The joy of bird hunting —free-wheeling through dense, wet, thorny cover behind an enthusiastic dog or dogs — is often preceded by the drudgery of preparation, something no hunter looks forward to. But a man is only good as his gear, which, unfortunately, requires consistent maintenance.

Boots and bibs need regular cleaning and dressing, shotguns beg for TLC following every hunt — particularly those on wet, low-pressure days — and there are always accessories like shooting glasses, whistles, gloves and cleaning rods that must be dealt with.

For me, procrastination begins and ends with the messy waterproofing of boots and bibs. Both chores call for elbow grease, messy hands and an electric hairdryer, which tends to come away from the workbench as sticky as your hands. Of course, because you’re dealing with waterproofing, soap and water won’t remove it. So you must have a can of paint thinner or turpentine nearby if you don’t want to clean every door handle you touch on the way to the shelf where you store it.

My clothing of choice is Filson Tin Cloth Hunting Bibs ($200) and 16-inch uninsulated L.L. Bean Hunting Boots ($100) — you know, the ones with leather tops and rubber bottoms. I like the bibs because they eliminate the discomfort of untucked shirts and slipping pants, which open the door for debris down your pants or bull briars across the bare small of your back. As for the boots, well, I suppose I could eliminate the waterproofing if I went to high rubber boots, but the cheap ones don’t offer the support required by an old warhorse of many ankle sprains and the $350 ones are just too expensive. Plus, I don’t think the expensive rubber field boots would stand up to the cover I frequent, not with hidden, rusted barbed-wire snare traps buried deep.

As for my Filson bibs, no one could convince me there’s anything better for my style of  hunting; cheaper and less labor-intensive, yes, but not better. I wish they’d make a pair with a game bag on the back, but a hunting coat or vest takes care of that problem.

As for the claim that Tin Cloth bibs are virtually indestructible and offer many years of hunting pleasure, well, if you don’t care for them and pound heavy cover aggressively, you’re lucky to get two seasons out of them. That’s 12 weeks, which may sound crazy, but is true, at least for me. The secret is to apply Filson’s Original Oil Finish Wax ($8.25 for 3.75 ounces) whenever the bibs start to show wear and creases. Those worn areas soon become tears if left untreated and, over time, even despite multiple treatments. But I have found that I can get three full seasons of aggressive hunting out of a pair of Filson bibs, then retire them, tattered and torn, for the less aggressive use, such as woodland walks, yard work and firewood chores.

Over the years, I have perfected a method of waxing my bibs and waterproofing my boots on the workbench in my shed. The process takes about an hour and a half, then an hour or two in front of the woodstove. What you need is a work area with an electrical outlet, rags, a coarse bristled brush, a hairdryer, and potentially Saddle Soap for extremely dirty boots. The boots and bibs must be totally dry before the procedure can begin.

I usually start with the boots, removing the laces and aggressively brushing all dirt and debris from the surface. Then I place them in front of the woodstove while I deal with the bibs, which also need a good brushing before applying the wax.

With the boots still soaking up the heat in front of the woodstove, I place one leg of the bibs on my bench and insert a 10-inch board up the leg to the crotch, then zip the leg down as far as possible and flatten out any creases so that I’m working with a flat surface. Then I scoop a gob of wax, a little denser than cold bacon fat, from the container and liberally apply it to the leg, leaving thick streaks of it here and there from thigh to ankle. You then hold the cotton rag in one hand, the hairdryer in the other, and blow hot air on the leg to melt and apply it evenly. Repeat the process on the other side of the leg, then on both sides of the other leg and into the crotch before returning to the woodstove, placing the freshly treated bibs on a clothes rack in front of the stove, and grabbing the warmed boots. Now the heat of the stove will enhance the wax-penetration process on the bibs while you treat your boots, creating more time for hunting. Plus, I’ve learned to own two pairs of boots. That way you have a pair ready when you’re done applying the dressing to the boots you’re working on. And when you go hunting, you just leave the freshly waterproofed pair in front of the stove to complete the waterproofing process.

I’ve found that the hairdryer is also useful for applying whatever waterproofing product you prefer — Snoseal or Filson Original Boot Oil Finish are my favorites, but I have also used Mink Oil and other products, and they all seem to do the job. The hairdryer melts any of the pasty substance that settles in the eyeholes and liquefies it for an easier, more uniform application.

You never look forward to such chores, and they’re never fun, but the hunting experience is always improved by foot-ware and clothing that can stand up to the most challenging conditions. Not only that but, if you take care of your hunting clothing, it lasts longer, wears better, and costs less over the long haul.