those who’ve abused their bodies between the lines. Sure, it was great upending a second baseman with a take-out slide or lowering your shoulder to punish a tackler or drop a punishing runner, but there’s a price to pay for the nicks incurred from such violent behavior, and now it’s time to pay the bill. At least that’s how I look at it. No denial, no regrets. It is what it is.

Perhaps, for the first time in my life I’ll have to give in and change my style. You know, slow it down a bit, maybe even purchase a pointer and make the transition to a gentleman hunter during my gray years. But how can I do that with a year-old springer bitch that has seven or eight good years ahead of her? It just wouldn’t be fair, would it? And besides, it’s that steady, sometimes furious chase behind a flush-and-retrieve dynamo that pushes my buttons and calls me to the covert daily. The chase is more challenging, and so are the wing shots.

But, still, I may be approaching a familiar crossroads. What I’m going through today brings me back some 30 years to my diamond days. I can vividly recall stopping at a local watering hole on my way home from a hardball game back then and bumping into old high school teammates or foes in their finest tease mode. They were slo-pitch heroes, and they’d have a half-hour head start on me sitting at the bar. The ribbing would begin soon after I walked through the door and ordered a beverage.

“Hey Bags, when you gonna give up baseball and play a man’s game,” they’d bellow. But the playful banter didn’t bother me. “It won’t be long,” I’d reply. “As soon as my legs can’t handle the big diamond.”

I was a man of my word. Sporting a noticeable limp, I moved to the smaller diamond with the bigger ball at around 30 and proceeded to delay adulthood another 10 years. To be sure, it was a different game — slower, more mistakes — but there were still four bases, a mound and a bench, and the dugout camaraderie was worth the commitment. Couldn’t give it up, especially when I discovered the semi-fast alternative. Fastballs, changeups, knucklers, risers — as close as you could get to the real thing.

Now, with that activity 12 years in my rearview, all that’s left for me is the exhilarating flush-and-retrieve game. The adrenaline flows as you challenge yourself to follow a better animal than you on a chase through thorn-laced cover — stumbling over hummocks, pulling your feet through snaring swamp grass, and bulling through bittersweet vines on the way to a flush. Then, when you hear the flush, you step toward the sound, locate the fleeing bird, point, swing and fire to drop it from the sky.

Maybe as my legs grow older, my eyes weaker, my back and shoulders stiffer, the success rate will diminish. Perhaps my endurance will diminish, shortening the typical hunt. But somehow I don’t believe those humbling issues could ruin a good day afield.

Like my hunting and softball buddy, Cooker, told the orthopedic surgeon who warned me to to give up softball or it would cut my bird-hunting short: “You don’t know Bags.”

He had a chuckle in his throat.

We’ll see.

Wingshooting Garb

The joy of bird hunting —free-wheeling through dense, wet, thorny cover behind an enthusiastic dog or dogs — is often preceded by the drudgery of preparation, something no hunter looks forward to. But a man is only good as his gear, which, unfortunately, requires consistent maintenance.

Boots and bibs need regular cleaning and dressing, shotguns beg for TLC following every hunt — particularly those on wet, low-pressure days — and there are always accessories like shooting glasses, whistles, gloves and cleaning rods that must be dealt with.

For me, procrastination begins and ends with the messy waterproofing of boots and bibs. Both chores call for elbow grease, messy hands and an electric hairdryer, which tends to come away from the workbench as sticky as your hands. Of course, because you’re dealing with waterproofing, soap and water won’t remove it. So you must have a can of paint thinner or turpentine nearby if you don’t want to clean every door handle you touch on the way to the shelf where you store it.

My clothing of choice is Filson Tin Cloth Hunting Bibs ($200) and 16-inch uninsulated L.L. Bean Hunting Boots ($100) — you know, the ones with leather tops and rubber bottoms. I like the bibs because they eliminate the discomfort of untucked shirts and slipping pants, which open the door for debris down your pants or bull briars across the bare small of your back. As for the boots, well, I suppose I could eliminate the waterproofing if I went to high rubber boots, but the cheap ones don’t offer the support required by an old warhorse of many ankle sprains and the $350 ones are just too expensive. Plus, I don’t think the expensive rubber field boots would stand up to the cover I frequent, not with hidden, rusted barbed-wire snare traps buried deep.

As for my Filson bibs, no one could convince me there’s anything better for my style of  hunting; cheaper and less labor-intensive, yes, but not better. I wish they’d make a pair with a game bag on the back, but a hunting coat or vest takes care of that problem.

As for the claim that Tin Cloth bibs are virtually indestructible and offer many years of hunting pleasure, well, if you don’t care for them and pound heavy cover aggressively, you’re lucky to get two seasons out of them. That’s 12 weeks, which may sound crazy, but is true, at least for me. The secret is to apply Filson’s Original Oil Finish Wax ($8.25 for 3.75 ounces) whenever the bibs start to show wear and creases. Those worn areas soon become tears if left untreated and, over time, even despite multiple treatments. But I have found that I can get three full seasons of aggressive hunting out of a pair of Filson bibs, then retire them, tattered and torn, for the less aggressive use, such as woodland walks, yard work and firewood chores.

Over the years, I have perfected a method of waxing my bibs and waterproofing my boots on the workbench in my shed. The process takes about an hour and a half, then an hour or two in front of the woodstove. What you need is a work area with an electrical outlet, rags, a coarse bristled brush, a hairdryer, and potentially Saddle Soap for extremely dirty boots. The boots and bibs must be totally dry before the procedure can begin.

I usually start with the boots, removing the laces and aggressively brushing all dirt and debris from the surface. Then I place them in front of the woodstove while I deal with the bibs, which also need a good brushing before applying the wax.

With the boots still soaking up the heat in front of the woodstove, I place one leg of the bibs on my bench and insert a 10-inch board up the leg to the crotch, then zip the leg down as far as possible and flatten out any creases so that I’m working with a flat surface. Then I scoop a gob of wax, a little denser than cold bacon fat, from the container and liberally apply it to the leg, leaving thick streaks of it here and there from thigh to ankle. You then hold the cotton rag in one hand, the hairdryer in the other, and blow hot air on the leg to melt and apply it evenly. Repeat the process on the other side of the leg, then on both sides of the other leg and into the crotch before returning to the woodstove, placing the freshly treated bibs on a clothes rack in front of the stove, and grabbing the warmed boots. Now the heat of the stove will enhance the wax-penetration process on the bibs while you treat your boots, creating more time for hunting. Plus, I’ve learned to own two pairs of boots. That way you have a pair ready when you’re done applying the dressing to the boots you’re working on. And when you go hunting, you just leave the freshly waterproofed pair in front of the stove to complete the waterproofing process.

I’ve found that the hairdryer is also useful for applying whatever waterproofing product you prefer — Snoseal or Filson Original Boot Oil Finish are my favorites, but I have also used Mink Oil and other products, and they all seem to do the job. The hairdryer melts any of the pasty substance that settles in the eyeholes and liquefies it for an easier, more uniform application.

You never look forward to such chores, and they’re never fun, but the hunting experience is always improved by foot-ware and clothing that can stand up to the most challenging conditions. Not only that but, if you take care of your hunting clothing, it lasts longer, wears better, and costs less over the long haul.

Unlikely Guests

I was returning home from running the dogs when, as I climbed the gentle slope to my home, I spotted activity along the eastern perimeter of my yard, several vehicles, people milling about. Then, as I got closer, it was clear to me who they were. It was a salmon-stocking crew from the Connecticut River Coordinator’s office in Sunderland, solid individuals chasing the honorable dream of restoring Atlantic salmon to the Connecticut River valley.

What an ironic twist of fate. Of all places in our expansive valley to set up shop, they had chosen the yard of a man many of them consider Public Enemy No. 1 of their program. Myself, I was humored by the development, determined to hospitably greet my guests once I kenneled the dogs, and that’s exactly what I did on a bright, pleasant, cheerful spring morning.

As I walked across my front yard toward the crew, two women were standing on the bed of a khaki-colored U.S. Fish & Wildlife truck, transferring tiny salmon fry from what was probably a 500-gallon circular tank into rectangular, five-gallon white pails, which were being walked to the banks of Hinsdale Brook for stocking. I reached the crowd, met eyes with a tall, light-curly-haired, approachable man wearing dark glasses and exchanged brief pleasantries before asking a simple question.

“Is it possible that Jan Rowan is among you?”

“Yes she is. That’s her standing right there on the truck.”

I moved close enough to lean on the truck, looked the Connecticut River Coordinator herself square in her shade-covered eyes and said, “I thought I’d come out to introduce myself. Do you know who I am?

“Yep, I do. I see your picture in the newspaper.”

So there we stood, political adversaries of sorts, but reasonable souls with nothing personal between us, meeting face to face for the first time. It was beautiful. Lo and behold, not only did I have the head honcho of the Connecticut River Atlantic Salmon Restoration Program on my turf, but she was accompanied by none other than MassWildlife Anadromous Fish Project Leader Caleb Slater, the tall, pleasant man I had first spoken to. With them was a dedicated mixed-gender crew that probably curses me in their sleep for my unpopular opinion that their program is doomed to failure through no fault of their own. They know the numbers support my position but resent me nonetheless for making it public. But I’m not a promoter, I’m a newsman, and however you want to spin it, the news about salmon restoration in New England is not good. After more than four decades of stocking immature, hatchery-born, Connecticut River-strain salmon progeny into tributaries up and down the valley like the one that flows through my back yard, all they have to show is a hundred or two annual returns, certainly nothing to write home about.

It’s not the story I want to report now, or wanted to tell nearly 30 years ago, when I began tracking anadromous-fish-migration numbers for print. No, to be honest, I’d much rather sing praise of a success story akin to the turkey and bear and deer and striped-bass restorations we’re so familiar with. But those success stories bear absolutely no resemblance to this salmon-restoration effort, and if I’m worth my salt as a reporter, that’s what has to be written. I have no choice. It comes down to simple credibility, a newsman’s lifeblood. Without it I’m dead.

So, it was nice to meet the shepherds of our salmon program, to strike up a friendly conversation about a subject we cannot, for professional reasons, agree on. But it’s not personal. I hope they understand that.

Rooted

Published: Thursday, May 07, 2009

The Japanese maples out front are brilliant red, unintentionally hiding blissful cardinals singing their happy springtime tunes as moist saucer-magnolia petals fall softly to the lawn. Is there a better green than that of May? I think not, so vibrant and pure.

As I watch spring unfold from my peaceful study’s desk, perhaps I should rejoice. It’s a time when my column fills itself like a toilet, lots happening, news flying at me in many forms from all directions, turkeys gobbling within earshot. The stocking trucks are rolling as dam lifts and ladders transport anadromous fish up our Connecticut Valley to spawn. Soon our deer-harvest numbers will be out, another easy column delivered straight to my Inbox like Meals on Wheels. How convenient. But that’s not what satisfies me. I would much rather create than copy, find it far more challenging, fulfilling. But I guess that’s just me, certainly no mainstreamer in this or any game I’ve ever played, idiosyncratic to a fault, no fan of convention, the norm.

So here I sit, a week-and-a-half into the turkey season and I, a local outdoor columnist, haven’t once been out. It’s not that I don’t want to. I love turkey hunting. Find it invigorating, captivating. Never a bad day. But I’m no longer willing to make the physical sacrifice of waking early and dragging my butt to work at night. The fatigue piles up like 50-pound bags on a pallet, just isn’t worth it to me. And when you think of it, who else matters? The simple answer is no one. I have nothing to prove, am comfortable in my own skin, and view myself no less a man when failing to fill a hunting tag.

Yeah, I know the obvious question: Why must I wake before light to hunt turkeys? Can’t you go out later, hunt the last few instead of the first few hours? Well, it may be difficult to comprehend but that’s not turkey hunting to me. I have to be there before the birds sing. If not, it’s a waste. What else can I say? The woods at daybreak and 9 a.m. are radically different. If you’ve been there, you know what I mean. I want daybreak. Nothing else. It sets the tone.

Although I haven’t hunted, it’s not like I’ve been sitting idly. Quite the contrary. I’ve been keeping up with chores around home and doing what I usually do in my spare time: studying old roads and maps; researching genealogies, town histories, diaries; firing off e-mails; working the phones; riding the backwoods with a venerable, retired county engineer to pick his fertile brain and learn the fading county roads and paths, the town boundaries altered by annexation. Just Tuesday I had in my hand a church record book from 1771-1821, recorded in Rev. Rufus Wells’ handwriting. In a remarkable state of preservation, the hard covers wore a supple leather skin undoubtedly cured at my fifth great-grandfather’s 18th century Canterbury tannery. This priceless source is securely held in a private home, so it was quite a treat to view it; totally cool, fascinating in my little world.

It’s one thing to know the wildlife and fish in our woods and waters, another altogether to understand the human settlement and abandonment patterns of the landscapes these creatures today inhabit. My goal is to make connections, ones most hunters have no desire to learn. But that’s them. I’m me. I have no problem with their perspective and see no reason why they should question mine.

Maybe I traipse around to the beat of a different fiddler, one made of native wood by native hands; a yard-sale clunker to some, to me, a sweet Stradivarius.

The way I see it, it’s important to know who you are and where you’re from. Isn’t that where it all starts and ends?

Falltown Gore

I was poking around East Colrain last week, something I’ve done quite a bit lately, there and in Heath, another upland jewel in our western hills. Along the way, I bumped into a man I first met when we were both Frontier Regional schoolboys. He happened to abut the parcel I was exploring and was out tidying-up his lawn and tinkering with his lawnmower on an refreshing spring afternoon, around 4.

The snow had finally melted enough for a comfortable, in places soggy, walk through the crackly woods, which I had already completed when I popped into my old schoolmate’s back yard and stopped to chat about this and that, beginning with the long-overdue arrival of spring in the hills behind my home. He too was happy to breathe fresh, warm spring air, which undoubtedly had lured him out for afternoon chores, but he was quick to point out that it was still winter in the gorge below, the one known to natives as Bernardston Gore, before that Falltown Gore, a natural obstruction that created hardships for pioneer on both sides.

“I drove through Green River Road this morning and it’s still winter down there, deep snow and ice on the steep banks near where the road washed out,” he said. “Take a ride if you don’t believe me. There’s still a ways to go down there.”

Knowing the unforgiving terrain in that deep ravine, I didn’t doubt him but had no interest in revisiting winter. I had my fill weeks ago, to be perfectly honest. But it did get me thinking about that “gore,” the one our earliest colonial settlers, some of them ancestors living just west of the Green River, found to be quite an obstacle in their daily travels, particularly Sunday treks of an ecclesiastical nature.

Going back to the original early 18th century land grants of Boston Townships 1 and 2, which have become northwestern Franklin County, a chunk of what is today Colrain along the western bank of the Green River belonged to Bernardston (Falltown), forcing residents to take an arduous, 14-mile weekly trip to church and back. The route meandered south through parts of the current Shelburne and Greenfield, then looped back north and east to Bernardston, presumably crossing the Green River near the Pumping Station ford. That trip became unnecessary once East Colrain built its own meeting house on Chandler Hill, but before Bernardston Gore inhabitants could attend the Colrain church, the colonial government in Boston had to annex it to Colrain, and, like any bureaucratic venture, it didn’t happen overnight.

Having fished that section of the Green many times over the years, even way before I moved into “the neighborhood,” I am familiar with the steep, picturesque Falltown Gore and can sympathize with early inhabitants whose 1771 petition to Gov. Thomas Hutchinson I recently reviewed. The petitioners with names like Workman, Clark, Henry, and Lukas ask the governor to approve setting off their section of Bernardston to Colrain due to hardship in travel to and from church services. They cited difficulty crossing Green River when swollen, and the impossibility of building a road through the gorge as the main reasons for their request. Before 1780, the request was granted and Bernardston Gore became an extension of East Colrain. Today, trout fishing, swimming and deer hunting are the primary activities there. An east-west road through there has never been attempted and never will be. You just don’t cross geographic divides like Bernardston Gore. You follow them through or go around.

What Eats Fawns?

Head to the barber shop, newsstand or corner greasy-spoon and you’re bound to hear discussion about coyotes — a hybrid wild canine that appeared on the local scene some 40 years ago, when loggers, hunters and farmers occasionally encountered what was then referred to as “wild dogs,” believing German shepherd-mix strays had adapted to the wild and were living on the fringe of civilization.

When it later became apparent that we were dealing with a new species, not a domestic mongrel gone wild, the beasts were called “coy dogs,” the prevailing wisdom speculating a midsized wild canine of coyote/domestic-dog mix. Then, as the population exploded and it became clear that these “coy dogs” were, indeed, a new wild canine species unique to the Northeastern, biologists called them Eastern coyotes, larger versions of the the Western coyote. Why these animals were larger than their cousins was puzzling, but some scientists believed we may be dealing with a Great Lakes cross between the Eastern timber, or gray, wolf and the Western coyote. The logic was that the gray wolf had been driven west by early New England colonists, the Western coyotes were driven east by Western settlers, and the two species collided and bred in the desolate Great Lakes region. The new species first appeared around the Great Lakes, migrated into New York and Vermont by the mid-20th century, and showed up here slightly later. Eastern coyotes are found statewide today, inhabiting even metropolitan areas, where they are a common sight along the highway and at the rubbish bin.

Our coyotes are known killers of house cats, livestock and fowl, and are believed to have a negative impact on our deer population despite a lack of scientific evidence. Still, with or without hard evidence, if you want to get a good lively coffee-shop or tavern discussion going, suggest that coyotes are not killing deer and brace for the argument.

During my decades-long keeping of this space, no subject has attracted more attention than the coyote/deer relationship. “Why don’t you write about coyotes killing deer?” the readers implore. The answer is that it’s difficult to assess an issue without facts on which to base a conclusion. Simply stated, despite what hunters tell you, the fact that they routinely spot coyote tracks following deer does not prove that coyotes are doing great damage to our deer herd. What you need to find is deer carcasses and blood and body parts, and the fact is that few woodsmen — including the most outspoken coyote haters — seem to be finding much evidence.

“Surprisingly, not much real research (on coyote predation of deer) has been conducted in the Northeast,” reported United States Fish & Wildlife biologist and former MassWildlife deer project leader John McDonald. “Some work was done in New Brunswick in the late 1990s, but nothing really in the New England states.”

Even the state’s deer-radio-collaring project has provided no useful information regarding the issue. That statewide initiative has proven that coyotes eat deer, not that they kill the deer they eat.

“I don’t know that any of the radio-collared deer that were obviously fed on by coyotes could be said to have been killed by coyotes,” McDonald wrote in an e-mail. “I know that a couple that died had been dead too long by the time we got to them to determine what killed them.”

If coyotes are only scavenging weak, injured or road-killed deer, then who could have a problem with that? The answer is nobody. But there’s also the contention that coyotes are taking their share of newborn spring fawns, which is always a possibility, and there’s no data available to dispute that claim. In fact, a recent fawn-survival study conducted in Pennsylvania reported that coyotes did indeed kill fawns, as did black bears. “However, deer densities there are much higher than we have here,” wrote McDonald, who went on to address the bear issue.

“When I led the (Massachusettts) bear-research program, we looked at hundreds of scats over several years and only found fawn remains in one that I can recall,” he wrote. “For bears, predation on deer fawns can be opportunistic, i.e., if a bear runs into a fawn it can kill, it will. But for them to learn how to hunt them and be regular predators, there has to be a lot of fawns around. Then it would be worthwhile and possible for the bear to learn how to do it.”

Hmmmm? A new twist, huh? Now we’re bringing bears into the equation. Like coyotes, bears are a relatively new phenomenon to this state. They are indigenous but had been scarce until the past two decades; similar to the gray wolf, which was wiped out by colonial bounty hunters and has now been replaced in the predatory chain by the “brush wolf ” or Eastern coyote.

Can there be any doubt that as the bear density increases and spring forage is at a minimum, they will or already have learned to hunt newborn fawns. It makes sense. So does coyote predation. But it also seems unlikely either predator will make too dramatic a dent in the expanding deer population. Nature has a way of figuring out the right formula.

Save the Brookies

May 2006

An alarming news release arrived in my Inbox. The headline read: “New Data Shows Brook Trout Imperiled Throughout Entire Eastern Range: Massachusetts Brook Trout Populations Threatened by Dams and Roads.”

Troubling.

We’re not talking here about the stocked hatchery brookies anglers have been catching in small streams this spring. No. We’re talking about the native “squaretails” we all grew up with; those steel-blue, brilliantly spotted freshwater fish that, as fingerlings, breaded lightly with corn flour, are a cast-iron delight dating back to colonial times. A salmonid of the char family, Eastern brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) are regarded by many as North America’s most beautiful freshwater fish. Count me among them.

I grew up catching native squaretails, big and small, in local waters I would never identify in print; and although I haven’t fished those waters in a generation, I believe they’re still there, beautiful and tasty as ever. However, that assumption may not be accurate given recent findings by Trout Unlimited and a coalition of state and federal agencies that collaborated on the recent report, “Eastern Brook Trout: Status and Threats.” Researchers found that “brook trout survive in less than half of their original range in Massachusetts.”

“Brook trout are the canary in the coal mine when it comes to water quality,” said Gary Berti, Trout Unlimited’s Eastern brook brout campaign coordinator. “The presence of brook trout in a watershed indicates that water quality is excellent. Declining brook trout populations can provide an early warning that the health of an entire stream, lake or river is at risk.”

The brookie havens I know well are probably still producing the gorgeous native fish, albeit fewer than during my boyhood days when I vividly recall watching trophy brookies spawn each fall at a secluded old mill site in the woods. I assume that they’re still there because the site is located within the remaining “few patches of relatively strong Massachusetts brook trout habitat” pinpointed in the press release. That region includes the Berkshire and Taconic mountains, portions of the Hoosic, Deerfield and Westfield watersheds, and several Connecticut River tributaries. Otherwise, according to the release, brook trout have been eliminated from seven percent of their historical Massachusetts habitat and are greatly reduced in another 28 percent of habitat that once supported them.

“While these results are sobering, we are already pursuing many opportunities for conservation of remaining high-quality habitat as well as restoration of impaired streams,” said MassWildlife aquatic biologist Todd Richards. “Our collective challenge is to protect the best remaining habitat and restore the rest.”

While there is no denying the looming threat, the outlook is far from hopeless, according to Warren Winders, brook trout coordinator for TU’s Massachusetts Council.

“Brookies are quick to respond to habitat improvements,” he explained.  “We have already seen the results of our work with state and federal partners on Quashnet River and Red Brook. By scaling up these programs throughout the state and region, we will see wild brook trout returning to our streams.  And that’s great news for all of us who love to fish locally with our families and friends.”

Winders’ assessment represents the first stage of the Eastern Brook Trout Joint Venture’s collaborative efforts to restore habitat. The venture was initiated in 2002 as a pilot program of the National Fish Habitat Initiative. Participants include fish and wildlife agencies from 17 states, federal partners, conservation organizations and academic institutions. The results of this assessment will be used to develop state-by-state strategies for brook trout conservation and recovery.

The full report, as well as state-specific data and maps, is available at www.brookie.org. Print it out, chew on it a while and see if you get the same rotten taste I did.

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