Heaven Sent

This is a tale of perseverance and Thanksgiving, that of octogenarian Richard Phelps, known to his family as “Ritt,” Vermonter to the core, a throwback from way back.

Phelps claims he’s applied for a Vermont moose permit every year since they became available “and they finally gave me one at prit’near 90.” Or, at least, that’s how he put it to me on the phone this week. He described his good fortune a little differently to daughter Patricia Knight of Jamaica, Vt., telling her, “They waited till I was prit’near dead before givin’ me one.” Phelps is 88.

Well, the permit may indeed have come a bit too late for the average Joe. Problem is there’s nothing average about ole “Ritt,” who daughter affectionately describes as “quite a character.” No sir. Ole Ritt knew exactly what to do with his long-awaited opportunity. He capitalized, put healthy, lean, wild meat in his freezer. Yes, less than an hour into that opening-day hunt, he jumped a 4-point, 412-pound bull and took it down with his .308 caliber rifle. Now it’s all cut up and packaged, providing tasty, salubrious fall and winter fare, high in protein, low in cholesterol. Just what the doctor ordered for an old codger, one with centuries-old Massachusetts Bay Colony blood flowing through his streams.

Phelps admits moose “aren’t as hard to hunt as deer,” but said he was happy to get one on his first try. “This one’s very good eatin’, too,” he said. “The big ones are tough. This one’s tender, very good eatin’.”

No stranger to hunting, Phelps has been quite the deerslayer over a long and storied southern Vermont career. The 10-point buck he shot 20 years ago in his hometown of Readsboro, Vt., scored 146.7 Boone & Crockett points, good for No. 52 on the all-time Vermont Big Game Trophy Award Program record book. Asked what that animal weighed, he couldn’t recall, but he thought it went over 200 pounds. “I’ve shot so many I really can’t remember what that one weighed,” he said. “It was the nicest deer I ever shot,” is mounted on his wall. He was 68 at the time of that kill, no spring chicken.

Phelps spent most of his life in Readsboro before moving to his current address in a neighboring Deerfield Valley hilltown called West Dover. Although he didn’t know the Northeast Kingdom territory where he shot his moose, oldest son Gordon did, because he owns a hunting camp in nearby Sheffield, Vt., where they bunked for their extended-family hunt. “An old fella told us there was moose in there,” said Phelps, “so that’s where we went. He didn’t steer us wrong.” Phelps described the site of the kill as “just above Concord, Vt.,” which means he was hunting in or along the periphery of Victory Bog, a veritable moose haven where the density of the Cervidae beasts may be greater than anywhere else in the Green Mountain State.

Once the animal was dressed out and ready to remove from the heavily logged-off wood lot, Phelps’ grandson drove his pickup truck to within 100 feet of the carcass and his tribe dragged it to the truck and hoisted it onto the bed. “Four of ’em put it right up on the truck,” Phelps proudly recalled. “Didn’t seem to bother ’em much, just got it right up there.”

Phelps had ridden a rocky road this year leading up to his eventful day. First his beloved wife of 65 years, Myrtle A. (Ellis) Phelps, passed away on July 2 at the age of 86. Then he suffered what his daughter called “a mild stroke” about a month later, on Aug. 4, to further complicate matters. Determined to get back on his feet and participate in his first moose hunt, Phelps diligently rehabbed at Physical Therapy Plus in Wilmington, Vt., and took the time to target practice with son Howard of Colrain every Sunday leading up to opening day.

The Phelps descendants accompanying the patriarch on his memorable hunt included son Gordon, grandson Douglas, and great-grandsons Stephen, Brian, Nicholas and Ryan. That’s something most can only dream of: four generations of a family sharing hunting camp. A fifth-generation male is due soon. Stephen Phelps’ wife is expecting a baby boy in February. So maybe ole “Ritt” will have a chance to imprint his love of hunting in his great-great-grandson’s soul, too.

Phelps credits the departed member of his family for delivering him his moose. Yes, he will go his grave convinced that late wife Myrtle “was looking after me” in the woods and at the annual lottery, maybe even guided the hand that pulled his card.

I dare anyone to prove him wrong.

Swamp Bucks

An expert deer hunter I am not, do not profess to be, never had the benefit of a venerable mentor to hunt beside, teach me. Yes, I have taken deer over the years, mostly does when holding a rare permit during shotgun or blackpowder. But, still, I always keep my eyes open and try to understand deer by evaluating surprise close encounters, one recent.

Many of those chance encounters occur during pheasant season, while noisily brush-busting through dense alder swamps. That’s when I seem to jump deer, often nice bucks making the rounds during the November rut. It never ceases to amaze me where I find them, what I’m doing at the time of the sighting, and how I am moving compared to the way I slither through the woods when actually hunting deer. It leaves me thinking that perhaps I do it all wrong during deer season, slowly stalking, still-hunting, sitting on stand for hours waiting for one to appear. Some of the best deerslayers I have known, especially trappers, learn fast that you’re just as apt to bump a deer and have a good shot at it while moving like I do while bird hunting through dense, tangled cover. These men have the trophies to prove it.

My recent deer sighting occurred an hour into a pheasant hunt while angling across a gnarly open field toward a corner of dense young alders fronting cattails, a deep ditch filled with water, and taller, mature alders behind it. I was handling the dogs, often giving them two short bursts on my whistle to turn them, also giving them the whistle and vocal command to “come around,” my way of keeping them within range. It was after such a command that Lily appeared from my right and sprinted down a manmade path through dried golden rod and other weeds, tail furiously wagging. As I watched her, I caught a subtle flash of white in the young, head-high alders ahead of her, then noticed movement; yes, a big deer, head low, furtively trotting. When it broke briefly into a partial 10- or 12-foot opening, I could see large antlers, then its hind quarters as it moved away from me. When it reached the ditch, it jumped the water and circled back toward a dense, impenetrable alder swamp. Imagine that, I thought: all this activity and racket by me and the dogs, and a big buck passes within 80 yards; the third straight year I had seen a nice buck in that field at midday.

I jumped my first buck in that piece three years ago, maybe 100 yards east of this recent sighting. The big animal came out of the same type of young alder cover. It stood up, froze broadside for a moment to look at me and the dogs, then bound off through eight-foot, thorny cover, across a wide meadow brook, through a brown swamp and into a faraway hardwood stand. Then, last year, this time in taller alders nearer the road, maybe 10 a.m., the dogs jumped a big buck that bound off across the road and up a steep hill of mature oaks. It too wore a handsome rack, which, upon further inspection, had been used to tear up the alders it had been flushed from while making a large, aggressive rutting scrape on the ground. The dogs got to within 20 feet of that animal before it bailed out, and I was no more than 20 yards away, not trying to conceal my presence.

Another similar sighting that occurred in the past three or four years in the same area involved four does. A friend and I were hunting the back, secluded, L-shaped field with three dogs, Ringo, Lily and Bessie. We were working between the woods on the long leg of the L when the dogs broke into the trees on the west side of the field. Out came the four does, tails high, bounding across the open field no more than 25 to 30 yards in front of us. My friend claimed he could have killed all four with his buckshot gun, a long-barreled, full-choked, Belgian-Browning, Auto-5. I had no reason to doubt him.

“Why doesn’t that seem to happen during deer season?” he quipped, shaking his head. Probably because he never hunts deer that way, likely never will.When I told the landowner this week of the handsome buck I had seen in the alders, he knew of it. His brother had seen it, called it among the largest bucks he had ever seen, and the man has killed many nice rackers in his day. When I got to talking about all the nice deer I had seen in that dense covert in recent years, the landowner wasn’t a bit surprised. He said bucks live in that swamp and are nearly impossible to hunt. In the last year or two when he, his father and brother weren’t having any luck in the highlands, he remembered well a memorable swamp maneuver he put on for for the boys. He pulled on a pair of hip boots and thrashed through the alders and bull briars, trying to move deer toward the back lip overlooking the swamp, where his father and brother were “posted up.” The strategy didn’t work, no matter how hard he tried.

“I kept hearing those deer in front of me, to my side, in back of me, not far away at all, splashing through water, running around, making a lot of noise,” the swamp-buster recalled. “But I was helpless, could barely see flags, never pushed one anywhere near my father or brother. Once they’re in that swamp, you might as well leave them there because they’re almost impossible to get.”

Either that or maybe just sit patiently along the swamp’s edge near a frequently traveled run and wait for the deer to enter or exit the habitat early and late. It’s about the only chance you have when you can’t use use Springer Spaniels to help you.

Eventful

The air was gray, leaves piled in massive, narrow mounds, front yard and back, as the rain let up and a strong, blustery, north wind rattled the dining-room window like a ghost begging for coffee. I took it as a call from the wild, 9:05 a.m. on old Eli Terry, pride of Plymouth, Conn., circa 1824. It looked like a great day to hunt, run the dogs and get some exercise. Off to a covert saturated with free ancestral spirits, happy ghosts that lift me during every visit, help me understand the habitat and how game birds utilize it.

With my mind fixed on hunting, I promptly went to the carriage shed to retrieve my hunting clothes and warm them on chairs in front of the woodstove before gathering three armloads of cordwood to fill the iron cradle next to it. When done, I opened the stove, heaped the red-hot embers over the grate, went back into the woodshed and selected two hefty pieces of black locust to burn during my absence, dampered down for a slow, soothing burn. I next sat on a wing chair and put on my athletic shorts, tube socks and sleeve that overlaps them both to cover my knee under a brace. That done, I was ready to strap on my brace and put on my T-shirt, cotton shooting shirt, whistle lanyard and Filson Tincloth bibs, fastening a belt tightly at the waist before lacing up my boots, grabbing the side-by-side leaning against the door jamb and heading out for my shooting vest, orange hat and dogs. The stormy nor’easter wind promised to make the hunt challenging, scattering scent and giving any pheasants that flushed a strong, quick tailwind to safety.

I arrived at the covert before 10 and was pleased to see a neighboring hunter’s vehicle parked in his yard. He hunts the field plenty but objects to other hunting there, thinks he owns the place despite holding title to not a square inch. He had probably already hunted there earlier, but that didn’t concern me. I’ve been getting mine behind him for 30 years, seems to always be enough for everyone. Apparently he doesn’t think so, believes they’re all his. After passing a decaying barnyard and making a sharp left turn, I could see from afar that the covert was vacant. Perfect. Even if people had already been through, I felt confident Lily and Buddy would make things happen. They didn’t disappoint.

The first flush, a hen about five minutes into my walk, caught me totally by surprise as I jumped a ditch swollen with water from the heavy overnight rain. I found a narrow crossing, looked down, pushed off with my bad left leg and, before I landed, Lily had the bird flying with the wind. By the time I mounted my weapon and found the flying bird, it was too late, out of range, never even squeezed off a shot. The bird totally left the cover, flying all of a quarter mile into the other side of a dense alder swamp. No problem. Things were looking up. But Lily wasn’t pleased. She prefers her flushes to be followed by a deafening roar and a retrieve. Not this time. My god, the disgusted looks I get from that dog and others over the years when a bird escapes. It’s priceless. Truly priceless.

Anyway, I continued along an old fence row dense with high, thorny cover and, judging from Lily’s energy, suspected another bird was about to flush, which didn’t happen immediately. No, I followed that fence row all the way to the end, dropped into a depression and back up the other side before following a tree line and ditch back in the direction from which I had come, crosswind perfect, blowing right to left. Lily lit up and sprinted down a manmade path into some seven-foot cover. There, she stopped on a dime and headed directly into the wind for the ditch, a hidden pheasant runway. I positioned myself for a clear shot and soon heard a cackle, caught a flash on the other side of two or three tall white pines, then saw a ringed-neck rooster pop into the open 45 yards away, angling quickly away from me with the wind at its back. I dropped my forefinger onto the back trigger and reluctantly fired to no avail. Birds 2, me 0. Oh well. It wasn’t over yet.

With my interest piqued, there was still lots of acreage to hunt, albeit under difficult conditions, wind whipping the goldenrod and other high, brown weeds in all directions, making it difficult to hear and follow the dogs’ movement. I don’t use a bell on my dogs because I believe the noise sets a smart bird fleeing; in fact, am convinced of it. But that’s just me. Many prefer a bell. To each his own.

I followed the hedgerow west to another water-filled ditch and thin row of alders running south toward a large house on a knoll overlooking the covert. Lily soon picked up scent on the other side of the ditch and started running fast, bouncing, nose high, dark brown ears flopping above the underbrush in the wind. I knew there was a bird nearby, was careful to point my feet in the right direction for a flush. Lily followed the scent trail into a thick hillside alder stand 25 to 30 yards to my right and I quickly heard a hen pheasant whistle into flight, then caught her headed right toward the house. I had a good shot but it would have been right at the house so I didn’t fire, not worth angering abutters to a good covert, even if you are 500 feet away. The bird soon changed direction, swinging left and riding the wind for the deep, dense, overgrown alder swamp, finally presenting a safe, difficult, 40- to 50-yard shot I attempted with my back trigger and missed. Birds 3, me 0. One of those days, conditions in the birds’ favor. Not a problem. Fun.

I continued south along the gnarly ditch, sun in my face but high enough to be a non-factor, and arrived at a familiar stand of cattails backed up by alders and marsh from which I have flushed many birds over the years. Lily and Buddy aggressively searched for scent on my side of the water-filled ditch first, then swam maybe 10 feet to the other side, searching furiously for pheasant scent. Buddy stayed close and I told Lily to “go back,” which she happily did, determined to kick something up. As she splashed through alders and cattails, a faraway rooster cackled and caught my attention. When I looked in the direction of the sound, I caught a wild flush 150 yards out, flying out of the covert and into the dense alder swamp, out of reach. Then, when I refocused on Lily, maybe 40 yards out and animated, up came a whistling hen at angled away from me quickly with the help of a wind gust. It wasn’t much of a shot but I’ve seen similar ones connect, so I squeezed off another back-trigger prayer and didn’t alter the bird’s flight a bit. Oh well, four flushes, three back-trigger heybangers and not so much as a feather on the ground. One of those days, I guess, but good column fodder. I decided to go home and record the events, put another column in the rear-view to clear up precious hunting-season time.

I hunted back to my truck, flushed nothing, boxed up the dogs, unloaded my gun, put in snap-caps and pulled the triggers to relieve the spring tension before closing old Jean Breuil back in his hard plastic case. As I pulled out of my spot listening to WEEI know-it-alls Dale and Holley evaluating the Patriots’ lopsided loss to Cleveland, I saw a pheasant-stocking truck approaching from a half-mile up the road. We eventually passed each other on my way out and I stopped along the side of the road to watch MassWildlife’s finest fly 12 birds into the covert I had just left. Nice! I wasn’t interested in going back; hate hunting a freshly stocked field; too chaotic, birds disoriented and easy. Plus, I had another agenda: this column.

I figured I’d give other fellas the rest of the day to kill birds and shack others around before I returned the next morning, not particularly early. There always seems to be enough birds to go around if you’re not selfish; if you don’t think you own the place, have exclusive rights to it. I have no time or respect for such people; hypocrites, pigs. I’ve had many fine days hunting behind them, and it drives them crazy. They’ve probably had success behind me, too. Don’t know or care.

To be honest, it never bothers me one bit when I have a day like I had Monday in a November nor’easter. I got my exercise, the dogs had fun and a powerful north wind scattered pheasants into an impenetrable bog. They’ll be back, and so will I, whether my buddy likes it or not.

Four flushes, including a wild one, three back-trigger heybangers and a stocking truck on the way out to freshen the place up for another day. A good day in my book, even though my game bag was empty.

Mutual Reliance

Breaking in a new gun dog is a chore that’s only as unpleasant as you choose to make it. You can be demanding — screaming, hollering and getting physical — or, then again, just try to make it fun by taking the pressure off and letting the animal’s instincts rule. I prefer the latter. But that’s just me. Some prefer to play drill sergeant.

Buddy came to me in May at 11 months old. Friend Cooker — a breeder, field trialer and hunting buddy — owned him until then, had introduced him to limited field work, and was not happy with his retrieves. Seems my friend thought Buddy was clamping down too tightly on the birds, tried to quickly correct the flaw and built an immediate conflict that made the animal uncomfortable. So Cooker approached me before Memorial Day about taking on Buddy, figuring I could overcome the retrieving issue with my nonthreatening approach. He said the dog came from a royal pedigree, many national champions behind him, and would be an excellent stud for my bitch, Lily, a 7-year-old dynamo, also of aristocratic blood.

As I watch Buddy develop this fall, free and easy, I clearly remember Lily tagging along with Ringo six and seven years ago, then Bessie tagging along with Ringo and Lily two and three years back. Now Ringy and Bessie are dead, Lily’s the finished gun dog and Buddy’s the tagalong, as compatible a duo as I’ve owned. Buddy aggressively attacks a covert, investigating every scent that enters his alert nostrils, observing everything going on around him, totally deferring to Lily. He watches Lily pursue a scent, pick up the pace, flush the bird and retrieve it. He never challenges her for a retrieve, just moves gingerly into her space, watches, listens to my commands and will soon mimic the routine when I hunt him alone. I have absolutely no doubt about that, have seen it before, and, yes, have had to defend my laid-back teaching method to detractors who doubted my approach but soon witnessed positive results. I do not train to the field-trial standard. My dogs are flush-and-retrieve hunters, not field-trail dogs. They pound a covert searching for scent. I read them and follow them wherever they take me, a system that has always worked for me. Yes, I have a plan upon entering a covert. But when the dogs find a hot scent, I follow them, even in the opposite of my intended direction.

Buddy is not past the point where he searches for and chases anything, be it rabbits or squirrels, ground birds or field mice, burying his nose deep into thick, ground-hugging cover, pawing at the turf and coming up with a mouthful of frost-brown grass, maybe even a little  rabbit hair. He flushes pheasants and woodcock, will undoubtedly flush the first partridge he bumps, but isn’t yet focused exclusively on game birds, ignoring all else. That is not to say that even an experienced gun dog won’t chase a rabbit when crossing a fresh scent-trail where bird scent is scarce. But even during such an uneventful hunt, an experienced gun dog will leave rabbit scent immediately upon crossing the scent of a game bird. Buddy will soon display this trait, too, maybe this year, definitely next year and many to follow. Trust me. Depends how much one-on-one I give him this year.

Buddy’s best attribute is his proclivity to stay close, run tight quarters and keep track of where I am. I cannot take credit for developing these desirable tendencies. In fact, I am shocked, given the demeanor he displayed on walks throughout the summer. I’d exercise him through open fields and he’d pin back his ears and sprint the perimeter like a racehorse, the athleticism impressive to watch, and worrisome. Was he going to run like that in the hunting field? Well, the answer to that question, a pleasant surprise, was no. Put him in dense cover and he stays tight naturally. It has a lot to do with the covert, which holds him back, offers thorny resistance and is full or fresh scents to keep a dog’s interest. Were I running him through a cornfield or along the edge of corn stubble bordering a swamp, it’s unlikely that he’d stay as tight. The same goes for Lily, and Ringo before her. Put an athletic dog in a dense, thorny covert, and they’re a joy to hunt over. Put them in an open, shin-high rye field, or low, sparse brown cover, or along an edge, and they’re too fast for an enjoyable hunt.

When a crosswind is coming out of the covert, a good dog will sprint the periphery and quickly figure out if there’s anything within 30 yards, maybe more, depending on the barometric pressure, the lower the better. I avoid easy, open coverts like the bird flu, have many times watched in frustration from dense cover when the dog bursts out into a mowing or freshly tilled cornfield, runs 50 to 80 yards along the perimeter, comes to a screeching halt and bursts 10 yards into cattails, alders, multiflora rose or other dense cover. Within seconds you hear the “cuck-cuck-cuck-cuck” and watch a long-tailed rooster fly deep into the swamp. I have a chance when hunting with another gunner who’s walking the edge while I’m busting the brush. But even then, it’s never easy, because my dogs pay little attention to others’ commands, if my partners would even attempt to give one.

Like I have always told my hunting buddies after a wild flush or missed shot: If you killed them all, it wouldn’t be fun anymore, sort of like a fastball down the middle, even a hanging curveball. Sometimes you foul the cookies back, sometimes you swing and miss, sometimes you hit it sweet and foul. To me, wing-shooting is a lot like hitting a baseball. That’s why I love it, am driven to the coverts daily; rain or shine, hot or cold, limping or pain free, which, these days, is never, even with my knee tightly braced, ibuprofen circulating to inhibit swelling.

Those lingering knee issues bring me back to buddy Cooker, Buddy’s breeder. More than 20 years ago while hunting woodcock with a Northampton orthopedic surgeon who had recently scoped my chronic left knee, the doctor informed him that, if I didn’t promptly give up softball, my bird-hunting days were numbered. “In fact,” the doctor warned, “it may already be too late for him to be bird-hunting into his 50s.” Cooker just squeezed out a wry grin, shook his head and said, “You don’t know Bags.”

Well, I didn’t quit softball; kept playing until the leagues fizzled. Now 57 and stubborn as ever, I’m still chasing birds with a passion, a little mind over matter, a lot of ignoring pain.

I can thank the dogs. They keep me going, me them. Call it mutual reliance.

Fishing Royalty

The noontime sky had cleared Friday after heavy overnight rains, and the sun was bright in an endless, blue sky, white clouds wafting east like lumpy cotton swabs. I was out by the mailbox picking up a gray Rubbermaid barrel and four recycling bins, tidying up for an important overnight guest due anytime. Never know what’ll greet you by the side of the road, maybe even news to fill this space.

As I stacked the four plastic bins one inside the other, a mini-van, I think white but can’t recall, approached slowly from the west, obviously wanting to talk. I figured the driver was lost. I was mistaken. He knew exactly where he was and broke the ice by asking what I knew about my neighbor’s motorcycle he’d seen parked along Brook Road for several weeks. Was it for sale? I told the man, older than me, accompanied by his wife, that I had no clue about the motorcycle, had never even seen my neighbor ride it. But it soon became clear it was not the bike he was interested in. No, the man was a picker, buyer of antiques and collectibles, curious what I had lying around my home and barn. He asked how long I’d owned the place and what had been left behind by the previous owners, well known collectors. That’s when the fun began.

I must admit I love rattling pickers’ cages, flash ing a wry grin, telling them I they’re barking up the wrong tree, that I was indeed born in the dark but it wasn’t yesterday. An old pro will have a reply for anything you can throw at them, though. Their steadfast goal is to at least get in the barn. Then, once there, all eyes, they try to find their way inside your home. Something like, hey, is it true there’s a ballroom with a spring-loaded floor upstairs? I’ve heard it often — hint-hint — and it’s a hoot to hold them at bay, give them the business, all friendly banter. I’ve been through it many times, be it walking the flea-market at 5 a.m., perusing a roadside antiques shop or an on-site country auction. The chit-chat is at least half the fun, meeting lots of interesting characters along the way, all with their own rehearsed, idiosyncratic spiels and yarns and pitches. This guy was one of them, right up my alley. Before long, he reaches into his wallet and hands me a business card identifying him self as a buyer of antiques and collectibles. When I notice he’s from Gill, I tell him jokingly that there’s not a “Gillbilly” alive I’d let into my place. When he asks why, I tell him I’ve learned over the years not to trust Gillbillies, they’re shaky, dishonest, can’t be trusted. He laughs, says he’s no Gillbilly. He lives in Riverside. Then he informs me that he’s made a lot of money off of shaky, dishonest fellas over the years. I reiterate that he’s barking up the wrong tree, an image any Gillbilly can understand.

Anyway, at about this point of our mischievous discussion, a silver SUV with Pennsylvania plates pulls up from the east and stops in front of my mailbox, facing us. Still talking to the wheeler-dealer and unable to see through the tinted SUV windows, I tell him to hold on for a second, I have to see who it is. So I walk over to the vehicle, the power window drops and it’s John Randolph from up the hill in East Colrain. We get talking and he hands me a program from the Oct. 9 Fly Fishing Hall of Fame induction ceremony at The Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum in Livingston Manor, N.Y. Randolph was as one of four 2010 inductees, quite an honor for a country boy from Colrain, son of a namesake New York Times outdoor writer.

Young John was an Arms Academy boy, then off to Mount Hermon School and Williams College; quite a ballplayer in his day, fierce and competitive, now a world-class fly fisherman, and author. I met Randolph through my late friend Tommy Valiton, Randolph’s high school teammate and friend who suggested I meet him and get permission to hunt his posted property. We have been friends and sometimes neighbors ever since. His second home, the one he grew up in, rests three miles up the road on a scenic slice of Franklin County paradise; deer, bears, moose, turkeys, you name it, they’re there. Who knows, maybe even a disoriented big cat passing through now and again.

As I speak to Randolph and wife Mary — his high school sweetheart from Shelburne Falls, daughter of Dr. Galbo, who practiced nearly 60 years on Main Street, Shelburne Falls — my picker friend grows indignant. He pulls up slowly and gruffly scolds Randolph for cutting into a potentially productive conversation. I reiterate that he has nothing to worry about: he wasn’t getting anything out of me, anyway. He shoots back that he’s heard that before, and then Randolph cuts in with a line or two of his own playful banter, creating a triangular verbal harpoon fight. No foreigner to history and antiques, Randolph knows the lingo, can talk the talk, even sent son John to auctioneer school, one of the best, in New York.

The picker seems humored as he pulls away, promising to someday return. I’ll welcome round two if he catches me in the right mood, which is most anytime. As he pulls around the corner and out of sight, I ask Randolph how long he’ll be in the neighborhood. He tells me through the weekend. I promise to stop by and talk when I get a chance.

The next morning I travel to his upland Federal home and catch him leaving for errands with Mary. He’s standing outside of his SUV talking to an old Arms Academy chum in a white pickup, a hunter who tells me about Savage Arms’ muzzleloaders, the best money can buy, in his opinion, better than the more popular ones most hunters are using these days. Randolph informs me that I arrived at a bad time. Come back Sunday morning. No problem. The brilliant sugarbush and flaming landscape between his home and Mt. Monadnock was well worth the trip.

I catch the Randolphs at the Sunday breakfast table, looking north through a large, multi-paned window across their pasture and old orchard to a ridge I have hunted many times. He leaves the room to dig out a photo album of snapshots from the 1940s, wants to show me what the forested ridge looked like when he was a kid, open fields and narrow tree lines following stonewalls. Among the photos is a shot of his grandfather, bowtie and suspenders, surrounded by sheep. We talk about how much the landscape has changed and move on to his glory days at Arms, war stories about making the All-Western Mass. Football Team, winning the Intercounty League title, punishing Deerfield High School on Veterans day, when Bunker Mazanec scored five touchdowns.

Randolph went on to play football and baseball as a Mount Hermon post-grad, then graduated from Williams (1959-62), where he also played football. He began his journalism career in 1967 as a reporter for the Brattleboro Reformer, then moved on to a brief stint at the Bennington Banner (1968-69) before founding the Vermont Sportsmen. That monthly hunting and fishing tabloid grew in circulation to more than 12,000 before he sold it in the early 1980s and took a job as Fly Fisherman magazine editor/publisher in 1982. Now 71 and retired, he’s living in Pennsylvania and spends his time fishing and freelance writing. When not globetrotting to the finest trout streams in the world, he often returns to his native turf to shoot the breeze with the cast of characters he grew up with, waking daily to a stunning view of faraway Monadnock on the eastern horizon.

Because we share overlapping eclectic  interests, our breakfast conversation jumped willy-nilly from squaretails and salmon to Shays’ Rebellion to Bradstreet to Kendall Mills to Pennell Hill and Pennell’s Tavern, then to the late Joe Jurek, a Colrain hunter who shot many trophy bucks on Randolph’s land. Randolph says no one ever gets the big one’s now that Jurek’s gone. He once took me on a walk to a swamp below his home, told me Jurek hunted it often because the big bucks were born there and returned when the shooting started. I made a mental note.

And to think Randolph’s love of fishing for trout, especially squaretails, all began on tiny Workman Brook, a mountain stream that traverses his
property and empties into the Green River a mile or two below, near the intersection of Green River and Nelson roads. Randolph learned to fish on that stream as a boy before honing his skills on the Green River, where he watched his first fly casters. It’s all chronicled in his 2002 book, “Becoming a Fly Fisher,” now the tale of a Franklin County legend, one whose name is included among American angling aristocrats, such men as Lefty Kreh, Ray Bergman, Zane Grey, “Catskill Bill Kelly,” “Sparse Gray Hackle” Miller, Ernest Schwiebert, Dave Whitlock and Lee Wulff.

John Randolph: Franklin County original, Hall-of-Famer.

Simple Diversions

The foliage is aflame, a chill’s in the air and woodstoves are belching smoke as white pines shed their long needles in blustery winds, depositing roadside mounds for mulch gatherers buttoning down their blueberry patches for winter. Yes, hunting season is upon us. Time to get my shotgun ready.

Actually, I’ve been at the chore since midday Saturday, when I returned home from the gunsmith with my favorite upland-bird-hunting gun, a petite Jean Breuil 16-gauge side-by-side made by skilled French craftsmen in Saint Etienne before World War II. Of the classic English straight-stock style, the quick-pointing double is a joy to carry, fast and effective, fits like a lambskin glove during reflexive mounts to my left shoulder. It’s that familiar raise, point, swing and fire; always ready to drop my forefinger onto the back trigger for long-range shots. Oh, how I love those double triggers, much quicker than the cumbersome modern barrel-selectors built into the safeties of single-trigger doubles. And it’ll all start Saturday, if I decide to brave the maddening opening-day crowds. But first I must focus on gun
preparation, waxing it over and over again, cleaning it, oiling it, labors of love.

I’m sure there are those who’ll argue that there are better ways to polish a sporting weapon. To heck with them. I’m locked in, a creature of habit who favors paste-wax protection. For me, it requires the application and buffing of several thin coats. It’s a tedious process that could be accomplished in a day, I suppose. But, for me, the routine takes many days.

My choice. I want to give the wax a chance to harden between applications, ultimately producing a hard protective sheen that brings luster to the wood and barrels, which glisten from afar like a diamond in dry, unruly, sun-splashed coverts, pollen dust tickling your nostrils, irritating your throat.

My choice of wax is Boston Polish, the same stuff I use on antique furniture and wooden floors. The white wax also works. Once a good base is down, a quick touch-up maintains the finish after a robust day afield, wet or dry, windy or calm, cold or warm. My waxing procedure can’t differ much from that of others. I use old, velvety cotton sheets, the softer the better, torn into 12-inch squares, folded in half, then half again. A pile of six rags rests underneath my wax can on a shelf above my interior cellar stairs. A seventh wax-saturated rag stays sealed inside the can.

Before I start polishing, I warm the can next to the woodstove for an hour or more to soften the application rag before spreading a thin coat over the entire gun. Then I stand the weapon against the wall for five or ten minutes to dry before polishing. Sometimes I leave the final coat on overnight, then buff it out in the morning and repeat the process several times during the day, increasing the shine and protection with each layer. Wax breaks down fast with hand contact or rain, but you can stay ahead of decomposition with due diligence.

Once the wax dries and the polishing begins, I start rubbing back and forth or up and down with the oldest, tackiest sheets, one in each hand, cleaning any accumulation of wax from grooves and crevices, blowing away any wax dust that may appear. Occasionally, I’ll even wrap the cloth around a straight screwdriver blade to lightly remove stubborn wax along the inner rib between the barrels. I begin step two of the three-step polishing process with the third and fourth cloths, softer and less tacky, then finish with the fifth and sixth buffing cloths, softer and cleaner still. At the end of each season, I throw out the application rag in the can and replace it with the tackiest of my six polishing cloths, replacing that cloth on the shelf with a fresh one from the pantry rag bag. It works for me, a routine perfected over the years, which are adding up fast.

Once my gun is polished to my satisfaction, I clean the inner barrels, dragging a freshly coated oil bob through on the final withdrawal. I then place tiny drops of oil here and there, working them into moving parts for protective lubrication. That final step will probably occur Friday night. Then the weapon will be ready for many joyful romps through gnarly autumn wetlands.

I’m finally supplied with appropriate shotgun shells as well. Two cases of 2½-inch No. 6’s and 7’s from RST Classic Shotshell Co. arrived at my door Tuesday night. I used to shoot Gamebores in my sweet 16 and have been searching for a suitable replacement ever since my Maine supplier went out of business several years ago. I discovered RSTs in the Ruffed Grouse Society’s quarterly magazine. I was pleased to find the Spring 2010 edition at Burlington, Vt.’s, Fletcher-Allen hospital. I figure the magazine was left there by a gentleman hunter from the cardiac-surgery team.

I do hope that unexpected discovery won’t be the only good news that comes my way out of Fletcher-Allen. Twenty-eight-year-old son Gary, father of two young boys, is still there, fighting for his life, slowly making gains in the ICU, recuperating from 17 brutal hours of complicated, Sept. 24 open-heart surgery gone bad. It was no one’s fault, just happened. They couldn’t stop the surgical bleeding, needed 40 units of blood, some arriving by emergency helicopter, a slice of horrible  luck. They say he’s now on a long road to recovery; too long and windy for me.

This medical family nightmare relegates my gun-polishing chores to minuscule indeed, a tiny pebble on the ocean floor. Call the gun work a welcome diversion, a distraction from a bleak, haunting reality. I’ve said it before and will say it again: There is no pain like reality. That, I have always believed. Now I’m living it, grappling with it, nowhere to run, nowhere to hide, reduced to a pitiful, bony tramp pleading for a whiff of Nature’s mercy. Lying to yourself does no good, just compounds matters.

I don’t intend to beg and weep and wail, or tear out my hair. And I will not pray.

For what? To whom?

No, I’ll just hope for the best, prepare for the worst, and pin foreboding gloom’s throat to my woodshed wall, maybe even extract a clear dab of pure optimism.

Why succumb to despair when hope is alive?

My faith is my son, his will to live and carry on.

Whispers and Roars

Although I stopped fishing many years ago, primarily because my schedule doesn’t permit it, I have not lost my love for running water — brooks and streams and rivers that in many ways symbolize life’s ebbs and flows and eddies, those random midstream pockets formed by natural obstacles disrupting the current and creating a calm, swirling refuge amid turbulent waters.

Haven’t we all taken shelter in such sanctuaries to avoid dangerous rapids or punishing winds? And what hip-booted trout hunter hasn’t caught plump fish at the backside of these gentle, foamy lairs, shaded by large, sturdy boulders. You visit them first from April to July, then during heavy summer rains that color the streams brown and make fish invisible? Those rains never came this year, not once to my recollection, and many small mountain spring brooks ran dry, according to those I’ve spoken to on both sides of the Connecticut River. One source, a cordwood vendor, took to feeding wild squaretails a month or so ago in a tiny stream near his Colrain home; found many dead, felt bad for them. Wouldn’t you think the fish would have migrated to a larger stream where they could ride out the drought? Yes, but some stuck around too long and got trapped in secluded tombs. I didn’t witness the sad sight with my own eyes but was told of it by more than one man. I believed what I was told, based on what I had seen of familiar streams.

Despite my fishing dormancy, I still often think of trout and the free-flowing streams they inhabit, my backyard brook a constant reminder. Named Hinsdale Brook after the family that built my fork-in-the-road tavern, it’s a Green River tributary whose centerline marks the northern boundary of my home lot. I stay in daily touch with the forces of nature by monitoring that stream’s flow, listening to its many voices. I watch it clog with ice in winter—distant gurgling muffled deep within—before melting into a roaring torrent with the first spring rains. It then settles down and drops to its dog-days trickle before refilling as the leaves burst into their brilliant fall glory, waltz to the ground and die. We are almost there now, the hunting season upon us, yet fishing did cross my mind. I thought of it the other day when the brook was audible through my kitchen window for the first time in months, rushing water sweeping away summer filth along the banks.

Prior to last week’s downpour, which deposited seven inches in my neighbor’s rain gauge, the backyard brook was down to a pitiful level, not enough to wash a cat in, never mind stock fish. Though it never completely dried up like some of its upland feeders, the brook was as low as I’ve seen it, similar to a southern Franklin County reservoir I’ve known for years and recently wrote about. It occurred to me as I listened to the rushing backyard stream from afar that it’s time for fall trout stocking, when our hatcheries annually unload surplus fish into rivers, lakes and ponds for the benefit of autumn anglers, potentially ice fishermen. My stream’s resurgent roar got me wondering if this year would be different due to budgetary constraints. Usually, by late September, some sort of fall-stocking announcement arrives in my inbox. Not this year; at least, not until a midday Tuesday e-mail hint from an old friend who had spotted a stocking truck in Conway. He later investigated and, lo and behold, pulled a couple of nice rainbows from a popular spot below a scenic bridge. Great timing; another 11th-hour reader’s tip to fill this space and satisfy the hunger of diehard anglers who enjoy fishing under flaming foliage and its muted reflection on smooth waters, the cool October air a perfect caffeine substitute.

I placed a call Wednesday morning to our Connecticut Valley District office in Belchertown, looking for confirmation that stocking was under way. Yes, the trucks have been rolling since last week, will finish soon. Local stocked waters include the Deerfield and Millers rivers, Lake Wyola in Shutesbury, Lake Mattawa in Orange, Laurel Lake in Erving and Warwick, Sheomet Pond in Warwick, Ashfield Lake, Upper Highland Lake in the Goshen State Forest, and Windsor Pond. For a list of all stocked waters, go to the MassWildlife website. Fall-stocked waters are underlined on the district-by-district lists.

This year, a total of 67,000 rainbow trout with an average length of more than 12 inches will be released statewide. The allotment is split evenly among the state’s five wildlife districts, including our Valley and Western, each of which received approximately 13,400 trout.

The two rainbows my friend caught Tuesday measured 14 and 18 inches. He was pleased. Me too. Once again, this weekly space got filled with a little help from a friend, this one a blast from the distant past. He’s been after me all summer, wants to show me his wooded Conway hunting camp. I’m anxious to see it. That time of year, my favorite.

Harvest time.

The Greatest Gift

I have for days been watching small, bright-yellow, black-walnut leaves falling to the neighbor’s lawn across the street as orange-tinged maple leaves waltz like airborne breast feathers to my backyard. Early? Yes. At least two weeks ahead of  last fall, which I remember well.

Premature crunchy leaves underfoot should come as no surprise. Hasn’t everything else since springtime been two weeks or more early? Why should foliage be different? Likely, by the time leaf-peepers clog our highways and byways for Columbus Day Weekend’s traditional “peak,” most of the maples will be nude, the oaks turning red and bronze, more typical of November. Such is life, a higher power finessing the strings, answering to no one, beyond our control.

North of here, on the road to Burlington, Vt., Route 89, the colors were advanced, actually nearing peak, though still short of it, muted, many soft yellows, some orange, little red. At least that’s what I recall. Maybe there was some red. Can’t remember. It was tough to focus on scenery. I was distracted, in an emotional fog, cranial wheels spinning, traveling on a serious matter, no joy ride, a family emergency that’s consumed and debilitated me. Twenty-eight-year-old son Gary II, father of two young boys, is fighting for his life following open-heart-surgery complications in Burlington, Vt. I didn’t think he was going to make it at 2 a.m. Saturday, blood pouring out of his chest-drainage tubes, life-support his only hope. His will to live is strong. I am now more confident. Still, all I can do is hope, a day at a time. He’s critical but stable, a long road to recovery, longer for him than me. For sure, life can be unfair. This is a salient example, medicine and nature’s mercy his bedside allies.

Nothing is so painful as reality. The courageous face it head on. Others curl into a pathetic, clammy, fetal ball: fear paralysis. Gary took it like a man. I’m proud of him. “Don’t cry,” he told his terrified lover as nurses wheeled him toward the double operating-room doors, “I’m going to come through this. I’m meditating, am focused, know what I’m facing, what I must do to survive.”

He did know, had been through open-heart surgery at age 15 to repair an aortic aneurysm. Before he passed through those O.R. doors at 7:30 a.m. Friday, he started to sing a song he wrote, one he has sung many times in coffeehouses from Montpelier to Burlington. I don’t know its name or lyrics, but I’ve heard him sing it, have even seen his 4-year-old son sing along, so I know the gist, “I love my family, I love my life,” repeated in the refrain. This from a young man who’s known good times and bad, sober and impaired, healthy and sick, happy and sad. Recent years had been productive and happy until this sledgehammer wallop from the heavens. Or was it hell? All I know is that it came out of nowhere. A sucker shot at the supper table. Intense chest and back pain. A registered nurse, he knew it was serious, probably a heart attack. He was wrong, though not far off.

What he, in fact, experienced was an aortic dissection, excruciating pain, could have burst at any moment and quickly flushed his life. No time for medics or ambulances. Miraculously, it didn’t happen. He made it to one hospital, then another, where they hooked him up to tubes and bags and monitors, stabilized him, and ultimately tried to heal him with medicine, buy time for inevitable surgery, potentially weeks, months, even years away. But no. The day before his expected release, a CAT Scan revealed that the aortic arc exiting his heart had bulged to a frightening diameter, requiring emergency surgery to repair it with a synthetic replacement.

All I can now do is hope. I don’t pray. Refuse. To whom? But that’s just me. I view life as a sequence of choices, some crucial, others trivial, all mine. In the old days, tragedy victims believed they were being punished for immoral actions by them or someone close to them, mischief an unforgiving God did not approve of. I have never accepted that. Not for a second. I cannot believe in a vindictive, hateful creator. If revenge is what God’s about, I would rather fight him, openly defy him, slug him in the mouth, beat him with a club, sit on his chest and pummel him into the bedrock. I want no part of anyone, man or myth, who’d inflict physical pain and suffering as a control mechanism. That’s why I have always preferred to remain a flock of one, picking my way through treacherous terrain, alone, alert, resolute, perceptive and reflective whenever my world spirals toward potential disaster.

I have faith that Gary will again play his guitar and sing a happy tune, maybe about beating tall odds, being independent, playing the game his way and winning. No annoying rules and regs, no boring, self-absorbed authority figure to spew tired slogans, prod him toward deeply trodden paths a blind man could follow. Some prefer to blaze their own trails, and pay the price. They, if any, are to me worthy of praise and worship.

Perhaps it’s a fault, but I drop to my knees in prayer for no one. It has many times been said that the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. Here, Gary is the fruit resting in high grass warming the roots like a bear’s dense winter coat. I believe we’ll beat this challenge, move on and thumb our noses at the genuflecters, the reciters, the jeweled choir singing others’ words in perfect harmony, more than willing to offer insulting pity to those who’ve lost their way.

I say to them, followers all: follow us if you dare. You may learn a lesson that isn’t etched in stone, taught in parables, memorized in hymn or prayer or patriotic pledge. Some prefer to write their own songs, cut fresh paths to old places, grooming profound borders along the way that sprout courage, intellect and independence. Such a route can bring confidence, humility, self-esteem, dignity and, above all, wisdom, the greatest of all gifts. Without it, life is dull and meaningless. Not worth living.

Not for Gary.

Woodland Waltz

My fourth cord of wood was piled high in the shed, air cool, morning sun bright … off to my favorite Whately stomping grounds. Eli Terry, rhythmic heartbeat ticking from his dining-room shelf, read 11 a.m.

My only worry was bear season. I didn’t want to get me or my dogs shot. But who’s going to shoot a man making no effort to conceal himself while walking through woods on abandoned roads, whistling frequently to a pair of robust Springer Spaniels? I guess I had no fears. Still, I’d stay alert, sharpen my senses.

The impetus for my impromptu journey was two recent conversations — one written in a string of e-mails with an old acquaintance and North Hatfield reader, the other an oral discussion at home with a distant Sanderson relative and Whately octogenarian. I had been thinking about the Whately woods lately, anyway, with the air cooling. So, when both conversations were focused there, I had to go, see what was happening. The time was right Tuesday, my woodshed chores complete.

I broke into Whately at White Birch Campgrounds and soon took a right toward Conway through what used to be known as Sanderson’s Glen, a beautiful, shaded woodland road through classic southern Franklin County hardwoods, acorns popping under my tires, beech, hickory and walnuts plentiful, woods bone dry. Up high, past a popular party spot for local school kids, a few trucks were scattered, likely hunters working woods known to hold a dense black bear population, especially this year with nuts so plentiful, fruits and berries, too.

When I got to the first T in the road, in Conway, I took a left onto a more populated dirt road, passing an ancient cemetery and a summer camp before winding my way down to a hollow, across a feeder stream and up a steep hill to South Part and the Stone Castle. There, I took a right at the fork headed toward a paved road a couple of miles away. At the intersection, I turned left and followed a large reservoir, eventually dropping down to an older one, where I caught many squaretails as a sneaky boy. After passing a quaint 19th century chapel, I took a right, crossed a bridge over the lower pond’s outflow and followed what was once known as Sanderson Brook, also Harvey Brook, along another dirt road. A short distance west, I banged a right onto a woodland trail, once a major road to Conway, now reduced to a rutty path through private, posted land; stunning landscape with stately hardwoods sporting faint fall colors along both sides of the road. On the ground lay tidy stonewalls, barn foundations and cellar holes, many of them, some possibly inhabited by murmuring ghosts reminiscing about the good old days, before speed traps, roadblocks, breathalyzers, lie detectors, sirens and flashing blue lights. Up the road a piece once stood the home of Isaac “Cider” Marsh, quite a distiller in his day; an intemperate one, at that. Why else would fellow distillers have called their 30-barrel tanks “Marsh’s tumblers?” Sounds like the man had a powerful thirst, not to mention high tolerance for his still-house spirits.

Anyway, I parked my truck along what’s left of the old Morton Sawmill, later Warner’s, and set the dogs loose. They burst into the woods, bounding, noses high, searching for scent. My only concern was hedgehogs, those spiky critters that seem to prefer cool, damp depressions like ours. Nothing can ruin a good day quite like a porky backed up against the base of a large hollowed out tree; dogs pestering it before retreating, shaking their heads, strange gait, flicking at their snouts with their front paws. Chalk it up as $175 to $200 a dog, maybe more. Never a good day. But there were no hedgehogs this day, just squirrels and crows and turkeys, many of them.

We got into the turkeys right after crossing the snowmobile bridge near my truck and climbing the road toward a hardwood flat. The dogs had already visited the brook under the bridge, where as a boy I witnessed many squaretails schooled up during their fall spawning runs; I don’t think they come anymore. Both dogs had been in the water, drank and laid in it before shaking off and running back up to me, timidly crossing the open-plank bridge and bursting up the hill. About halfway up the trail, the dogs lit up. I knew something was near, saw a turkey fly, then several others burst through the dense hardwood canopy to a distant ridge. Buddy and Lily pursued them a short distance and watched them disappear in the trees before returning to the area they had flushed from, searching for stragglers. There were none. The dogs had been efficient during their first sweep, scattering maybe 10 or 12 big birds, probably a pair of mature hens and their poults.

It’s tough to differentiate between young and old turkeys this time of year, because the little ones have nearly caught up in size with their mothers. They don’t weigh as much but appear by sight to be the same height. I whistled the dogs back to me and moved on, having already reached the hilltop flat with a specific route in mind, one I have walked many times, always enjoy, alone or with someone, gun or no gun.

We dropped into a hollow, climbed a little hill between stone walls and took a right turn around a fence and down a road that ends at the reservoir’s edge. That road likely once ran east to Whately Center but is now forever submerged under a city water supply, the impoundment as low as I’ve ever seen it. Well, not really. I do remember construction crews stripping that valley between two ridges. Remember it well. Viewed it as destruction of healthy woodland. But that’s just me. Many people today enjoy the clear spring water it provides, water I’ve heard and seen at the source, trickling out of a ledge on the north face of the forest’s highest peak, where few venture. I have been there many times, drank from nature’s dripping faucet while hunting big-woods whitetails.

Along the road dead-ending at the reservoir, I passed some deer droppings and also noticed tracks, old and new, along the shoreline. Last year on the same road, I found two or three buck scrapes and backtracked them west all the way to a brook and beyond. I never returned with a gun in my hand, but didn’t forget what I had seen, either. If no one shot that animal last year, it’ll likely scrape the same line again. I’ll check later, just out of curiosity. Never need much of an excuse to walk those woods.

I walked back up to the road I had started on and followed it a short distance north to a T, where we turned left toward the brook. The small, square cellar hole of Cider Marsh was on my left, the larger remains of the old Waite farm to my right. Down the road a bit, on the other side of a long, thick blackberry patch blocking the path, I noticed Lily rolling in something. Sure enough, fruity bear scat, light brown, slimy streaks of it smeared over her ear, neck and shoulder. Damn dog. Thank God she was riding home in the porta-kennel.

I shooed her off and walked past an old, broken stoneware jug and rusted metal gas can below a bow stand before arriving at a shaded brook pool slightly upstream from a decrepit wooden bridge swept aside many years ago by a spring flood. I sat on a large, moss-covered, brookside boulder, sandaled feet dangling in the water, beam of warm sunlight penetrating a small canopy window to comfort my mangled left knee. The dogs romped up the steep hill across from me, looking for something, anything, to chase. I soon whistled them back to avoid any “issues.” They responded by sprinting down the steep hill to me. When they entered the water to drink, lay down, I stood and grabbed Lily firmly by her filthy, stinking neck. There, I held her firmly in shin-high water while splashing off the scat. It would have been easier with a leash and companion, but the dog didn’t fight me and I cleaned her OK. Buddy stood nearby, watching inquisitively, wondering if he was next. White and clean, he was spared.

Chore complete, I washed my hands, wiped them off on the mossy stone and quick-stepped it back toward the truck, carefully skirting the bear scat by looping through the woods. When we finally got back onto the road, t’other side the berry patch, we again walked between the two stone-clad cellar holes, when my mind wandered off into vivid forest fantasy. I tried to picture what would have been happening had I passed 200 years ago. It probably would have been bustling with activity, and I surely would have stopped to chat with old Cider Marsh, cranking him up a bit, maybe Jones’n some of his finest brandy before savaging licensing agents or other authority figures, discussing neighborhood mischief, maybe even illicit neighborhood affairs. Yes, even then they happened. No doubt, Old Cider would have thrown in his two cents worth, too: the world according to Cider Marsh, scary thought these days.

The likes of Cider Marsh — hardy uplanders who vanished from these parts long ago, never to return — are now reduced to lingering woodland sprits, friendly souls who cleared, tamed and finally abandoned their farms after erosion washed away what little rich topsoil they had. Now a thin topsoil layer has returned to the forest floor after a century or more of leave decomposition. But Cider Marsh will not be back, nor will his neighbors. They’re history, their woods protected, never again to be inhabited by bipeds.

I descended the hill to the snowmobile bridge and arrived back at my truck, coaxing the dogs into their kennels, fastening them shut and re-entering the vehicle for the ride home. It had been a great day; short, sweet, solitary meandering. I will be back. Can’t help it. Those woods often beckon with seductive whispers in cool, southern, autumn winds. Call them ghost whispers, maybe even from Cider Marsh himself, who likely whet the whistle of more than one ancestor flowing through my veins.

It’s difficult for me to understand those who don’t know or care who they are or where they came from. I guess I’m fortunate in that respect; that and determined to discover more. Hopefully, my descendants, a great-grandson or granddaughter, will someday try to figure me out for posterity. What a twisted riddle that could turn out to be, even with a body of published work to follow. In the end, they may interpret it all wrong, or maybe right. One never knows. But who cares? The research is what matters most. Always alluring.

Not A Cougar

The call came shortly before1 p.m. Wednesday, me searching for something to top this space. It was from Deerfield, a man with whom I share many interests, the salient one being local history. But this was not a history call; he was calling about a handsome wildcat that’s been spotted many times this summer around Deerfield’s North Meadows. It didn’t catch me by surprise.

Fact is, I had heard about this cat a month or so ago. A friend called to tell me he’d seen photos and, in his opinion, it was obviously not a cougar, but he could understand how people could misidentify it as one. “Maybe that’s the explanation for all these local cougar sightings,” he speculated. “You’d have to see the pictures.”

My friend wanted to e-mail me the photos, which, for one reason or another, never arrived. Now, a few weeks later, I’ve finally viewed them from another source. My fresh Deerfield source showed them to me in his home office, in vivid living color. I concur with my friend: it is not a cougar. My most recent source begs to differ, doesn’t want to rule out the possibility that’s it’s a young cougar. I do not want to argue, just agree to disagree.

One of the two clear photos I studied shows the beautiful orange-brown cat lying across a large, thick blow-down tree, as if ready to pounce on something below; the other shows the cat sitting on the same log, alert and erect, hind quarters on the log, head and shoulders raised to about a 45-degree angle, supported by stiff, straight front legs. The animal has a few large, sparse, black spots across its lower ribcage, and the side profile of the head and ears does not to my eye match that of a cougar. The question in my mind upon viewing the photo was: Is this animal a bobcat or lynx?

My source will likely show the photos to a wildlife biologist who’ll give him a positive identification, one he may or may not accept. Unfortunately, the only indiscernible part of the cat in the photos is its tail, which is hidden behind the horizontal tree it’s laying and sitting on. The long tail of a cougar is its distinguishing feature from afar.

Although not visible, in my opinion, the photographed cat’s tail was a foot or less in length.

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