River Ramble

Yes, the brook’s roaring, the songbirds’re singing, the snowbanks’re shrinking, and my last load of cordwood’s drying ever so slowly, stacked under the eaves of the sunny carriage sheds. No, it isn’t time for stream-fishing here in the northern tier of Franklin County. Too much snow, way too much, in fact; even worse, annoying mud to follow.

Yee-uck!

But still, before you know it, stocking trucks will be rolling on our roadways. Trust me. And what a welcome sight they’ll be for everyone, especially anglers, who in better days could, in print, be called fishermen. There is a difference between fishermen and anglers, you know, but I guess your DOB would have to fall before 1980 to understand it. Sad but true. That from an understander, sorta like a decider, if you know what I mean.

The stocking has already started south of here, where the snow disappeared weeks ago, as unimaginable as that may seem to snowbound hilltowners. But it’s fact. Travel the valley Interstate and you’ll find the snowline following the Whately/Hatfield line. South of there it’s gone, very April like. But not here, where winter is lingering like a slobbering drunkard at an open-bar bash. You know the type. The longer they stay, the louder they get. That’s what this winter reminds me of, the barroom bore spitting praise of that great American hero, Grampy McCain, who’ll beat that b-word Hillary and n-word Barack like he himself was beaten at the Hanoi Hilton. Just you wait and see. God bless America. Praise the lord. Slaughter the anti-Christ terrorists. … Haven’t we been through this drill before?

But let’s not digress. What I’m trying to say is that if you haven’t already done so, it’s time to rescue your fishing equipment from the dusty shed for its annual once-over. Cleaning and oiling and replacing line are perfect chores to perform with March Madness dominating your inner sanctum, color analysts, themselves former players and coaches, extolling the virtues of sport, how it builds character, makes America a better place. As they preach, believe me, the chores won’t interfere with your brackets one iota.

Brackets? Yeah, you know what I’m talking about. Doesn’t everyone have at least one? Well, not everyone, I guess. In fact, I must admit I don’t. Must be the malaise brought on by male menopause. Yeah, that’s it, male menopause, middle-age lethargy. I’m sure I can find a doctor, maybe a therapist, to support my layman’s diagnosis. And there’s definitely a pill to cure it, maybe a handful three times a day if you’re willing to bury your face in a Reader’s Digest for an hour before spilling your guts to a total stranger in a stifling, antiseptic space. Praise the world of office visits and pharmaceutical solutions: gulp … ah! … your troubles behind you.

Myself, well, I guess I’ll just deal with such maladies the old-fashioned way; keep plugging, a day at a time, steady she goes, don’t even glance in the rearview. Yup, that’s the route I’m gonna take, even though it does absolutely nothing for the economy or hungry Pfizer shareholders.

Enough! There I go again, getting distracted by current events and modern solutions to ancient issues. What I really wanted to say is that trout-stocking has begun. Those trucks with insignias on their doors, purring, aerated tanks on their spines, will soon be depositing nets full of shiny trout into sparkling waters near you. Thankfully, waters like that still exist here in the impoverished valley and its glorious hills. But don’t take them for granted, these hills and dales, rivers, streams and bogs. Neglected, they’ll be devoured by glutinous big-box development, wiped from the face of the earth for a buck and a quick, unimaginative fix.

Why can’t we all just get along and look like Arkansas or Texas or Tuscaloosa, places where you wouldn’t stick your little toe into a river, never mind eat something from it? Why can’t we all buy cheap toys made in some Chinese sweatshop, and poisoned food for our pets and selves? Everyone else is doing it. Why not us?

Whew! Glad I finally spit-up that hairball. But if that’s where this bus is headed, count me out. I have another destination in mind. Me, I’ll be the deranged loner, a little rough around the edges, unshaven, wetting my worm in the whitewater froth below the damp, shaded gristmill ruins. It’s a better place. Far better.

If y’all don’t believe me, then order yourself a fat Cheezdawg to-go and take a little nature walk. But please, I beg, don’t leave the wrapper at the water’s edge. It’s toxic.

Rebel Retreat

An undisturbed snowplow ridge told the story: It had been months since a four-wheeled vehicle had driven the aboriginal trail that became a Colonial path, then a well-used thoroughfare from Williamsburg to Conway until discontinued around 1950.

Because the mud season hadn’t yet arrived, I decided to give it a shot, convinced I’d stay atop the solid, crunchy corn snow, confident the come-along and chain in my pickup’s bed would rescue us if needed, always a comforting thought. But we got through our little journey fine, no issues, then poked around briefly in a quiet hardwood forest, once the farmstead of 18th century rebel Perez Bardwell, a Whately man of hardscrabble Yankee temperament. Unusual name for the time, too.

I had traveled this intentionally unnamed, unimproved road many times in worse conditions, deeper snow, muddier, with chains fastened around my back tires. So I was confident my all-terrain treads would take us the short distance required without calamity, which, at midday, work in the foreground, I wanted no part of. An experienced four-wheeler never lets his guard down at this time of year, the absolute worst if the mud is right. I know. Seems I learn most lessons the hard way, including mud-caked misadventures. Guess it’s just who I am. But it’s gotten me this far and I’m too old to change.

My passenger was a Pennsylvania native who touched down in Conway some four years ago and, having a history background, is enthralled with the town and its 18th century pioneers. Of particular interest to the man, working on a book, is a fiery Bardwell soul brother named Samuel Ely, a disrobed Congregational minister who came to Conway from Somers, Conn., in 1772 and called our western hilltown home for 10 turbulent years. It was during his final year there, in 1782, that he whipped a frenzied mob into open revolt against the Massachusetts government and Hampshire County Court. Coined Ely’s Insurrection, the clamor proved to be a precursor to Shays’ Rebellion (1786-87), which brought western Massachusetts notoriety before the Constitution was written or George Washington was elected our first president.

Back in the day, Ely knew well the country we traversed, the roads, too, connecting Conway, Whately, Burgy and beyond. In fact, a road we sampled would have been his route from Conway to the Hampshire County Courthouse he and his insurgents assaulted. That’s why I showed my newfound historian friend the layout, for perspective, not to mention invigorating chatter. Our interests intersect in many local-history spheres and, come to find out, politics as well … a subject to approach on tip-toes with someone new.

Always searching for an excuse to visit my favorite haunts before turkey season and after a tough winter on deer, I was more than willing to show my companion the lay of the land, and the place Bardwell called home before moving around 1790 to Phelps, Wayne County, N.Y., where he died in 1815. A proud veteran of French and Indian War expeditions to Crown Point and Canada, then a Revolutionary lieutenant, Bardwell was a member of the mob that freed Ely from jail in Springfield, then briefly was held hostage by Northampton authorities trying to recover Ely. I knew Bardwell’s cellar hole from research following many deer hunts there, and thought it would be of interest to my passenger.

We pulled up to the intersection of two wooded trails and parked, releasing two of my Springers, Lily and Bessie, from their porta-kennels before taking a short trek, maybe 100 yards, to the flat wooded site at the base of a ridge. The first visible remains were stones from a barn’s foundation, then 100 feet east, a stone-clad cellar hole some 40 by 25 feet, no indication of where the chimney had stood, probably centered. A short distance east of the homesite was a small, clear, free-flowing spring brook, then, some 75 feet upstream, a stone foundation that crossed it, likely a barn judging from the high western foundation butted up against a shallow hill; no small barn, either.

During hunts and hikes covering bits of five decades and two centuries, I have identified many similar sites in those woods, reconstructing a lost world in my memory’s bedrock. It’s a fascination that lures me to such places, often alone, gun in hand, so it’s always a bonus to meet someone to share them with, especially folks who’ll respect and leave them undisturbed, no metal detectors, please. My companion on that day fit the bill.

Our first field trip was brief; too short, in fact; but I was able to point out future exploration routes along the way, ones we’ll revisit when the snow’s gone and the turkeys are gobbling. Once the mud dries, we’ll return for further inspection along roads that appeared iffy this week. Why push it? The day will soon come when I’ll be able to show him Morton’s mill, Elihu Waite’s farm, and the small home of Isaac ”Cider Marsh,” known before the turn of the 19th century for the spirituous liquors he distilled and, apparently, liberally consumed. Legend has it that people in the neighborhood back then referred to 30-barrel tanks as ”Marsh’s tumblers,” obviously a tribute to a man who could ”hold his liquor.” Yes, sir, they say old Cider Marsh was quite the boy, a throwback from way back, a local legend whose spirit still lurks in the damp watershed air. My newfound Conway friend and I will return to pull this damp, wooded, Marshy spirit deep into our lungs. From it will come lively conversation, a brisk walk, an energetic romp for my pets. It’ll be mutually beneficial. Stimulating on many levels. Physical, mental, spiritual. Especially the latter.

I guess it’s all about knowing the woods in a way not generally associated with hunting.

Like chasing ghosts, kindred spirits.

Camp Meat

They’re raising a ruckus in the sleepy Hampshire County hilltown of Chesterfield, where officials are threatening to shut down a longtime camp on a Boy Scout reservation in a dispute over a temporary summer shooting range.

Although I don’t intend to research and devote a lot of time to the case — surely, much to the chagrin of those who will scream bloody murder that it’s my duty as a hook & bullet columnist — it is local and, thus, worthy of mention. So, I’ll just be the messenger. No more, no less. Anyone previously unaware and so inclined can get involved.

To summarize briefly, a Chesterfield neighbor or two has complained about the summer noise emanating from the camp and other issues pertaining to guns and the antis who loathe them. The clamor reached town officials’ ears long ago, and now, after two years of bickering, the town has ruled in favor of the plaintiffs by, 1.) prohibiting the Scouts from allowing others to use their property, and 2.) limiting firearm use to small-caliber rifles.

Unhappy with the town’s decision, the Boy Scouts have filed a federal-court appeal, and the Gun Owners Action League, a state firearm association that runs the shooting camp along with MassWildlife, has jumped into the fray to offer its support. It won’t be long before the National Rifle Association appears, if it hasn’t already, so expect a long, drawn-out fight and media barrage when the NRA reaches into its deep pockets to support the Scouts’ right to continue using their rifle range as pleased.

This dispute has a lot to say about the way times have changed in our Hampshire/Franklin hamlets, where outfits like this Massachusetts Junior Conservation Camp in tiny Chesterfield ran smoothly and out of harm’s way for generations, no complaints from tolerant backwoods residents who owned guns, probably hunted and had no fear of gunfire. Now, the same expansive hilltown farms these simple agrarian folks maintained for centuries have fallen into the hands of fancy-pants metropolitans, accustomed to gangs and drive-bys, committed to gun-control and political correctness. They don’t buy second homes in the country to put up with gunfire, the poor souls. That’s why camps like the one under fire in Chesterfield cannot escape challenges. Sad but true. And take it to the bank, there will be more.

Is it right? No. Not from this perch. I say live and let live. But count me out of this battle. While I believe strongly in my right to bear arms, there is nothing else about which I agree with right-wing organizations like the NRA. As a kid, I found Charlton Heston entertaining in his Western films; as an adult, I viewed the aging actor as frightening when exposed to his wild-eyed NRA rhetoric.

Sorry, fellas, I know its sacrilege, even blasphemy, coming from a gun-owner and hunter. But that’s the way I feel and I’m not ashamed to admit it. Simply stated, NRA and GOAL politics are not for me. So let someone else carry their water.

I’m not religious or self-righteous, don’t have a Southern twang, am pro-choice, pro-union, and antiwar. So how can I support the NRA?

Impossible.

Coy Dogs

Another evening phone call at my Recorder desk that got my wheels spinning. Gotta love it.

The caller was a dear old friend, one I see far too little of now that we’ve “grown up” and gone our separate ways. That’s life. But he touches base now and again, usually at my workplace, to rattle my cage about something or even discuss a serious matter. This was the latter.

I knew he was stirred when he asked, “Hey Bags (my nickname since childhood), why do they protect those goddamn coy dogs? Someone’s got to tell them to smarten up. What good are they? Why don’t you go after the idiots protecting them? I’m gonna shoot every one I can whether they like it or not.”

Strong words from an otherwise conservative, law-abiding man. And he is far from the only person with such a strong opinion in disfavor of our Eastern coyote. You’ll hear the same rant from country folk who raise livestock or fowl, own cats or dogs, any of which can feel the deadly fury of the opportunistic Eastern coyote, still “coy dogs” to some in the Franklin County vernacular.

Before we proceed, be it known there are readers out there who’ll accuse me of publicizing or even lending credence to an irresponsible point of view. But I’ll take my lumps here. I believe people are entitled to their opinions in this land of the free, home of the brave, despite what “culture warriors” Bill O’Reilly and Sean Hannity, those two “fair-and-balanced” guardians of freedom, liberty and justice, say.

But let’s not digress. … Back to my buddy and his coyote problem, which left me a little perplexed at the start of our conversation. I tried to clear my confusion.

“Why do you say they’re protected?”

“Because they have a season on them. You should be able to shoot ’em year around.”

“Oh yeah, I guess the season goes from November to March. That’s not long enough for you?”

“No. It should be year around. What good are they? When I see them around my place, I’m gonna kill ’em. Take that to the bank.”

What had my friend’s blood boiling was backyard slaughter, a poignant, bloody mess on virgin snow. It seems he’d grown quite fond of three fawns and two does feeding at the edge of his yard since June and enjoyed their presence as many rural residents do. There’s just something peaceful and comforting about deer grazing on your lawn when you pull into your driveway at dusk. “They weren’t tame by any means but they’d stay right there, look at me and keep eating as long as I didn’t make a loud noise, quick movement or anything.”

Presumably due to the abundance of acorns and the lack of snow and winter cold through January, the deer were noticeably absent for months, totally ignoring the winter corn piles Mr. Bad Boy had dumped along the woods line, and he was wondering what was going on. Deer had always come to his cracked corn in previous years, but this year nothing. But then came the snow, the bitter cold and the deer, daily in February.

Yeah, yeah, we all know the authorities frown on feeding wild animals, including if not especially deer. In fact, it’s downright illegal. But we also know that people do it all the time and will continue to do so. So, given that there’s little anyone’s going to do about it, let’s just ignore the issue for the sake of telling a story.

With the late winter finally taking root for the February freeze, the deer came to my buddy’s corn regularly for a few weeks then curiously disappeared. After days of absence, he suspected something was amiss. He wasn’t sure what, but something wasn’t right. Then, during the barren period, he came home, noticed hair frozen to the crusty snow and went out back to investigate. Sure enough, coyotes had taken down a deer, probably one of the fawns, right by the corn mounds. All that remained was blood and hair, two telltale signs. He followed a faint trail back into the woods a little ways and came up only with a square piece of hide and hair, nothing else, before turning back.

“Those (illegitimates) killed that deer right there where it was eating. I don’t know if they waited in the bushes and ambushed it or what, but they took it down right where they’d been eating.

Perhaps the deer had been wounded by a car, then devoured, I thought out loud.

“I knew you were going to say that, or that it was for some reason weak. Maybe so, but I think they killed a healthy deer. They sure looked healthy to me.”

It’s definitely possible for canids to take down a healthy deer, particularly on slippery, crusty snow that can be deadly to whitetails. Maybe a family unit of coyotes surprised the group of feeding deer and one of them, startled, slipped and splayed out on the icy surface. It happens, and coyotes are well aware of deer’s helplessness on ice. That’s why they are known to coordinate winter chases toward frozen surfaces, force a whitetail onto the ice and make quick work of it where, hooves rendered useless, it’s splayed on its belly and unable to move, a pathetic sight. Pathetic indeed.

Also, when snow is crusty like it was at the time of the kill last week, deer are particularly vulnerable. When chased by a pack of coyotes or domestic dogs, the pursuers stay on top of the crust and the pursued break through, creating a mismatch, especially in deep snow. The final act is not pretty.

Self-described “animal lovers” who view that final act as an act of nature, not predatory malice, would be the first to abhor a cleaner, quicker, more humane kill of an unsuspecting creature by a bipedal hunter. On one hand, they philosophize it’s wrong to have a vendetta toward coyotes for slaying deer, on the other they propose a ban on immoral human hunting.

Go figure.

A couple of items about, dare I say, competing interests on the Millers River conservation front, one about the upstart Millers River Fishermen’s Association led by indomitable Peter Mallett, the other regarding the Millers River Chapter of Trout Unlimited and Ken Elmer.

To avoid any favoritism accusations we’ll list them according to date of the event they want publicized, which means the MRFA agenda first.

— Mallett and the boys will be set up at Sunday’s annual North Quabbin Sportsmen’s Experience, a sporting show held at the Athol-Orange Elks. There and later at the annual Millers River Rat Race (April 14), the MRFA will be selling raffle tickets for a Cabela’s Panther river-drift pontoon boat to be raffled off on June 30, the date of the organization’s fishing derby for kids 1-14. … In other MRFA news, the organization is selling five-piece topographical map sets of the Millers River basin, including all 45 miles of river. The cost is $10. They are available by calling Mallett at (978) 544-7126 or visiting the MRFA Web site. … The MRFA has organized two trout-stocking and tagging events in May. The first on May 5 at the Orange Wastewater Treatment Plant off Route 2A, the second on May 19 at the Birch Hill parking lot in South Royalston. Kids will be allowed to tag their own trout for release into the river on those dates. … Whew! Never short and sweet when it comes to Mr. Mallett.

— As for the MRTU Chapter, it will hold its annual banquet March 31 at the Sacred Heart Church on Cross Street in Gardner. A pasta dinner will be followed by well-known fishing guide Marla Blair, who’ll present a program “Fly Fishing on Kodiak Island, Alaska.” Doors will open at 6 p.m. and supper will be served a half-hour later. Many great raffle items will be up for grabs. For more information, check with the MRTU Web site at www.millersrivertu.org.

A Proud NIMBY

I’m coming out. Jumping into this ”biomess” fiasco. Can’t resist.

I was, at first, reluctant to enter the dustup for many reasons, not the least of which is that a forester I am not. Also, I myself heat with wood, annually sending seven cords’ worth of smoke billowing skyward from October to May. So who am I to complain about wood smoke from biomass or those controversial residential wood boilers, for that matter? But more than anything else, addressing such an issue requires work, and I have other subjects of interests on my plate. Let others do the heavy lifting. I’ll just sit and watch from the sidelines. That was my initial, slothful reaction before the clamor grew deafening and several activists contacted me directly, figuring I wore political stripes similar to theirs.

Well, I finally gave in and jumped softly into the fray last week with a little left jab that brought praise from several biomass opponents and criticism from a supporter who called me a NIMBY, that pejorative acronym that translates as ”not in my back yard,” an attitude I do not deny coddling. In fact, if the critic who called me a NIMBY thought it an insult, what a lame attempt. I am a proud NIMBY, deeply rooted here in the Happy Valley all the way back to our Colonial Contact Period, and committed to preserving the rural character and historic assets of my ancestors, including landscapes. So, send me a NIMBY hat, a shirt to match, and I’ll sport them proudly through City Square, at the polling place, the supermarket, absolutely no hesitation. But, please, none of that cheap Wal-Mart stuff; preferably a New Era fitted cap, either 100 percent cotton or a wool blend; same with the T-shirt, 100 percent cotton, dense thread count. No crap that could poison me from ingestion of sweatband dyes. Made in the USA, hopefully by someone working for a living wage.

So tell me, given my NIMBY predisposition, how could I possibly support a filthy smokestack — brainchild of a faraway investor, to boot — towering over prehistoric Peskeomskut, a landmark in our green, fertile valley? Sorry fellas, ain’t gonna happen. You wanna line up banks of solar panels on some unobtrusive southern exposure, go for it, I’m fully supportive if it’ll take me off the grid. But a smokestack that could lead to forest devastation akin to the photos posted by Massachusetts Forest Watch at www.maforests.org? Uh-uh! Not for me. I don’t call that progress, no matter how much profit can be earned.

Another reason I hesitated to attack this proposed incinerator (ooops) is that ”responsible” logging of our prevalent ”old-growth forest” would improve habitat for game like whitetail deer and ruffed grouse, both of which thrive in young forest. Our deer-management team has identified old-growth forests, particularly in western Franklin and Berkshire counties, as a detriment to attaining their desired deer densities of 12 to 16 per square mile. Forests dominated by large trees 80 and more years old choke off understory, limiting an essential food source crucial for rebuilding a deer herd. Small patches of clear-cutting in harmony with responsible thinning of adjacent old forest stimulates regeneration, producing needed browse to build and sustains a vibrant deer herd. But responsible logging is not what I see on the Forest Watch site, and it’s not what expert Chris Matera describes in his troubling ”Massachusetts Chainsaw Massacre” report at www.maforests.org/Release.pdf, either; an indictment of the Patrick Administration for promoting destructive biomass logging. Look at the photos. Read the report. Tell me it’s appealing to you. The photos hit home. They’re right in our neighboring state forests, disgusting too weak an adjective.

But I don’t want to be unfair. I saw where a Shutesbury forester criticized the anti-biomass hysteria, said there were strict rules in place here in Massachusetts to prevent irresponsible logging. He clearly knows more about the subject than I, and maybe there are rules in place to protect historic landscapes and prevent butcher jobs. But I’m a Sixties guy who doesn’t trust government to ”do the right thing.” Do you?

Of course, there are different opinions among foresters. A case in point is another Franklin County forester and loyal reader of this space. Seeking an expert opinion, I e-mail queried him about the issue last week. His delayed response was interesting. He said he owned forest and would benefit from biomass, which would provide a market for otherwise ”unsalable” wood, ”especially after the great ice storm of 2008.” But the man is more committed to forests and wildlife than dollars and cents, and, ”as an ecologist,” said he has strong reservations about the many biomass proposals statewide. He knows the claims from some colleagues who believe our forests can easily withstand biomass, and that, given our tough forest-cutting restrictions, there is no real danger. But he isn’t buying it. Like me, he appears to harbor a healthy distrust of government. I guess anyone worth their salt should.

Anyway, our informed source — one I have chosen not to name because, in my opinion, it’s not important — broke down his overriding biomass concerns in the note. I found them interesting indeed, not surprising.

”First,” he wrote, ”current cutting laws are mostly aimed at production, not wildlife habitat. We all know that forest management benefits some species, but we know little about wholesale forest cutting and the impacts on some of our animals that have returned because of reforestation. Black bears and ravens come to mind.”

He went on to say he doesn’t trust the numbers being used by biomass proponents and can’t understand why an environmental-impact report wasn’t required, or why one facility isn’t permitted as a test site to study the impact, ”not only on air and water quality, but also wildlife habitat, rare species, etc.”

Our West County source admits he finds the debate interesting and has followed it. He also understands the importance of local energy sources. But, still, he keeps returning to the same crucial question: Is biomass a wise use of our resources? ”Not to sound jaded,” he wrote, ”but right now it looks to me like a plan to make some city-slickers rich. ”I can think of a better use of our forests. Like a home for black bears, for instance.”

Obviously, not all foresters are in his camp. But consider this: Wholesale logging to support raging furnaces could mean work for foresters, consultants who thus may not be our most trusted sources. Conversely, maybe we should heed those opposed, because they’re taking a position that potentially takes money out of their own pockets.

As for the biomass test-site our forester foe proposes: I say send it to Lowell or Lawrence or Brockton, or some other stooped mill town built by child labor on landscapes long ago ravaged. Better still, send it to the industrial heartland or the sunny South; Houston, for instance, where people die and are diseased every day by the air they breathe, the water they drink. Their leaders welcome and deserve such maladies, and can have them.

But, please, not in my back yard.

Yeah, perfect, Not – In – My – Back – Yard.

A beautiful ring to it.

NIMBY

My proud mantra.

Out & About

On the road again, me and an old codger, he a spry octogenarian.

We were following e-mail leads from Conway readers commenting on last week’s column about my visit to Conway’s first cellar hole, that of Cyrus Rice, circa 1763, now hidden in a manicured 350-acre wood lot. The tips led me to Shirkshire, to Poland, then a return to the Rice site for a guided tour by the owners, pleasant academics with warm affection for their land. And what is there not to love about it: cellar holes; a classic well; a spring hole nestled into a depression between two hemlock spines; discontinued 18th-century roads, likely former indigenous trails; even a stately, stone Seven-Mile-Line bound buried deep in the woods behind the old Otto Farm, which started its decline around 1960? That’s when owners Bill and Helena, and son Bill, started to fade. By 1965, both Bills were gone; Helena eight years later. Soon the big dairy barn and silos were gone and the farmhouse had melted into the background, along a well-traveled road, like so many before and after it. Some call it progress. I call it sad. Slow death by industrial revolution; the final days of family farming aimed at subsistence. Once prevalent in the valley and its rolling hills, family farms kept the countryside fresh and fertile, the meats and produce salubrious; organic, no preservatives or poisons. No wonder our ancestors worked so hard and lived so long before we discovered a ”better way,” one that polluted the earth, air and water in a greedy race to riches. But let’s not digress; back to my recent tips and trips, 87-year-old Harry Stafursky in tow, soaking it all in.

Harry grew up on Stafursky Farm, once a square, dual-chimney, hipped-roofed, colonial tavern that served North Shirkshire residents and passersby alike. The building is long gone, burned to the ground in the Sixties or early Seventies. The image in the minds of those who remember it is two massive chimneys standing sentry over the site. The few who remember the whole spread are getting fewer, soon to vanish like the buildings. But Harry remembers it well, lived it, cherishes the memories. So it was interesting to bring him along to view the remains of a large, early farm and mill site on the property of a neighboring landowner, a reader of this space, by chance a distant cousin of mine through the 1749 union of Jonathan Edson and Mehetable Lillie. Yes, a small world indeed, this Pioneer Valley; kinfolk up the ying-yang if you pay attention to such things. I do. Can’t get enough of it. If you don’t know who you are, what’s the sense of living? That’s the outlook that fills my sails.

But, back to the Shirkshire dwelling’s cellar hole, massive hearthstone capping a pile of rubble that once served as the footing for a large, walk-in colonial fireplace; nearby, the stone-clad remains of a significant barn; still farther down the discontinued road, remains of a major dam and millpond, presumably a sawmill and impoundment that provided lumber for construction, ice and sawdust for the milk house. The brook feeds Bear River. Know it well. Often fished the outflow by the bridge as a young man; productive. Who knows who lived there and built this dam? I’d like to piece it all together. The information is at the Registry of Deeds. Another day. No time now.

The next day, Sunday afternoon, we traveled to another part of town, unannounced, me and Harry, in search of the e-mailer whose husband had turned up a derringer in an uprooted tree near his North Poland home; entertainment for both of us, Harry and me. Uplifting.

We arrived at the intersection of Bullitt Road and North Poland and I looked around, trying to figure out which house it was. Then I remembered my dogs, three of them, cooped-up in their porta-kennels since Greenfield, anxious for a hilltown romp, maybe a swim. So we headed up Bullitt Road, toward a reservation, and followed a farm road into a mature hayfield, where we parked and released the animals, eager to scope out the area, figure out what critters had passed through. The dogs sprang through the field, noses on full alert, frolicking, as Harry and I remarked on the beautiful landscape and pleasant change in the air following a deluge.

As we spoke, I noticed chartreuse on the dirt road, then a capped horseback rider trotting up the road. She passed and I whistled the dogs into their crates before heading down the trail toward the road, where we bumped into the rider, doubling back. I stopped and asked if she knew anything about a derringer. She asked if I was Gary. We chatted briefly. She described where she lived, said she’d be along shortly. Harry was amused, tickled by the developments, the method to my madness, how it all seemed to come together on a wing and a prayer. I too was amused in a playful manner. I love hunting, finding things.

We pulled into the woman’s yard, got out of the car and waited. Soon the chartreuse was headed up the long U-shaped driveway. She pulled into the stable at the bend and put her Arabian horse up for the night before walking our way. She invited us in and showed us photos of the derringer, said she was expecting her husband, in the upper meadow, only he could open the safe. We went out on the deck to chat, then heard a tractor approaching. It was him, returning home. We exchanged pleasantries as he approached and he went inside to retrieve the rusty derringer, wooden handles rotted off, circa 1865, Springfield Armory, interesting relic. Who knows? Maybe the corpse was nearby.

When he returned with the pistol, we engaged in lively chat, dancing from one subject to another, Harry right in the middle of it, visibly pleased with the chatter. Then, when he started praising me and my interests, I stopped him, told him it was time to go, didn’t want to wear out our welcome or stir up my wife waiting at home, always a convenient excuse.

We hit the road and I drove Harry back to his place in Greenfield, a meandering route through Conway and Deerfield. In his parking lot, I declined a friendly invitation upstairs. He wanted to show me something. There would be another day. Maybe another Shirkshire jaunt, perhaps Cricket Hill, home of Conway historian Deane Lee, Harry’s late schoolmate, maybe even a visit to Cy’s cellar, South Part, Henhawk Trail. Who knows where our whims will take us? Who cares? It’s never boring, can be invigorating, often providing impetus for new journeys that keep life interesting, the mind active.

It’s all about discovery, equally satisfying for young and old. First, though, you must embrace it, and it you.

Harry knows.

Me too.

A Path to Why

If perceptive, you pay attention to what’s going on around you and, in the process, life proves interesting as you poke and prod for enlightening information that helps form your conception of place and where you fit.

Since moving to Greenfield at the end of the last millennium, I must admit I’ve become more fine-tuned with nature and wildlife, not because my interest has intensified but rather because I’m closer to it, nestled into the back corner of Greenfield, snuggled up to a brook and gorge mouth at the base of the first step to the Berkshire hills. The country setting lends itself to many more wildlife sightings than my previous home in South Deerfield village, even dating back to that neighborhood’s pre-development days of my boyhood. I could count on one hand my deer sightings from that property I grew up on, then owned, and I never saw the bears or wild turkeys that are now fairly common sights in my daily travels; not to mention the skunks, the possum and raccoons that seek out my barn, sheds and the crawl spaces below for shelter. They often eat from my cats’ skillet as owls hoot from the forest’s edge or eagles soar in the infinite blue sky. Great environment.

I will never forget one late afternoon this century when I was out in the woodshed and heard my son screaming out as though alarmed, like the place was afire. Not so. Just a large, silky-black bruin eating apples under a tree at the foot of my driveway. Aware that we were watching, it sauntered off across the road to a field behind a neighbor’s house. Another time, the same son was almost as excited to point out a majestic bald eagle perched in a tall white pine overlooking our common, an unexpected terrace treat.

What I most enjoy studying, though, is white-tail deer, particularly in the spring and summer, when the does drop and raise fawns, and bucks sprout velvety antlers. I find it fascinating to monitor the habits of these smart and noble beasts, learning about territory and diet, protection of young, whatever, as I patrol the upland roads on daily drives with my dogs and sometimes passengers.

Recently, my fancy has been a doe I’ve watched since early spring on a splendid sliver of Franklin County paradise no more than a quarter-mile square. I first caught her feeding evenings with three to five others in a March-brown but greening hayfield, backdropped by southern Vermont’s crowded gumdrop hills. By strawberry season the hay had grown high enough to conceal more than half their bodies, and I’d peer for frozen heads and ears. Then the hay was cut, the sightings easier. So, I have seen this animal several times, usually tight to the wood line, head down, grazing on fresh green growth stimulated by morning dew and spring rain. I occasionally even put the binoculars on her and knew from her skinny face and thin profile that she was a doe in the 110-pound range.

What stroked my curiosity most in June was the potential of nearby fawns, because I knew such a healthy animal living in a dairy habitat should have given birth to at least one. After a week or two of searching for little ones I bumped into a member of the farm family that had harvested the hayfield and asked if he had participated. If so, had he seen the pathetic remains of fawns on the scalped, stubbly field. If not, had his brothers spoken of unfortunate carnage. The answer was no on both counts. Better still, he was sure he would have heard of such mortality because it’s a subject routinely discussed. Farmers of this mechanized era cannot eliminate occasional fawn-kills during first cut, but it’s equally true that they try to avoid it. The problem is that the helpless little ones are invisible as they lay totally still in nests where their mothers leave them. This year a long wet June delayed haying on many fields until after Independence Day, ideal for fawn survival.

Not more than two days after our short, pleasant conversation under the cool, damp shade of a tall pine grove, I was returning home from running my dogs when I saw the doe in her typical place along the wood line, head down, tail flicking nervously. I thought I spotted movement behind her, slowed down to reach for my field glasses to take a closer look and, sure enough, spotted, spindly legged twins, body-mass smaller than my Springer Spaniels. Their mother picked up her head and stood tall as a preacher, facing me from some 150 yards away. Then she must have given the fawns an audible warning signal, because they both scampered into the woods and stood out of sight behind the low vegetation as the doe stood motionless, ears alert, nose expanding and contracting, in a calendar pose. I moved along, not wanting to disturb supper. But I was pleased. Finally a sighting. The little ones had appeared before dark.

Although I have not seen the precious caramel twins since, I have twice bumped into their mother in an adjacent hollow, maybe 350 yards down the hill, near a burial ground. The first time I saw her, sunny midmorning, it caught me by total surprise. I was dropping my pickup’s tailgate to release my dogs into the wetland below when something caught my eye and there she stood, motionless, 15 feet below me. She stared at me, I at her and she trotted off in no great hurry through the pines where I had spoken to the farmer. Hmmmmm, I wondered, big healthy doe, probably the same one, skinny face, but no fawns? They should have been big enough by then to tail along, but she gave no indication they were with her.

A day or two later, I bumped into the neighbor, originally from Ashfield, and we chatted. Had he seen the doe around? Yes. How about little ones? No, but he had seen the doe several times, crossing the road, in his yard, never little ones. He figured she left them bedded in the swamp before going off. I believed him. Made perfect sense.

For a few days after that, no sign of the doe or fawns, but I knew they weren’t far. Then, Sunday evening, right at the site where I had bumped face-to-face into the mother, I backed my truck up to the lip overlooking the small wetland, exited the vehicle, dropped the tailgate, released my three dogs, and a telltale sound greeted us.

”Whew! … Whew!” A deer blew her piercing warning signal, followed by heavy rustling in the woods. Then farther away, ”Whew! … Whew!” two more powerful exhales. The dogs froze facing the sound, ears perked, noses high, vigilant. They knew what it was. So did I.

I returned to the scene Monday morning to exercise my pets. Then, on a departure whim, I took a left instead of the right homeward and pulled into my northern neighbor’s long driveway. His red truck was in the field out back, his wife’s maroon SUV parked by the back door. I spun around the uphill horseshoe toward the SUV and it started to roll, so I exited my vehicle and approached hers. The brake lights shone, her door opened. She hadn’t noticed me approaching.

We exchanged brief pleasantries and I asked her if she had seen the doe with little ones? Yes, two of them. They’d been in her yard several times in recent days. It didn’t surprise me. In fact, I was expecting it.

Just as I had thought, the doe had blown her warning the previous evening to alert her fawns of danger. Instinct confirmed. It’s the kind of stuff that makes life interesting: observation and assessment, interaction with others, spinning the fine-toothed wheels of discovery and imagination.

Some choose the chapel, others the pagoda, but for me nature, place and perspective stitch it all together. It’s all I need to know, a brilliant tapestry, intricate and dynamic … a path to why.

Patten Squire

What I remember most about the late Ellsworth Barnard was the day I met him and wife Mary at their forested cabin in Shelburne’s Patten District, five miles up the hill from my Greenfield Meadows home. It was back in the late 1990s, probably 1998, which would have made him 90 or 91.

I had heard about and purchased his then recent tribute to High Ledges, ”In a Wild Place,” then read it, paying particular attention to the essay about the American chestnut, its demise and the many young chestnut trees Barnard was nurturing near his idyllic West County retreat. Intrigued, I found his number in the phone book, gave him a ring and asked if it would be possible to meet him, that I wanted to see his chestnut trees and have him autograph my book. Vaguely familiar with this column, he recognized my name, knew my farmhouse and invited me up.

”Drive to the sign that says ‘No Motorized Vehicles Beyond This Point,’ and ignore it,” he instructed. ”Drive right in and you’ll arrive at my cabin in a half-mile or so. I’d like to meet you.”

In no more than an hour, I was there, snuggled up to the 4WD vehicle parked near his cabin overlooking the Deerfield River, Shelburne Falls and the Berkshire Hills, a breathtaking view, especially for someone who’s patrolled the western Franklin County hilltowns for decades.

I went to the door, knocked and was greeted by Mary Barnard, a distinguished lady, hair tightly tied back in a bird’s nest.

”Come in,” she said. ”Dutch is in the kitchen.” At least my memory tells me it was the kitchen where we sat and talked; could have been a combination kitchen/dining room, though; casual, rustic, modest furnishings, fieldstone fireplace, spectacular view to the south and west.

We sat and talked for about 15 minutes before going outside to inspect the chestnut grove. As I recall, there were maybe a dozen trees about the width of my travel mug, maybe a bit wider. As he spoke about his little forestry project, you could feel Barnard’s affection for the chestnut trees. But he was a realist. He knew they would not survive.

”They’ll get a little bigger, look perfectly healthy, then dry up and die overnight,” he lamented. ”It’s a tragedy. I keep thinking that, with time, they’ll build a resistance to the blight and make a comeback. I will not be here to witness it.”

We chatted for a little while longer before I bid him adieu and retraced my path home, never again to lay eyes on him. I did catch his January 2004 obituary, age 96, and thought back to our visit. I remembered him as a gentle, soft-spoken, simple man; professorial of tongue and appearance; fit but bent and frail from age.

I now feel as though I know him better, having recently finished his four-volume memoir, ”In Sunshine and in Shadow,” written in retirement between 1985-91. He crafts nearly 1,100 pages to chronicle his life, starting with his Patten Hill boyhood on Barnard Farm, near High Ledges, where he acquired his love of nature centered on birds and wildflowers, then moving to his education and the turbulent teaching career that followed. A fiercely independent English prof, Barnard’s loyalty was to his students, not administrators, and he paid a price for it, bouncing from institution to institution, starting and ending at UMass/Amherst.

His autobiographical journey articulates his fascinating political evolution from a dyed-in-the-wool, rural New England Republican and F.D.R. foe to a left-wing radical, enemy of the military-industrial complex that pollutes the precious air and water, hungers for war, and abuses labor. I guess that’s what reading, reflection and worldwide life experience will do to a pensive, objective human mind, one that’s willing to listen and explore.

I must admit I came away from the memoirs wishing Mr. Barnard, my neighbor in many ways, was still alive. I would have enjoyed another visit, knowing what I now know. His was a fascinating tale, one worth reading on many levels. The voice is that of a Franklin County hilltown Yankee who had developed a profound philosophical approach to life and living.

Undoubtedly, those alive who knew Dutch Barnard intimately still miss him because of what he represented — a dying breed in these troubling times of shallow Dittohead bores and contrived profiteer wars.

Stink Bait

By now, the stink bait must be getting pretty ripe, sun-baked in a covered, five-gallon, galvanized pail with a bail handle — what we used to call garbage cans back in the day.
If you’re confused, relax, you just aren’t familiar with catfishermen and the bait they use. Aficionados brew special bait for a catfish derby, the biggest and best of which is scheduled for this weekend, “any where on the Connecticut River and its tributaries.”
We’re talking about the Holyoke American Legion Post 351 derby, 29th annual, the granddaddy of them all, the one the best and brightest anxiously await,
affable Senior Advisor Don Partyka at the helm, throwing in his two-cents’ worth from the sidelines, early and often, all in good fun, of course. Yes sir, the “Channel Cat” is quite the boy, one of the best, an all-time jawboner, probably Hall of Fame material.
Someone ought to buy him a Derby hat for the occasion. Maybe I will. A formal one.
Myself, I have no first-hand catfishing experience. No, I have always been on the periphery, but I do vaguely recall an old Pine Nook trapper, a good one at that, brewing catfish bait from carcasses and entrails; a pungent mix that would gag you, eyes
watering, out by his backyard clothesline. Open that garbage pail and be prepared to burn off your nostril hairs, one powerful stink. I’ve smelt it and could never imagine working with the stuff, transferring it to some sort of bait can or mayonnaise jar, and then
actually handling it to bait the hook. I guess old Trapper Teddy employed rubber gloves, which solved one problem, that of odor and bacteria on his hands, but who would want to deal with the stench every time they opened the container along the river’s bank? Phew! Maybe Trapper Teddy brought nose plugs to address the issue. All I can say is: Deep-fried catfish must be delicious, given what a man has to go through to catch them; off the bottom, of course, attracting them with a stench that would curl your hair and turn your tummy.
Trapper Ted used to say “the riper, the better” when it came to catfishing. I believed him. He knew what he was doing, whether running a ridge, chasing through swamps, or working a trap-line, upland or down. They don’t make any like him anymore; a
throwback from way back when I knew him; more than capable of making ends meet.
Anyway, Trapper Teddy’s long gone by now, probably resting at Pine Nook Cemetery, a good thing for competitors at this weekend’s derby. He would have been a tough man to deal with at such a gig. Having grown up on a large dairy farm bordered on the east
by the Connecticut River, Teddy learned to fish for catfish on lantern-lit nights, convivial occasions, of course. In fact, maybe the liquid refreshments helped him cope with the unpleasant odor accompanying his leisure activity; probably stimulated conversation,
too; kinda Huck Finn-Tom Sawyer stuff, plenty of ribbing, practical joking and horsing around away from the watchful eye of the, ah, authorities. Which is not to suggest that’s what happens today, in this more refined, homogenized culture. Uh-uh. We’re talking
about a little more law and order nowadays. No, a lot more; increased enforcement, too. Rules and regs. Gotta have ’em. Soon they’ll probably have surveillance cameras watching from the heavens, if they’re not already up there spying, Big Brother style. My
GPS unit says they’re already there, observing from the heavens. But let’s not digress. Some people welcome that kind of stuff, sing heartfelt praise. So, with that … back to the 29th annual Catfish Derby, Don’s Derby.

The good thing is that with Trapper Ted out of the picture, everyone will have a fair shot. But be advised that the old guy will be looking over the shoulder of anyone fishing his stretch of the Connecticut, and he’s not bashful; never was, always more than willing to
tell anyone who’s listening that they’re a stupid SOB who doesn’t have a clue. I heard it said hundreds of times, to me and many others.
It was no joke. Teddy meant every word he said. Spared no one.

A Better Way?

A large, plump crescent moon slumped lazily on end just above the Shelburne hills, leaning slightly northward like a giant overripe cantaloupe wedge in the hot, hazy western sky as I drove home from work late Tuesday night. I’m not sure whether its wry grin, mellow orange hue or both got my nostalgic juices flowing, but something stimulated thought about a phone call I had taken a day or two earlier, then immediately transported me back to an untethered youth in that village first called Bloody Brook, then South Deerfield, then, in the Polish-spiced vernacular, Sowdeeeerfeel — the Onion Town, poor sister of The (haughty) Street.

Isn’t it odd how a force of nature like that sultry summer moon can in an instant carry you back a generation and spin your imaginative gears like the chime wheel on a noontime tall clock?

It wasn’t the reported ”mountain goats” that sent me off reminiscing. No, not at all. That was just the updraft that lifted me high above my native town to the North Sugarloaf ridge where they have been seen of late, poking in and out of the ridgeline vegetation above the rusty sandstone cliffs, presumably feeding. A longtime friend and former lightning-rod town official was my source. He said he was sick of the big-cat yarns and had one stitched of a similar thread to share.

It seems he’s been using backyard binoculars to observe the pair of white wayward goats patrolling the North Sugarloaf spine since Memorial Day, but has been reluctant to talk about it for fear of the suspicions that could spread like wildfire in a small town like his. When he first noticed them more than a month ago, he picked up visual white movement that immediately piqued his interest. After all, he’d lived in town all his life and never seen anything like it: white quadrupeds throughout the day between the cliffs and the shelf cave we often visited as prepubescents many years ago, more than we like to admit. Back then we had it good, free rein of a magical hardwood ridge that has apparently become quite public in recent years, bikers and hikers galore working the trails that begin off Hillside Road.

I was thinking back to those days of boyhood bliss and found it sad that my youthful Huckleberry Finn haunts will never be the same. They weren’t there for my boys, and they won’t be for my precious grandson, Jordan, with his inquisitive grey-blue eyes, joyful gait, curiosity oozing from his pores. Now that special place has been discovered by adults, who bring with them the law-and-order crowd bent on eliminating ”mischief.” Today, such authority figures would surely pursue free-roaming boys of Mark Twain fabric to teach them young that there are rules to be followed, and enforced. Possession of things like matches, cigarettes and fireworks, hunting or jack knives, girlie mags and BB guns are today taboo, certainly punishable by, at the very least, stifling probationary scrutiny aimed toward the path to conformity.

Such enforcers were of a different ilk in my day, when they were the kid next door’s dad, probably veterans of either the European or Pacific theaters, definitely clear-headed on the difference between kid’s stuff and crime. Back then you could carry a pocket knife that wasn’t a deadly weapon, carve initials into a tree that weren’t interpreted as criminal ”tagging,” and step out of a storm and into an abandoned shed or barn without being charged for trespassing. You could even build a spacious fort in a dense white-pine grove without facing charges for destruction of personal property. Yes indeed, times have changed, and not necessarily for the better. But let’s not digress. It’s goats we’re talking about, isn’t it; white goats on the North Sugarloaf ridge? Oh yeah, now it’s coming back to me.

Whew!

It only took one phone call to a dear old friend to confirm the Sugarloaf goats’ presence. Praise the wonders of cell phones when you know the source you’re hunting is at work, probably somewhere deep in the Whately Glen reservation. He’s a part-time police officer, has been for many years, and I knew he’d have information. Fact was he hadn’t heard a word about goats this year, but did remember reports from last summer, so they’ve been around for a while. He had no idea where they came from. Maybe wild by now. Possibly escaped from the experimental UMass farm on River Road. Maybe from the private citizen who keeps penned goats off Hillside Road. Unlikely that either party would just set them loose to roam free, though. Could they survive the winter? He didn’t think so, but he didn’t rule it out.

Maybe someone who reads this will come forward and explain what’s happening on North Sugarloaf. Maybe the goats follow hikers and bikers around like pets. Maybe they run away. Who knows? Someone must.

Then again, maybe it’s the simple case of an owner who eats goat meat and prefers the free-range variety, kind of like Whole Foods, or the olden days when pigs were allowed to roam free in the woods around the Boston Township forts. There was enough wild food available then and now. If so, the beasts are probably happy to be free from barbed-wire containment on a beautiful ridge to roam, many nuts and berries, beautiful vista. I know. I enjoyed my boyhood freedom there. So did my pals. No supervision, no high-and-tight rules and regs. Just a band of free-range kids in the Mark Twain mold who grew up with the devil in their eyes, exuding personality, independence and, later, a healthy distrust of government — all undesirable qualities in today’s cookie-cutter America of decaying schools, expansive malls, standardized tests, and an alarming number of new spit-shined prisons.

A better way?

Uh-ah!

Not in my mind.

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