Why Now?

Wispy, aromatic vapor wafts like a genie from the coffee cup to my left as I sit once again wondering where this hard walnut chair softened by a suede cushion will take me.

The faint scent of coffee, 13 bucks a pound, fills my nostrils and temporarily wanders me off to Japan, where those runaway nuclear reactors continue to belch poison gas skyward for all to inhale, regardless of what the fancy-pants sources want you to believe. It gets me thinking about the terrible news, just today or the day before, about Vermont Yankee receiving a 20-year extension to churn power, danger looming like a Sword of Damocles, Chernobyl waiting to happen. But why focus on the foreboding? What good does it do? Better to skewer Charlie Sheen or Liz Taylor or Lil Wayne or Paris Hilton, or praise some unfortunate soul who saved her sister and lost her leg. Anything to escape reality … maybe even the extinct Eastern cougar, Pan of our north woods, a satanic beast some swear to have seen where it doesn’t exist.

Similar to the great Atlantic salmon myth — the one that assures us they were once here in great numbers and are coming back — press-release copycats took that United States Fish & Wildlife Service cougar-extinction story hook, line and sinker and ran with it two or three weeks ago. The news was everywhere, went nationwide, probably into Canada. Extra, extra! Read all about it: Eastern cougars extinct. At least 10 people emailed me the MSNBC link alone, like, “Hey, idiot, what do you say now?”

Well, my response is wait a second. Think about the people delivering this news on TV and radio, in the morning paper. Had they ever before read about the subject, talked to credible sources who say they’ve seen the long-tailed, tawny demons, examined the historical context, looked into the emergence of a new wild canine — Eastern coyote — which literally popped up out of nowhere in our hills some 50 years ago? Did they query the Eastern Cougar Foundation for its reaction? No sir. That’s work. These media megaphones of misinformation just accept what the government agencies tell them, report it verbatim, accept it as fact and read it as gospel from their sacred media pulpits. The story is believed by most, just like they believe dispersants used during the Gulf oil disaster pose absolutely no long-range dangers to the ecosystem, and that the Exxon Valdez debacle is over and done with, coastline again pristine. Hey, if the government press release says it, it must be so. That’s the tired rationale, one that’s seldom safe when evaluating “news.”

I have in this space over the years reported on scores of local cougar sightings by credible sources. And while I don’t claim to be an expert, concede that wildlife biologists paid by the state and federal government know much more than me, and admit that their theories about wayward Western cougars or released exotic pets passing through could have merit, I refuse to rule anything out. I find it curious that now, with cougar-sighting frequency on the rise, the government has decided to change its classification from endangered to extinct. Hey, it may be so. An Eastern Cougar Foundation spokesperson who has investigated hundreds, if not thousands, of eastern U.S. sightings over the past two decades admitted two or three years ago that there probably were no “pure” Eastern cougars left. Instead, she said, we are probably dealing with young, displaced Western cats or hybrids — perhaps a mix of Florida panther and Eastern cougar, or Eastern and Western cougars, or Eastern and Western and exotic jungle cats. Yes, the possibilities are many, and potentially real. But maybe, just maybe, Eastern cougars, pure or otherwise, are not extinct. So why not leave the avenues of discovery open until we know for sure?

A stiff, annoying thorn has been standing upright in my boot’s heel since the announcement. I picked it up off the Quabbin forest floor, where less than a generation ago a professional wildlife tracker found and reported a suspicious beaver-kill site that included several fresh scat samples that were collected and sent off for analysis to two professional laboratories. The labs’ findings were troubling indeed for anyone trying to support Eastern cougar extinction. Why? Because both identified the DNA as Eastern cougar. That tells us there was at least one of these now-extinct cats prowling our nearby woods then, so how to reconcile that with this latest news? It appears to make no sense. And how about the Eastern cougar reported to be our last that was pictured in the recent online press release with the Maine man who killed it in the 1930s? Wasn’t that cougar the offspring of two before it, and weren’t its parents the product of four before them? Seems like simple mathematics to me. Not to them, I guess.

This latest re-classification by wildlife specialists seems to be following the same path as the Florida panther, which was said to be extinct in response to many sightings in the 1970s and 1980s. Soon after this “official word” came down, lo and behold, it was discovered that Florida panthers were alive and well, in fact making an extraordinary comeback. Today this big cat is not uncommon in the Sunshine State and southern Georgia. Wouldn’t you think the authorities would be wary of repeating their error so soon? Apparently not. But there could be a hidden agenda. With sightings of Northeastern cougars increasing in recent years, maybe the government wanted to sidestep potential red-tape headaches related to logging and development. Endangered species are no friends to such commercial pursuits, a bane for landowners and Realtors alike, who hate delays.

All I can say is that maybe this extinction verdict is valid. Perhaps the Eastern cougar is gone for good. But I’ll reserve judgment for now. Call me conservative if you will — few do! — but I would rather be remembered as a cautious observer and hardened skeptic than just another clueless foot soldier, who parrots widely circulated press releases and trumpets their message as breaking news.

Hilltown Dissent

What for a man to do? It’s mid March, cabin fever fading, that of spring ascending like sweet sap from deep-seated roots, yet winter still, snow too deep to drive or even park off-road, comfortable walking for snowshoers and snowmobile-trail hikers only. Soon, annoying mud will appear. But I guess we all have our ways of getting through it and staying content.

Me, well, I’m on my usual late-winter reading spree. You never know where these indoor diversions can lead, but for me usually to history, literature, politics or all of the above, most often the latter. Must be in my blood or core. Yes, idle time can be a treble-hook that snags and drags you through some wild, thought-provoking places, swallowing you to your chin in exploratory quicksand before you can escape. This winter, I’ve kept busy reading Hamsun and Didion and McPhee, a little Updike, some Kropotkin, Tolstoy and Goldman, then Orwell, of course. Seems I always come back to Orwell, that visionary British “New Journalist,” cutting edge.

Before someone suggests involuntary 30-day observation at the local loony bin, let me assure you I also read mainstream stuff, such as the biographies of Mantle, Koufax and Stengel. Could I get anymore mainstream than that? American heroes, no less. So, see, no need to worry. I still have both oars in the water. But then came the kicker: a biography of rebel American (or is it un-American) journalist I.F. Stone, to whose bi-weekly newsletter I was introduced as a boy by a man living in a radical little village tucked into southwestern Franklin County’s hills. Must be something in the water up there, because that pretty little slice of upland paradise had similar political leanings during Daniel Shays’ day.

I remember way back when being swept away by Izzy Stone’s courage to report truth when others in the media ignored it, printing instead government lies as unchallenged gospel. So, when I found Myra MacPherson’s 2006 biography cheap, in paperback from discount Daedalus Books, I snapped it up and couldn’t put it down. In fact, the book so captivated me that I told a couple of colleagues it should be required reading for all J-schools. We then revisited the subject after deadline and wandered to a place called Poplar Hill, where a “leftist” publisher once resided. As I dredged for memories of the man and tried to describe his literary journal, I realized that, despite having read his wife’s autobiography nearly 20 years ago, I knew little about the quarterly publication. So off I went … way off the beaten path, in fact, on a little discovery mission.

Cursory investigation (Isn’t Google great?) brought me to familiar names like Henry Miller, Anais Nin and D.H. Lawrence, all naughty artists who were banned in Boston and everywhere else in the country during the Depression era. Not surprisingly, all of their bylines appeared in the late Poplar Hill editor’s short-lived, later reincarnated journal, Lawrence’s stuff appearing posthumously in the late 1930’s when our publisher was living in Woodstock, N.Y. Our man and the mostly American authors and poets only he dared to publish were called “bohemian” and “expatriate,” both pejorative among the Windsor-knot, meetinghouse gang. No wonder that fiery little man with the trademark Navy-blue beret so intrigued me as a bright-eyed, impressionable teen observing him, his retinue and their philosophical shtick from afar. I remember the man as spirited, bright and articulate, talking, maybe even arguing about pacifism or protest or government lies when they were fashionabe subjects.

Over the years since, I have often viewed from faraway his classic, Federal, New England home — multi-paned rooftop cupola gleaming in the morning sun — while seated against a massive red pine, shotgun across my lap, hunting deer or turkeys. Sitting quietly there, my mind wanders back to my adolescence, when students and professors and gadflies like Stone and that irascible Whately publisher were peacefully protesting in the streets, raising a ruckus at town meetings or wherever they pleased.

That was long ago. The good old days to some, me included. I do not believe I will experience another American political climate like it. Preventative measures are now in place, Big Brother watching from traffic lights, rooflines and stylish street lamps.

Where are Izzy Stone and Jimmy Cooney when we need them? That’s the question I find myself asking these days, with our Gulf ecosystem poisoned as radiation hemorrhages into the Far Eastern sea and sky? Thankfully, I was around to meet these men before dissent was squashed and thought-police reigned.

Those men from my past taught me that “alternative” is not always undesirable, no matter what Bill O’Reilly, Glenn Beck and the WEEI morning boys would have you believe.

March Roars

The roars of March, brought by our first hard rains in months, emanated from my backyard early this week — one a constant, soothing roar, the other sudden, violent and threatening, like a bear trying to chase off Old Man Winter; one welcoming spring, the other expelling winter.

The continuous roar was the brook that has lain dormant since December, always flowing gently under ice and two feet of insulating snow which prevented it from freezing. Even during frigid days and sub-zero nights, never once did the steady flow stop as it did last snow-starved winter. I remember marveling several times this year at the stream’s determined flow through deep, sporadic openings, riffles visible, rattle clear, like dogged passion that could not be killed or restrained. By Monday afternoon, the stream had swelled, turned brown and carved open a continuous, central, snake-like channel sluicing through the icy constriction. I knew the surface would soon be consumed and washed away in big, dangerous chunks, widening the stream out to its banks. And sure enough, upon returning from work at midnight, I could hear that first, unmistakable, cold, dark purr of March, the sound of spring purging winter with a calming fury. Again, like untamed passion, it’s wise to stand back and observe from above, afar. Even a experienced whitewater man riding the torrent for the joy of it could be decapitated by an overhanging branch or vine, maybe dumped, washed away and snagged in a morbid tangle among hidden, undercut roots and debris. Only fools take lightly nature’s overwhelming power.

The quick, thunderous, bear’s roar came from a closer source; it was a slate-roof avalanche tobogganing the final, stubborn pile of shaded snow off the north woodshed ell and crashing it into the wall of a stubby kitchen wart across the slim, square alcove. I jumped up to see if there was damage. No. Everything fine. The resulting snow pile stood high above the windows at its peak, had filled the space with chunky sheets of dense, icy snow that reached all the way up to the opposite wall’s windowsill. Any higher and it would have blasted out the glass and ruined my day. Had a rugged, beefy man been standing in its way, he would have been chopped in half; like the raging stream, long-held snow shooting off a slate roof is nothing to fool with.

It’s funny, the more I read and heard about collapsing roofs this winter, the more I worried about that ominous pile of snow deposited onto the woodshed roof from the one above. It was piled so high and heavy atop the ridge and against the house that it had filled the eight- to 10-foot gap between the perpendicular roofs and I could step from one to the other. When a friend recently told me he was raking in 100 bucks an hour removing snow from central and eastern Massachusetts roofs, I uttered a wry chuckle and informed him that, although I understood his clients’ concerns, I had chosen another route. The way I looked at it, my old buildings have survived worse winters over parts of four centuries, so I wasn’t going to fret about 2011, no matter how determined newspapers and nightly newscasters were to terrify me. I guess my instinct served me well, saved money. No roof collapses and, miraculously, not so much as a drop of water leaking into the house, barn or sheds beneath slate roof extending almost the length of a football field.

Yes, the old tavern made it through another cold, snowy New England winter just fine, thank you, and will probably weather many more, friendly spirits smiling from above. Soon the bushes will be blooming, the turkeys will be gobbling, the kids will be fishing, Tim Duprey will be walking my roofs to replace slates now lying atop tall snow piles, and I’ll find the right contractor to build and install a copper roof for the barn cupola. It’s never-ending, yes, but sure does keep life interesting.

A redeeming element of tough winters is the way they enhance spring-fever euphoria, an annual affliction that raises spirits and rivers, and often caused me problems in my younger days. Undaunted, I welcome spring with enthusiasm, not fear.

Defiant Valor

“An army’s bravest men are its cowards. The death which they would not meet at the hands of the enemy, they will meet at the hands of their officers, with never a flinching.

Ambrose Bierce, Civil War hero/author; from “What I Saw of Shiloh.”

 

Monday, final day of our shortest month, a long, cold, snowy February. The trees and bushes are covered with heavy crust as a limb-busting, uprooting rain pelts a slim, exposed slice of flagstone terrace fronting the house under a dense four-foot mound of snow from the slate roof. Audible splashes splatter the clapboards, clearing an inset, two-foot granite face fronting interior cellar bricks. The front-yard bushes and ornamental trees are drooping ominously to the ground, shiny, straining not to snap, frozen in duress until rain and sun removes the tiring snow and unlocks nature’s frozen grip. A perfect day to isolate indoors, let the wheels spin, risky indeed. Never know where it’ll lead a man like me.

So here I sit in my comfortable study, thinking, 9-pointer peering over my head, flames dancing and cordwood crackling in the Rumford fireplace, tall, brass, Federal andirons casting a radiant, orange glow. Having read Jane Kramer’s “Cowbow,” John McPhee’s “Travels in Georgia” and, of all things, a Peter Kropotkin essay on anarchism, I’ve just returned from the mailbox, nothing exciting. But now my shoulders are wet, my wool socks worse, totally my fault. Keen Kreeks are made for stream crossings on summer treks, not tiptoeing through slushy driveway puddles during winter rainstorms. I walked right past a pair of warm, dressed Gokey boots standing beside the hot soapstone stove. Never even considered half-lacing them on. Stupid, I guess. Either that or plain stubborn. Must be that obstinate Yankee streak I’ve coddled for a lifetime, hopefully will only reinforce as I age. Why obey rules and regs when nobody’s here to enforce them? That’s my motto. Guess it must be the Kropotkin in me. A proud Kropotkin at that. I find that stern law-and-order crowd stifling, unimaginative, not for me. I value living in a free country, one that’s getting less free by the minute, if you allow it. I don’t. Refuse. Even find myself fantasizing about retiring at the end of a secluded dirt road somewhere, only the sun, the moon, the stars and critters watching.

My knees are still stiff, tender and cranky after snowshoeing to a Saturday ice-fishing gig on southern Vermont’s Harriman Reservoir. I went with fellas who choose secluded, toasty duck blinds and ice shanties to bring out their little boy within, away from critical eyes. Me, well, I still enjoy a taste of the past now and then. Can’t deny it. But I don’t really need to isolate on a frozen lake or hidden pond to break free; am defiant, I guess, unafraid to occasionally “let go” in the comforts of home. Again, must be the independent, sometimes irascible Yankee in me, god love him. But who knows? It may have nothing to do with colonial rascals or the austere Puritan deacon with a Quaker wife in my background. Could just as easily be the wild-Irish blood of Great-Uncle Dan — a man his Keane siblings spoke of with a twinkle of feigned shame in their eyes — or maybe even the maritime merchants and fishermen from my Nova Scotia roots. They were Acadian French of the name Comeau, their seaside Bay of Fundy hamlet called Comeauville. How could there not have been free spirits among them, probably many more than their women would ever admit, even posthumously? Myself, I have nothing to hide, am what I am, say take it or leave it. Some take. Many have left. But my philosophy has led me to places few “respectable” men have visited, and I do believe I’m a better man for it. Many would disagree. Why argue? It’s pointless. Even my most ardent detractors will praise this free country. They just interpret that bromide different than me, try to strip freedom from and fill prisons with those they say can’t “handle it.” But who are these people, anyway, and who is it they protect? Those are the questions I ask. The answer doesn’t always settle right with me … which brings me to my late son and a pair of war veterans I know, born a generation apart.

First my namesake son, who left this imperfect world three months ago, age 28, far too young. His wife, still numb with heartache, re-posted some of his music videos overnight on Facebook. I just now watched them to rekindle poignant memories and procrastinate a bit, must admit I’m gleaming with pride at his open defiance. Yes, it’s true he had matured and softened his rebellious ways before passing, but there were authority figures from his past he would never forgive, or forget. I wish I could play his lyrics to the rigid flock he scolds, the same people I myself have battled and will continue dismissing as hypocrites and frauds till my final breath. I’d like to tell them to listen carefully, that he’s speaking to them, looking them square in the face, no fear, trying to point them toward the faded path to empathy and understanding, not prosecution and punishment. I accept his views as sound and just, but the people he’s speaking to are not listeners. They’re guardians of convention and conformity, often devoted to a Christian doctrine that places us here temporarily to suffer for a better life after. Yes, we’re supposed to listen to them, and kneel in devout reverence. This vindictive, judgmental lot prefers to sit in private lunchrooms to proclaim to any who’ll listen that the kid’s parents were his problem, and theirs, and the world’s. Their colleagues nod in solemn agreement. Dr. Phil — that tiresome Texas bore, champion of American housewives — would agree.Not me. I’m proud to be of a different persuasion.

I’m reminded of a Facebook tribute posted the day after Gary died, one written by a man I remember as a boy at my house after school, weekends, you name it, a friend of my younger son. He was acting up in school as a teen and, his parents said, heading down the wrong path. They intervened at graduation time and pushed him into the Army, which took him to Iraq, a place from which few have escaped unscathed. Some boys go off to war, buy-in and return to law-enforcement, security, sales jobs and National Guard units throughout the land. Others travel to faraway nations to “save” oppressed people and are greeted by hateful, penetrating eyes that scream, “Go away!” and force them to ask “Why am I here?” When these young men of conscience return home, they tend to drop out, drown their sorrows, get sober and carry the mail, silent and sad, confused, trying to piece it all together. I have known such men who  served in Vietnam, now this boy from the next generation, smart, sensitive, insightful. His day-after tribute to my son read: “Gary was the first person to teach me that authority figures can be jerks. He was right. Still is. R.I.P., Gary.” This a remark fresh from the hot sands of hell by someone sent there for “seasoning” and to learn about respect and obedience, no less. Looks like the men barking orders couldn’t break him.

That young man is similar to the college roommate, teammate and roadmate I befriended a generation ago. An illegitimate twin with a selfish stepdad, he was dropped as a 17-year-old virgin in the late 1960’s onto an Air Force base overlooking Da Nang from a high, sacred mountain. He returned home an angry young man addicted to the best heroin money could buy. Although buried deep, his resentment and fury would surface after nights of heavy drinking. We’d retire to our frat house, apartment or motel after a long night carousing and talk till the sun came up. The conversation would go back to “Nam,” to Lackland Air Force Base, to the officers who ruled him. He’d get agitated, squint his hateful green eyes and scoff, “Give ’em a half a thimbleful of brains and one more stripe than you, and you have to do what they say. They’re in for 10 years and have one more stripe you.” Despite this bias, he held a curious fondness for one “lifer” he would have typically detested. The man was a captain or major whose wife had taken a shine to my friend, a tall, handsome bad-boy with a reputation as a surly, hair-triggered slugger on the base’s fast-pitch softball team. The weekly base newsletter had only to publish a photo of his shorts, tube-socked calves and cleats and everyone knew it was “Mr. Incorrigible,” known up and down the East Coast for towering home runs that disappeared into white summer clouds and landed far behind outfield fences. Everyone else wore their uniform. A steamy and scandalous affair with this officer’s wife ultimately led to a vicious scrap at the officers’-club bar where my friend did not belong. He was promptly cuffed and stuffed and spent 33 days in the brig, what he often called the best 33 days he spent in the Air Force. He faced a court martial for his crimes and settled for an early-out general discharge. The Air Force was happy to be rid of him and the feeling was mutual. But get this: Two or three years after the incident  had rocked the base, the officer-husband he had beaten up came to Amherst annually as my buddy’s weekend guest for the UMass homecoming football game.

I never really asked any probing questions or tried to sort it all out, just watched the two men interact like old friends, with warm eye contact, roars of convivial laughter and playful banter in one loud, smoky bar after another, never so much as an angry word or glance. It was confusing to me, but my friend could not understand why. “I’m grateful to him.” he’d explain. “All I wanted was out, and he helped me.”

You can’t make it up. Impossible. But how to make sense of it all? That’s the question. Or, better still, and more pertinent, how did I ever wander off into this rainy-day ramble on February’s final day? Just came to me, I guess, like a cold draft under the woodshed door. It tickled my nostrils with an evocative scent that wafted me away on a sweet little ride fueled by fond memories.

It’s over now but will come again, perhaps liberating another entombed sliver of unconventional, unpopular perspective from this sovereign soul.

Yard Work

After a long, frigid, snowy winter, spring is peeking over partially exposed stonewalls poking through snow beneath naked hardwoods gathering bright midday sun on southern slopes. Soon, on these same sun-splashed hillsides, the first maple sap will flow freely as dense deer yards break up and scatter hither and yon.

In fact, sap buckets are already dangling from taps on stately old maples gracing our early, muddy, rutted upland roads. Yeah, I know tubing is the way to go for maximum production, but forgive me for being old-fashioned and preferring lidded buckets, the sight and the syrup they produce. But that’s just me. Old-timers will tell you plastic tubing cannot duplicate the “fancy” first-run syrup gathered by bucket, a chore for real men, especially in deep snow. It is said that even the lightest amber gathered by tubes is always a hint darker than bucket fancy, even when the tubes siphoning sugar-bush gold into large basin vats are diligently steam-cleaned before each season, a process which, according to those who know best, happens rarely in frugal New England Yankee land. Why? Simple. Because it takes too big a bite out of profit.

I’m sure some will get hopping mad at me for saying such a thing in print, but those who know best say sap collected in galvanized pails produces lighter syrup in every grade. Being no expert, I’ll take them at their word. But, enough of that, I’m not here to discuss the idiosyncrasies of maple-syrup production. Let’s talk about deer, which, like the maple orchards where they sometimes seek winter refuge, can sense spring approaching, thus the many recent predark sightings along our country roads.

Reports of abundant deer sightings started reaching me early last week, when a friend and hunting buddy called to say he had taken a half-hour ride through north Greenfield and Leyden and counted no fewer than 42 deer. “If you have a chance, you ought to take Joey out for a ride some night before supper,” he said. “I think she’d enjoy it.” And, yes, I may take such a ride if everything lines up just right. But to be honest, it’s not urgent. We have seen it before: fields full of deer exiting their winter yards to feed before dispersing to their home ranges.

During a winter like we’ve endured, with deep, cumbersome snow making travel difficult, deer yards draw more animals than during mild winters. A respected deer biologist and friend once told me that a local deer yard near my home likely draws animals 30 to 50 miles from the north and west. When the snow gets deep, dangerous and daunting, deer leave the high country and settle into southern valley slopes that make life easier. Once the snow melts and the woods open up, the deer disappear, wandering back where they came from. That day is now near. But the next couple of weeks should be ideal for sightings of large deer herds. They seem to love the southeastern Leyden hills, along that first upland plateau west of the Connecticut River.

Less than a week after the first of three rapid-fire reports from my hunting buddy, there came a phone call at work from an old South Deerfield friend who’s ventured into photography in the comforts of retirement. He said he’d been watching several deer eat his evergreen landscaping for weeks but had noticed a significant spike last week. He counted 27 deer as we spoke that night and said he probably missed some. He was curious why, suddenly, his backyard herd had tripled or quadrupled. One of his photos accompanies today’s piece; another, of a coyote with a bloody snout from a fresh deer-kill, accompanied last week’s piece. Obviously, there is a deer yard not far from his home. Those deer are gaining mobility and are now traveling deeply trodden trails to his yews, arborvitae and rhododendron. “Maybe I ought to start buying something to feed them,” he chuckled. “It would probably be cheaper.” Yes, most definitely. In fact, a friend of mine likely feeding some of the same deer puts out dried corn on the cob.

The locations I’ve mentioned in Leyden and Deerfield both rest on elevations not far from the Connecticut River, overlooking rich, Hadley-loam bottomlands. Several recent rides I’ve taken through higher country to the west have revealed little if any deer sign. Then, at a party Saturday night, I had a discussion with an upland resident who lives a little more than a mile up the hill from me. He supported my opinion that the deep snow had chased deer into the lowlands. Asked to assess the regular deer crossings along the steep road behind my home, my neighbor said there were none, zero, and there haven’t been any since the New Year. His last deer sighting on daily commutes to and from home occurred during deer season, when the snow was still manageable.

Soon, along the fertile flats that sprout our first tender, green growth of spring, or around cornfield spilth, motorists will observe unusual herds of 50 to 70 evening deer feeding like cattle, not fleeing when cars slow down to watch. In no time they’ll be gone and smaller groups will again start appearing in the upland meadows.

Yes, this winter’s mortality rate was likely higher than normal, but it’s nothing the herd cannot tolerate. Nature doesn’t work that way without human interference.

Tale Time

Deer, snow, coyotes and, um, a hilltown homer, that’s where we’re headed today.

Yes, more interesting feedback, most of it concerning last week’s column about icy snow spelling deer doom. One respondent was a state cop, another a kid I once coached in South Deerfield, the third an old Hampshire League ballplayer who recalled an ancient home run I hit in Shelburne Falls as a 16-year-old high school junior. All three sources had interesting observations to share.

The trooper, Kevin Wesoloski of South Deerfield, wanted to expand upon my unsubstantiated tale of coyote deer carnage discovered by Hampden snowmobilers. He said he’s heard through the grapevine similar stories from West County snowmobilers who’ve come upon gruesome scenes, blood and body parts everywhere, what he called, “a sure sign that our deer herd will suffer this winter.”

“Weso” also described driving Route 9 through the Quabbin the other day and seeing a half-dozen deer in an oak grove, “all appearing to be standing on top of the crust, good for movement but equally bad for their ability to paw through deep snow for acorns.” That site, east of here, received more freezing rain than we did, thus the thicker, sturdier crust. “Here, our hilltown deer are breaking through and sinking to their bellies,” Weso warned.

Accompanying Weso’s e-mail were three trail-camera photos of large, wily, nighttime coyotes standing atop local snow. “Look at the size of these dogs,” he wrote. “Put a couple in a deer yard and tell me they won’t take down the healthy ones. The weak are always first but these critters don’t just stop there.”

His point is valid. Maybe all the whiners out there, the ones who want to protect every beast in God’s creation, even transfer to them human rights, should someday learn how packs of dogs, wild or domestic, kill deer. Canines do not kill a deer before eating it; they kill by eating, after shredding back-leg tendons to immobilize them. Dogs start on the hind quarters, deer groaning in misery, before tearing open the belly and eating whatever’s available, including organs, stomach contents or tiny, tasty fawns in the womb. At least a big cat snaps the neck of its prey before devouring it. Dogs are less merciful. That’s why domestic dogs were shot on sight in the woods a generation and more ago, a practice today less common because of leash laws.

As for the kid I coached who responded to last week’s column, he’s Keith Bohonowicz. A snowmobiler and avid hunter, Boho’s troubled by the deer he’s seen on woodland travels. No, he hasn’t come upon any slaughterhouse scenes like the one I described in Hampden, just deer in obvious deep-snow distress reacting to human intrusion in a peculiar fashion. Two such rapid-fire observations occurred last Wednesday in the West Deerfield/Shelburne woods known locally as “The Old World.”

First, when Boho and his party approached a small, forested, hemlock-bordered spring hole, he noticed many tracks and all the hemlock branches within six feet of the ground torn to shreds right through the bark. It told him that abundant natural feed on the forest floor was inaccessible. Nearby, he noticed movement and spotted four mature does and a skipper standing with a “deer-in-headlights look,” at mid-afternoon. “As the other machines approached, the deer tried to bound up the ridge,” he wrote. “They made it about 25 yards into thicker cover before stopping and letting us pass.”

After meeting a rider at his house and backtracking, they again passed the site about 20 minutes later and the deer were still standing in the same spot, “not feeding, not moving, almost like they were taking a break after the scare. They proceeded to watch us drive by, even when we stopped for a minute or two to take in the spectacular winter view.”

The crew continued west toward Bardwell’s Ferry and, while descending to the railroad tracks, spotted five more deer standing about five yards off the trail. These animals had stress written all over them as they clumsily fled up a hill. “They tried to ascend the ridge and, as I watched the first doe bound off, she could only go about five or 10 yards before stopping to reset herself in the deep snow and bound again. I’ve seen similar scenarios many times and all you see is a white streak and the deer are gone. It took these deer two or three minutes to go 75 yards to the ridge-top, where they stopped like long-distance runners after a race and looked at us like, ‘Why did you make us move?’ The deep snow is having a negative effect on deer and it worries me. In all my years of hunting and snowmobiling, I have never seen deer act in this queer manner.”

My final source, the one who mentioned that home run, is George “Ace” Mislak, an Ashfield native who now lives not far up the road from me on Patten Hill in Shelburne. Mislak didn’t mention coyotes, just his assessment of the deer population near his home and in his old Ashfield haunts.

“I concur that the deer population has gone from slim in the 70’s to great in the 90’s to slim now …,” he wrote. “Billy Meyers of Colrain is my brother-in-law. We agree that there are fewer deer tracks in the snow these days.”

Something else of interest before I get to the long ball: Mislak’s wife recently saw a cougar near their home. “It had snowed just after Christmas and, as my wife was raising the shade and the neighbor was plowing his long driveway, she noticed an animal cross the main road. You can add her to the list of people who have sighted a long-tailed cat. I quizzed her on every detail and, sure enough, she described a cougar. I know it was not a bobcat. We both watched a pair play near our Reynolds Road home a short time before this.”

As for the home run, well, I hesitate to mention it but cannot resist, finally, because it has been referenced so many times over the years by West County ballplayers who witnessed it, including two righthanders who claim to have been the pitcher. This latest mention stirred my curiosity and sent me to The Recorder microfilm Tuesday night in search of written evidence.

The blast Mislak recalled as “a three-run homer that rolled into the brook,” was in fact a two-run job, according to the April 24, 1970 newspaper account. Mohawk coach Bill Pollard reported the home run without additional fanfare. But judging from the tale’s lasting power, that brook had to be a seldom-reached yardstick. I vaguely recall it as a soaring shot straightaway over the left-fielder’s head, wooden bat and soggy spring turf.

That diamond is today gone. I suspect it was the old Arms Academy ballpark — if so, the house that Harper and Wizzie built. I wonder how far that little brook was from home plate? Maybe not so far. Tales seem to get taller with age. But someone must have an idea of distance. Maybe an old-timer knows and could even add other baseball lore from that storied hilltown ballyard now alongside the elementary school.

God, how I love this stuff.

Snow Woes

Our snow-cover got more dangerous for deer this week, just as we enter the most vulnerable time of year for the hoofed creatures. I can evaluate snow conditions when observing my dogs on their daily routine, which has been dramatically altered the past few weeks, deep, crusty snow complicating matters.

When I daily open the right side of the large double doors exiting my barn to the backyard, I am greeted by two, deep, manmade footpaths leading in a V toward the brook. One path goes left to the cook shed and kennel, the other straight ahead to the footing of an old, long-ago removed foot-bridge that once crossed the brook to pastures and orchards beyond. Following the lip of the eight-foot-high brook bank, a crossing footpath connects the two legs of the V to form a triangle before extending beyond the V’s right leg and onto my neighbor’s slim slice of brook bank graced by large sugar maples wedged between a sturdy stonewall and the stream.

For weeks my rambunctious English Springer Spaniels have been reluctant to leave the established backyard paths for good reason. Every time they’ve ventured out to explore, they’ve had to negotiate deep, cumbersome, icy snow that they obviously view as dangerous when slipping or breaking through … great news for deer. Why? Because, weighing between 40 and 50 pounds, my dogs and the average Eastern coyotes are about the same size. A wild coyote may be more agile, but not much more. So deductive reasoning tells me that the snow has not been ideal for coyotes chasing weakened winter deer.

That all changed Wednesday, the first day in weeks when my pets could freewheel atop the snow, be it running, prancing or walking; absolutely no sign of caution or trepidation for the first time in a month or more. That’s bad news for deer, which are now yarded up in large dormant herds typically bedded in wooded shelters with a couple of paths leading in and out of the bedding area, paths not unlike the ones traversing my snowed-in backyard. Coyotes will typically monitor such deer yards from the periphery, quickly recognizing, killing and eating any deer noticeably weakened by age, injury or malnutrition; but they cannot do serious damage and take down healthy deer without a little help from Mother Nature. Such help is now present, providing coyotes that hard crust they can run across. Problem is that deer cannot stay on top, instead breaking through with their hoofs, tiring quickly and becoming easy, pathetic prey.

Unconfirmed word out of Hampden — which has had significantly more snow than we have — is that snowmobilers last week came upon quite a natural deer slaughterhouse in the woods, with blood and body parts from several deer concentrated in a small area. Supposedly, game wardens were called to the scene and one was so appalled at the carnage that he opined there should be a bounty on coyotes. I hesitate to report such a story, but it came from a credible source I would not question, and even if I could get through to the wardens who visited the kill site, they would never admit to advocating a bounty. Such a comment would create a brushfire for superiors to extinguish, and they would not be happy. Furthermore, it is highly unlikely I’d ever get a chance to talk directly to the officers who responded to the call. Instead, I’d have to go through a state Office of Executive Affairs spokesperson, who would make a few calls, call me back and likely either
tell me the report could not be substantiated or confirm there was a deer-kill investigated without providing the officers’ names, definitely no spontaneous remarks made on the scene.

Fact is that there are many politically correct anti-hunters in this state who would not appreciate seeing such an “ignorant” comment from law enforcement in the paper, and they would scream bloody murder if such an irresponsible, inappropriate, hysterical call for bounties had been publicized. Thus the OEA filter was established several years ago to homogenize news, make life easy for state officials and miserable for scribes worth their salt.

All I can say is: take it for what it’s worth. You be the judge. And be certain that if, over the next few weeks, you decide to explore a forested southern exposure where deer typically yard, you will likely find similar, ugly, crimson horror shows. Yes indeed, balance of nature at its finest. The question is: Who keeps the coyote population in check?

The answer is few. Very few.

Oak Stew

Seems I just can’t abandon the topic of oak trees, red and white, how to differentiate.

This week I will share comments from a wildlife biologist, an arborist and my own brother-in-law, with whom I quite spontaneously broached the subject on the phone Wednesday morning. He, the owner of a large, paradisiacal retirement spread in southern Maine, has successfully planted many white oaks on his property, acquiring a wealth of knowledge along the way. When told I had pilloried my ignorance for a public flogging because I figured to be no less informed than most hunters trying to quickly identify red and white oaks by sight, he was in total agreement. “It’s true,” he said. “I knew very little before I decided to introduce white oaks to my property and studied them.”

The man is now an authority, having planted hundreds of Eastern White, Swamp White and Chestnut oaks on a property that contained only reds when he bought it some four decades ago. A Johnny Appleseed of sorts, he took it upon himself to gather acorns from tall, straight, extraordinary white oaks on the UMass-Dartmouth campus where he taught for many years, the Providence, R.I., private school where he sent his daughters, and several spots along the route from southeast Massachusetts to Maine. One such location, off Route 146 in Rhode Island, held many ancient Chestnut Oaks whose offspring are now doing just fine, thank you, on his Maine farm. As we chatted Wednesday, he said he now has more than 100 white-oak sprouts growing in his cellar, soon to be transplanted into separate cups for future planting.

He learned by trial and error how to successfully grow the seedlings in his woods. He started by concealing the infant oaks among natural seedlings and saplings, which protected them from browsing deer until they reached a height at which he could remove the closest protectors. In the process, he learned a more important trick to combat rodent destruction. Germinated acorns sprout two shoots, one that points to the sky, another a taproot that reaches in the opposite direction. He found that a planted acorn stays remarkably intact long after the sprouts grow, and that the pungent nut attracts rodents that dig it up and eat it in the spring. “They’re quite efficient and troublesome,” he said. “I found that they’d eat those acorns within a week or so of planting, amazing how fast they’d find them and wipe them out.” The problem required creativity. During the indoor transplanting process from a large container holding many sprouts into small individual cups, he now carefully twists the acorn, breaks the tubular taproot and sprout free, pulls it gently through the nut and buries it in the cup. There, the tiny plant continues to grow until planted in the spring. A friend surmised the experiment wouldn’t work. He was wrong. Ten or 12 years later, the small trees started bearing fruit. Wildlife today gravitates to the young white-oak groves. The traffic will undoubtedly increase as the trees mature.

As for the arborist, well, he wrote to inform me that there are only two species of oaks in our woods, red and white. He was responding to my warning that Chestnut Oaks could create confusion when trying to find white oaks because they both had rounded leaves. “The Chestnut Oak is a white oak,” he wrote, “along with the Eastern White Oak, the Swamp White Oak and maybe the Burr Oak, which is, in my opinion, rare here.“White-oak acorns are very different: Eastern has a shallow cup and the acorn is often green, Swamp has a deep, shaggy cup, Burr has a deep, very shaggy cup, and Chestnut has a slender deep acorn and cup. The bark of the two white oaks is similar whitish and furrowed or blocked. The bark of the Burr and Chestnut oaks is rugged thick furrows. Leaves of Swamp and Chestnut oaks are very similar.”

On to our wildlife biologist, an old friend and former state Deer Project Leader I always look forward to hearing from. He wrote to shed light on previous feedback from a reader who said he knew the difference between red and white oaks but found the whites less apt to bear fruit, speculating that this perceived scarcity of acorns could be related to their favored status among foragers. The biologist didn’t disagree that white-oak acorns are favored by animals in the fall but said the observer was ignoring a key factor.

“One important difference between red- and white-oak acorns is when they germinate,” he wrote. “White-oak acorns germinate the fall they drop. Red-oak acorns over-winter and germinate in the spring. So, while white oaks have less tannin and are more palatable, they disappear quickly. Red oaks are valuable to wildlife coming out of winter. In our bear study, in springs following a good red-oak acorn crop, about 25 percent or more of the bears’ diet was acorns after they left their dens. Following a poor acorn year, it was almost 100 percent skunk cabbage. Deer, turkeys and all the other critters also eat those over-wintered red-oak acorns in the spring. Red oaks are by far more common in our New England forests than whites, though in the valley it will vary from wood lot to wood lot.”

So, there you have it: more interesting winter fodder to chew on. God, what did I get myself into, anyway? Actually, give me more, a great cabin-fever antidote. Remember, Native Americans once ground the sweet white-oak nuts into meal and flour for gruel and bread. Now this discussion of red and white oaks is sustaining me through a cold, snowy winter.

Although it may be difficult to believe, spring is near for optimistic spirits. Count me among them. Why dwell on the negative, which then only gets worse? I’d much rather focus on the positive.

Ooooops! Better go. Gotta get in the last round of shoveling before work.

Oaks Revisited

Wow! Quite a reaction to last week’s piece about my difficulties identifying by sight the different oaks in our forest.

Criticism, advice and gracious hands-on offers to teach me proper recognition of red, white and chestnut oaks came my way in rapid fashion. The feedback came from hunters and gatherers, hikers and foresters, ladies and men. Clearly, it’s high time I put this confusion behind me. Oh my, look what I got myself into by pillorying my ignorance on the public square.

Oh well, like the old trapper at Punkin’ Hollow used to say: “There’s more than one way to skin a cat,” a lesson I learned long ago and have learned to lived by. And the fact is that I already know more than I did a week ago about oak trees, and I never left my toasty study, flames dancing upward like snakes’ tongues in the Rumford fireplace. Ah, praise the Internet, despite the winter layer of fat this type of surfing can build. But, hey, don’t animals need fat to survive winter? Why should we, animals too, be any different?

But wait. Enough self-deprecation. It’s not like I’m totally clueless about the trees in our forest. Actually, I’m not bad at picking out the basic species as I traipse through the woods, trees like oak, beech, ash, maple, hickory, cherry, walnut, butternut, apple and hemlock. There are many other trees, bushes and plants I recognize, but I am by no means a botanist or dendrologist. In fact, I have never taken a course focused on the study of trees and plants. Or, maybe I did and have forgotten. I hated science; too much memorization. But who says you need a formal classroom to learn anything? Myself, I’ve just poked around over the years and picked things up in my travels, including information about trees and plants related to my favorite woodland pursuits. So I guess you could say I know enough to get by, and have done just that for decades, making exciting new discoveries along the way; likely many more before I check out.

I guess I’m no different than most hunters and woodsmen who patrol the forest for work or play. Remember, it was just such a man, a hunter and cordwood merchant no less, who taught me to misidentify white oaks by their bark’s deep grooves and prominent ridges. That was a bogus identification key, one I bared for all to see last week. Several readers were quick to point out the error, scolding that the deeply grooved bark, dark in color, belongs to red (and chestnut) oaks, not whites, which display smoother, scalier bark, whitish-gray in color. Thanks. I needed that. Forever enlightened. On to nature’s next riddle.

My mistaken bark-identification key was “learned” in the past five years, and I accepted it without delving deeper because I trusted the teacher. Prior to that woodland “lesson,” the white-oak identifier I most often used when inspecting a pawed-up feeding area was round, stubby acorns, which I have even tasted for sweetness to confirm my amateur assessment. I have also sampled red-oak acorns, their tannins producing a bitter taste that I suppose you could ignore if really hungry. A Heath forester I respect wrote to confirm that white acorns do indeed tend to be stubbier than reds, especially at the cap. Of course, Internet photos and “Peterson’s Guide to Trees” then cast doubt by showing some elongated white-oak nuts as well.

So it appears that the safest way to identify white oaks is by their leaves. Red-oak leaves are long and pointy; whites are similarly structured but rounded. Then arises another problem, that of chestnut oaks, which have rounded leaves similar to their white cousins. The difference between those two oak species lies in the bark. Judging from Internet photos I viewed, the chestnut oak’s bark has more prominent ridges and deeper grooves than the red. So, if the grooves are very deep, the leaves rounded, the ridges like the widest of all corduroys, you’re dealing with chestnut oaks, said to produce acorns favored by deer over those of red oaks.

Enough!

Off to a couple of interesting observations that appeared among the many responses to my white/red oak dilemma. One, from a South Deerfield chum who spends a lot of time poking around in the woods, said he knew a white oak by sight and has discovered they’re less likely to bear acorns
for some reason; either that, he speculated, or foraging critters snap them up as soon as they hit the ground, maybe even before. Another more comical remark came from a woman who hunts salubrious wild foods and has been searching for white-oak acorns near her hill-town home. She said that, although she has thus far been unable to find white oaks near her property, she did find a beautiful, mature white oak at Arms Cemetery in Shelburne Falls, a prolific acorn producer, at that.

“But I’m not eating those acorns,” she wrote, for obvious reasons.

Well, chubby, gray, burial-ground squirrels are not so fussy and reap the benefits.

A Hidden Gem

A six-foot snow bank at a dead end marked the beginning of our quarter-mile trek through deep, fluffy, toe-dragging snow. We skirted the pile and followed a convenient foot-wide deer path down the wooded trail into a peaceful hollow before ascending to the crest of a gentle hill long ago cleared by and named after the man who built the center-chimney Cape standing frozen in antiquity there.

Because I don’t like to pinpoint important historic sites, let me just say this tranquil hillock rests somewhere in our western Franklin hills, said by an astute 90-year-old friend to be “honeycombed with interesting places and important people.” He knows. An auctioneer and antiques dealer, the man furnished many a country getaway with Queen Anne tables, Chippendale chests, Hepplewhite stands and Federal portraits, all handsome pieces of Americana with fascinating tales to tell. Our destination on this day was such a place kept by such people, transplants all, the best and brightest. Without these preservationists, all that would likely remain today would be an overgrown, stone-clad depression with many more questions than answers; one of too many buried under the canopy of historic landscapes. This one was spared the indignity.

But that’s it for clues. No more. I have learned my lesson. Once, when writing about woods dear to me, I assumed my intentionally vague references would help only a few harmless natives. I later discovered that a bright, misguided transplant from faraway had deciphered the location. I was surprised, even impressed, also reminded that even a little information can be too much. It won’t happen again. Cellar holes, cemeteries and Native paths are worthy of concealment from thieves, snoops and busy-bodies. Why contribute to the degradation of archaeological sites by giving away location? Not me. Maybe I’m selfish, or judicious. Call it what you may. I’m not budging.

Although I was revisiting this newfound treasure trove of local history to retrieve an essay about the dwelling and its stewards — and to examine a large cellar chamber inside the 10-foot-square stone base of the chimney — I also wanted to check the deer sign, which had been plentiful a week earlier during a walk through the property with a genial guide and caretaker. The woman knew from my prose that I loved, even worshipped, upland hardwood forests, and she had such a place to share, one harboring a 300-year-old oak tree that five men could not get their arms around. There are few oaks like it left in our Franklin hills, and even this one, broad and burly, has seen better days.

Interestingly, near that giant oak lay what was left of a small 6-point buck, likely killed and not found during the most recent deer season. Our dogs, three of them, quickly found the skeletal remains left by coyotes. My Springers returned with jawbones as her Aussie Shepherd proudly paraded the small rack and skull plate. My guide, joy in her gait, love of nature oozing through her pores, lugged those antlers for the remainder of our walk and hung them on a peg at home. A trophy of sorts.

Having bemoaned the scarcity of deer sign in woods I knew well during the season, I was surprised by what I had seen on my first visit to this unfamiliar forest. Many deer runs traversed the open hardwoods, and pawed-up foraging patches were prevalent through the oaks. There seemed to be no shortage of deer or turkeys on this wooded slice of upland paradise, forest in the 40- to 60-year range, beautiful open hardwoods with a few ancient behemoths mixed in, their massive limbs flexing their biceps before reaching to the high heavens.

I was curious to see what kind of deer activity we’d find on my second visit, a few days after our first big storm dropped a new layer of snow. Well, it was impressive, deer and turkey sign everywhere, focused primarily on plentiful acorns buried deep on the forest floor, especially under the muscle-bound oaks bordering the ancient road. The humbling trip reminded me once again that I must better learn to quickly and positively identify white oaks, which are less plentiful in our woods than reds but more important to wildlife. I was taught to identify white oaks by their deeply grooved bark, with more prominent ridges than their red cousins. A woodsman who makes his living selling cordwood taught me that distinguishing characteristic, and I accepted it. Another way to distinguish between red and white oaks is the acorns they produce. White oaks grow rounder, stubbier acorns than reds, and the white-oak meat is sweet and succulent. At least that’s what I’ve been told.

I now have reason to question my identification keys. When I pointed out a large roadside white oak near the secluded dwelling we visited, my guide corrected me, saying she had studied its leaves and they were sharply pointed, not rounded white-oak leaves. Hmmmm? Maybe large, old red oaks also have deeply-grooved bark. Can’t say for sure. Hopefully someone will chime in to straighten me out. Maybe it varies. Perhaps I have been misled. I do know that if there are no white oaks available, then deer and turkeys will eat other acorns. But, still, deer and bears, and probably turkeys and squirrels, prefer the sweeter meat of white oaks, and so did the Natives who gathered them for protein-rich sustenance.

I admit I can be lazy when given an excuse. Over the years as I’ve walked the woods looking for deer sign, passing hundreds of oaks along the way, some trees are pawed-up underneath, many are not, and I have assumed without closer inspection that the most aggressively pawed-up stands contain white oaks. When I investigate further, I have often found stubby acorns, even occasionally bite into them to sample their sweetness. It may be time to dig deeper, hone my identification skills to provide one more edge in putting it all together. Google is of little help.

Are not mysteries and riddles intrinsic forest beauties, even in familiar woods, gun or none, one puzzle today, another tomorrow, often related, sometimes not? To me it’s true. And these mysteries of the wild will continue to lure me back, my mangled left knee and flimsy right ankle willing.

Yes, there’s always something new to ponder in the woods, be it tight streamside stonework, a collapsed cellar hole, kindred spirits, or one of nature’s infinite mysteries, all present to make our cognitive wheels scream, our imagination purr.

Mad Meg theme designed by BrokenCrust for WordPress © | Top