Who is it I Write For, Anyway?

Different strokes for different folks — a threadbare cliché pedantic editors caution against, a principle I generally agree with.

Clichés are indeed boring and unimaginative, a lazy-writer’s tool that should be avoided. But there are exceptions to every rule, and who would know that better than I, a rule-breaker from way back? So, given the spoken and written feedback I receive, the strokes-and-folks cliché fits like, ummm, kid gloves. Oooops, there I go again. Pedants beware: a rebel.

What’s bugging me is that from time to time in this space, I am presented with a dilemma when traipsing off the trodden path of hook & bullet writing. The question is: Who should I write for, endangered sportsmen seeking the nuts and bolts, or non-hunters who love the outdoors, history, local issues, or streamside gristmill ruins, thus prefer the more playful, imaginative stuff that sometimes appears here? It’s an issue I often ponder when wandering into introspection I know will annoy some in my hunting/fishing fraternity, those who think I should stick to stocking and harvest reports, fishing derbies and turkey shoots, heroic hunting tales. It’s the same crowd that screams I’m out of place as a gun-owner and outdoor writer to criticize the NRA or jump into a political fray t’other side of the reactionary red, white and blue nimrod majority threatened by extinction here in the upper Happy Valley.

Fact is that even in the hilltowns, once a bastion of hunting lore and tolerance, it’s not always cool to be a hunter anymore. Sad but true. And the people who find the change in public perception most revolting expect me to join their loud, obnoxious diatribe. Sorry, fellas, ain’t happenin’. I’m a gun-owner and hunter of a different fabric, one who believes strongly in the right to bear arms but hopes we can still find a way to co-exist with self-righteous gun-control crusaders. The way I look at it, we have a sacred 200-plus-year-old document supporting us regardless of what the antis say or do. That’s a fact, one that doesn’t figure to change anytime soon given the conservative makeup of our federal judiciary, overstuffed with lifetime Reagan, Bush and Shrub appointees. So, all I can say to my paranoid gun-toting detractors is that we’re all entitled to our opinions, me no less than the dittoheads who parrot Rush, Hannity, O’Reilly and Wayne LaPierre, and who insist their foes are un-American and unpatriotic, even Commies and pinkos, heaven forbid. Infamous Joe McCarthy, the angry Irishman from Wisconsin, must be rolling in his shameful grave, or is it sham-ful? Guess it depends who you’re talking to. You be the judge.

In this, an age when hunters are falling by the wayside faster than newspapers, only a fool would stick to the traditional ”accepted” way of penning an outdoors column. At least that’s my view. I base it on numerous forms of feedback, all of which seem to indicate that a good chunk of this paper’s readership is bored to sleep by hook & bullet fodder, preferring more creative, eclectic narrative. My goal is to satisfy both types of readers, a delicate balance.

It’s no secret that you can never please everyone in this business. I knew that when I started 30 long years ago. So why try? Instead, I’ll stick to my masochistic ways, going with the flow and taking my lumps from both sides.

One writes to be read, not agreed with.

Springers Love a Chase

An inch of brilliant virgin snow blanketed the turf, fog wafting, clinging to the turf, air damp and cold, misty rain falling as I pulled into Deerfield’s North Meadows with three energetic Springers boxed in the truck bed beneath the cap for their daily morning romp.

I knew the second I spotted waterfowl everywhere, literally thousands, down for the storm amid the corn stubble, that this day promised unexpected “entertainment” for me the observer.

I had an idea which of my three bird dogs would be most attracted to the flocks of geese and ducks of all kinds, but waited for it all to play out after releasing them from their porta-kennels. Sure enough, Bessie, 9-months old veteran of one bird season as an infant, was most attracted to the unusual phenomenon before her. With the wind at their backs as they exited the truck bed, I knew it would take a little while for the dogs to notice the waterfowl, and I figured the adults, Ringo and Lily, would pay little attention, which proved accurate. But Bessie, little Bessie, young Brown Bess, no sir, she wasn’t about to ignore them once heard the honking, saw them moving through the field. She was going to have a blast flushing them, along the way discovering sandpipers that were even more entertaining to chase through the snow and puddle lakes. And chase them she did, until there wasn’t one on the ground for a quarter-mile radius; barking, chasing, stopping on a dime and changing direction to flush those she had earlier ignored. What a scene. Great fun just watching the enthusiasm for the chase.

Yes, young Bessie’s a bird dog. It’s in her blood. And I can see fall will be fun watching here develop. This much I know: like her parents, there’s no quit in Bessie, which is not good news to a certain elderly man I often run into afield who doesn’t appreciate my presence in the coverts we both hunt.

My response to that is: Get used to it! I’ll be there long after he’s gone.

Bessie, too.

The way it is.

Spring Romance

I often tell anyone willing to listen that once I reach the top of the steep, mile-long hill behind my home, I consider myself to be in southern Vermont, even though the state line is actually 10 miles in the distance.

When you hop the crest of the hill up there, you’ve entered a pastoral Grandma Moses scene: green rolling meadows and corn stubble; pungent cow manure; sugarbush and mature hardwood forest; white, timber-framed farmhouses with country-red barns; brick one-room schoolhouse and a few surviving neighbors who attended it.

It’s so peaceful to creep along those upland roads, fine-tuning you peripheral vision to catch the wildlife secreted along the edge of a pasture or standing motionless in the budding woods. Soul-soothing, in fact, particularly around sun-up.

On a pleasant early morning a couple of weekends ago, I bought the Sunday newspapers and a large coffee at the mini-mart a couple miles down the road, passed my sleeping home and snuck to the top of the hill to see what I could find. I was most interested in turkeys for obvious reasons, but would have been happy to see a deer or bear, coyote or fox, hey, even a load-mouth red squirrel racing across the road would be OK. And even if there were no wildlife sightings, just the scenery and cool morning air would satisfy.

I swung up through Graves’ Glen, Peckville and East Colrain on this particular a.m. diversion, scanning the landscape for a big tom turkey strutting for an admiring harem, but found none. No deer or bear or other noteworthy creatures, either, by the time I had completed a wide circle back to the crest of the hill where I started.

I dropped the truck into second gear and started to descend the steep hill back home when I spotted a graceful bird that appeared to be a ruffed grouse walking across the road near my personal deer-season parking place. As I drew closer I was able to make a positive identification. Sure enough, a partridge, and behind it another, acting in a peculiar manner. Seemed to have no fear of my approaching white truck. In fact, it seemed to be challenging me for the road.

When I got right on top of the little game bird, I knew why he was paying little attention to the imminent danger confronting him in the middle of the country road. Other, more important, matters on his mind. The first bird that had crossed the road into the woodlot was his springtime mate, and he was in full strut, like a miniature tom turkey — tail fanned, breast and neck feathers fluffed. A beautiful sight, and rare indeed.

The lovesick feathered creature stopped a couple of times to perform his courting ritual before scooting into the woods after his mate.

With the elegant springtime lovers in my rear-view and my home approaching at the base of the hill, it had been a worthwhile trip. Short and sweet as sugar-maple blood.

Backyard Bliss

A couple of wildlife incidents to report from the home front, one involving a bear
related to a bigger story, the other an otherwise insignificant little skunk.

First the bear, which appeared out of nowhere in my back yard on the gray
evening of Aug. 16, just before 8:30, me in the shower, my wife watching TV. It must have been movement that drew her attention from the TV and into the backyard alcove near a quite table, umbrella and chairs where, lo and behold, stood a big black bear, up close and personal. My wife says the animal stood on all four feet higher than the table at the shoulders and was silky black with a brown nose, “just like you see in the pictures,” a wonderful sight.

I too had caught black movement through the same windows on my way around the corner to the shower but didn’t investigate, assuming it was female barn cat Blackie scooting from the barn cellar to the woodshed, a common sight from the skittish animal my adult kids describe as “sketch.” I was already in the shower when my wife entered the bathroom excitedly announcing the presence of the bear right out the window. The bear had disappeared by the time I exited the shower stall to investigate. She said it had heard her talking to me, met eyes through the window some 10 feet away and sauntered off toward the brook in no great hurry. I would characterize her as in awe following her first close encounter with a bear, one many folks live an lifetime without experiencing, and I had no reason to doubt her, given the black streak had earlier ignored and the aggressive
barks emanating from my backyard kennel along the brook it had crossed to depart.

Because it was alone, I figured it was probably a male, or boar, that had been drawn to the yard by the ripe front-yard apple tree that has never in my 12 years on-site been so productive. I also was near certain my assessment would be proven in the morning by damage to the tree. Hungry bears have a tendency to break large branches from apple trees when feeding, and I assumed I’d find such “pruning” the following morning. Well, it didn’t exactly happen as expected, no morning apple-tree damage, but after midnight there was indeed a large limb down as I pulled into my driveway from work. Since then, no sign of the bear and no reports from neighbors, so I guess it
was just passing though. Then again, it may return for future pruning of my apple tree and those of my neighbors before all is said and done. Time will tell.

On the night of the sighting, I will admit I was a little concerned for my dogs, and I checked them a few times to make sure there had been no bear attack. Although I have heard of bears attacking backyard dogs one way or another contained, I didn’t expect it to
play out in my yard, thinking it a long shot that the bear would bother two adult dogs inside a chain-link kennel seven feet high. And indeed nothing of the sort occurred. Then, early this week I gained perspective during a telephone conversation with an East Colrain neighbor and distant relative who I suspected had experienced many encounters with backyard bear-dog encounters. Confirming my suspicion, he said his dog often chases bears from his yard, and that the bears flee, sometimes treeing to get out of harm’s way. He told of one occasion, with guests visiting and a bear treed, the curious visitors went
into the backyard to observe the bear closer. After a short while, the big animal objected to the gawkers and descended the tree trunk to the ground, where the dog took after it, nipping at its heels to disapproving grunts. Even then, the bear never turned to confront
the dog. On another occasion, the same dog returned home from a ride with the man’s late wife and, as they approached their driveway parking place, sure enough, a bear stood at the corner of their barn. When the woman let the dog out of her car it immediately chased the bear, and they both sprinted halfway across a field before the bear stopped,
wheeled around and froze, face to face with it’s pursuer. They appeared to touch noses momentarily, briefly sniffing at each other before turning and trotting off in opposite directions, the bear toward the woods, the dog homeward.

So I guess it’s not impossible that a local black bear would attack or even eat a dog, but it appears unlikely, even though I’m sure there are those who’ll read this and
beg to differ. Either way, a general rule of thumb regarding bears is that they’re nothing for man or beast to fool with. If you don’t believe it, try it, and be prepared to suffer the consequences.

That leads me to the aforementioned “related bigger story” concerning bears, specifically the opening of the split, 25-day Massachusetts hunting season on Tuesday. The September segment provides 17 days during the heaviest foraging period for bears, when wild fruits, nuts and berries become plentiful, and cornfields ripen. Orchard growers and dairy farmers alike look forward to hunters’ assistance in removing troublesome bears that cut into their profits and time. The second segment of the season
provides 18 days between Nov. 2 and Nov. 22, when bears are still out there for the taking but can be more difficult for hunters to pattern. Expect about 150 bears to fall this year, most of them during September, when hunters will post well-worn trails leading to and from orchards and cornfields. Those who prefer avoidance of agricultural acreage locate productive nut groves and berry patches frequented by hungry bears, which love hickory nuts, beechnuts, walnuts and acorns.

As for the skunk on the home front, well, there’s actually more than one, and I’ve been aware of their presence for months, usually around my sheds, barn and outdoor cat-feeding stations. First there were two adults, then two little ones my wife once snapped close-up digital photos of standing two abreast atop the Iams cat foot in rusted, No. 9 Griswold skillet on my porch. I promptly moved the feeding station to the shed, where it took the skunks little time to find it, so I relocated it to the backyard woodshed, which they quickly found. My chief concern about skunks is that they’ll spray my dogs, not the worst thing that can happen but not enjoyable, either. So, I had been both cognizant and capable of keeping my Springers away from the stink bombs until Sunday at halftime of the Patriots’ preseason loss to the Eagles.

Just before dark I went to the barn, released little Bessie from the box stall where I had fed her, reached for her empty dish I intended to put away and heard a hiss and commotion that sounded like a harmless cat confrontation, then a scampering dog’s nails on the barn floor. When I broke through the threshold of the stables into the main runway, Bessie was sneezing and rubbing her face frantically with her paws as the young skunk waddled right past me, within kicking distance, and into the stable, where it hid. I wasn’t expecting it in the barn and I got burnt before I knew what hit me. It was Bessie’s first introduction to a skunk, and she didn’t enjoy it one bit, a direct hit to the face. She vomited a small pile of Iams pellets at the back door before exiting to the backyard and furiously scraping her head and shoulders on the lawn, trying unsuccessfully to remove the skunk’s spicy spray. She soon got over it, sort of, and Lily and Ringo knew exactly what had happened as soon as they got whiff of her, running excitedly to find the culprit before I called them off.

Ringy’s an old veteran of skunk attacks. He too took a direct hit the first time, but never again. He has never stopped pestering skunks but has learned to sidestep the mother load, taking only a light dose. I suspect his daughter will soon acquire the same skill. In fact, it wouldn’t surprise me if she already has it down. I have faith in Little Bessie. She exhibits intelligence and enthusiasm, two admirable traits in a bird dog, qualities she’ll soon get to display in the field.

That’s about all I’ve got for now … life and times from the Meadows … tavern fare.

To Each His Own

The Magnolia sisters, Star and Saucer, white and pink, have opened their furry fists to reach for the warm April sun, mimicked by cousins Daffodil and Forsythia, who introduce radiant yellows to brighten the days. Never appears a surer sign that spring turkey season is here.

I happened upon a boss gobbler and four deer feeding in a secluded pasture just yesterday, which bodes well for Monday’s opening morning. If a boss gobbler’s alone in a field today, there’s a good chance he’ll be vulnerable tomorrow; at least that’s how I see it, and I know that from experience. So things are looking up. Very positive for now.

It’s after the big boys have gathered their hen harems that they’re difficult to call to the gun, and for good reason. Look at it this way: If you’re sitting poolside at the Sheraton Tara entertaining a tableful of frisky lady suitemates, are you going to wander to the bar looking for more? Not likely, and the same can be said for the average boss gobbler. Why bother?

Anyway, I can tell you I’m looking forward to Monday morning. In fact, I’m feeling confident if the conditions are right. But everything can change quickly if other hunters invade your spot. Then it becomes a crapshoot, one that seldom works out for anyone.

But I’ll be there, before light, hour or two of sleep, buddy by my side, walking to a massive red pine just inside the woods line that’s been good to us in the past.

After I’ve unpacked three or four box calls, an equal mix of slates, glass and strikers, and moistened up my Quaker Boy Pro-Triple mouth call, we’ll be ready for action. Maybe I’ll owl-hoot, maybe not, depends on my mood, but you can be sure it won’t be long before I emit my first series of soft clucks and yelps, trying to simulate early morning tree talk. Then, once the first gobble bellows from a tree, the game is on. Maybe I’ll be aggressive, perhaps play hard to get. Could be easy, maybe difficult, but it will be fun, that’s for sure, and entertaining.

If we get one, fine; two, better. If unsuccessful, we’ll be back the next day, weather permitting, and the day after that, until we score. We may even change spots along the way, playing it by ear.

On the way home each day, we’ll scout the fields, pick some fiddleheads and shoot the breeze. Free and easy, sleep-deprived and exhilarated, my twisted concept of springtime bliss.

You know what they say: to each his own.

Something’s Gotta Go

I enjoyed a brief visit Tuesday from reader Edward M. Wells, an ardent defender of wild brook trout and critic of the Connecticut River Atlantic salmon program who’s been once featured and occasionally mentioned in this space. The retired educator, enjoying tranquil retirement on a gentle Leyden hillside, brought me a reading assignment in the August edition of Smithsonian magazine, then cleared up a misunderstanding that led to inaccurate information published here.

First the correction.

I have in the past identified Mr. Well as a Buckland native who’s familiar with native brookie streams in our western Franklin hills. Well, it turns out he is not a Buckland native. He grew up in suburban Boston and often visited his Buckland grandparents’ farm. It was during those visits that he learned to love his ancestral landscape.

“I do know the country from those years at Grandma Wells’ farm,” he said, “but I thought you should know I did not grow up there.”

Glad we cleared that up.

The article he wanted me to read, titled “Fish Story,” is about new ways of thinking about trout conservation, particularly in the West, where in many places restoration efforts favor habitat improvement over hatchery stocking.

Western restoration officials have found that they can bring back self-sustaining native trout streams by keeping livestock off the banks and manicuring streamside landscapes composed of lush vegetation and large shade trees which keep the waters cool in the heat of summer. The emphasis is on what the biologists call the “four C’s approach,” that is the creation of clear, cold, clean and connected waters that stimulate native trout reproduction. In areas where this approach was taken and pockets of catch-and-release areas were established, stocking has been stopped and fishing has improved.

The reason Mr. Wells thought of me when reading the Smithsonian piece was that it opens by describing the devastating effect stocking of nonnative species can have on the indigenous fish of streams they’re placed in. This controversy started in the late 19th century when German brown trout were stocked into North American waters, then raged onward with the introduction of Western rainbows in the East and Eastern brook trout in the West. The critics claimed that these foreign invaders threatened the very survival of indigenous species by competing for the same foods and prime lairs in their aquatic ecosystem.

Now Wells and others complain that the hatchery-raised, Connecticut River-strain Atlantic salmon progeny stocked into our hilltown streams are major contributors to the publicized Eastern brook trout decline. It’s not the first time our brookie population has been seriously threatened. The cold-water species faced big problems when 75 to 80 percent of our wooded hillsides were denuded, warming the cool, shaded mountain streams while bringing in herds of cattle that trampled and polluted the banks. Twentieth-century reforestation solved some of those issues, but now we’re dealing with global warming, acid rain and a stubborn salmon-restoration effort on life-support.

Something’s gotta go.

Walking the Dogs

As you look southeast over a sea of tall green grass funneling down to a stately hardwood frame, the Mt. Toby range protrudes from afar with distinction, like a giant molar dwarfing lesser teeth on the lower gum of a worn mouth.

Between Toby and me is downtown Greenfield, then the Pocumtuck Range, which rises in east Deerfield, climbs to the communication towers overlooking the Eaglebrook School ski slopes and descends slowly south, dipping twice to introduce the two Sugarloafs, once my childhood playground. In Native American lore, I’d be looking at the giant beaver from the tail forward.

Behind Toby stands the Holyoke Mountain Range and proud Mount Holyoke itself, the summit of which has for parts of three centuries drawn artists, most notably Thomas Cole, whose 1836 masterpiece canvas titled “View from Mount Holyoke, Northampton, Massachusetts, after a Thunderstorm (The Oxbow)” resides at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Had Cole known of this bucolic East Colrain location, he surely would have set up his easel on a promontory point during foliage peak-week; and perhaps he or someone else did compose this pastoral scene, although I have seen no such canvas.

As I stand there admiring this splendid view that never gets old, I hear panting and see flashes of white bounding over and slicing through the knee-high cover crop of rye and clover — two energetic English springer spaniels, one old, the other young, thoroughly enjoying the scent of cottontail rabbits, wild turkeys, deer, bear, squirrels, and other upland creatures on a cool damp morning. A springer’s energy is boundless, its enthusiasm infectious when scouring the field as though faced with a tight deadline.

Little Lily, a mere 14 weeks old, can’t keep up with here surrogate father, Ringo, an old pro by now, but she gives it her best shot, trailing him as far as she dares before losing ground, not to mention stamina, and sprinting back to me. It gets worse for the little lady when we reach the more-challenging high cover of golden rod made denser by a thick clover underbody, no walk in the park of any dog, especially a puppy. But Lily does her best, following the path Ringo cuts, stopping to sit and monitor his movement with her ears and bounding to try and cut him off before sprinting back to me. When she busts through the cover onto the cart path where I’m standing, she comes to greet me, wagging her tail joyfully, then sits and listens for Ringo, waits for him to get close, and scoots after him, repeating this playful ritual until we depart.

The only break the dogs take on such a walk occurs when Ringo finds a brook or mud-puddle to lay in and drink until you’d think he’d burst, as Lily stands nearby, front feet half-submerged, nibbling at the water’s surface. Don’t worry, it’s only a matter of time before she’ll be lying in the water next to him, not to mention blowing by him in the field, but it won’t be this year. Uh-uh. Not with 7-year-old Ringo in his prime.

You can’t beat the month of August for walking the dogs; it prepares your legs and theirs for the coming bird season while absorbing the sights and sounds of the habitat. You can assess the mast crop, hard and soft, read the deer and bear sign, flush turkeys and partridge, and work on dog commands in a non-threatening way while filling your lungs with invigorating country air. If the animals find something foul or rancid to roll in, no problem, just gives you an excuse to sample the refreshing water of a secluded Green River pool where, in a pinch, clothes have always been optional.

In the two months since little Lily has joined the family, I’ve toured the upland meadows near my home twice a day, rain or shine, and have seen many interesting sights that reinforce previous lessons about deer. The most memorable day so far came while walking loudly through an overgrown pasture at midday and jumping a velvet 6-pointer from a narrow row of wild apple trees I’ve passed several times on the way back to my vehicle during, gun in hand, deer season? Had it not been for an inquisitive Lily, that buck would have let us pass right by it, some 30 feet away, while I was whistling and calling Ringo off a rabbit chase. But Lily caught my attention because of the way she was standing still, semi-cowering with her nose high and pointed toward the row of apples and thick, thorny underbrush. Having seen her react similarly to cows and horses on previous walks, I was curious, so I walked toward her and spooked the buck into springing from its bed, bounding gracefully across the pasture and disappeared into the pines.

Another day in a nearby overgrown pasture bordering a lush mowing, I arrived at a high spot with Lily and was searching the golden-rod across the way for Ringo when I noticed a flash of white, then another. I first believed I had located the dog but the motion wasn’t right. Then I realized I was watching at deer, head down, trying to conceal itself as it left the premises. But when it understood that I had seen it, it picked its head up erect and bounded through the field, over a barbed-wire fence, across the mowing and into the dense vegetation of a power line — a beautiful sight to behold, a doe, perhaps 110 pounds.

After the deer disappeared, I got to thinking that if its primary goal was to elude me without being detected, it wouldn’t have been flagging furtively in the brush. The flicking of the tail had to be a signal to her fawns, which were presumably nearby. So I called, Ringo, vacated the area with my two pets and returned home.

After dinner, I convinced my wife to return to the site and walk the dogs. As we approached the farm road into the mowing, I spotted the doe feeding at the edge of the power line, some 400 yards away, and pointed it out to my wife. I told her I couldn’t understand why she was alone, that a healthy doe like her should have had at least one fawn with her. Perhaps they were victims of the first haying, I surmised out loud. But judging from the behavior of the animal when I had kicked it out of the golden rod earlier in the day, I was still convinced it hadn’t been alone.

As we retraced my steps from earlier in the day, Ringo and Lily romped through an unmowed wedge of high, wet, brown cover we were following toward the overgrown pasture that was my destination. Talking with my wife while focusing my attention across the mowing to where the doe was feeding, I paid little attention to the dogs until reaching a break in the rusted barbed-wire fence, by which time Lily had rejoined us. The three of us crossed the fence and walked to the high spot from which I had seen the doe earlier. The feeding doe would have been visible from that spot had she not ducked into the power line to conceal herself. But as I scanned the edge of the woods for her, I caught a flash in my left peripheral, then spotted a small deer that had exited the wet wedge of high cover we had just passed and was bounding across the rich green mowing. Ringo stood alert and statuesque at the side of the wedge, joining us in our admiration of the fleeing fawn, which quickly vanished into the power line.

The four of us circled the field’s perimeter back to the truck and left for home, wondering what tomorrow would bring, walking the uplands.

Building Bridges

Colrain historian Muriel Russell put a bug in my ear this week about a subject she knows I’m fond of, that being my third great-grandfather, Asaph Willis Snow, a carriage-maker who farmed some 350 acres surrounding the old Fort Lucas site of French & Indian War fame.

Russell, a phone pal with whom I share many local interests, knows of my fascination with Snow/Miller ancestors who lived and worked the acreage between the East Colrain burial grounds at the Brick School and Chandler Hill. So she shared her latest discovery of old A.W.’s connection to the Willis Bridge, spanning the North River in a location aptly named Willis Place.

So what, you ask, does this have to do with fish or wildlife? Well, let’s just say there are trout in the rapid stream below, and wildlife is never far in Colrain. Case closed.

Back to Russell, though, she’s now researching, among other things, enterprising Daniel Willis, who emigrated from Sudbury to Colrain in 1794 to establish a woolen mill. A generation later, the man built a charming Federal mansion house of brick, one that came to be known in townie lingo as ”Willis’ Folly,” suggesting he overspent. The stately building, a circa 1820 statement to Willis’ prosperity, still stands on the North’s southern bank, just downstream from the millpond and dam that once powered his primitive machinery. Right beside the Asher Benjamin dwelling is a river-crossing that’s existed for centuries in different forms, the pinnacle of which was a covered bridge likely built during the third quarter of the 19th century. All that remains today of that West County landmark are sepia-toned photos, reminders of the Willis Covered Bridge built by skilled local hands.

According to 1859-60 Colrain documents Russell recently uncovered, titled ”Rebuilding the Willis Bridge,” A.W. Snow was the chief laborer, earning $58.55 of the total $182.11 expenditure. That 32 percent share of the outlay was paid for labor ($55.50) and materials ($3.05 for paint, oil and nails). Iron worker Luther Graves earned the next largest portion, receiving $35.88 for his services, while Snow’s brother-in-law neighbor Hugh Bolton Miller was paid $12.10 for timbers. Two years later, 1861-62 town records reveal that Snow was paid $20 for additional bridge work. Because the records do not itemize specific chores, Russell is unsure whether the site’s first covered bridge was being built or if it was an open plank-bridge that was later covered. Historically, it could have been either.

It is unclear what covered bridge was America’s first, but it is known the first one appeared around 1805. Timothy Palmer (1751-1821), a New Englander from Newburyport, had a hand in most of the early covered bridges in the Northeast. I have seen him described as a millwright, master carpenter, architect and engineer, so call him what you choose but he was definitely our top bridge-builder of the day and is generally credited with designing the template for America’s first covered bridges. Palmer’s open-timber truss bridge in Amesbury was built in 1792 and “weather-boarded” in 1810 to become Massachusetts’ first covered bridge.

Although covered bridges appeared in western Massachusetts a generation before 1860, Russell has found that most of Colrain’s bridges were covered between 1870-1890, lending credence to a later date at Willis Place. But when you consider that a skilled laborer brought home less than $10 a week in 1860, the expenditure for the Willis Bridge suggests it could have been covered at that time. Subsequent research may soon prove a later date, but it’s not out of the question that A.W. Snow built Colrain’s first covered bridge around 1860 at Willis Place.

It is written that Snow followed his father, Colonel David Snow of Heath, into the carpentry trade, and there is no reason to doubt it. His father was a prolific builder in Heath and Charlemont during the first three decades of the 19th century, with the Heath Congregational Church (1833) and Community Hall (1834) among his major accomplishments. He apprenticed under John Ames, builder of the Ashfield Congregational Church, and probably introduced son Asaph to his trade at a young age. Russell’s recent discovery makes it clear that, despite specializing as a carriage-maker/wheelwright beginning in the late 1820s in Colrain Center, A.W. Snow never forgot his father’s tutelage in structural design. This revelation begs the question of how many dwellings, barns and sheds he helped construct during 50-plus years residing on three contiguous East Colrain farms he at one time or another owned, not to mention abutting properties owned by in-laws. And you have to wonder how often his dad assisted? Better still, how many chests of drawers, tables and stands scattered about this county were made by the two Snow joiners? It’s anyone’s guess, but there must be some. Didn’t all rural carpenters of that period dabble in ”country” furniture?

There are, of course, several peripheral mysteries borne of Russell’s recent findings: questions about the woolen industry, the relationship between fullers and carders and clothiers, the woolen-industry genesis in New England and Colrain. And how about Daniel Willis? What pulled him to our western hills, North River and the woolen industry? How did he meet wife Martha Snow, Asaph’s aunt, David’s sister? Was it through brother-in-law clothier Jacob Snow of Heath, Col. David’s older brother? Had the two clothiers crossed paths before moving here? If so, how, considering one came from Sudbury, the other Wilton, N.H.? Fascinating stuff, fertile ground for succulent historical fruit.

Enough! … But, please, before I go, a little tease.

Suppose I were to suggest that David Snow, a virtual stranger to me upon moving to Greenfield in 1997, built the second-story, spring-floor ballroom that spans the wing of my historic Greenfield tavern. Being one of less than a handful of local joiners capable of building such a hall in the 1830s, it’s eminently possible. But there’s more. The man who paid for this ”grand improvement” to an existing structure was from Charlemont and clearly would have, at the very least, known of Snow’s expertise as a builder. Not only that but he purchased from the Charlemont quarry enough flagstone flooring for simultaneous porch construction. If willing to transport cumbersome stone by oxcart from the place he was leaving, isn’t it likely he’d also employ familiar builders? It makes sense.

So, the deeper I dig, the more probable it becomes that the spirit of my fourth-great-grandfather permeates the place I call home. Tell me, please: if true, could it be coincidence? Happenstance? A fluke? Personally, I find that hard to believe.

I sense it’s more profound, which is as spiritual as I get. But that’s enough for now; perhaps even a step too far. Chalk it up as playful pondering — tavern fare, a little out of the ordinary.

I too build bridges.

Spring Chapel

What drew my attention was the salient, bright red head bobbing through the faint putty-green April pasture, a mature tom, beard dangling like a pendulum, as he approached a thin brush line skirting a spring-fed pond. Ahead of him were five or six drab hens, walking alertly, heads high, some dropping to feed.

Early spring on the hillside.

I wouldn’t have noticed the small midmorning flock had I not let my eyes wander momentarily off the left side of the road to that pasture where I often see stuff. In fact, having seen my first turkey, a solitary hen, walking through an oak stand the previous day, perhaps a quarter-mile up the road, I was looking for turkeys, but wasn’t ruling out deer, a moose, maybe even a cougar if I was lucky, all of which have been seen there by my or others’ eyes in recent years. Never hurts to know what’s lurking in the neighborhood.

At the base of the hill I pulled into my garage, exited the truck, walked my dogs to the kennel and headed for the house. Upon walking through the parlor door, I went immediately to the phone sitting on a mahogany Pembroke table, picked up the receiver and dialed my hunting buddy. Had to report the sighting to the man who had just asked me what I was seeing for turkeys. “Nothing” I had told him then. But that was a few days earlier. The times they were a changin’.

“Isn’t it funny how their pattern changes with the seasons,” he said after I told what I had seen. “You don’t see a turkey up there all winter and, bingo! there they are come spring.”

More curious to me was the timing. What I had seen was more indicative of later spring, when mature gobblers have assembled and are guarding their mating harems. Seemed a little early for that to me. But if you think of it from a gobbler’s perspective, I suppose it’s never too early. He isn’t breeding them yet, just tailing them, staying in touch till the time is right. Then he and other dominant toms will stake out their territory, hoard their harems and scare off all competing suitors with ferocious gobbles and slashing spurs.

Be it known there’s never a better time to wake with the woods than during the gobbling season, when mature toms shake the budding, skeletal hardwoods with their throaty roars, then fly down to strut zones where they entertain their ladies with a robust mating dance.

Nature’s springtime chapel.

Family Ties

I spent a nice evening last week with about 25 members of the Whately Historical Society, people who share my interest in old homes, old barns, old taverns and old relics from a kinder day.

Among my guests was the new owner of a home where my displaced ancestors once lived briefly after a July 1882 fire leveled the original East Whately Sanderson farmstead, and another who owned a colonial where I spent many special days and nights smitten with puppy love in an edifice infected with kindred spirits. Back then, I had no idea Asa Sanderson had called the place home after serving in the Revolution, and knew nothing of his big brother, my fifth great-grandfather Deacon Thomas, who likely taught Asa his tanner/cordwainer trade. But those were the years of my wayward teens, when I knew not who I was or why I lived here. I guess you’d call it oblivious, maybe oblivion itself, but all that has changed now, and so has my perspective.

I have written before about my spiritual attachment to the Whately woods. The aristocratic hardwoods, dark hemlock bogs, cellar holes, stonewalls, and streamside mill sites reach back to a different day in our landscape’s evolution. Such elements are not unique to Whately. You can find them throughout the Franklin hills. I’m just more familiar with Whately’s hills and dales than those in neighboring towns. That’s all.

I suppose if I chose to take the shallow exploratory route, I’d attribute my Whately enchantment to simple coincidence — the fact that Babe Manson had taught me to trout-fish there as a young boy, then meeting classmates and teammates whose yards bordered the swift, clean mountain stream. But I know my attachment goes much deeper; right to the core of my soul, the pulse in my wrist, to my pedigree. It’s no revelation. I understood it long ago. No churchgoer, it’s as spiritual as I get, but it’s real; more genuine than anything you can find below the austere white steeple; more powerful; impossible to articulate in a brief sitting.

My latest discovery came the day after our historical gathering, when, on the phone, Fred Bardwell pulled me deeper into my Whately genealogical morass; with each step forward, the blacker the mud, the stronger the suction. It can consume you like whirlpool, this family muck; no, not the Great Swamp, but no less unforgiving.

It was in the process of thanking Fred for the tote bag his club had given me that I digressed, started talking about the Whately woods, its abandoned roads, Chibby’s Pasture, the old mill site by the brook, the hidden well below the broad, forgotten hilltop orchard.

Did he remember Sanderson’s pasture before the woods consumed it?

Of course, he used to milk cows up there as a boy; it was where they pastured them in the summer.

How about Turkey Hill? Did he know it?

No, only Turkey Hill in Williamsburg.

So I described my perception of where Turkey Hill was, based on what little information I have uncovered, and he knew the area but no hill by that name, which doesn’t mean I’m wrong. In describing the location, I mentioned a road and a couple of cellar holes, which he knew as the old Sanderson farm, right there before the top of the hill.

Sanderson farm? What Sanderson farm?

It would have been Neal and Alan’s grandfather’s.

How about them, would they remember it?

No, burned down before that. But that’s where their grandfather lived. The woods opened up as you reached the top of that first rise. The pasture started there.

Did he remember the sugar shack, the one with the potbelly stove, where we used to party before Vietnam draft-dodgers took residence, overheated the stove and burned the shack to the ground?

He didn’t. Neal would.

When I called Neal Sanderson, wife Julie, family historian, answered and we got to talking. Did she know about the Sanderson farm up by Turkey Hill?

Turkey Hill?

She didn’t know it by that name, either. Apparently few do anymore. But she knew the road and cellar holes because her son used to hunt there. She confirmed it had been Neal’s grandfather’s farm, adding that a close relative lived nearby, a milkman. His house also burned to the ground, him in it. Julie said that sometimes when she rides the Whately roads with Neal he points to a woodlot and marvels how difficult it is for even him to imagine he once harvested hay there.

After hanging up, I had to talk to somebody. I called my hunting buddy, the one who had been to Turkey Hill this past spring during, you guessed it, turkey season. I told him what I had just learned, that the cellar holes and the party shack I’d pointed out so many times had gained new personal significance. No wonder those woods are special to me. Kindred spirits. I knew they were there, could feel them.

His reaction was nearly as powerful as mine. He said if he was me he’d put the old-timers in his truck and take them for a ride. Get a feel for the way it used to be before the forest returned. Write it down. Record it.

Sounds like a marvelous idea; essential, in fact, because when memories evaporate they leave no stone-clad craters for posterity, just blithe spirits in a cold, blustery wind.

I know. They whisper in my ear.

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