Adjustments

The grandsons were in town over the weekend, bringing with them a nasty, contagious, Vermont elementary school virus my immune system couldn’t fight off. Thus I’m a little under the weather yet maintaining my regular routine, sort of, with the help of Alka-Seltzer Plus.

It’s Wednesday. I just left the dogs out in the kennel, and they’re all fired, anticipating a hunt. Oh, how they love cold, clear November air and bright, sunny fall skies; better still, damp, gray and cold, low pressure, scent clinging low to the ground. When I assured them I’d be back for a swamp romp, their tell-tails told me they understood. First, though, it’s column day.

Yesterday, Tuesday, after a few days picking away at homestead chores  — I seldom hunt Saturdays or holidays anymore because of the crowds — I went out briefly in the morning and never got a flush in an area I in the past hunted two or three times a week but hadn’t visited in 20 years before last week. Then an insider’s tip drew me back to the familiar site. That day, my buddy had called to chat about another subject and during our rambling conversation told me he had walked his dogs there that morning and they flushed four pheasants from the eastern border of a dense swamp and marshy ponds I know well. A hunting buddy called a few minutes after we hung up, I told him to meet me there, and, yes, we killed two rapid-fire cock birds in a half-hour, one of them sporting an elusive Hatfield Fish & Game Club tag to add to my historic field-lanyard collection. It’s the only blue tag among many silver ones, so it sticks out and, no, it’s not gonna make it back to Hatfield for the annual raffle drawing of submitted numbered tags.

Upon awakening Tuesday, I felt like maybe I should stay home and rest but knew the dogs must be getting itchy, so I hoped to take them out if I could get my feet under me. Unsure of where to go, I figured why not return to that big, dense swamp and probe it a little deeper to see what came flying out? Figuring it’d be as good a place as any to hunt, I loaded the dogs into the truck for a noontime romp that had potential but ultimately bore no fruit; well, no birds, at least, which in no way implies that the meandering, mile-long maneuver through swampy, thorny, vine-tangled terrain dotted with thick cattail clumps I skirted on a cool, damp day wasn’t pleasing indeed.

When we returned to my truck with an empty gamebag, I didn’t know if I had another hunt in me but left the option open, figuring I’d take a circuitous route home to Greenfield through old, trusted pheasant country, aimed particularly at one covert I still hunt when vacant. Once there, not a hunter to be seen, so I slowed down and, not up to par, figured multiple hunters had already been through the spot and accelerated homeward, where sat a pile of exciting, nearly completed archaeological reading that could well develop into something quite radioactive to write about. But more on that another day. Let’s stay focused on hunting today.

For some reason, on that pleasant Tuesday drive, passing one site after another that once got stocked but does no longer, I quite out of the blue got to thinking about a conversation I had more than 30 years ago with then MassWildlife Game Manager Bill Pollack. When I told him where I worked, he immediately warmed up, said he knew the area well, having graduated from UMass/Amherst and hunted birds in the Amherst/Hadley/Sunderland area for decades. Then this fond reminiscence plummeted into somber lament for the coverts lost to development and highways over the years. He called it sad that the area no longer looked like it did during his school days, circa 1950, when there were more farms and fields and fence-rows and swales, and less sprawl.

“Trust me,” he cautioned, “It won’t get better.”

Well, no truer words could have been spoken, and those prophetic words have never left me, echoing through my consciousness now and again.

Which brings us to the present. How could I not think of Dave Vachula, the big Hatfield right-hander, and neighboring farmer Bob Thayer as I drove through Bradstreet, the site of many productive hunts 30 years ago, accompanied by friends like Timmy Dash, Bruce Van Boeckel and Tommy Valiton, all dead and gone. Yes, back in those days, privately owned acreage along what I call Hopewell Swamp was generously stocked by the state at many locations between Hatfield Pond and the base of Mt. Sugarloaf. Not only that but so was Hopewell Plain above and the Connecticut River floodplain below, right to the riverbank, spreading out the birds and hunting pressure, which makes hunter-conflicts far less likely. Nowadays, the stocking routine has changed dramatically, due mostly, I guess, to all the land gobbled up during MassWildlife’s aggressive land-acquisition program over the past three decades. Although I can’t say I view the current program negatively, it has definitely changed the Pioneer Valley pheasant-stocking philosophy and where I most often hunt.

Today, state Wildlife Management Areas get the lion’s share of birds, receiving two stockings per week, while many of the private coverts that used to get weekly birds get none. This 21st-century routine creates crowded state coverts, where parking can be a challenge and hunting has become strictly put-and-take, leaving little chance for stocked birds to survive more than a day or two. Still, I have not forgotten what it was like years ago at places like the vast fields between the Pilgrim Airport and Hatfield Pond, or between the airport and Straits Road, all of it open to hunting and holding birds if willing to bleed a little in thorny, foreboding swamps to find them These days, none of that dense, wet cover is stocked unless the local club throws a few birds in for the fellas who kill them soon after release. Also, that whole plain between Little Egypt and Christian Lane, once stocked at several points along the way, is now totally neglected along with the big open piece between Christian Lane and Route 116 in South Deerfield. Years ago, you could take a walk with your dog anywhere out there and expect to flush pheasants, with partridge and woodcock an added bonus on the right day. Today, sad but true, you feel fortunate to find a random stray pheasant anywhere within that vast acreage, and and the same can be said of the brushy railroad-track edges along the western perimeter, once productive, now barren.

Yes, all I can say is that on that slow, winding ride home early Tuesday afternoon, I looped through North Hatfield, Whately and the Mill River, Stillwater and Wisdom sections of Deerfield, passing one covert after another that was once stocked and is no longer. Sure, some of that change was brought by development, but not all of it; in fact, not as much as the folks making decisions would have you believe. The fact is that there’s been a policy change focused on stocking state-owned coverts that draw crowds, diminishing the quality of the hunt.

I’m not belly-aching, just thinking back to the good old days and that friendly, visionary warning from a man nearing retirement as head of the state’s pheasant-stocking program, circa 1982. He said it wouldn’t get better and was right. So, now, here I sit, close in age to Pollack that day we spoke, wondering what I should tell my grandsons about the future of wing-shooting?

I fear the worst.

Deer Friend

Old friend Tom White of Northfield says the time is now for deer hunters to get in the woods, and the man has meat in the freezer to prove it.

He took care of the familiar butchering chores Tuesday, intending when I spoke to him on the phone that morning to skin out the 8-point, 187-pound buck hanging in his friend’s barn since he killed it on Halloween morning near his home.

“It was nice that the weather cooperated and I could leave it hanging for a while,” said White, likely supporting the tradition that it’s best to season venison before packaging it. The problem is that, if it turns warm, the meat can quickly spoil, and that would be an unpardonable sin.

White, a sociable potter/artist with unbridled energy and spirit, is a devoted hunter who raises, breeds and trains German Shorthair Pointers owned and loved throughout the Pioneer Valley and beyond. I am often reminded of my friend by drinking from his signature earth-tone coffee mugs, lighting his lamps and placing drinks on the glazed, table-top coasters I’ve bought from him over the years. The last time I actually saw him to talk to was in late August when he stopped by with a gift, a game and a devilish grin. You see, he had called on the phone earlier and, knowing I collect Whately stoneware, reported digging up something of interest he wanted to share with me on his way through Greenfield. When he arrived at my home around 5 p.m., he came in and we chatted awhile before walking out to his truck to inspect his treasure: a small, handled ovoid jug covered with in a gray, pasty opaque film. He wanted me to wash it off at the nearby garden hose and see what appeared.

I must say I had immediate suspicions and, lo, the pretty little jug was no ancient artifact but a brand-new piece he had made me as a special gift, with Old Tavern Farm impressed on its shoulder under a streak of cobalt blue, the same color as the bird he had an artist friend paint on its face. I was moved by the thoughtful gesture, a personal gift from a friend and reader that I will treasure for the rest of my days; it currently standing atop a one-drawer Sheraton stand in the study between a sofa and my bookcases. It’s heartfelt offerings like that which a man like me finds most special; yes, a genuine token of friendship that will always have a story attached and a storyteller to spin it.

But enough of that, back to the man’s big buck, which, in his own words, had “just an ordinary rack” but, in my words, was no ordinary deer. No, 187-pound bucks in these parts qualify as large no matter how you frame it. Perhaps its ordinary head gear left it a step below a trophy buck, but, hey, like the fellas sitting at the Conway Taproom bar say: you can’t eat the horns. And get this. White says there’s a larger buck sporting a trophy rack that’s been showing up on his trail camera since August or early September. So now that critter is patrolling the same area minus his No. 1 competitor vying for the affection of four of five does White has seen up close and personal, not to mention on his camera.

“One time those does were right under my stand and I tried my best to put horns on them,” he laughed. “You know how that goes: low light and you start trying to grow horns on them before coming back to reality and admitting they’re baldies.”

Yeah, any deer hunter knows that creative little mind game of internal deception; and to be honest, I’d venture a guess that a game warden or two has heard excuses from violators who shoot does without a permit and try to defend themselves by saying it was an honest mistake. You know, something like, “Honestly, Officer, I thought it had horns or I wouldn’t have shot;” followed by the ruse that there must have been deceptive branches behind it, because the hunter was certain it had spikes when he squeezed the trigger; then the tear-jerker of all tear-jerkers that his eyes just ain’t what they used to be. Well, it’s doubtful such excuses get a man far with the stern, expressionless officers of the law patrolling the region nowadays, especially the new, rigid breed wearing their military high and tights, rarely fitting the profile of the kid next door’s dad that applied when I was young.

White predicts that bucks are now most vulnerable to hunters, because in the pre-rut stage they’re anxious to breed does playing hard to get. “The does aren’t in heat or receptive yet,” reported White, “but the bucks are all revved up, their hormones cooking, and they’re scraping and grunting and growing their fat rut necks.”

White grunted his handsome buck in after daybreak and says the beast came at him quickly from out of sight. He knew the deer he’d been monitoring were bedding in slash above his stand and was careful to walk in quietly to conceal his presence in a tree stand overlooking his man-made scrape doused with doe-in-heat and rutting-buck urines in a jar. As soon as he settled into his stand, he started working his grunt call softly, just in case a buck was close, then when nothing happened, started grunting louder and more aggressively while alternating between aggressive- and more subtle tending-grunt sequences.

“Finally, I heard something and saw the buck running right at me,” he said. “Like turkeys, they have an uncanny ability to pinpoint a faraway sound they’re interested in, and he came right to it, stopping right below my tree, freezing briefly and turning to walk away.”

It was during that alert departure that the deer, still looking for the rival beast making all the noise, made its fatal mistake by stopping briefly at a spot where White had a clear shot, no pesky hemlock branches obstructing his arrow’s path. He let fly from 26 yards at just before 7 a.m. and was able to follow the bright streak of his lighted-nock fly at the deer, clear through it and into the ground on the other side. The shot passed right through the animal’s vitals for what proved to be a quick, humane kill. The 3½-year-old deer never knew what hit him; he flinched, ran off some 50 yards into the hardwoods, staggered, fell and quickly expired from profuse internal bleeding.

So now White can focus on the big boy. Maybe it too will make a fatal mistake. Maybe not. White is hoping for the former.

“Yeah,” he said. “I’d be good with filling both my tags before shotgun season.”

Another Fine Covert Bites The Dust

It’s pheasant season, the ringnecks are cackling and flying and life is good; yet, sadly, some of my favorite coverts — thick, thorny, productive tangles I’ve plowed through regularly for 40 years — have become inundated with unfamiliar hunters, many from far away, a relatively new development.

It’s perfectly alright that “outsiders” find their way to the public, state-owned coverts on which all are not only welcome but directed by online maps that can be printed and stored in glove boxes or console compartments. But when new hunters and strange vehicles start spilling over into adjacent private land owned by folks who have always permitted their friends, classmates, teammates and neighbors to hunt — often stopping on fine fall days for warm conversation — well, let’s just say the owners are not always so welcoming to folks they’re meeting for the first time, strangers taking the liberties they’ve seen from afar other folks with personal connections take.

Hunters should know it’s never safe to assume that just because you see a vehicle parked out at the back of someone’s hayfield that everyone has the same privileges. Upon discovering a new place to hunt, it’s always best to find out who owns the property, seek out that owner, introduce yourself, ask permission and learn the ground rules, asking considerate questions like, “Is there anywhere you don’t want me to hunt or park?” By making bold assumptions and driving across private land like it’s yours, you can ultimately ruin it for everyone.

Truth be told, I’ve suspected for the past couple of years, judging from what I’d seen in passing, that things were about to change on a rich wetland where my roots lie deep; and I even went so far as to warn a couple people to be careful as I reduced my own presence and waited for the changes to unfold. Then, a little more than a month ago at an archaeological dig bordering ancient family acreage, a man with indisputable insight warned me it was coming.  I quickly reiterated my warning to a few friends and have intentionally stayed away this year since the season opened. Well, sure enough, Wednesday morning the inevitable phone call finally came. Yes indeed, one of the folks I had warned, a friend who had met the owners several times in my company, visited the site Tuesday afternoon, couldn’t find a parking place at the adjacent state covert, drove over the hump to the contiguous private covert and immediately noticed four trucks parked out along the brook cutting a vast hayfield in half. When he and his companion ventured out to see who was hunting and how they’d done, they found a band of unfamiliar orange-clad hunters milling about by their vehicles, stopped briefly to chat and departed for a different spot. Then, on the way out, they were flagged down by the landowner and politely asked who they were and where they were from before being informed that, unfortunately, times were going to change on the covert. In my opinion, posting was inevitable there. I sensed it coming long ago as more and more people found their way to the private side of the covert, and honestly, although I may sound provincial, I can’t say I blame them. If I owned it, I’d want to know who was hunting on my property, and if I wasn’t comfortable with the crowd, I’d put an end to it, too.

What’s interesting is that quite by accident I played a role in this sad development. Years ago, a fellow Frontier graduate was serving as Connecticut Valley Wildlife District game manager in charge of our pheasant-stocking and we were making small talk on the phone about “local” coverts we both knew well. During the friendly chat, it dawned on me to ask a question I had wanted answered for many years. That is: did they stock the place I called Balboni’s, an overgrown hayfield that had been very good to me over the years? I had hunted there for many years, primarily for woodcock and grouse, but knew pheasants always found their way to the covert as the season progressed. When he said, no, they never stocked property without the owner’s permission, I opined that the owner would have no problem with stocking it. Well, lo and behold, the man looked into the site, discovered it was for sale, tipped off the MassWildlife land-acquisition agent and the rest is history. Yes, the state promptly bought the parcel, a natural wildlife and wildflower refuge it soon “put on the map” as a Wildlife Management Area that has for 10 years or more attracted more and more hunters each year.

Talk about cycles, or maybe chickens coming home to roost. For years I’d wait a few weeks for that field to fill up with stocked pheasants from the nearby private covert, then visit it daily over the last half of the season, when I had it pretty-much to myself. Now, I suspect that just the opposite scenario will soon unfold, with the hunting pressure shifting exclusively to the public covert, which cannot hold many hunters at once, and many of the pheasants that escape them ending up over on the private posted covert t’other side, separated by a dense, wet, impenetrable alder swamp flooded by beavers. That dense wetland used to be huntable, holding many grouse and woodcock, but the vegetation is now older, taller, thicker, thornier and, even worse, much of it is underwater. But game birds can still find dry pockets of unhuntable jungle refuge full of nourishing seeds and berries.

My guess is that soon the private land will be legally posted, and thus no longer stocked but full of pheasants that will be out of play for most  hunters. In my mind, it was inevitable. I clearly saw it coming. Only a blind man could have missed it. Streams of out-of-town hunters and vehicles are seldom welcome to landowners.

And so, yes, another good covert bites the dust.

Drydock Blues

I’m starting to feel guilty. The dogs know. I can sense it, see it in their step, their demeanor. Hunting season is here. They know.

Problem is I’m getting off to a late start because I procrastinated on a few key matters down the stretch. Here’s the checklist:

1. Purchase hunting license (done);

2. Purchase hunting bibs (done at last minute, awaiting delivery, could get by with tattered pair  hanging in carriage shed);

3. Purchase waterproof boots (also ordered late, still awaiting package, no appropriate boots to carry me through before new ones arrive).

Oh well, no one to blame but myself. I shouldn’t have delayed so long before motivating, but in my own defense, I’ve been busy with other stuff, all of it interesting, dynamic too, more and more archaeological information coming at me daily; stapled documents, books and notes accumulating rapidly, piling up on my desk, a candle stand, chest of drawers, Queen Anne tea table. That plus an interesting home visit a couple of days after a lively public presentation in Deerfield. Yes, it seems it’s been one interesting conversation after another — some on the phone, others face-to-face — all part of an information-gathering process that should bear succulent fruit. It seems there’s always some new angle or accusation to ponder, the loose ends dangling here and there, willy-nilly in opposite directions like roots on an uprooted tree.

But, hey, that stuff’s gotta wait. It’s hunting season, I own two good bird dogs born to burst through muddy, thorny tangles, and we only get six short weeks to pound the swamps together in search of stocked pheasants, migratory woodcock and diminishing partridge. I remember daily youthful frolics when partridge seemed to startle us around every corner in my travels out and about looking for and often finding mischief. Not anymore. No sir. With our forests older and taller, partridge are scarcer, which isn’t to suggest I’m a proponent of bloody biomass rape to solve the problem by irresponsible clear-cutting that would indeed stimulate fresh new growth and a partridge comeback, not to mention dirty, smoky air. Wouldn’t that be selfish of me? I think so. Besides, I like forests with majestic hardwoods, cool upland ridges and hard protruding ledge.

Actually, above all it’s the boots that have me drydocked. I was trying to make a decision on a new style, hesitated and lost. Quite by coincidence and necessity a few years back, I threw on my Cabela’s insulated leather and Gore-Tex 12-inch “Outfitter Boots” purchased for deer hunting and, although hot, was pleased with the comfort and ankle-support. So, with those stiff, rugged, upland boots destroyed after a few years, I figured I’d look for something similar this time around, minus the insulation. When I emailed a Cabela’s contact person listed in my outdoor-writers’ directory for advice and didn’t receive an immediate response, I didn’t want to be pushy and waited patiently. But the fact is that I waited too long and am now paying the price, twiddling my thumbs and waiting for that familiar UPS truck’s roar approaching my yard. I went with the 16-inch waterproof Boa Snake Boots, although a little worried that they may not hold up to the punishment they’ll endure. We’ll see. What the heck? If I get three years out of them, I’ll be happy. If not, I’ll try something else next time.

I need a boot that will stand up to thorns, vines and hidden, rusty barbed-wire fences hugging the ground as I plow through black cattail mud and puddled depressions holding extended ankle-deep water from rains and overnight beaver dams. If these new boots don’t hold up, I could always go back to my old standby 16-inch L.L. Bean Hunting Shoes to which I was loyal for more than 30 years. The problem with them was that after a year or two (which adds up to 12 weeks of aggressive bird hunting), the stitches attaching the leather uppers to the rubber bottoms above the heel would break and leak. The new snake boots I selected are just as high as the Bean boots but lined with waterproof Gore-Tex top to bottom, no stitched seams to leak above the heel. We’ll see what transpires. I’m confident they’ll be fine, my feet warm, dry and comfy.

Something else that my friends wear and I’ve many times considered are those pricey high rubber boots you see English gentlemen hunters wearing in the field. Though knee-high and supposedly made of tough, space-age rubber, I have two serious reservations concerning durability: 1. they’ll tear in the thorny cover I frequently hunt and, more importantly, 2. they won’t provide the needed support for my loose right ankle the fellas shot up with Novocain at halftime of a high school football game against Mahar my senior year. It’s true, but no names. What were they thinking? Playing for a terrible team that won one freakin’ game in two years, you have to wonder whether it was really worth it? Looking back, I’d  say no.

Oh, how clearly I recall that doctor at my first UMass baseball physical examining the floppy ankle, holding it between his hands on opposite sides of my heel and wiggling it to check stability. Concerned by the range of motion, he suggested surgery that would require drilling a hole through my leg bone, pulling the loose tendons through it and fastening them to the other side for tightness. I wasn’t interested, assuring the man I could live with tape. So here I sit nearly 45 years later, still going strong on that balky right ankle which got me through the second half of that 1970 football game in South Deerfield, the painless throbbing eventually turning into sharp stabbing pain by late in the fourth quarter — all for the sake of athletic glory. Am I missing something, or is it ridiculous?

Anyway, back to my current predicament while awaiting hunting boots, I did make use of the idle time for backyard leave removal, then picked away at my side-by-side shotgun with paste wax that has it shining like a newborn’s behind. Problem is that the anxiety-soothing polishing activity uncovered yet another unexpected issue I am still at this point trying to resolve. You see, my European walnut stock feels a little loose and, with time on my hands, I sure would like to snug it up before it gets worse. Unfortunately, I don’t know where the screw to tighten it is and am unable to disassemble the shotgun’s receiver from its stock, if you can imagine that with a sweet little double-barrel I have owned for at least 25 years. On American shotguns and rifles I’ve owned, the stocks are typically attached to the receiver by a single screw that’s tightened with a long screwdriver through a hole in the base of the stock. Not so with this French double, and where does a man find a gunsmith these days? Trust me, I’ll find someone who can help but it won’t be as easy as hopping in the car and driving downtown. Not in today’s world, especially in a state unfriendly to gun owners. Maybe I can find some sort of instruction or a diagram online. If not, I can always drag out my 12-gauge Citori, which I haven’t used in ages. The issue is that to my knowledge I have no 12-gauge shells.

Oh my! Can it get any worse? Maybe I won’t get out at all this week. If so, I’ll feel bad for the dogs. They so love to hunt, and so do I. And hunt we will, promise, as soon as I get everything sorted out, which should have been last week but may not be till next week, eight days late, by then likely chasing stragglers that escaped the first furious push I unintentionally avoided and perhaps didn’t miss.

In the meantime, maybe I’ll kill time reading that Daedalus Online bargain-bin book I bought by Good Father Daniel Berrigan, one Catholic priest I can agree with on some matters. Better still, maybe I’ll hear that UPS truck pull into my driveway today, in the nick of time.

Old Jean Breuil wants to bark with both barrels, and the dogs are eager to “Fetch it up,” both sounds music to their ears.

New Sheriff In Town?

More than half my cordwood’s in the shed, the Full Hunters Moon is building to a brilliant climax and green stocking trucks are rolling for Saturday’s opening day of pheasant season.

Yes, the bird-hunting season is upon us and here I sit in a familiar seat, still procrastinating about purchasing my hunting license online. Imagine that! I guess times change as we age. But trust me, I will soon embark on my normal busy fall pheasant-hunting routine, starting next week and ultimately dovetailing snugly into my customary December vacation. So, first the license — just a hunting license, not sporting, for the first time in memory — then a new pair of sturdy waterproof boots, and maybe, just maybe, even new Filson bibs; you know, the kind made of the Seattle, Wash., company’s patented Double-Tin Cloth, an oil-cloth material marketed as durable enough to provide a lifetime of wear. Well, maybe for some, but not me. After three seasons, my bibs are always tattered and torn, in fact shredded and ready to be cut into patches before trashing them. That adds up to 18 short weeks of brush-busting behind my energetic Springer Spaniels, sliding through and bounding over dense thorny cover. No, I’m not complaining. To me, Filson bibs are the best money can buy. But, still, they only last me, likely at the high end of aggressive field-testers, three measly hunting seasons. It’s a time-tested reality proven many times over, hopefully many more if my chronic arthritic left knee continues to cooperate.

But I’ll have more than enough time to write about pheasants, marshes, gun dogs and wing shots as the season progresses. In fact, I’m anxious to watch Chubby come into his own, now 2 and entering his third season at full speed and agility. I know it’s coming. He’ll blow past his 9-year-old mother this year. Which is not to suggest Lily’s any slouch. No, no, no. To the contrary, the old gal can still hold her own, thank you. But Chubby’s just bigger, stronger and much younger, not to mention an absolute unharnessed bundle of energy, all nose and tail, naturally biddable and entering his prime. He’ll be fun to watch.

Till then, though, I’m still fascinated by and immersed in that Paleoindian archaeological excavation I observed back in September on a sandy southern Mt. Sugarloaf skirt. There, at a place where many years ago I picked tobacco and I shot pheasants over black Lab Sara, Paleoindians camped seasonally to capitalize on favorable topography for caribou hunting and whatever else they may have hunted and gathered there. Having watched Dr. Richard Michael Gramly and crew trowel through layer upon layer of dirt to collect 12,000-year-old, prehistoric treasure below the chocolate-colored plowzone, and having had the opportunity to talk at length to him and many of his loyal, experienced crew members, all donating their time from different parts of America and walks of life, I just can’t seem to shake the subject of Paleoindians and their Pioneer Valley travels focused around hunting for survival and clothing.

And now, could it be a coincidence that out of the clear blue sky, quite by accident, someone has stumbled upon and told me about a new development that suggests perhaps it was a good thing I watched that dig and asked those questions when I did, because such opportunities may soon be impossible if Massachusetts House Bill No. 744 is passed in the dark of night before anyone in the Connecticut River Valley knows what hit them. Presented on Jan. 17 by Peter V. Kocot, D-Northampton, and co-signed by Hampshire County sister Ellen Story, D-Amherst, the proposed bill — the genesis of which I’m still not certain of but have suspicions — is currently working its way toward enactment. If approved as expected, a Connecticut Valley oversight committee headquartered at UMass will be appointed “to preserve and protect the archaeological and fossil resources of the Commonwealth.” I don’t know what will change with a new Pioneer Valley archaeological watchdog on patrol, but suspect it will impact future exploration here. Stay tuned. I must explore this bill and its aims before commenting further. But I must admit that at first whiff the smell is unpleasant. I know who likely pushed the measure behind the scenes and why, while I also have spoken to many experts in the field who have reservations about these folks’ objectives, tactics and unaccountability, if not integrity.

In the meantime, you may want to attend a 2 p.m. program Sunday at the Hall Tavern in Old Deerfield. There, UMass anthropologist Elizabeth Chilton and former student Siobhan Hart will speak and answer questions about the Pocumtuck Fort site they have been quietly exploring on a ridge just east of Deerfield Village for 10 or more years. News of this presentation was not publicized in bold print on the Historic Deerfield website but was promoted on a brochure mailed periodically to Friends of Historic Deerfield supporters.

The long-lost, mysterious Pocumtuck Fort site, said to have been attacked by the Mohawks prior to 1670, has for almost two centuries piqued the interest of scholars and local historians alike. But in the big picture, it’s a Contact Period site that’s small potatoes compared to the nearby Sugarloaf Paleo Site, which is more than 10,000 years older. Most enticing about Paleo exploration is how little is known about these primitive human beings, with new discoveries and interpretation being made weekly. It is difficult to decipher precisely who these people were because time has erased their DNA, leaving behind only stone tools and implements and, if lucky, maybe some calcine (roasted) bone fragments and charcoal bits for carbon-dating. Having queried a broad sampling of the experts passing through the recent Sugarloaf Site dig, and read volumes on the subject, it’s clear to me that there is great disagreement relative to who these Paleoindians were and whether they were the ancient ancestors of the Indian tribes found living here at the time of the Pocumtuck Fort.

Some experts believe the River Tribes of our valley carried the genes of the Paleo people Gramly was exploring; others speculate that those genes vanished from our valley in northern pursuit of the caribou herds, which, myself, I find preposterous. So count me among the folks who believe that all the tribes who met European explorers disembarking ships along our eastern shores from the days of Viking Leif Erikson forward encountered Indians who had evolved from the nomadic, post-Ice Age Paleoindian hunting bands. Yes, there are those who will respond to that opinion by claiming I’m “uninformed.” But the fact is that neither my hypothesis nor theirs — that the River Indian tribesmen of 1630 carried no genetic markers of the Paleo people camping at the Sugarloaf Site — can be proven at the present time. So put that in your pipe and smoke it, and while you’re at it, pack it with a little of old friend Jimmy Pasiecnik’s medical marijuana if you will. Or, if that Whately entrepreneur can’t talk sense into the rigid town officials he’s dealing with, maybe Mike Ruggeri will soon be able to supply some primo green-bone filler. Will government pot-Nazis ever give up? Hasn’t this gone on long enough? Isn’t it inevitable that pot will someday be legal, no matter how loud Nervous Nellies from the Ecumenical Council wail? All this bluster is ridiculous, not to mention a colossal waste of time and money. It must have been nice back in the Paleo era when people were governed by the forces of nature, not uniformed officers enforcing laws enacted to preserve and protect the status quo, be it compassionate or corrupt, more likely the latter. But why digress … back to the Paleoindians, who slaughtered caribou with spears right where I dropped many a cackling ringneck rooster fleeing for cover deep into the foreboding Hopewell Swamp, still rich in virtually everything a man needs to survive.

Those who believe Paleo people disappeared from our region say they did so in pursuit of the caribou herds, which they followed north to cooler climates. There’s no reason to doubt that Paleo hunters initially moved north with the shifting caribou range because, like all human beings, they were creatures of habit locked into a lifestyle. But don’t people and animals evolve? Did deer, bears and squirrels leave our landscape when American chestnuts died of blight, or did they adapt and learn to survive on other available hard-mast crops? Does anyone truly believe that Paleoindians, who savored caribou meat above all else and chased the herds as a way of life, didn’t know there were also fish and fowl to eat within the same habitats? Weren’t they aware of other sources of red meat as well? If caribou moved to colder regions as New England warmed, wouldn’t the people who followed ultimately return to their old haunts, find that life was easier and adjust their diet? I can’t imagine any other scenario. Do you really need a doctorate to figure out such basic, primal questions of simple human survival? Not in a world of common sense and intellectual instinct.

All I can say is that I want to know more about questions like these. I’d like to connect the Sugarloaf Site to Peskeomskut and South Hadley Falls and the Hamp Meadows and a certain balanced rock and prayer seat I know of, buried deep in a place known to some as The Four Corners. But I get the feeling that if this House Bill No. 744 goes through in the dark of night without public awareness and scrutiny that future Paleo archaeology will be off limits except to selected pals in agreement with a small cabal of secretive stewards serving their own needs and padding their resumes.

I guess the least I can do at this late point is shed a dull ray of light into the shadow obscuring the bill; that and hope I won’t soon after its imminent approval be proclaiming right here in this space that I told you so.

More Paleo Patter

Does anyone else have problems getting their head around small encampments of Paleo-Indian hunters spearing to death migrating caribou funneled through a tight ravine at the base of Sugarloaf some 12,350 years ago? Yes, mind boggling indeed, yet quite real.

I suppose what makes it all so unfathomable is the sad fact that the typical American citizen taught in the average American school is lost in a very intentional Christian/cultural fog that deceives most into believing that New England history began with the Plymouth pilgrims in 1620. If creative, curious and sophisticated, you may even want to begin with Leif Erikson and long-lost Vinland, circa 1000 AD, still to this day being hunted by scholarly explorers. Well, let me tell you a little secret: It all started way before the Vikings, secretive Basque fishermen or a Portuguese explorer named Christopher Columbus, and it was happening right here where we live, dating back between 12,000 and 13,000 years, maybe even a bit earlier. That was proven this week by radiocarbon dating performed on calcine (baked) bone fragments collected on a two-week archaeological excavation led from Sept. 7-21 by veteran, soon-to-be 67-year-old archaeologist Dr. Richard Michael Gramly, a Harvard Ph.D specializing in Paleo discovery, with the ground-breaking Vail Site in western Maine’s Rangeley Lakes Region and many other important sites to his credit.

Not one to putter around procrastinating over scholarly reports while storing artifacts in dark, locked vaults secreted far from public view, Gramly has, since returning home on Sept. 21, been furiously piecing together the clues uncovered with shovel, trowel and soft-bristled brush by his veteran, highly coordinated American Society for Amateur Archaeologists crew. After packaging and mailing his bone samples to Beta Analytic, a respected Miami, Fla., lab he and other top archaeologists have for 30 years used to date material, Gramly has continued to diligently pick away at the artifacts, attempting to reassemble broken pieces and comprehend precisely what it all means. Beta lab has already examined the bone and dated it to 10,350 years Before Present, plus or minus 50, which, according to Gramly, computes out to approximately 12,350 actual calendar years or to roughly the date 10,337 BC … mind-blowing indeed. That’s nearly 10,000 years before ancient Greece and Rome, more than 9,000 years before ancient Egyptian civilization coalesced.

Wow!

Truth be told, Gramly was a little disappointed with the date because what he had seen led him to speculate the artifacts gathered at the site dated back as far as the Vail Site he dug in 1980. Beta Analytic and another independent lab dated the bone collected there at about 350 years older, some 12,700 years old. But hey, a layman might ask, what’s 350 years in a picture so deep? And although that sounds like a reasonable assessment, Gramly says one should be careful not to dismiss 3½ centuries so haphazardly, saying 350 years is not in any way insignificant in the big picture. Much can change in three centuries, including such crucial factors as climate,  glacier-melt and vegetation to name a few, and Gramly insists that archaeologists must pay close attention to the minutest details when interpreting prehistoric data. So, for the time being, he’s going to treat the Vail and Sugarloaf sites as apples and oranges, comparing the South Deerfield site bordering a sandy, agricultural Whately plain as a “sister site” to the famed Bull Brook Site of Paleo legend in Ipswich.

“That site sits 120 miles due east of the Sugarloaf Site,” said Gramly, reached at his North Andover home Tuesday. “We don’t know if we’re dealing with the same bands of hunters at the sites, or related bands, or if it was the same people migrating with the caribou herds from one site to the other. We may never know, but I’d sure like to know.”

Gramly’s most recent dig was his second at the Sugarloaf Site. Following his first dig — performed in 1995 on private abutting property that has since been purchased by the state and kept off-limits — Gramly wrote a book and gave all his field notes kept in India Ink along with reports and photos to Memorial Libraries in Deerfield. Not only that but he gave all artifacts to the rightful owners, the Whately family that owned the land before selling it under pressure from the state. That family has shown the artifacts to many, including New York scientists who are now trying to date them using new, state-of-the-art technology. But now Gramly has beat them to it, finally getting a definitive date after nearly 40 years of bureaucratic thumb-twiddling fueled by professional/academic competition and jealously.

Gramly’s top priority was to date the Sugarloaf Site, and that has now been done thanks to the many bone fragments he was able to collect. Actually, he could have sacrificed the only bone fragment he found on his last dig 18 years ago but refused because it was the only piece of bone he found and he didn’t want to destroy it. In the near future, he’ll also be submitting an exciting collection of charcoal discovered in more than one two-square-meter pits, including one uncovered toward the end of the second week that what was believed to be a bowl-shaped fire pit. However, Gramly warned, “Charcoal dating is a little more risky. Sometimes a tree can burn right down to the roots, leaving charcoal. That’s why I wanted bones to date. Bone dating can’t be denied.”

In the meantime, Gramly is working furiously to put together a PowerPoint summary of the Sugarloaf dig he plans to unveil a few weeks down the road in Portland, Maine, where the prestigious Eastern States Archaeological Federation is meeting the weekend of Nov. 1. There, with rumors likely already swirling through scholarly Northeastern archaeological circles, Gramly will likely blow the cover off the Franklin County site, which he implores has sat idle long enough and should be explored further in search of habitation and kill sites there. If he can supply the wind behind the sails, that Sugarloaf Site could open the gates to long overdue exploration of other important Pioneer Valley prehistoric sites, places like Canada Hill overlooking once-sacred Peskeomskut waterfall in Turners Falls, the Bashin in North Hatfield, Kells Farm in Greenfield, sites in Northfield and Hadley and Sunderland and on and on and on.

“I don’t know what they’ve been waiting for,” said Gramly. “I’m a scientist and the inactivity makes absolutely no sense to me. How can they continue to ignore it? Here we have one of the most important Paleo sites in North America, one we’ve known about for more than 40 years, and they’ve been just sitting on it all this time. By now, in my opinion, there should have been 40 or 50 doctoral dissertations to come out of that site and related sites right there in your home, the Connecticut Valley, an archaeological treasure trove that needs to be explored.”

Asked if it’s likely there are earlier sites in the neighborhood, Gramly didn’t hesitate to answer in the affirmative.

“Yes, it’s very likely there’s just such a site not far away,” he said. “Bud Driver has a drill point of an earlier style that showed up prominently at the Vail Site, and it came from within a mile or two of Sugarloaf. I intend to investigate that site and talk to the farmer.”

So, stay tuned: The days of public railing against this stuff as hysterical anti-development rhetoric and historical hooey may be over if Gramly has anything to say about it. My guess is that a new clamor is building intense pressure and ready to blow. New spokespeople driving the message will be unimpeachable experts in their field, and the old boys trying to discredit and demean them will look foolish indeed, if not intentionally manipulative and, in the end, uninformed at best.

As for the staid academic cultural-resource managers committed to silence in the name of protection and preservation, well, we’ll see how it all turns out for them. They may yet figure out how to have it both ways.

“Can you imagine the state buying that first site I dug to prevent further study?” asked Gramly. “They paid almost half a million dollars for it. Just think what we could have done with a half-million to dig it.”

Something smells fishy.

Unearthing Issues

I’ve found that most things happen for a reason. Take, for instance, Wednesday morning’s incoming mail.

Having heard the white USPS jeep pass a half-hour earlier while reading, I pulled my truck up alongside the mailbox to retrieve the mail on my way out of the yard to run the dogs. The first item to catch my eye was a flier from Cobb’s auction in Peterborough, N.H., the cover displaying the glossy color photo of a formal Chippendale chest of drawers similar in style to a friend’s recent purchase. The next item to pull me in was a pale, robin’s-egg-blue, greeting-card-sized envelope addressed to me below a paste-on return address from Kirk Spurr, the dean of diggers assisting Dr. Richard Michael Gramly on a recent archaeological excavation along the perimeter of an important Paleo-Indian site situated on a sandy terrace below Mt. Sugarloaf. Inside was a personal note and a compact-disk archive of photographs taken by Spurr, 83, and other participants during the important two-week dig performed by members of Gramly’s American Society for Amateur Archaeology on what is likely the hottest Paleo site this side of the Mississippi River, definitely sacred ground in the archaeological world.

Before I proceed, I suppose I should take a moment to explain to those who spend their free time perched in treestands with bow and arrows how a man penning an outdoors column can get drawn into writing about archaeological excavations. Well, all I can say is that hunting and fishing and the outdoors are still important to me, but not nearly as fascinating as 12,000-year-old Paleo hunters spearing caribou and wooly mammoths on my childhood haunts with stone, bi-faced weapons sharpened in an open-air workshop being uncovered before my eyes on Sugarloaf’s lap. Can it get any more interesting than that? Not in this man’s world.

But, back to Spurr — a man I observed performing various excavation chores, usually wearing a distinctive, tinted-billed straw hat, not to mention a palpable gleam of boyish enthusiasm — my indelible image of him was planted in my mind on a sunny Wednesday afternoon, Sept. 25, as the archaeological crew buttoned down its sophisticated, fine-tuned project for the night. My wife had spelled me in my son’s Springfield hospital room and told me in passing that a friend had left a phone message to say he was traveling to the site to meet an important Paleo scholar expected to arrive from France that afternoon. Good timing, I thought, having already intended to stop on my may through and see what was happening. Upon my arrival, I noticed local dig-liaison and Deerfield Historical Commission member David “Bud” Driver standing and talking to a thin, distinguished, bespectacled, gray-bearded man between the gabled ends of two barns stuffed with aromatic field tobacco. Driver signaled me over with his hand and introduced me to Duncan Caldwell, who I discovered was the very man my telephone pal thought I should know en route. Fact was, he was not coming in from France, though, but a place much closer, Martha’s Vineyard, his summer place of residence. What does it matter? He winters in France. Anyway, I spoke for some time with Caldwell, a fascinating man and skilled conversationalist who was most interested in historical context of the site I know as Hopewell, the plain and swamp below, which I was more than willing to provide. Our rambling, dynamic conversation lasted perhaps 20 minutes, stopping just in time to wander toward the picnic table where the work crew drifted at the end of each day for casual conversation and laughter.

On our short walk to the table, capped with a cooler-ful of soft drinks, a few colorful pumpkins and items of discarded clothing here and there, Caldwell recognized Spurr standing near a wooden-framed, wire-screen sifter resting on sawhorses along the edge of a two-meter-square hole and greeted him with a warm hello and smile. He immediately walked over to him, shook hands and wrapped both arms around him in a brotherly embrace that told me Spurr — a retired Ph.D chemist with a Dartmouth and Cornell academic pedigree — was not anyone you’d call an amateur. Caldwell, a world-renowned expert in Paleo-Indians, was obviously greeting him as a peer and colleague, someone he had worked with many times before and for whom he held his deepest respect.

“They call us amateurs because we don’t get paid for this work,” Spurr explained in his quiet, humble, Ivy League way, “but we have more field experience than most working professional digs, which are usually manned by young college students.”

Another big difference I have sensed between professional and amateur archaeologists from personal observation is hesitance on the part of the former go public with site locations and reports. Not so with Gramly, who I watched drop whatever he was doing several times to walk a new arrival around the site explaining everything, and then some. A true educator with youthful exuberance and energy, Gramly never showed a trace of impatience or a hint that he was being inconvenienced. On the other hand, local academics have been digging locally for decades and largely keeping their reports and artifacts hidden from public view in the name of site preservation and protection. Not only that, but these folks, the haughty professionals, pejoratively refer to Gramly’s crews as “amateur,” even though a cursory review of their crews’ credentials would reveal an entirely different story. No one can call Gramly an amateur, he who holds the same Harvard degrees as his most outspoken critics, not to mention decades more experience. And the same can be said for most of the men and women who follow him from site to site as a faithful, competent crew.

“I was happy to hear Mike was leading this dig because I know he’ll publish something quickly that people can get their hands on,” said perhaps the world’s preeminent Northeastern lithics expert the first time we met on-site. And although this source didn’t go into detail and throw anyone under the bus, I knew the target was the secrecy and perhaps hidden agendas of state officials and some local academics who carry their water at digs conducted under state permit.

Although I won’t go overboard criticizing the state archaeologist and her UMass minions who deny they are secretive, then refuse access to their reports and artifacts, I know of two local landowners who permitted important archaeological excavations on their land over the past 20 years and have yet to see an accounting of the artifacts dug or the reports written. One of these landowners even sent a written request for a report and had received back not even the courtesy of a response at press time. Yet defenders of state policy claim that all reports are maintained by the Massachusetts Historical Commission and can be requested by interested parties. Of course, that doesn’t mean such a request will be approved. In fact, I’d say it’s unlikely that John Q. Public Citizen, or a newspaper for that matter, would have much success obtaining such reports. If you doubt it, give it a shot and see where it leads.

Gramly, a sophisticated scientist at the top of his game, is likely now in marathon analysis of the many artifacts collected over 14 days in Deerfield, and I know from speaking to him on-site that he is in awe of what was gathered and will publish in a timely fashion a comprehensive summary of his findings, something average readers will be able to purchase and understand. It is also likely that many others who participated in the dig will write their own accounts describing what it means in an assortment of magazines aimed at scholarly and average readers.

It’ll be interesting to see where this all goes and what the “official reaction” is. My suspicion is that the wheels are already spinning, someone’s unhappy with Gramly, and something is about to break. But my guess is that officials who make and enforce the rules will be very careful. Remember, given a choice, they’d rather sweep this stuff under the carpet than stir up a dust storm in the press, especially when the facts could turn public perception in the wrong direction.

Seeing Is Believing

Tiny red rose hips are aflame and alluring as cornfields brown and swamps glow their familiar purple/yellow hue with the autumnal equinox and Harvest Moon behind us, the waning half-moon reduced to a faint, ghostly mid-morning spy in the clear blue western sky.

You may have noticed my absence the past two weeks. I was away tending to a life-threatening family emergency, yet another surgical intervention, one that nearly took someone dear. But he’s out of the hospital recovering, so here I sit, back in familiar surroundings, thinking about bears and deer, a book, and an important local Paleolithic site that was recently and quietly explored by an eclectic group of “amateur” archaeologists. The veteran researchers hoped to and succeeded in flying under the radar to avoid potential interference or obstruction, uncovering many extraordinary artifacts along the way in square, layered holes dug by hand with shovel and trowel on a sandy Sugarloaf skirt. But let’s start with an appetizer on bears to get it quickly behind us, then move to a brief deer observation before rolling up our sleeves, tucking our napkins behind our collars and diving into the meat and potatoes.

Mid-afternoon Saturday, seeking distraction from my son’s serious situation, I was reading in the bright sunny parlor off the carriage sheds, sun backlighting the pages through the large plate-glass door, when silence was interrupted by what sounded like a hunter firing five shots in a familiar cadence that immediately captivated me.

“Pow-pow-pow!” The first report sounded.

Then, a few seconds later, another echoing “Pow!” followed by a few minutes of hollow silence and a final “Pow!” likely the coup de grace. This barrage emanated from the wooded ridge west and south of me, cornfields below, orchards above, hickory groves in between. Is there a more likely spot for a bear to die on the final day of the three-week September hunting season? If all goes as expected, by the time the second segment of the split six-week season ends in mid-November, we may see as many as 160 kills, less than half the annual harvest officials deem necessary to stabilize a burgeoning Bay State bear population that could become problematic if it isn’t already.

I suppose I could ask a middle man’s permission to phone checking stations and compile a preliminary harvest like I always did years back, before all the stifling new rules and regs and state protocols. But, no, must be I’m getting stubborn in old age, have given up on weak-kneed kowtows so am now reduced to the pitiful state of waiting for press releases like the rest of the struggling print media. It’s not my preferred news-gathering method. No, it’s the state’s way, and I guess I must live with it as I fade toward what I pray will be a productive and creative retirement, maybe even one laced with genuine passion. I guess officials figure it’s safer to control all outgoing “news” nowadays, which, of course, becomes history by the time newspapers get it. Come to think of it, I haven’t even seen the spring turkey-harvest figures yet. Go figure. The season ended in May. Maybe the Westborough office’s calculator is busted. And they call this progress? Not me. I call it boooooooring and unacceptable, can’t flee fast enough from “news” like that.

Truth be told, I used to enjoy chasing down preliminary bear harvests with former professorial state Bear Project Leader Jim Cardoza, now retired. In fact, I looked forward to it. But there must have been someone who didn’t appreciate me consistently beating him to the umbers (hint-hint, one of few Pioneer Valley outdoor scribes with a longer reign than me). So now we have rules to assure “fairness,” that is a routine that provides all media with the same press releases at the same hour, guaranteeing that radio and TV breaks the “news” before newspapers. What gives? Are there not rewards for diligent pursuit by determined scribes who’ve built their sources’ trust? No sir, not today, even in a politically correct, dog-eat-dog, violent capitalistic society. Hey, isn’t that oxymoronic? Or am I straight-up crazy?

As for deer, well, what I have to say is hardly worth a new paragraph in these days of tight news holes — just that it amazes me how the deer I’ve been monitoring all year seem to bed down in shin-high hayfields nightly, probably out of sight to all but the keenest outlaws shining fields with headlights at night. I pass their matted beds daily on my morning walks with the dogs, most often two but sometimes as many as five right in the middle of dense red-clover patches. So put that in you pipe and smoke it, fellas, and file it for future reference. When the pressure’s on, deer will hide in swamps and fields where they were born. Bank it!

But enough trivial stuff … on to recent reading, a paperback review copy of soon-to-be-released “Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and the Teachings of Plants” — an important collection of essays by a wise wilderness voice named Robin Wall Kimmerer, a professor and member of the Potawatomi Nation who lives outside of Syracuse, NY, where she teaches at SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry. All I can say is it’s a blessing for those who murdered and drove her people from their homeland and stole their land that Indians like her had no written language way back when, because had they been able to articulate their message like Kimmerer, they would have gained many allies and been much tougher for utilitarian Christian mercenaries to defeat for the public good; oh yes, always for the public good, it defined by government greed and injustice. These deceptive leaders anointed by election create frightful demons, brainwash the uninformed and dazed to a state of intense fear and hatred, then send them off as twisted soldiers to dispose of fictitious devils.

I discovered Kimmerer in Orion magazine, a literary publication headquartered in Great Barrington, printed in Dalton and dedicated to nature/culture/place — my kinda reading. I found her holistic world view refreshing in the article, Council of the Pecans, then in “Braiding Sweetgrass” skipped over it and another essay I had previously read online about the human defilement of Syracuse’s Onondaga Lake. I would recommend Kimmerer’s new book to anyone, even political enemies who may yet see the ray of light shining in from a sacred faraway place where plants and animals, wind and water and the landscape are viewed a brothers and sisters, not servile beasts to be raped and pillaged for profit. Kimmerer fears it may already be too late. So do I. But it’s never too late to read the likes of her when searching for new wisdom and alternative thinking. What a sweet breath of fresh air she is. “Braiding Sweetgrass” is a great coffee-table book, one you shouldn’t blow through quickly. No, you’ll get much more out of it by just reading a chapter here and there and probing the depths of each dynamic message.

So now let me close with a few observations about that archaeological dig I observed intermittently between trips to the hospital in Springfield the past two weeks. The site is located close to Interstate 91 between home and hospital, and it just so happened to be on land deeply stained with my DNA and quite familiar for many other reasons. Led by Dr. Richard Michael Gramly — a respected, published Harvard PhD and American Society for Amateur Archaeology founder — his sophisticated work crew included a star-studded cast of experienced excavators, all of them present on their own dime, donating their time and paying out of pocket for lodging. Also randomly visiting the site on various days were many world-renowned experts in the field of Paleo archaeology, all of them passing through to observe the dig and add perspective. Among the diggers toiling for 14 days in the hot sun were respected authors, college professors, museum curators, magazine editor/publishers, and learned archaeological “hobbyists,” some retired for years and carrying PhD’s in other fields, not to mention brains bulging with valuable archaeological-excavation experience.

Why were these folks there, straddling the Whately/Deerfield line between barns filled with drying field tobacco and a long tall mound of dirt covering an important Paleo site discovered in 1978, yet still waiting for interpretation? Because, according to scholar Duncan Caldwell and other unimpeachable on-site sources, it may be the most important Paleo site in America this side of the Mississippi River. Google Mr. Caldwell, who I personally met and took on a brief tour last week, if there are any doubts about his credibility. He may be the world’s most respected Paleo authority. He left the site Friday headed for Columbia University, where he was scheduled for a guest lecture before departing for his winter Paris home.

Among the participating “amateur” archaeologists, all of them veterans of many Gramly digs worldwide, was a retired Connecticut brain surgeon and his wife — she perhaps the preeminent authority on Northeastern lithics — as well as a retired PhD chemist with degrees from Dartmouth and Cornell who’s been with Gramly from the start. That’s just a few. There were many, many others folks with equally impressive archaeological credentials.

All I can say is that now that I’ve seen “amateurs” in action, maybe I’ll get a chance to observe a “professional” dig. You know, one led by academics and state officials who delight in throwing spiteful stones at Gramly and his impeccable entourage. For me, seeing is believing and, my oh my, did I ever get an eyeful between trips to my son’s hospital bed. So stay tuned. I’m just getting started. Promise. Unless the state archaeological junta can succeed in silencing the messenger and keeping important prehistoric discoveries buried under long, lean mounds of dirt they ordered dumped.

The ice is broken. For that we can thank a daring and enthusiastic man named R.M. Gramly, a Harvard man who’s a rebel and a scholar. He’s twice displayed the courage to defy bureaucratic opposition and explore the important site, previously in 1995. And although he’s passed 70 and says he doesn’t intend to return in a leadership role, someone undoubtedly will,  maybe one of his protégés. Let’s hope so.

Candid Camera

The sky was gray, swallows skimming the hayfield, flying low, their glee palpable — swooping, darting, looping, but mainly hugging the surface, devouring insects in midair. The lively activity had Chub-Chub all revved up, sprinting, bouncing, cutting left and right like a gifted NFL receiver adding to his yards-after-catch in the open field. What a beautiful sight to observe, the athletic 2-year-old Springer Spaniel doing what he’s bred to do: chase birds. Even the birds, barn swallows I think, seem to enjoy the little game, staying just out of reach, teasing and tantalizing Chubby like that mechanical rabbit out in front of the field at greyhound tracks, never a chance of getting caught.

Actually, swallows aren’t the only attraction in the bottomland hayfields I frequent. There are also sparrow-like field-nesters that sit tight and flush only when the dogs get right in their kitchen. I find it curious how Chubby watches but really hasn’t shown much interest in those birds. Lily, on the other hand, aggressively seeks them out daily, has for months, loves to follow her nose into tight flushes. Then the chase begins, an all-out sprint. Hey, she once even caught one a month or so back, it must have been defective in some way. Strong survive, weak perish: of yes, the golden rule of nature. Plus there’s always the scent of turkeys and Canada geese, especially on damp, gray, low-pressure mornings that keep scent clinging to the ground, even though the birds are long gone by the time we arrive, their lingering scent still worthy of investigation by tail-wiggling bird dogs.

I think “the kids” know bird season is near. They’re not alone. I too am anticipating it. But we’re not there yet. No, bear season opened Tuesday, and it just so happens that I’ve run into tidbits of information here and there. So, let’s start with a follow-up on that bear that deposited the scat pile I discovered and wrote about last week, then move on to an interesting little tale I bumped into during an impromptu chat with a farm hand who hunts and has trail-cameras in the woods on the east side of the Connecticut River. The young, sociable man had not only an interesting tale to tell but photos to boot, a wonderful development for a man like me, always searching. I’ve learned that you never know what you’re going to run into if you just keep dropping one foot in front of the other, observing, your mind traipsing off into dark, dusty, hidden chambers, the moods running the gamut from utter despair to titillating euphoria.

But back to that bear scat I discussed last week. It seems the neighbors have been aware of that bear’s presence awhile, have seen it coming in and out of the Greenfield Meadows cornfields between roads named Colrain, Plain and Meadow Lane. Although the black beast’s around, I can’t say I’ve seen any more sign of him since he left that humongous, sculpted calling card for me last week. My guess is that I haven’t seen the last of this creature, though — just a hunch.

As for the farm hand’s tale, well, he stopped his small green tractor when we by chance met in a short wooded lane between a vast hayfield and a secluded three-acre plot known for ages to the owners as Hideaway. He was on his way in to mow clover, timothy and other grasses that have grown about knee-high between rows of Christmas trees, I departing. We often chat in passing, usually about wildlife developments around Sunken Meadow. I most often find him down there in the lower level. Not this time. No sir. This meeting occurred up above, where I immediately noticed some sort of a rectangular, camouflage contraption that looked like a cell phone attached to his belt. I could see he wanted to talk and allowed him room to preface his tale uninterrupted, me just standing, listening and waiting for the story to bloom. When he got to the meat and potatoes about a mysterious woodland pest that had disrupted his trail-cam, he reached for the cell phone, removed it from his belt and started sliding through screens of photos from a trail-cam card.

First, though, a little background, beginning with his trip into the woods over Labor Day Weekend to tidy up a couple of deer stands not far west of the sandy, tick-infested plain made famous by tower-toppling Sam Lovejoy in 1974. One of his setups was a tall ladder stand, the other a portable tree stand he was upgrading. It was near the tree stand that he had installed the trail-cam that captured the shots he shared with me. The camera was chained waist-high around a medium-sized oak to discourage theft. When he scanned the area looking it from the tree his stand was fastened to, he couldn’t easily locate it and immediately suspected something wasn’t right. Then, when he finally pinpointed what he believed to be the right tree, he could not see the camera and went to investigate, suspecting mischief. As it turned out, he had the right tree, and upon closer inspection, the camera was still chained to it. The problem was that it had been pushed down to the base, the camera face-down on the ground. Hmmmmm? This really piqued his curiosity, knowing a small critter like a squirrel had zero chance of accomplishing such a defiant feat.

Hopefully, the camera would solve the mystery, and indeed it had captured the entire process in vivid color. The culprit was a large male bear or boar of bruin, which must have been camera-shy; either that or unfriendly to new territorial invaders. The scene made it clear that the beast wanted no part of the unusual unidentified object chained to a tree on its turf and thus proceeded to do all in its power to remove it, possibly because it or the area carried detectable human scent.

The photos showed several shots of the bruin so close to the lens that it was impossible to identify the dark, furry vandal. But finally appeared a clear shot of the beast peeking around a smaller oak tree facing the camera, then subsequent shots of it standing up on its hind legs to scratch its back on the rough red-oak trunk, a comical sight to behold. When the big fella had soothed its itch, it visited the camera, which showed a close-up of the animal’s ear, followed by a blurry paw, then a view of the stony earth and dirty darkness. The photo dates indicated that the big bear comes through the area every two or three weeks, which could change once the acorns mature and drop. The young man hopes to get a crack at that large, territorial beast but would prefer it to arrive well before dark. The problem is that such a kill will create a difficult chore of dragging its carcass from woods, a project always complicated by darkness.

Perhaps my buddy’s chances are slim because he’s dealing with a smart animal that’s grown large for good reason. Photos display a beast that is intelligent, cautious, and definitely knows his terrain better than any man ever will.

But, hey, there’s room for optimism, given what my buddy knows. Sometimes even wise old creatures make silly mistakes, especially when chasing women. That’s what my buddy will be hoping for — one of those right-place, right-time scenarios we have all experienced or at caught wind of.

Omen Bruin?

Does a bear spit in the woods? You betcha! Sunken Meadow, too.

As usual, I would have walked right past the large, tidy pile along the edge of a thin swamp Monday morning had it not been for the grande dame herself, Springer Spaniel Lily, 9, who on her daily ramble around the plot smelled something new and intriguing, stopped, wheeled back, nose high and dropped it to the ground through tall weeds to a dense red-clover underbody. When I took a look, sure enough, bear scat piled like a dish of hard ice cream. Dr. Oz would have sung praise to the heavens, ladies giggling, for such a healthy specimen. I called Lily off before she did anything nasty with it and we moved right along, me with something new to ponder. Hmmmm? Why was that bear patrolling my haunts? Then I thought back maybe 10 minutes. We were passing two large red oaks standing tall and proud near the top of the escarpment lip looking down over Sunken Meadow, not 200 feet from the pile. After passing those two trees daily for months without giving them much notice, Lily had caught wind of something there and was actually interested enough to bust through the dense, tangled perimeter and venture some 20 or 30 feet through thin, mature hardwoods before looping back to rejoin me and Chub-Chub. Maybe it was faint old bear scent she had detected. Perhaps the ground below those two oaks was littered with acorns, although, curiously, I had seen or stepped on none recently that I could remember.

Of course, there are many other potential bear lures nearby, including a vegetable garden that drew a big bruin last year around this time, plus many expansive, ripe cornfields, some large beech trees, and a large riverside apple tree that’s overburdened with green fruit, many drops below. Yes, several potential reasons for a bear visit.

Plus, there’s always the bear-season factor. Could it possibly be that it was a wise old beast which sensed the opening of bear season next week, thus is taking precautions to get out of harm’s way in bottomland marshes. Who knows? Unlike award-winning scientists whose observations are constricted by narrow academic disciplines, I never rule anything out in the world of the unknown. In fact, just this week I read a fascinating Orion Magazine piece by Robin Wall Kimmerer, and Indian professor who suggests that pecan and other trees and plants are capable of communicating with each other, a claim that would for sure incite doctrinaire pleas to commit her for 30 days observation. But Kimmerer isn’t crazy, she just harbors a world view that doesn’t fit the consciousness of our “corporatocracy,” that coalition of government, banks and corporations that fuels wars and destroys the planet for profit.

But enough of that, back to the bear. I came equipped for a little field research Tuesday, toting along a small digital camera just in case there was anymore sign to evaluate. Plus, I wanted to check for acorns on the ground below those two large oaks, which, to my surprise, were barren. Definitely not what I expected. I have noticed acorns elsewhere and received random email reports indicating it’s a good year for them in the hills. Not in Sunken Meadow, where they don’t seem to be on the ground below or the branches of those two majestic red oaks. On the other hand, the most accessible beech tree appeared to be full of nuts clinging to the branch tips in golden-brown, thorny clusters. I assume those husks and the tiny, three-sided nuts inside will soon be scattered below on the ground. For that matter, they may already be there. I confess I didn’t bother busting through the dense wild-rose-bush border to explore the ground closer to the massive trunk of that tall, smooth, gray tree, a large leader of which used to reach out over the meadow before Irene’s powerful winds snapped it off.

From the lack of new sign Tuesday and Wednesday, my guess is that the bear, probably a lone bruin, was just passing through overnight Sunday and didn’t stick around, because there is no additional evidence along my trodden trail. I would have snapped a shot of the scat pile had it not been flattened by a tractor that mowed between the Christmas trees. Lily discovered it, dropped her head and slid down on her back, ready to roll with carnal glee before I ordered, “Leave it!” and we moved along, her with a manageable mess to clean. I knew there was an easy solution. At the tall apple tree overlooking Green River, I picked up a golf-ball-size green apple, teased slightly scat-smeared Lily with it and tossed it into the water for her to retrieve. By the time she returned with it, laid down and devoured it, what scat she had picked up seemed to be gone.

I didn’t venture into the swamp t’other side the beaver dam to search for additional bear sign, but did examine the tilled western edge of the upper cornfield and found not a track. I’d guess there’s corn damage nearby and hope the big fella doesn’t visit my yard anytime soon. If he does, I will definitely have a chainsaw project on my hands. A large limb reaching southwest over the road from my apple tree is heavy with fruit and will easily snap off if a bear climbs it for dinner. I won’t worry about it, though. If a bear doesn’t break it, I’ll have to prune it anyway come winter.

Before I go, a surreal little tale worth sharing. When it happened just after 1 o’clock Saturday afternoon, I went to the other end of the house to get my wife and show her the aftermath of the spooky scenario I had heard unfold on my porch. When I asked her if she thought I should write about it, she looked at me bemusedly and said, “Yeah, why not?” Because, I told her, readers may think I’m nuts. But I’ll take my chances. So here it is, a true, fresh story, beginning from the source.

My last two trips through the Bookmill in Montague turned up some interesting reading, two paperback books about Indians familiar to me since boyhood. One of them, “Black Elk Speaks,” is about the father of a Sioux actor with whom I as a young boy ate a buffalo burger below Mount Rushmore. The other, “Son of Mashpee,” is the biography of Earl Mills Sr., who I had heard much about from my dad. Mills was my dad’s football teammate at Arnold College in Milford, Conn. Since 1957, he has been known to the Wampanoag Nation as Chief Flying Eagle.

Having just read about the genesis of this chief’s name and flipped to Page 82, I heard what sounded like a door slamming loudly, followed by a furious sweeping or rustling across the porch floor, then total silence in the hot summer air. “Joey,” I hollered, thinking maybe my wife had on an afternoon whim decided to sweep the porch. When there was no answer, I knew she wasn’t responsible. Curious, I rose from my chair and walked to the porch to investigate. It had to have been some sort of critter. I looked through the door and saw nothing unusual, but when I opened it, I soon discovered what appeared to be a young crow propped up on partially opened wings, head up, back facing me a step down on the stone terrace. When I noticed the wide white band across the end of its half-fanned, V-shaped tail, I knew it was no crow and took a step down to get a closer look. The bird turned its head and I could see it was a hawk or falcon with a distinctive hooked, meat-tearing beak. I didn’t have time to investigate further because the stunned bird regained its wits, took flight, and attempted to fly into a ballroom window before vanishing over the roof toward Smead Hill. Weird, huh? Could it have been some sort of an omen from the Wampanoag Nation? Was Mills dead, his spirit in the neighborhood? My wheels were spinning to a shrill scream. The bird was not recognizable to me, yet for some reason, as I read about the naming of Chief Flying Eagle, it tried to enter my dining room.

Blown away, I walked out to my wife and brought her to the scene. When we arrived, I found three tiny feathers, probably from the bird’s head, stuck to the upper pane of the two-light, double-hung window closest to the screen door. I fetched a digital camera and snapped off a few quick photos, but being no photographer, they came out blurry. Then, just for posterity, I pulled the three little feathers off the glass and dropped them deep between pages of the book close to its spine. I Googled Mills, found that he’s 84, alive and well. So I dropped him an as-yet unanswered email attempting to arrange a fall rendezvous. I’d like to meet the man, will probably bring my dad along. My brother lives in nearby Plymouth.

What can I say? You can’t make it up. In my mind, the afternoon visit from that young, never-to-be- identified raptor could not have been a coincidence; not given the circumstances. No, to me it felt like an omen, of what I cannot say. I’ve read about many similar occurrences in Indian mythology, and they always captivate my imagination, get me thinking, wondering why we ever assumed we’d be better off without the indigenous North Americans that were here to greet us. And when I race off on that tangent, I admit it’s hard not to conclude that we may have been better off had we let them show us how to live on their homeland.

So put that in your pipe and smoke it.

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