Fearmongers

Gripped by severe cold, I blinked Wednesday morning. Well, sort of. Nothing serious, mind you. Just that I foolishly decided before testing the elements that I’d feed the dogs, humor them briefly out by the brook, put them in the box stall for the day with fresh water, and forego our daily walk.

Yeah, right! I should have known better. I’m a stubborn old coot, you know. So once I got out there and sampled the frigid, sunny, winter air under handsome deep blue skies, I found it bearable and rearranged my itinerary to include a “quick” walk through Sunken Meadow. Problem was that I hadn’t laced on my boots or my knee brace. But, hey, what the hell? The snow was hard enough to stay on top in my hiking sneakers, thus my knee should be OK, and indeed it was, even though I must confess our walk became extended instead of reduced. Oh, how my frisky four-legged friends loved it, scooting around with an additional hop in their step, probably churning extra energy to stay warm. I too walked at a brisk pace, the snow squeaky and hard as pavement, me looking and listening and marching ahead, one foot in front of the other, always observing … letting my mind meander into dark mischievous corners, always dangerous.

On the frozen upper plain, just before skirting the aluminum gate down into Sunken Meadow, I passed many tiny red sumac berries staining the icy snow on the elevated riverbank. The sight reminded me of the walk I took a couple of days earlier, on Martin Luther King Day morning, grandsons in town for the long weekend, me and 4-year-old Arie — a mere 16 months old when his father left this earth — walking the dogs to playful banter. Looking down at those drupe drops reminded me of the surprise visit a Brandeis professor had paid us from that day his adjacent home. The man wanted to introduce his Laberdoodle pup to my Springers, all three of them liver and white. Our brief interaction eventually left me pondering a comment I had made that may have rubbed him wrong. It was probably just paranoia, so I’ll come back to it later. First Arie, though, my cherubic blue-eyed boy who had decided on a dining-room whim to join me. He told his grandmother he had “a lot of energy” and wanted to go. I was happy to have him, me always eager for little changes in pattern, in this case human accompaniment on what is typically a solo mission.

We fed the dogs out back by the brook before hustling them into their crates for a mile or so ride to the site. Then, on the drive, playing on my sound system was “When First Unto This Country,” a Depression-era ballad off Grisman & Garcia’s “Not for Kids Only,” a CD of first-class duets by virtuoso finger-picking masters I often insert for long rides with the boys. The track is probably my favorite, with Garcia’s mournful voice complementing Grisman’s high, lonesome mandolin like they were made for each other. Well, at least that’s my take. Arie? Not quite.

“Grampy,” asked the little lad with no hesitation, “what’s this  song? I don’t like it.”

I wasn’t insulted. Unlike several other cute little kids tunes on the CD — you know, old standards like “Jenny Jenkins,” “A Horse Named Bill,” “Arkansas Traveler,” “Hopalong Peter” and “Teddy Bears’ Picnic” — this doleful tune about a crime of passion and its dire consequences was way over a 4-year-old’s head. Maybe I should have just let his query pass without going into detail. But that’s not my way. Instead, I quickly mulled my approach internally and gave it my best shot.

“Actually, Kid, I like this song a lot,” I answered. “I like the message, the mood and the music, especially the picking. Listen to that sweet, sorrowful mandolin. Listen to the man’s sad voice and lyrics. He’s singing about crime and punishment, love and loss, and about demons called immigrants. The man falls in love with the woman, she leaves, and he steals a horse to follow her. The word gets out, police chase him, catch him, beat and jail him … all for a simple crime of the heart. You know, Kid, I believe the thief would have brought that horse back. He was just borrowing it for something very special.”

Huh? That’s what the look on the boy’s face screamed at me. I wouldn’t call the reaction unexpected. It really was unfair to lay that trip on a kid his age. Yes, yes, an awful lot to expect a prepubescent preschooler to understand, even though he did fess up last year to having a nursery-school girlfriend named Jessie. Oh my, I hope the older patrol boys reported the amorous vibes to the proper authorities, and I do hope someone stepped in to warned the innocent little boy sternly of the immoral perils men and women bring when they allow their emotions to dance. But, seriously, the way I look at it is that it’s never too early to plant seeds of perspective that might down the road counterbalance what a kid learns in the classroom, at Boy Scout camp or Sunday School. Who knows? Maybe in the end he’ll prefer to travel beaten paths he’s pushed toward. Then again, maybe not. Irrelevant in my world. The question is: Should a teacher, parent or grandparent hide alternative thinking and unpopular opinions from his children and theirs? I guess it depends who you ask, but I say throw it all at them, allow them to process it and hopefully evolve into critical thinkers instead of hapless, dazed automatons of the preaching, praying, clock-punching flock committed to suffering on earth for a better hereafter.

I guess what I should now admit is that the kid happened to catch me on a perfect, unseasonably mild winter-holiday morning for heady discussion. Yes, truth be told, I was predisposed to philosophical argument, having just the previous night read three impassioned Henry David Thoreau essays defending abolitionist martyr Capt. John Brown of Harper’s Ferry fame. What’s strange is that I had never really investigated the tale of John Brown, just accepted the textbook illustrations of a fiery, gray-bearded wild-man, and teachers’ description of a dangerous enemy of the state and crazed anti-slavery fanatic who took down a pre-Civil War armory and was justifiably hanged by the neck until dead for radical treason. Problem is I have over the years many times discovered favorable light shone upon this incendiary rebel of proud, Puritan, Connecticut roots by philosophical and literary giants I respect. Now, mind you, the guardians of freedom and justice, wavers of red, white and blue, will call such spokespeople “revisionists,” that pejorative I long ago learned to ignore. But when the great Thoreau speaks, I listen, and he claims Capt. Brown was a far better man than those who executed him, or those who have evermore defended the verdict as justice aimed at the greater good.

Well, I must admit that my long-overdue Sabbath-eve John Brown lesson from the man who made Walden Pond and civil disobedience famous really got my wheels spinning to a shrill hum about a contemporary dissident “traitor” cut from similar subversive cloth. I’m talking about NSA snitch Edward Snowden, who I finally got to know thanks to a Rolling Stone magazine piece written by the same woman who penned the radioactive Boston Marathon bomber profile that brought throaty accusations of treason from mainstream-media blowhards. The question is: Is it treason to explain to the public why folks like Snowden and Capt. Brown come off the rails? Well, maybe so in a totalitarian state. But it’s not supposed to happen that way here in this hallowed land of liberty, freedom and justice — you know, the “free country” that now chucks whistleblowers like Bradley Manning into the worst military prison money can buy, and can’t wait to get its hands on the exiled Snowden for the same fate, or worse.

Maybe I’m mistaken. Perhaps as a young boy I got pulled in by eloquent intellectual activists who took their complaints about unjust war, capitalistic greed and institutional racism to the streets in the Sixties. Perhaps that’s why I’ll take Eldridge Cleaver over Martin Luther King any day of the week, and likewise Geronimo over Cochise. In my world, Che was a freedom fighter, not the revolutionary Marxist monster our military-industrial complex murdered him as. And while we’re at it, why not “Free Leonard Peltier” as well? Plus, I’d love to know more about Josiah Warren, a Massachusetts man and son of a proud Revolutionary general. Look him up — an artist, a thinker and ultimately an outlier, likely another pouting anti-Federalist who fled west to escape Hamiltonian aristocracy, banks and taxes. Did you ever hear so much as a word about this Warren dude in your American History classes? Heavens no! Warren is considered America’s first anarchist, a scary term people fear but don’t understand, kinda like immigrants speaking foreign languages.

Which brings me all the way back to that short holiday-morning chat with that pleasant Brandeis professor and neighbor. As we walked together toward the aluminum gate, little Arie trudging, all ears, I pointed out those red sumac berries staining the icy snow overlooking the river and said, “Look at that. The wind dropped those berries there to sprout anew and feed wild creatures that can’t fly or climb. It’s too bad people can’t coexist in such peaceful harmony?”

I don’t know if the man thought I was weird, or if he had a preconceived notion of how far he intended to walk with us. But shortly after my comment, he stopped, said, “Well, this is as far as we’re going. Nice talking to you,” and turned back toward his fenced, palatial home. I do hope I didn’t offend, or, heaven forbid, frighten the gentleman.

Arie wasn’t afraid, and that’s good. Fear stifles open minds and strangles free thinking. And here in this land of the free, home of the brave, it seems to be everywhere these days. Maybe we should have listened to Orwell, because indeed there is a surveillance camera coming soon to a traffic light or downtown building façade near you; and, yes indeed, NSA is watching and listening. The majority seems cool with such invasions of privacy to guard against the bogeyman. Count me out, thank you. I must be getting old and goofy. But is the majority always right, or even worth listening to? Unfortunately not, especially today when voters are so easily manipulated with hidden boob-tube messaging. It’s a weakness of our democracy.

Enough!

Off I go, like a flittering, fluttering David Grisman mandolin riff that on a good day brings tears to my eyes. The licks are that good, that clear, that free … rare indeed, and quite beautiful.

Faraway Feedback

It’s Wednesday morning, sunny and warm. I’m returning from a splendid riverside walk with the dogs when I spot the approach of a young fella I often pass and seldom speak to, he pushing a covered stroller eastward on Meadow Lane. Inflicted with ebullient, precocious spring fever, I slow to a stop, slide down my passenger window, say: “I hate to ruin this fine morning but, if you believe March is here, you’re wrong,” and flee like a mischievous woodland spirit, my home around the corner, column rewrite awaiting.

I get inside, slip off my re-soled Gokey boots, slip into Birkenstocks, go to the kitchen, pour myself a hot cup of Coffee Roasters Guatemalan Antigua, and head for my bright, sunlit study, books piled everywhere, space-heater purring softly. I intend to start with daily computer tune-up chores before putting the finishing touches on this weekly column, the first draft barfed out midday Monday.

I arrive at my desk and immediately notice my wife has left a little “reminder,” or maybe you’d call it a hint. The silver digital camera, black USB cord attached, stood out lying to the left of the keyboard on my cluttered desk. Unaware of the photos’ subject, I call my wife at work and end up downloading the entire batch into a My Pictures folder she had created, named “xmas 2013.”

With that unexpected chore behind me, my computer reminds me that automatic updates are ready to be installed. Hmmmm? Ok. I hit the install button, wait and — go figure — discover when it’s done that a reboot is necessary, forcing further delay. Restless, I remember, “Oh yeah, the oatmeal,” and rise, cutting a Cortland apple into small pieces and sliding them off the cutting board atop the oatmeal before adding almonds, walnuts and medium-amber maple syrup, placing the stainless-steel pan on the woodstove, and walking out back to snap a few pictures of the racing, rattling brook I’m writing about for the second straight week. By the time I return, the computer should be finished burping and gurgling and groaning and I’ll be more than ready to start adding dabs of color to my column sketch.

Walking to the backyard — beautiful day making things happen — sure enough, I spot my female neighbor walking from her barn across the street. A young nurse originally from Conway, we often talk in passing and Wednesday was as good a day as any for socializing. All bundled up and wearing a wool cap over her ears, I playfully ask when she’s gonna realize it’s a gorgeous day. She smiles and I add that, “It was days like this that used to get me in trouble as a young boy.” She responds with a grin, admits she doesn’t doubt me, and continues on her merry way.

Oh my! What a difference a week makes. Last week I’m writing about deep freezes and frozen pipes, this week spring fever. Isn’t it great how sudden winter warmth brings out the best in a stream, a meadow and a man, always bringing with it Satan’s lurking shadows, if you believe in that kinda stuff. On my morning walk with the dogs, all revved up by spring fever, my mind had wandered all the way back to Amherst 40 years ago, me hiking to campus harboring only honorable intentions on an inspiring, bright, sunny and unseasonably warm winter morning. Back then it took little to pull me into playful diversions that ultimately proved to be my undoing in the classroom and baseball diamond, even though I must admit I still believe that many of those little, spontaneous detours right past the classroom probably taught me more about the big picture than any pompous professor could have. Hey, I could be mistaken, but not in my mind; and here I sit, still going strong, curious and, yes, still defiant as ever.

But wait. There I go again, wandering away from where I want to go. Enough! No more unrequested stage props. No, we’re not here for aimless, rambling, stream-of-consciousness banter. I’m here to promptly correct an embarrassing mistake from last week. So why traipse off into spontaneous springtime fancy borne of unseasonable warmth, melting puddles, glare ice, corn snow and rollicking Springer Spaniels that couldn’t contain their glee racing along the roily Green River. Finally, the dense ice had broken, buckled and cleared, leaving behind a turbulent, silty, gray-green current bordered by shelves and random, triangular, streamside ice shards that looked like huge white tombstones pointing to the heavens. But, forget about that, back to last week’s annoying column error, one corrected by a most circuitous route; circuitous indeed.

God almighty, do I hate making careless mistakes in bold black print, particularly errors that qualify as sloppy or lazy, and this one did. But — horrors! — it gets much worse when you consider that the email “clarification” came at me from, of all places, Arizona. Yes, that’s right, from the Great Southwest. Hail, hail the World Wide Web, which can knock a man down a peg or two and keep him humble.

All I can say is that this cyberspace we’ve all become so enamored with can really keep a man on his toes. Mind-boggling. I identify in passing the source of my backyard brook as a muddy Patten Hill bog in the local newspaper and receive a rapid-fire email correcting me from the other side of the continent. I won’t soon forget it or, for that matter, the critic himself, one Russell Coombs, 73, a neighbor of sorts, likely even a half-assed cousin, whose family has for many generations owned an idyllic East Colrain farm on the second upland terrace above me, up by the historic Fort Morris Site. There, just north and south of that palisade French & Indian War fort, lie two of the major sources of my Hinsdale Brook. The other main branch flows out of East Shelburne along with four smaller spring streams and two similar little hilltown tinkles beginning in East Colrain.

What makes last week’s mistake most annoying is the fact that it was quite avoidable. Yes, right here in my face, atop stacked icons on my PC desktop, sits a tiny green map labeled “Terrain Navigator,” providing USGS topographical maps for every inch of Massachusetts, Vermont and New Hampshire; not only that but the capability to zoom in and out, compute distance and elevation, and perform many other helpful tasks important to a man like me. The problem is that — despite the fact that I have never physically followed my brook back to its source and obviously was either careless or unfamiliar with Patten boundaries when viewing the map — somewhere along the line in 16 years residing at the head of the Greenfield Meadows, I had somehow arrived at the mistaken notion that my brook started on Shelburne’s high, wooded Patten Hill a few miles west. Let’s set the record straight: The closest any of the previously mentioned nine Hinsdale Brook tributaries above my home gets to Patten Hill is about 1.2 miles. That spring bubbles from a marsh just north and west of Reynolds Road in Shelburne. A few other feeders are in that same area, yet a bit farther away.

“The Patten District isn’t far,” chuckled Coombs, who, like me, learned to swim in a branch of Hinsdale Brook at old Camp Shelloy, located in Shelburne, a mile or two up Brook Road from my home. “It’s just over the next hill. The Patten District brooks all flow the other way, toward the Deerfield River.”

Oh yeah. One more thing before someone chimes in to correct me once again by identifying another tributary named Punch Brook that feeds my backyard stream from the East Shelburne/East Colrain hills: although true, that little trickler meets Hinsdale Brook a quarter-mile downstream from my home.

So now I do hope I’ve corrected that embarrassing little column error from last week. For the record: Hinsdale Brook does no such thing as “bubble from a muddy Patten District bog” as stated right here for all to see in black newsprint.

Close, but no cigar.

Dire Wolf

That cold, sly, crescent sliver of the New Year’s first moon wore the mischievous grin of a city slicker peering down from the deep, twinkling, southern weekend sky. To me, the ominous message was clear: beware the Wolf Moon.

Who knew, the wind a howling, that developments were about to take a fiendish swirl around my frigid Upper Meadows home? I’d characterize what unfolded as interesting and eventful, all of it not necessarily favorable.

I guess the most fascinating occurrence took place out back on Hinsdale Brook, a Green River tributary that marks my property’s northern boundary, bubbles from a couple of muddy spring-hole marshes above and is fed by several other tiny East Shelburne and East Colrain spring creeks. First, the free-flowing, gravel-bed stream froze thick and hard, presenting a most enticing, near-florescent gray/green hue, small manhole-sized holes erupting in spots as the flow emitted a soft, soothing, muffled gurgle that could remind a man of the oozing emotional pain we sometimes hide under protective inner membranes.

By the time Sunday’s rains had rendered the roads sloppy indeed, covered with hydroplane puddles and salty, splashy slush, as adjacent meadows wore a precious-metal glitter, the backyard brook’s thick, bulbous ice sheet, still firmly in place despite a film of water overflowing the surface, seemed in the darkness to have risen some three or four feet. Upon closer inspection the next morning, sunlight confirmed my assessment while dogs Lily and Chubby ate breakfast on the cook-shed stoop. Not much had changed by the time I left for work Monday evening, though temperatures were in free fall, the roads and landscape growing increasingly treacherous. Upon returning to the scene just before midnight, steadied by a walking stick to prevent any icy spills, I immediately recognized change. From way out by the front of the barn I clearly heard that familiar, exhilarating springtime roar of rushing water signaling dramatic change. And, yes, as I approached the small barn-red cook-shed, the lawn dimly lit to the brook’s bank by a wide yellow V cast from a high floodlight attached to the peak of the barn’s gabled rear end, I noticed patches of disturbance along the glazed stream-side snow. Although I didn’t have the necessary light or energy to investigate thoroughly, even with the small flashlight in my wool vest’s left hand-warmer pocket, I knew something powerful had busted loose. What, I couldn’t be certain. I’d figure it out. Tomorrow was another day.

Sure enough, upon returning with the dogs to the scene under bright Tuesday-morning sunlight, I identified the snow-top debris I had identified the previous night: brown leaves driven asunder off the steep, solidly frozen stream bank. Accompanying the leaves and identifying the destructive path of a violent flood were many triangular, plate-sized ice shards grouped here, scattered there as far as 10 feet inland, most of them settled in icy, channel-like earthen depressions along a row of sugar maples. Wow! Nature had unleashed a powerful event. The water pressure under that thick, light-emerald ice must have first risen and then, aided by warming, ice-softening temps, busted through and smashing it open with a buckling fury only nature can muster. I could picture huge, temporary, vertical, pointed ice-dams capable of cutting you in half forcing the torrent to the side and over the eight-foot bank at along low spots. I have seen this phenomenon only one other time in 16 years at the old tavern nestled into Greenfield’s northwest corner. Luckily, my cook shed escaped damage by inches, the ice-shard trail disclosing all I needed to know.

Hail, hail, the brute force of nature, which you must respect, but gotta love. Well, most of the time, anyway. Yes, there are exceptions. Let me describe one.

As it turned out, the sub-zero deep-freeze delivered by that lovable old wench called Mother Nature wasn’t so forgiving to another occasional home-front trouble spot in the cabinet below my kitchen sink. Situated along a rear west wall where once a wooden trough awaited piped water from a strong hillside spring, the kitchen was renovated in the early 1980s, and whoever built it under-insulated the space behind the vertical copper pipes feeding the sink and dishwasher t’other side a cold, damp, shaded outdoor nook. Never an issue when temperatures stay in the positive realm, I have learned to take special precautions below zero by simply opening the cupboard doors and the one-armed-bandit faucet above,  just enough to allow a steady lukewarm drip. Then, when I awake to feed the woodstove in the wee, chilly hours as I do nightly, I discipline myself to the sink, where I open the tap to run hot and cold water at full flow before turning it back down to a warm overnight drip and snuggling back into bed. Even then, in extreme cold, I have temporarily lost my hot- or cold-water feed by daybreak, a recurring problem that has always been easily remedied by applying direct heat from an electric hair dryer to the affected pipe. Less often, the thin copper dishwater line will freeze and clog in severe cold. But even then I’ve always been able to avoid serious damage with short hair-dryer therapy. Not this time. Uh-ah. These days, with the kids out of the house and the two of us eating much differently, the dishwasher is used less, which can tempt destructive cold-weather demons.

Sunday was such a day, absolutely no signs of trouble until around 3 p.m. Watching a football game with the start of a new work week quickly approaching, I had risen from my La-Z-Boy to feed the stove and heard what sounded like loud running water. I found in the kitchen that the noise was emanating from inside the dishwasher, not the kitchen sink. When I tried to turn the appliance off for closer inspection, it refused to cooperate. I opened the door, noticed few dishes, no soap in the reservoir, and I yelled to my wife two rooms away to determine when she had turned it on. Huh? She hadn’t. I knew we had problems.

I called South Deerfield plumber Mal Cichy and got no answer, just an emergency number I promptly dialed. The phone rang. Cichy’s wife answered. She and her husband was in Myrtle Beach, S.C. She gave me his cell-phone number. I called. He answered, we spoke and he quickly diagnosed the problem before informing me that trusty, longtime repairman Fritz from B&J Appliance, also in South Deerfield, had retired. Uh-oh! Facing emergency when many other had one, I needed a new repairman.

My wheels spun and I remembered first the pleasant fella who’s repaired my washing machine on Home Depot warranty a couple of times. I went to the Internet, found him, called, got no answer, and left a message. The call was returned when I was at work. My wife answered and called me at work to inform me he’d be at our house the next day, would call first. She didn’t think he was who I thought he was, but I could see for myself when he arrived. The next day, before noon, I didn’t recognize my visitor, discovered he was the son of the man I was seeking. They own separate businesses headquartered in same West County town. No problem. Proceed, I told him.

The ordeal is now behind me, sort of. This new repairman, probably in his 40s, replaced a frozen valve before discovering by turning the water on that the thin copper pipe feeding it was split. He could handle the job but didn’t have the parts with him, thus had to return in a day or two. Through Wednesday, he hadn’t shown. I trust he’ll be back.

As for the job performed, the replacement valve cost $42, about a quarter of the $201 bill. Ouch! I wonder if these people know that a good job in this county takes home about $150 a day?  So how can a man working in that market whack you 160 bucks for a half-hour? It just doesn’t add up. But hey, what are you going to do? It’s America, land of the free, home of the brave and indebted. Repairmen have overhead, too. Oh well. I’ll get through it. The man assured me that he’ll only charge for parts and labor on his return visit. Oh boy! I can’t wait. But what can a man do? You win some, lose some.

In retrospect, I immediately suspected that new sliver of a cold Wolf Moon was some sort of ominous portent. Then, lo, my backyard brook exploded, and I took a backhander upside the head, with yet another wallop looming.

I suppose some would blame the rare polar vortex. Not me. I’ll call it Dire Wolf.

Myth Debunking

OK, time to correct the record. Uhm … well … let’s just say set it straight as can be expected, because, you know how hypothese can change.

I’m not here to apologize, and, frankly, have no regrets. It’s just that, having read and pondered and listened and spoken to scholars and authors and experts of all stripes in recent years, and watched archaeologists uncover before my fascinated eyes 12,000-year-old artifacts, well, my outlook on some bedrock concepts have changed dramatically. We’re talking about notions nourished in youth that take root and die hard. Like everyone else, I’m guilty of accepting at that young age what from some Houghton Mifflin textbook said and was reinforced by some misled, unimaginative grammar-school teacher who accepted it as gospel. I’m guilty only of listening like a good boy, accepting what I was taught and at times actually reciting these common misconceptions instilled in all kids by institutional logic and star-spangled history written to fill the loyal flock with chauvinistic valor. So let’s call today’s lesson a simple case of elderly reassessment, with me 60 and embarking on my 35th year at the newspaper of record in the county where I was born and my roots lie deep, yet shallow indeed compared to Native Americans.

I’ll begin by defining my goal in any intellectual endeavor as a search for truth, one unencumbered by ideology and knee-jerk opinion, prevailing wisdom be damned. Because, you know, what I’ve discovered through years of open-minded probes and ponderings is that such diluted types of pseudo-wisdom are often ignorant of the facts, often even intentionally so. It’s doctrine driven home by the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer, the finish nail a sturdy concoction of deceptive half-truths and outright lies crafted by clever spin-doctors employed to shape public opinion in support of political agenda. All I can say is thank the heavens rhetoric classes were still chic when I attended college, way back when defiant Sixties dissent and defiance were still palpable in the air we breathed. Without those Liberal Arts lessons taught in the dark, dingy bowels of Bartlett Hall, I would not harbor the cynicism and skepticism I in adulthood have so learned to value. Maybe innate curiosity and suspicion was in my blood all along; that and a hereditary anti-Federalist Yankee bent. Thus I was different, questioning conventional wisdom and refusing to embrace those crew-cut guardians of freedom, liberty and justice attempting to build legions of flag-waving Boy Scouts, polite alter boys and the truest of true believers. Somehow, I was able to see through and reject their empty slogans and pledges, their tidy dress codes and Christian ethics aimed at building conservative views framed by purposely planted misconceptions.

As I sit here in this familiar, comfortable seat for the first time in more than a month, coming off extended vacation time selfishly used to read, explore and reflect on subjects dear to me, I find myself — go figure — thinking back to the walk I just showered off from; it was a ramble that took me and dear four-legged companions Lily and Chubby through icy, crunchy Sunken Meadow, down by the free-flowing Picomegan. As I followed the narrow four-season path I’ve carved into the circumference of two adjoining bottomland fields bordered by a dense collar of naked rosebushes framing slim frozen marshland, it occurred to me how tempting it is, even for animals, to follow beaten paths. After heavy rains and frigid overnight temps, the snow was compacted and more than solid enough for the dogs to run comfortably atop without breaking through. Yet most often they ran ahead of me right on the trail, meandering in and out of the thorny rosebush border to investigate random swamp scents but always returning to our daily path. I remember thinking how then interesting it is that even animals prefer established ways?

Actually, I have noticed this many times in my daily rambles, snow or no snow, the path always discernible, me, almost always, and the dogs, for the most part, following it. For that matter, even the deer that stay in the margins to avoid us daily when we’re there walk our trail when we’re not. I see their tracks all the time. So don’t believe those who say deer vacate an area ripe with human scent. It’s fiction. I’ve many times witnessed deer following my trail right past a hunting stand in season.

As I pondered why my dogs seem to prefer returning to the beaten path, my cranial wheels started to spin to a shrill hum not unlike the sound of a mosquito homing in for a landing behind your right ear. One thought led to another, all of them relevant to where we’re going with this narrative. As so often happens when I observe animal behavior, I realize we too are animals, no matter what Sunday School teachers and PTA moms tell you. I believe that those of us who admit we’re animals and learn to accept and savor basic, primitive, wild impulses and cravings, are ultimately happier, psychologically healthier and overall better grounded, even more open-minded than those who spend their entire lives fighting such urges, fearing evil. Which brings us back to trodden trails; that and setting the record straight on any propaganda I may have passed reflexively along right here in this space over the years before I discovered reality, saw through the dense institutional, red, white and blue fog, which is never easy under constant bombardment by doctrine and patriotic idolatry along conformist trails. I learned as an inquisitive lad that it’s often enlightening to wander off such trails and cut your own, aware that it’s seldom difficult to find your way back if necessary.

Think of it. Didn’t caribou trails lead humans to areas they eventually settled along rivers left behind by melted glaciers? Was it not those same game trails, beaten into the ground by large ancient beasts and followed by primitive hunter/gatherers, that later led more advanced man from south to north as the climate warmed suitable for habitation? And as those migrating, evolving Paleos became Archaic, settled, multiplied and assimilated with other people from other places, were they not eventually led, perhaps also by animals, to nutritious berry patches growing on otherwise barren upland tundra. And wasn’t it they who learned to annually burn off these vast tangled berry patches, improving the annual bounty on fruitful, scenic ridges they kept open for seasonal camp and ceremonial sites where food was  gathered and celebrated? And, while we’re at it, didn’t the berries attract deer, moose and bears that humans killed for meat? And weren’t those same ridge tops and the slopes falling from them later invaded by hickory and oak groves, which Indians learned to manage for protein-rich nuts, not to mention the foraging meat animals nuts attracted in the fall, all the while maintaining open berry patches where they worked best in natural gardens?

Yes, I’m now convinced that the story with which we’re all familiar, the one about our Bunyanesque colonial forebears carving their hilltown farms out of primeval forest by felling massive timbers with primitive axes is romantic myth, because the first lands settled here were already cleared by the Natives here for thousands of years before them. The wholesale rape of our forests came a generation or three later, propelled by greed that ignored ecological balance.

When the French explorer Samuel Champlain toured the New England coast from southern Maine to Cape Cod 15 years before the Mayflower’s arrival, he marveled at large populations of physically impressive people who had cleared vast acreage for their maize fields within sight of his ship and up the major river valleys. Behind these fertile, agricultural landscapes stood open, park-like forests adorned with massive spaced trees on a barren understory cleared by seasonal fires that removed brush, vermin and poisonous serpents. A decade later, English explorer John Smith of Jamestown fame visited the same region traveling in the opposite direction and described a veritable slice of paradise he feared to be off-limits due to the large populations of physically imposing, healthy Indian tribes permanently settled in impressive coastal villages. At the same time Smith was exploring our New England coast, Dutchmen were sailing from Long Island Sound up the Connecticut River to just above Hartford. They too reported a populous agricultural valley, which, even though it wasn’t then known, extended all the way to busy Pocumtuck villages in Deerfield/Greenfield, where four rivers flowed into the Connecticut River near sacred fishing and ceremonial falls called Peskoumskut, taking a sharp left turn below an ancient village site called Wissitinnewag. But then came disease epidemics from overseas that ravaged the Native population and wiped out more than 90 percent of many villages, leaving prime, open, cultivated land ready to be claimed and settled.

The first PioneerValley towns incorporated by colonials were Springfield, Northampton, Hadley, Hatfield, Deerfield and Northfield, all of which presented cleared riverside acreage that was rich and ready for settlement between 1636 and 1675. Then, by the time outlying areas in the eastern and western hills opened up in the early 18th century, even though much of it had become thickly overgrown with infant forest brought about by Indian exodus and demise, it would not have been as daunting a task to clear as patriotic historians would lead you to believe. In fact, had the frontiersmen been willing to take a lesson from their Native predecessors and put a torch to the dense, young, reforested openings, the clearing process would have been fast indeed.

Don’t let anyone kid you — the settlement pattern in what are now our western hilltowns of Conway, Ashfield, Buckland, Heath, Charlemont and beyond began around habitation sites left open by a noble race that occupied the territory for hundreds, perhaps even thousands of years prior. Take it to the bank that Conway’s first settler, Cyrus Rice, was led to his farm by a prominent Indian trail and staked his claim at a pretty promontory clear and lived upon for centuries before he discovered it. Remember, the Norwottucks who occupied the sandy terraces on Mt. Sugarloaf’s southern skirt claimed as their last refuge following the French & Indian War a place called Indian Hill, now Whately Glen. The site of Rice’s farmstead sits on an extension of that wooded upland terrace, which was likely maintained as a nut grove and fall hunting ground by contact-period Indians, who would have moved their wigwams a mile or two to set up temporary annual campsites used over and over again for fall hunting chores. No problem. That’s when men were men, and women were in many ways their equal as physical laborers.

Unlike European Christians who viewed life as a linear journey, Indians’ world view worked in circles. When Indians met in council, they sat in a circle, which had no starting and ending point, no seat more powerful than another, a sphere where everyone’s observations and opinions were received without interruption, anger or insubordination accusations. Find a business or organization that works like that today in our ranked corporate world and you’re very likely viewing a successful operation, one receptive to open and honest discussion aimed at improvement. Which reminds me that I myself have come full circle, right back to those days of the old Bartlett Hall rhetoric lectures. We’d study news accounts of the same incidents and events from different political perspectives, as presented in various newspapers, magazines and television sources, comparing the spin, analyzing the motives. Time and again the professor reminded us with a wry grin that you can’t believe everything you read in newspapers and magazines, or see on nightly TV news. We were taught to dissect stories, read many accounts and explore what really happened, why various accounts and official government statements were often contradictory. Well, never has “news” been more suspect than it is in today’s Orwellian America ruled by intentional, invisible TV manipulation aimed at consumerism and patriotic loyalty. But, if diligent and open-minded, you can still find a route to the truth.

A case in point is the enduring controversy surrounding certain local Indian issues pertaining to long-lost villages, sacred fishing sites and sandbank burial grounds, all of which have endured heavy-handed misinformation campaigns reaching deep into local and state government, institutions of higher learning and, yes, the media. But the truth is out there for the taking with a little legwork. No! Strike that. A little legwork won’t cut it. There are way too many clever obstacles constructed by powerful people with political and economic agendas, and vociferous rabble support. Yes, it can be a toil to uncover the unvarnished truth, cut through the media fog. To get there, you must cut your own path through a dense, foreboding swamp, uninviting indeed but still among Mother Earth’s most fertile ground, in places rich moist soup that’s capable of swallowing a man with one pornographic gulp from deep. oily-black mud.

It’s a treacherous morass worth braving. The alternative is to believe your grammar-school textbooks, punch your time card, salute patriotic symbols, genuflect to alters glittering gold and, most important of all, shut the fuck up.

Lucifer’s Loop

I’m coming down the homestretch toward my annual December vacation, scurrying to tie up loose ends and button down fall chores on the home front before Thanksgiving while joyously following the dogs daily through alders, cattails and thorny clumps that’ll put a careless man flat on his face before he knows what hit him. Only the cautious escape unscathed … most of the time.

I can be thankful indeed that six of the annual seven cords of hardwood I burn in my soapstone stove are under cover in the bloated woodshed— the majority of it high-BTU black locust — and that most of the yard work’s behind me, the cellar sealed tight against howling winter winds. Hopefully, once Turkey Day passes, I’ll be able to just sit back for a restful month, reading a writing and continuing to study the prehistory of Franklin County, focused, as always, on the center of it all, the falls called Peskeomskut and the hill overlooking it from the west, called Canada Hill by some and identified by the archaeological firm hired to explore it in 1996 as a continual multi-village and ceremonial site for more than 10,000 years. Yes, one must dig deep to find a copy of that buried 1996 draft, but it’s out there and represents a radically different story from the “official word” of the Penrick pro-growth gang. But, really, I’m getting a little ahead of myself here; more reading and probing required. I’m getting there, have key sources lined up. There’ll be time after vacation to delve in. It could get radioactive.

But, first, the subject that’s overwhelmed my thoughts the past week is a bizarre occurrence that unfolded before my own eyes last Thursday afternoon along the southwestern border of a dense Hadley swamp I frequent during pheasant season. There, for the second straight season, I encountered a most unfortunate and troubling development that just doesn’t sit right with me. Everyone with whom I have shared this sorry tale has implored me to inform the authorities. So, yes, I will report it in my own way, right here in this the space, where I have often aired grievances for more than 30 years.

With renewed interest sparked by a recent trip to Portland, Maine, for an annual archaeological conference, I had spent last Thursday morning reading an old book about French explorer Samuel Champlain, whose astute observations and detailed maps of the New World, and especially our Northeast, are still quite important to scholars trying to understand North America prior to the great European epidemics that wiped out much of the indigenous population before the Mayflower. I knew I was going to hunt later that day, but because it would be solo, I was in no hurry to fulfill my commitment to the dogs, who get only six weeks to perform the chore they were bred to master: that is pursuing, flushing and retrieving game birds for wing-shooters. I had already decided upon the Hadley site, a vast wetland I hadn’t hunted for about a week, thus figured it could be productive with a little leg work.

Finally, about noontime, I was ready to mobilize. I bookmarked the new chapter I had reached, laid the faded, red-cloth hardcover atop a stack of magazines under the lamp on an adjacent candlestand, and rose to put on my hunting garb, it warm and supple, draped over chairs next to the woodstove, the morning application of silicon dry on my boots, my knee brace pungent when near.

With my gun case and vest packed in the truck, I backed it around the barn’s southwest corner and Lily and Chubby were standing eager at the kennel door, wagging their tails enthusiastically. When I hopped out to drop the tailgate and open the porta-kennel doors, impatient Lily started barking like only a scolding menopausal lady can (the poor gal, I had to spay her after a final difficult litter). I swear the dogs recognize my Tin-Cloth bibs, because when I’m wearing them, Lily barks louder and Chubby wags harder, like they’re both saying,”Come on, Dude, what are you waitin’ for?”

First, though, I went into the cook shed, dropped a scoopful of high-protein nuggets into both of the dogs’ cast-iron skillets, placed the pans on each side of an old, centered millstone set flush in the concrete floor, walked to the kennel and opened the door. The dogs know the drill. They sprinted to their food, Chubby taking the pan on the right, Lilly the one on the left, and inhaled the food before racing to the truck and leaping into their port-kennels for a ride. It never takes any coaxing when they know we’re going hunting.

In a half-hour or less, I arrived at the familiar covert only to discover someone else hunting there, rare indeed at this particular spot. “Oh well,” I thought, “I’ve been meaning to hunt the other side, anyway. Today’s as good a day as any.”

Complicating matters a bit was the memory still fresh in my mind of my last unforgettable trip through that swamp on the final day of the 2012 season. Hunting that day with old softball buddy Cooker from Northampton, Chubby mysteriously disappeared, didn’t come when called and, when I went looking for him, his whines identified his location and told me he was in distress. When I found him, he was acting peculiar, as though he was restrained and unable to escape. Upon closer inspection, I found him snared in a leg-hold trap chained to a small nearby tree. When the dog wouldn’t let me open the trap, Cooker assisted, holding the dog and petting him as I released the tension with my hands. Free at last, young Chub-Chub was off and running like he had upon exiting the truck, showing no apparent injuries.

I knew the trap was illegal but didn’t want to press the issue and figured I’d just let it go, although the image of that dog trapped around the front left paw irritated me for weeks, maybe months, and I was still thinking about it last week. Let’s just say I had formed a new kind of “respect” for the site and leave it at that. Yet who would have ever guessed it could, and indeed was about to, get worse?

Yes, last Thursday, bulling my way through the absolute worst tangles of a particularly tangly season on a cool, sunny day, I realized I had lost track of Lily after struggling to get past a small deadfall buried deep in head-high swamp grass laced with dagger-like briars that already had me bleeding from the right cheek. Finally, after stomping down hard on the dead, dry trunk with my right boot and breaking it clean through, I reached down and pulled it enough to the side to get through without tripping. Then I immediately noticed Chubby all jacked up and willed myself forward through dense brush anticipating a quick flush along a gnarly fencerow that has been productive over the years. The dog kept quartering back to the same spot, tail wagging furiously, bounding and snorting, what we who have learned to read gun dogs call “indicating.”

Anyway, focused on Chubby, I again  lost track of Lily for a few minutes, then wondered where she was because I hadn’t seen or heard her thrashing through the brush for a while. I whistled and waited, whistled and waited, and waited some more. No Lily. I reached for my Tri-Tronics remote-control and buzzed her collar with a sound that almost always brings her back promptly. Still, no Lily. Then I heard her barking. Not frantic, panicked barking, but a tone that got my attention nonetheless. Let’s just say barking isn’t part of Lily’s normal hunting repertoire, unless maybe she’s treed a flush. Plus, I knew the sound was coming from the area where Chubby had been trapped on the final day of the season last year.

Sure enough, when I arrived within sight of my 9-year-old, liver-and-white spaniel, there she sat in an unusual manner licking at her belly. I knew something was wrong. When I looped around though a tight opening and squatted down to her side, I could see she was caught in a wire-cable body snare fastened to the same small tree to which the leg-hold trap had been attached. When I tried to investigate the loop lassoed tightly around her waist, just behind her hips, Lily would have none of it, biting softly at my hands and forearms to keep me at bay. When I tried but was unable to detach the cable from the tree, I knew I had problems and must seek help. Only some kind of wire cutters would set her free, and I wanted to get such a tool quickly, fearing she may struggle and injure herself trying to follow me.

I unloaded my double-barrelled shotgun, broke open the breech, put it over my shoulder and walked with Chubby to a residential neighborhood a couple of hundred yards to the east. There, I walked though a backyard garden, around a garage and noticed through the living-room window a lady reading in a La-Z-Boy recliner. I knocked timidly on the window. She saw me, rose  sheepishly and came to the porch door, where I apologized for the intrusion and explained my predicament. My dog was trapped in a body-snare and I needed something that would cut through metal cable. Concerned, the woman called to her husband (luckily a hunter); he appeared, we walked to the tool shed and eventually the three of us walked to the scene with a pair of tin snips. Because the couple owned a French Brittany Spaniel gun dog themselves and were concerned for its safety, they wanted to see exactly what they were dealing with in their own backyard. Can you blame them? Well, this I can say with confidence: they came away disturbed, didn’t think it was OK.

When we got to Lily, she was standing on all fours, not looking particularly distressed. But her disposition quickly changed when we reached her. Then she was nervous and wouldn’t let us near the tight wire loop around her waist. It was a good thing I had help, because I could not have freed that dog alone. I had to hold her down by the collar with my left hand and extend my right arm back to the cable to pull up as much slack as I could with my forefinger, clearing enough space for the man to squeeze the bottom blade of the snips underneath. It was not easy an easy task — the woman holding and soothing Chubby as his mother at times wailed like we were tearing out her liver — but after 15 or 20 minutes, she was cut loose. Lily stood and didn’t hesitate to bound through the dense grass like she had before getting snagged. Undaunted and unharmed, she was ready to resume the hunt. Not me. I was ready to call it a day.

When I got home, I immediately called a friend who years ago trapped for supplemental income. I had to tell him what had happened, figuring he’d have a little insight. When I praised whoever it was that set that trap for being clever, he chuckled to correct me. “It’s not like he made the thing up by himself,” he informed me. “You can buy those things all made up, cheap, by the dozen. Google it if you don’t believe me.”

I think in the future I’ll avoid that spot that’s been so good to me over the years. Talk about weird. Can you imagine running into such a thing? And who knows what other dangers are lurking at this peaceful spot recommended by a former Connecticut Valley Wildlife District game manager and fellow Frontier alum?

My guess is that a man of his ilk would react to such an incident different than me, turning it over to law enforcement.

Traps like that are illegal, and cruel. What if it had wrapped around Lily’s neck and killed her? Well, that would have enraged me.

Adjustments

The grandsons were in town over the weekend, bringing with them a nasty, contagious, Vermont elementary school virus my immune system couldn’t fight off. Thus I’m a little under the weather yet maintaining my regular routine, sort of, with the help of Alka-Seltzer Plus.

It’s Wednesday. I just left the dogs out in the kennel, and they’re all fired, anticipating a hunt. Oh, how they love cold, clear November air and bright, sunny fall skies; better still, damp, gray and cold, low pressure, scent clinging low to the ground. When I assured them I’d be back for a swamp romp, their tell-tails told me they understood. First, though, it’s column day.

Yesterday, Tuesday, after a few days picking away at homestead chores  — I seldom hunt Saturdays or holidays anymore because of the crowds — I went out briefly in the morning and never got a flush in an area I in the past hunted two or three times a week but hadn’t visited in 20 years before last week. Then an insider’s tip drew me back to the familiar site. That day, my buddy had called to chat about another subject and during our rambling conversation told me he had walked his dogs there that morning and they flushed four pheasants from the eastern border of a dense swamp and marshy ponds I know well. A hunting buddy called a few minutes after we hung up, I told him to meet me there, and, yes, we killed two rapid-fire cock birds in a half-hour, one of them sporting an elusive Hatfield Fish & Game Club tag to add to my historic field-lanyard collection. It’s the only blue tag among many silver ones, so it sticks out and, no, it’s not gonna make it back to Hatfield for the annual raffle drawing of submitted numbered tags.

Upon awakening Tuesday, I felt like maybe I should stay home and rest but knew the dogs must be getting itchy, so I hoped to take them out if I could get my feet under me. Unsure of where to go, I figured why not return to that big, dense swamp and probe it a little deeper to see what came flying out? Figuring it’d be as good a place as any to hunt, I loaded the dogs into the truck for a noontime romp that had potential but ultimately bore no fruit; well, no birds, at least, which in no way implies that the meandering, mile-long maneuver through swampy, thorny, vine-tangled terrain dotted with thick cattail clumps I skirted on a cool, damp day wasn’t pleasing indeed.

When we returned to my truck with an empty gamebag, I didn’t know if I had another hunt in me but left the option open, figuring I’d take a circuitous route home to Greenfield through old, trusted pheasant country, aimed particularly at one covert I still hunt when vacant. Once there, not a hunter to be seen, so I slowed down and, not up to par, figured multiple hunters had already been through the spot and accelerated homeward, where sat a pile of exciting, nearly completed archaeological reading that could well develop into something quite radioactive to write about. But more on that another day. Let’s stay focused on hunting today.

For some reason, on that pleasant Tuesday drive, passing one site after another that once got stocked but does no longer, I quite out of the blue got to thinking about a conversation I had more than 30 years ago with then MassWildlife Game Manager Bill Pollack. When I told him where I worked, he immediately warmed up, said he knew the area well, having graduated from UMass/Amherst and hunted birds in the Amherst/Hadley/Sunderland area for decades. Then this fond reminiscence plummeted into somber lament for the coverts lost to development and highways over the years. He called it sad that the area no longer looked like it did during his school days, circa 1950, when there were more farms and fields and fence-rows and swales, and less sprawl.

“Trust me,” he cautioned, “It won’t get better.”

Well, no truer words could have been spoken, and those prophetic words have never left me, echoing through my consciousness now and again.

Which brings us to the present. How could I not think of Dave Vachula, the big Hatfield right-hander, and neighboring farmer Bob Thayer as I drove through Bradstreet, the site of many productive hunts 30 years ago, accompanied by friends like Timmy Dash, Bruce Van Boeckel and Tommy Valiton, all dead and gone. Yes, back in those days, privately owned acreage along what I call Hopewell Swamp was generously stocked by the state at many locations between Hatfield Pond and the base of Mt. Sugarloaf. Not only that but so was Hopewell Plain above and the Connecticut River floodplain below, right to the riverbank, spreading out the birds and hunting pressure, which makes hunter-conflicts far less likely. Nowadays, the stocking routine has changed dramatically, due mostly, I guess, to all the land gobbled up during MassWildlife’s aggressive land-acquisition program over the past three decades. Although I can’t say I view the current program negatively, it has definitely changed the Pioneer Valley pheasant-stocking philosophy and where I most often hunt.

Today, state Wildlife Management Areas get the lion’s share of birds, receiving two stockings per week, while many of the private coverts that used to get weekly birds get none. This 21st-century routine creates crowded state coverts, where parking can be a challenge and hunting has become strictly put-and-take, leaving little chance for stocked birds to survive more than a day or two. Still, I have not forgotten what it was like years ago at places like the vast fields between the Pilgrim Airport and Hatfield Pond, or between the airport and Straits Road, all of it open to hunting and holding birds if willing to bleed a little in thorny, foreboding swamps to find them These days, none of that dense, wet cover is stocked unless the local club throws a few birds in for the fellas who kill them soon after release. Also, that whole plain between Little Egypt and Christian Lane, once stocked at several points along the way, is now totally neglected along with the big open piece between Christian Lane and Route 116 in South Deerfield. Years ago, you could take a walk with your dog anywhere out there and expect to flush pheasants, with partridge and woodcock an added bonus on the right day. Today, sad but true, you feel fortunate to find a random stray pheasant anywhere within that vast acreage, and and the same can be said of the brushy railroad-track edges along the western perimeter, once productive, now barren.

Yes, all I can say is that on that slow, winding ride home early Tuesday afternoon, I looped through North Hatfield, Whately and the Mill River, Stillwater and Wisdom sections of Deerfield, passing one covert after another that was once stocked and is no longer. Sure, some of that change was brought by development, but not all of it; in fact, not as much as the folks making decisions would have you believe. The fact is that there’s been a policy change focused on stocking state-owned coverts that draw crowds, diminishing the quality of the hunt.

I’m not belly-aching, just thinking back to the good old days and that friendly, visionary warning from a man nearing retirement as head of the state’s pheasant-stocking program, circa 1982. He said it wouldn’t get better and was right. So, now, here I sit, close in age to Pollack that day we spoke, wondering what I should tell my grandsons about the future of wing-shooting?

I fear the worst.

Deer Friend

Old friend Tom White of Northfield says the time is now for deer hunters to get in the woods, and the man has meat in the freezer to prove it.

He took care of the familiar butchering chores Tuesday, intending when I spoke to him on the phone that morning to skin out the 8-point, 187-pound buck hanging in his friend’s barn since he killed it on Halloween morning near his home.

“It was nice that the weather cooperated and I could leave it hanging for a while,” said White, likely supporting the tradition that it’s best to season venison before packaging it. The problem is that, if it turns warm, the meat can quickly spoil, and that would be an unpardonable sin.

White, a sociable potter/artist with unbridled energy and spirit, is a devoted hunter who raises, breeds and trains German Shorthair Pointers owned and loved throughout the Pioneer Valley and beyond. I am often reminded of my friend by drinking from his signature earth-tone coffee mugs, lighting his lamps and placing drinks on the glazed, table-top coasters I’ve bought from him over the years. The last time I actually saw him to talk to was in late August when he stopped by with a gift, a game and a devilish grin. You see, he had called on the phone earlier and, knowing I collect Whately stoneware, reported digging up something of interest he wanted to share with me on his way through Greenfield. When he arrived at my home around 5 p.m., he came in and we chatted awhile before walking out to his truck to inspect his treasure: a small, handled ovoid jug covered with in a gray, pasty opaque film. He wanted me to wash it off at the nearby garden hose and see what appeared.

I must say I had immediate suspicions and, lo, the pretty little jug was no ancient artifact but a brand-new piece he had made me as a special gift, with Old Tavern Farm impressed on its shoulder under a streak of cobalt blue, the same color as the bird he had an artist friend paint on its face. I was moved by the thoughtful gesture, a personal gift from a friend and reader that I will treasure for the rest of my days; it currently standing atop a one-drawer Sheraton stand in the study between a sofa and my bookcases. It’s heartfelt offerings like that which a man like me finds most special; yes, a genuine token of friendship that will always have a story attached and a storyteller to spin it.

But enough of that, back to the man’s big buck, which, in his own words, had “just an ordinary rack” but, in my words, was no ordinary deer. No, 187-pound bucks in these parts qualify as large no matter how you frame it. Perhaps its ordinary head gear left it a step below a trophy buck, but, hey, like the fellas sitting at the Conway Taproom bar say: you can’t eat the horns. And get this. White says there’s a larger buck sporting a trophy rack that’s been showing up on his trail camera since August or early September. So now that critter is patrolling the same area minus his No. 1 competitor vying for the affection of four of five does White has seen up close and personal, not to mention on his camera.

“One time those does were right under my stand and I tried my best to put horns on them,” he laughed. “You know how that goes: low light and you start trying to grow horns on them before coming back to reality and admitting they’re baldies.”

Yeah, any deer hunter knows that creative little mind game of internal deception; and to be honest, I’d venture a guess that a game warden or two has heard excuses from violators who shoot does without a permit and try to defend themselves by saying it was an honest mistake. You know, something like, “Honestly, Officer, I thought it had horns or I wouldn’t have shot;” followed by the ruse that there must have been deceptive branches behind it, because the hunter was certain it had spikes when he squeezed the trigger; then the tear-jerker of all tear-jerkers that his eyes just ain’t what they used to be. Well, it’s doubtful such excuses get a man far with the stern, expressionless officers of the law patrolling the region nowadays, especially the new, rigid breed wearing their military high and tights, rarely fitting the profile of the kid next door’s dad that applied when I was young.

White predicts that bucks are now most vulnerable to hunters, because in the pre-rut stage they’re anxious to breed does playing hard to get. “The does aren’t in heat or receptive yet,” reported White, “but the bucks are all revved up, their hormones cooking, and they’re scraping and grunting and growing their fat rut necks.”

White grunted his handsome buck in after daybreak and says the beast came at him quickly from out of sight. He knew the deer he’d been monitoring were bedding in slash above his stand and was careful to walk in quietly to conceal his presence in a tree stand overlooking his man-made scrape doused with doe-in-heat and rutting-buck urines in a jar. As soon as he settled into his stand, he started working his grunt call softly, just in case a buck was close, then when nothing happened, started grunting louder and more aggressively while alternating between aggressive- and more subtle tending-grunt sequences.

“Finally, I heard something and saw the buck running right at me,” he said. “Like turkeys, they have an uncanny ability to pinpoint a faraway sound they’re interested in, and he came right to it, stopping right below my tree, freezing briefly and turning to walk away.”

It was during that alert departure that the deer, still looking for the rival beast making all the noise, made its fatal mistake by stopping briefly at a spot where White had a clear shot, no pesky hemlock branches obstructing his arrow’s path. He let fly from 26 yards at just before 7 a.m. and was able to follow the bright streak of his lighted-nock fly at the deer, clear through it and into the ground on the other side. The shot passed right through the animal’s vitals for what proved to be a quick, humane kill. The 3½-year-old deer never knew what hit him; he flinched, ran off some 50 yards into the hardwoods, staggered, fell and quickly expired from profuse internal bleeding.

So now White can focus on the big boy. Maybe it too will make a fatal mistake. Maybe not. White is hoping for the former.

“Yeah,” he said. “I’d be good with filling both my tags before shotgun season.”

Another Fine Covert Bites The Dust

It’s pheasant season, the ringnecks are cackling and flying and life is good; yet, sadly, some of my favorite coverts — thick, thorny, productive tangles I’ve plowed through regularly for 40 years — have become inundated with unfamiliar hunters, many from far away, a relatively new development.

It’s perfectly alright that “outsiders” find their way to the public, state-owned coverts on which all are not only welcome but directed by online maps that can be printed and stored in glove boxes or console compartments. But when new hunters and strange vehicles start spilling over into adjacent private land owned by folks who have always permitted their friends, classmates, teammates and neighbors to hunt — often stopping on fine fall days for warm conversation — well, let’s just say the owners are not always so welcoming to folks they’re meeting for the first time, strangers taking the liberties they’ve seen from afar other folks with personal connections take.

Hunters should know it’s never safe to assume that just because you see a vehicle parked out at the back of someone’s hayfield that everyone has the same privileges. Upon discovering a new place to hunt, it’s always best to find out who owns the property, seek out that owner, introduce yourself, ask permission and learn the ground rules, asking considerate questions like, “Is there anywhere you don’t want me to hunt or park?” By making bold assumptions and driving across private land like it’s yours, you can ultimately ruin it for everyone.

Truth be told, I’ve suspected for the past couple of years, judging from what I’d seen in passing, that things were about to change on a rich wetland where my roots lie deep; and I even went so far as to warn a couple people to be careful as I reduced my own presence and waited for the changes to unfold. Then, a little more than a month ago at an archaeological dig bordering ancient family acreage, a man with indisputable insight warned me it was coming.  I quickly reiterated my warning to a few friends and have intentionally stayed away this year since the season opened. Well, sure enough, Wednesday morning the inevitable phone call finally came. Yes indeed, one of the folks I had warned, a friend who had met the owners several times in my company, visited the site Tuesday afternoon, couldn’t find a parking place at the adjacent state covert, drove over the hump to the contiguous private covert and immediately noticed four trucks parked out along the brook cutting a vast hayfield in half. When he and his companion ventured out to see who was hunting and how they’d done, they found a band of unfamiliar orange-clad hunters milling about by their vehicles, stopped briefly to chat and departed for a different spot. Then, on the way out, they were flagged down by the landowner and politely asked who they were and where they were from before being informed that, unfortunately, times were going to change on the covert. In my opinion, posting was inevitable there. I sensed it coming long ago as more and more people found their way to the private side of the covert, and honestly, although I may sound provincial, I can’t say I blame them. If I owned it, I’d want to know who was hunting on my property, and if I wasn’t comfortable with the crowd, I’d put an end to it, too.

What’s interesting is that quite by accident I played a role in this sad development. Years ago, a fellow Frontier graduate was serving as Connecticut Valley Wildlife District game manager in charge of our pheasant-stocking and we were making small talk on the phone about “local” coverts we both knew well. During the friendly chat, it dawned on me to ask a question I had wanted answered for many years. That is: did they stock the place I called Balboni’s, an overgrown hayfield that had been very good to me over the years? I had hunted there for many years, primarily for woodcock and grouse, but knew pheasants always found their way to the covert as the season progressed. When he said, no, they never stocked property without the owner’s permission, I opined that the owner would have no problem with stocking it. Well, lo and behold, the man looked into the site, discovered it was for sale, tipped off the MassWildlife land-acquisition agent and the rest is history. Yes, the state promptly bought the parcel, a natural wildlife and wildflower refuge it soon “put on the map” as a Wildlife Management Area that has for 10 years or more attracted more and more hunters each year.

Talk about cycles, or maybe chickens coming home to roost. For years I’d wait a few weeks for that field to fill up with stocked pheasants from the nearby private covert, then visit it daily over the last half of the season, when I had it pretty-much to myself. Now, I suspect that just the opposite scenario will soon unfold, with the hunting pressure shifting exclusively to the public covert, which cannot hold many hunters at once, and many of the pheasants that escape them ending up over on the private posted covert t’other side, separated by a dense, wet, impenetrable alder swamp flooded by beavers. That dense wetland used to be huntable, holding many grouse and woodcock, but the vegetation is now older, taller, thicker, thornier and, even worse, much of it is underwater. But game birds can still find dry pockets of unhuntable jungle refuge full of nourishing seeds and berries.

My guess is that soon the private land will be legally posted, and thus no longer stocked but full of pheasants that will be out of play for most  hunters. In my mind, it was inevitable. I clearly saw it coming. Only a blind man could have missed it. Streams of out-of-town hunters and vehicles are seldom welcome to landowners.

And so, yes, another good covert bites the dust.

Drydock Blues

I’m starting to feel guilty. The dogs know. I can sense it, see it in their step, their demeanor. Hunting season is here. They know.

Problem is I’m getting off to a late start because I procrastinated on a few key matters down the stretch. Here’s the checklist:

1. Purchase hunting license (done);

2. Purchase hunting bibs (done at last minute, awaiting delivery, could get by with tattered pair  hanging in carriage shed);

3. Purchase waterproof boots (also ordered late, still awaiting package, no appropriate boots to carry me through before new ones arrive).

Oh well, no one to blame but myself. I shouldn’t have delayed so long before motivating, but in my own defense, I’ve been busy with other stuff, all of it interesting, dynamic too, more and more archaeological information coming at me daily; stapled documents, books and notes accumulating rapidly, piling up on my desk, a candle stand, chest of drawers, Queen Anne tea table. That plus an interesting home visit a couple of days after a lively public presentation in Deerfield. Yes, it seems it’s been one interesting conversation after another — some on the phone, others face-to-face — all part of an information-gathering process that should bear succulent fruit. It seems there’s always some new angle or accusation to ponder, the loose ends dangling here and there, willy-nilly in opposite directions like roots on an uprooted tree.

But, hey, that stuff’s gotta wait. It’s hunting season, I own two good bird dogs born to burst through muddy, thorny tangles, and we only get six short weeks to pound the swamps together in search of stocked pheasants, migratory woodcock and diminishing partridge. I remember daily youthful frolics when partridge seemed to startle us around every corner in my travels out and about looking for and often finding mischief. Not anymore. No sir. With our forests older and taller, partridge are scarcer, which isn’t to suggest I’m a proponent of bloody biomass rape to solve the problem by irresponsible clear-cutting that would indeed stimulate fresh new growth and a partridge comeback, not to mention dirty, smoky air. Wouldn’t that be selfish of me? I think so. Besides, I like forests with majestic hardwoods, cool upland ridges and hard protruding ledge.

Actually, above all it’s the boots that have me drydocked. I was trying to make a decision on a new style, hesitated and lost. Quite by coincidence and necessity a few years back, I threw on my Cabela’s insulated leather and Gore-Tex 12-inch “Outfitter Boots” purchased for deer hunting and, although hot, was pleased with the comfort and ankle-support. So, with those stiff, rugged, upland boots destroyed after a few years, I figured I’d look for something similar this time around, minus the insulation. When I emailed a Cabela’s contact person listed in my outdoor-writers’ directory for advice and didn’t receive an immediate response, I didn’t want to be pushy and waited patiently. But the fact is that I waited too long and am now paying the price, twiddling my thumbs and waiting for that familiar UPS truck’s roar approaching my yard. I went with the 16-inch waterproof Boa Snake Boots, although a little worried that they may not hold up to the punishment they’ll endure. We’ll see. What the heck? If I get three years out of them, I’ll be happy. If not, I’ll try something else next time.

I need a boot that will stand up to thorns, vines and hidden, rusty barbed-wire fences hugging the ground as I plow through black cattail mud and puddled depressions holding extended ankle-deep water from rains and overnight beaver dams. If these new boots don’t hold up, I could always go back to my old standby 16-inch L.L. Bean Hunting Shoes to which I was loyal for more than 30 years. The problem with them was that after a year or two (which adds up to 12 weeks of aggressive bird hunting), the stitches attaching the leather uppers to the rubber bottoms above the heel would break and leak. The new snake boots I selected are just as high as the Bean boots but lined with waterproof Gore-Tex top to bottom, no stitched seams to leak above the heel. We’ll see what transpires. I’m confident they’ll be fine, my feet warm, dry and comfy.

Something else that my friends wear and I’ve many times considered are those pricey high rubber boots you see English gentlemen hunters wearing in the field. Though knee-high and supposedly made of tough, space-age rubber, I have two serious reservations concerning durability: 1. they’ll tear in the thorny cover I frequently hunt and, more importantly, 2. they won’t provide the needed support for my loose right ankle the fellas shot up with Novocain at halftime of a high school football game against Mahar my senior year. It’s true, but no names. What were they thinking? Playing for a terrible team that won one freakin’ game in two years, you have to wonder whether it was really worth it? Looking back, I’d  say no.

Oh, how clearly I recall that doctor at my first UMass baseball physical examining the floppy ankle, holding it between his hands on opposite sides of my heel and wiggling it to check stability. Concerned by the range of motion, he suggested surgery that would require drilling a hole through my leg bone, pulling the loose tendons through it and fastening them to the other side for tightness. I wasn’t interested, assuring the man I could live with tape. So here I sit nearly 45 years later, still going strong on that balky right ankle which got me through the second half of that 1970 football game in South Deerfield, the painless throbbing eventually turning into sharp stabbing pain by late in the fourth quarter — all for the sake of athletic glory. Am I missing something, or is it ridiculous?

Anyway, back to my current predicament while awaiting hunting boots, I did make use of the idle time for backyard leave removal, then picked away at my side-by-side shotgun with paste wax that has it shining like a newborn’s behind. Problem is that the anxiety-soothing polishing activity uncovered yet another unexpected issue I am still at this point trying to resolve. You see, my European walnut stock feels a little loose and, with time on my hands, I sure would like to snug it up before it gets worse. Unfortunately, I don’t know where the screw to tighten it is and am unable to disassemble the shotgun’s receiver from its stock, if you can imagine that with a sweet little double-barrel I have owned for at least 25 years. On American shotguns and rifles I’ve owned, the stocks are typically attached to the receiver by a single screw that’s tightened with a long screwdriver through a hole in the base of the stock. Not so with this French double, and where does a man find a gunsmith these days? Trust me, I’ll find someone who can help but it won’t be as easy as hopping in the car and driving downtown. Not in today’s world, especially in a state unfriendly to gun owners. Maybe I can find some sort of instruction or a diagram online. If not, I can always drag out my 12-gauge Citori, which I haven’t used in ages. The issue is that to my knowledge I have no 12-gauge shells.

Oh my! Can it get any worse? Maybe I won’t get out at all this week. If so, I’ll feel bad for the dogs. They so love to hunt, and so do I. And hunt we will, promise, as soon as I get everything sorted out, which should have been last week but may not be till next week, eight days late, by then likely chasing stragglers that escaped the first furious push I unintentionally avoided and perhaps didn’t miss.

In the meantime, maybe I’ll kill time reading that Daedalus Online bargain-bin book I bought by Good Father Daniel Berrigan, one Catholic priest I can agree with on some matters. Better still, maybe I’ll hear that UPS truck pull into my driveway today, in the nick of time.

Old Jean Breuil wants to bark with both barrels, and the dogs are eager to “Fetch it up,” both sounds music to their ears.

New Sheriff In Town?

More than half my cordwood’s in the shed, the Full Hunters Moon is building to a brilliant climax and green stocking trucks are rolling for Saturday’s opening day of pheasant season.

Yes, the bird-hunting season is upon us and here I sit in a familiar seat, still procrastinating about purchasing my hunting license online. Imagine that! I guess times change as we age. But trust me, I will soon embark on my normal busy fall pheasant-hunting routine, starting next week and ultimately dovetailing snugly into my customary December vacation. So, first the license — just a hunting license, not sporting, for the first time in memory — then a new pair of sturdy waterproof boots, and maybe, just maybe, even new Filson bibs; you know, the kind made of the Seattle, Wash., company’s patented Double-Tin Cloth, an oil-cloth material marketed as durable enough to provide a lifetime of wear. Well, maybe for some, but not me. After three seasons, my bibs are always tattered and torn, in fact shredded and ready to be cut into patches before trashing them. That adds up to 18 short weeks of brush-busting behind my energetic Springer Spaniels, sliding through and bounding over dense thorny cover. No, I’m not complaining. To me, Filson bibs are the best money can buy. But, still, they only last me, likely at the high end of aggressive field-testers, three measly hunting seasons. It’s a time-tested reality proven many times over, hopefully many more if my chronic arthritic left knee continues to cooperate.

But I’ll have more than enough time to write about pheasants, marshes, gun dogs and wing shots as the season progresses. In fact, I’m anxious to watch Chubby come into his own, now 2 and entering his third season at full speed and agility. I know it’s coming. He’ll blow past his 9-year-old mother this year. Which is not to suggest Lily’s any slouch. No, no, no. To the contrary, the old gal can still hold her own, thank you. But Chubby’s just bigger, stronger and much younger, not to mention an absolute unharnessed bundle of energy, all nose and tail, naturally biddable and entering his prime. He’ll be fun to watch.

Till then, though, I’m still fascinated by and immersed in that Paleoindian archaeological excavation I observed back in September on a sandy southern Mt. Sugarloaf skirt. There, at a place where many years ago I picked tobacco and I shot pheasants over black Lab Sara, Paleoindians camped seasonally to capitalize on favorable topography for caribou hunting and whatever else they may have hunted and gathered there. Having watched Dr. Richard Michael Gramly and crew trowel through layer upon layer of dirt to collect 12,000-year-old, prehistoric treasure below the chocolate-colored plowzone, and having had the opportunity to talk at length to him and many of his loyal, experienced crew members, all donating their time from different parts of America and walks of life, I just can’t seem to shake the subject of Paleoindians and their Pioneer Valley travels focused around hunting for survival and clothing.

And now, could it be a coincidence that out of the clear blue sky, quite by accident, someone has stumbled upon and told me about a new development that suggests perhaps it was a good thing I watched that dig and asked those questions when I did, because such opportunities may soon be impossible if Massachusetts House Bill No. 744 is passed in the dark of night before anyone in the Connecticut River Valley knows what hit them. Presented on Jan. 17 by Peter V. Kocot, D-Northampton, and co-signed by Hampshire County sister Ellen Story, D-Amherst, the proposed bill — the genesis of which I’m still not certain of but have suspicions — is currently working its way toward enactment. If approved as expected, a Connecticut Valley oversight committee headquartered at UMass will be appointed “to preserve and protect the archaeological and fossil resources of the Commonwealth.” I don’t know what will change with a new Pioneer Valley archaeological watchdog on patrol, but suspect it will impact future exploration here. Stay tuned. I must explore this bill and its aims before commenting further. But I must admit that at first whiff the smell is unpleasant. I know who likely pushed the measure behind the scenes and why, while I also have spoken to many experts in the field who have reservations about these folks’ objectives, tactics and unaccountability, if not integrity.

In the meantime, you may want to attend a 2 p.m. program Sunday at the Hall Tavern in Old Deerfield. There, UMass anthropologist Elizabeth Chilton and former student Siobhan Hart will speak and answer questions about the Pocumtuck Fort site they have been quietly exploring on a ridge just east of Deerfield Village for 10 or more years. News of this presentation was not publicized in bold print on the Historic Deerfield website but was promoted on a brochure mailed periodically to Friends of Historic Deerfield supporters.

The long-lost, mysterious Pocumtuck Fort site, said to have been attacked by the Mohawks prior to 1670, has for almost two centuries piqued the interest of scholars and local historians alike. But in the big picture, it’s a Contact Period site that’s small potatoes compared to the nearby Sugarloaf Paleo Site, which is more than 10,000 years older. Most enticing about Paleo exploration is how little is known about these primitive human beings, with new discoveries and interpretation being made weekly. It is difficult to decipher precisely who these people were because time has erased their DNA, leaving behind only stone tools and implements and, if lucky, maybe some calcine (roasted) bone fragments and charcoal bits for carbon-dating. Having queried a broad sampling of the experts passing through the recent Sugarloaf Site dig, and read volumes on the subject, it’s clear to me that there is great disagreement relative to who these Paleoindians were and whether they were the ancient ancestors of the Indian tribes found living here at the time of the Pocumtuck Fort.

Some experts believe the River Tribes of our valley carried the genes of the Paleo people Gramly was exploring; others speculate that those genes vanished from our valley in northern pursuit of the caribou herds, which, myself, I find preposterous. So count me among the folks who believe that all the tribes who met European explorers disembarking ships along our eastern shores from the days of Viking Leif Erikson forward encountered Indians who had evolved from the nomadic, post-Ice Age Paleoindian hunting bands. Yes, there are those who will respond to that opinion by claiming I’m “uninformed.” But the fact is that neither my hypothesis nor theirs — that the River Indian tribesmen of 1630 carried no genetic markers of the Paleo people camping at the Sugarloaf Site — can be proven at the present time. So put that in your pipe and smoke it, and while you’re at it, pack it with a little of old friend Jimmy Pasiecnik’s medical marijuana if you will. Or, if that Whately entrepreneur can’t talk sense into the rigid town officials he’s dealing with, maybe Mike Ruggeri will soon be able to supply some primo green-bone filler. Will government pot-Nazis ever give up? Hasn’t this gone on long enough? Isn’t it inevitable that pot will someday be legal, no matter how loud Nervous Nellies from the Ecumenical Council wail? All this bluster is ridiculous, not to mention a colossal waste of time and money. It must have been nice back in the Paleo era when people were governed by the forces of nature, not uniformed officers enforcing laws enacted to preserve and protect the status quo, be it compassionate or corrupt, more likely the latter. But why digress … back to the Paleoindians, who slaughtered caribou with spears right where I dropped many a cackling ringneck rooster fleeing for cover deep into the foreboding Hopewell Swamp, still rich in virtually everything a man needs to survive.

Those who believe Paleo people disappeared from our region say they did so in pursuit of the caribou herds, which they followed north to cooler climates. There’s no reason to doubt that Paleo hunters initially moved north with the shifting caribou range because, like all human beings, they were creatures of habit locked into a lifestyle. But don’t people and animals evolve? Did deer, bears and squirrels leave our landscape when American chestnuts died of blight, or did they adapt and learn to survive on other available hard-mast crops? Does anyone truly believe that Paleoindians, who savored caribou meat above all else and chased the herds as a way of life, didn’t know there were also fish and fowl to eat within the same habitats? Weren’t they aware of other sources of red meat as well? If caribou moved to colder regions as New England warmed, wouldn’t the people who followed ultimately return to their old haunts, find that life was easier and adjust their diet? I can’t imagine any other scenario. Do you really need a doctorate to figure out such basic, primal questions of simple human survival? Not in a world of common sense and intellectual instinct.

All I can say is that I want to know more about questions like these. I’d like to connect the Sugarloaf Site to Peskeomskut and South Hadley Falls and the Hamp Meadows and a certain balanced rock and prayer seat I know of, buried deep in a place known to some as The Four Corners. But I get the feeling that if this House Bill No. 744 goes through in the dark of night without public awareness and scrutiny that future Paleo archaeology will be off limits except to selected pals in agreement with a small cabal of secretive stewards serving their own needs and padding their resumes.

I guess the least I can do at this late point is shed a dull ray of light into the shadow obscuring the bill; that and hope I won’t soon after its imminent approval be proclaiming right here in this space that I told you so.

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