Skirting Issues

Another week, new impetus, birds still at the fore. That time of year, I guess: nesting season.

What crossed my daily path this time, on a bright, sunny, Wednesday morning, a cool, gentle, westerly breeze keeping my brow dry, was a pair of Canada geese and eight or 10 tiny, day-or-two-old, golden fuzzy goslings paddling up the Green River, the little ones — which I didn’t bother to count — vulnerable indeed. For all I know, they could have been eggs earlier that morning. That small.

I was first alerted to their presence from afar by distinctive, intermittent adult goose honks that to me suggested distress or warning as Chubby stood statuesque, straight and rigid, ears perked, head and nose high and alert. He barked. Not crazy, threatening barking. More like, “I see you over there t’other side the river, and if you don’t quit teasing me by honking and nervously swimming away, then I may just take chase.”

I was perhaps 80 yards away, just passing the beaver dam along the southern perimeter of the field, heading for the tall riverside apple tree in blossom that may someday slide into the river along with the escarpment lip on which it stands. That undercut bank where trout are known to lurk is slowly eroding during annual violent high-water acts and will in my lifetime likely topple into a raging river.

When Chubby’s barking began, I picked up the pace as Lily trotted out of the swamp below the beaver dam to join me. She stood momentarily in the lane along the woods and trotted enthusiastically toward her unruly son, joining him under the apple tree before circling left and threatening to drop down over the bank to further investigate the mouthy geese, still honking to keep the little ones on high alert and ready to kick it into high gear. On the scene looking down at the situation, I figured that the little ones weren’t yet nimble enough to escape, and I didn’t want to test my theory.

It’s during precarious situations precisely like that, when things can happen fast, that my Tri-Tronics collars are most useful. When I can see the dogs are ready to make a move I’m not comfortable with, I give them a soft, friendly, vocal “No,” then an audible buzz on their collars. That sound is a warning that can, when necessary, be backed up by a mild electric tickle, the strength of which is controlled by the remote dangling from a lanyard around my neck. The remote-control collars are invisible half-mile leashes, for my money, much better than any leash on the market, including those popular extendable/retractable contraptions with the sporty handles. My collars give the dogs far more freedom to roam, promoting free-wheeling exercise minus emergency trips to the vet for traumas of the road, porcupine dens or other misfortunes capable of striking suddenly and costing dearly during active daily rambles off the beaten path.

Anyway, we got through the situation without a glitch, I’ve described it the best I can and now, here I sit, pondering where to go next. Better still, where do I dare go because, regarding a familiar old subject that drew more response from an interested readership than any subject I have ever tackled over parts of four decades of filling this space, the damning evidence just keeps coming at me like the dam-break that unleashed Lake Hitchcock some 14,000 years ago. It’s incredible. No wonder there are those out there who want to silence me.

All I can say is that that kind of control usually only works temporarily. I’ll find a way to get the news out. So, to those of you out there supplying info, inquiring how things are going or where I’m headed next, I ask you to please be patient. I’m searching for a weakness in the paddock fence and am confident I’ll soon again be liberated to run unrestrained and uninhibited as we all should be allowed to ramble.

 Fish finder: On that same morning walk with the dogs that spawned my above segue about geese and beyond and now brings us to tired old nuts-and-bolt outdoor-column fodder, a river image leading down into Sunken Meadow sent my imagination awhirl with thoughts of years passed. Yes, it harkened back to the days of early awakenings, double-hauls and roll-casts, tight loops into difficult crosswinds and mending line on the water to create a proper dead-drift capable of attracting large, wary Deerfield River browns feeding in riffles before the birds sang.

The Green River was running freely but had receded some and cleared, a lot like my backyard brook that feeds it, and I must say it looked ripe for fishing where a long section of flat water dropped into a riffle and swung around a gentle bend to a deeper run where I knew trout were lurking. I can’t say it was impetus for going home, digging out one of my bamboo fly rods and catching a few sky pilots, just that when I look at a river this time of the year, or anytime for that matter, I still think like an angler, reading water and understanding how to catch fish that are surely there after several Valley District stockings that’ll end this week.

Anyway, no matter where you go, you’re going to find trout from the local hatcheries. So, if that’s what turns you on and proves your manhood, get out there and have a ball. The trucks are making their final “official” spring runs this week.

Meanwhile, the shad are running strong with Connecticut River temperatures at 60 degrees and climbing. By Wednesday morning, 161,000 shad had passed Holyoke and are now swimming somewhere between here and there. Those, too, I understand how to catch on fly tackle, and I even know how to make the willow-leaf lures that’ll out-produce any shad dart money can buy. Not only that, but I have hundreds of them piled on shelves in a big old Plano tackle box in the attic. The attraction is for me dull at this time in my life. Been there, done that. More pressing are two books that arrived in the same load of mail this morning — one a scholarly report on the Nipmuck Indians that was costly, the other a biography of French novelist Jean Giono, an artist first published in this country by the late, irascible Jimmy Cooney of Poplar Hill.

Lastly, three lonely Atlantic salmon have thus far been counted in the Connecticut River system. State and federal authorities warn that these fish are being tagged and monitored, and demand that any shad anglers who by accident catch them must promptly release them. So, even though salmon-restoration is over, salmon protection is not. Don’t worry fellas, it won’t be long before all salmon temptations in our rivers are gone forever.

Off I go … undaunted, still reading and hiking and talking and meeting new people, not hesitant to poke my nose into topics some officials think strongly should be hidden from public attention. Forget it, fellas. You’re barking up the wrong tree. In my soul, I’m still the same incorrigible teen that many remember from decades back. Yes, in fact I’m just warming up, and ain’t going away anytime soon; just observing, listening, learning and storing up mountains of material for a fair and furious crescendo that will spare no one.

That, friends, is a promise.

Birdie Babel

Birds are in my brain today as I sit down to hammer out this weekly chore. So, yes, it’s birds I plan to discuss while, of course, fighting off Satanic urges to meander off into the perilous terrain of sensitive topics, which it seems to me readers prefer.

As for birds, well, no, I honestly can’t blame this thought train on the mated pair of mallards Chubby flushed out of a cold, slim channel slithering between tall, verdant cattails painting the beaver-bog edge this morning. No, that fleeting, flying, whistling encounter, which happens often, was just a brief reminder of the many bird tales that have for some reason crossed my path this week, starting with a wood duck hen and her brood of perhaps 10 tiny ducklings I stopped to literally let cross the road in front of my truck on the way to work Monday evening. I was surprised to witness such a sight, thinking it a bit early for hatchlings during this cold, late spring as I watched their nervous, disoriented waddle across the road’s center stripes, over the gravel shoulder and into an old, overgrown Christmas Tree farm planted t’other side of the guardrails by a radiologist who some years ago split Down East.

Then, in rapid fashion came a phone call from an old hunting buddy curious about a turkey vanishing act that had endured for more than a week, and, from the same source, especially his surreal tale of a peculiar partridge that befriended and frankly bemused him during a mid-morning turkey hunt behind his friend’s barnyard on the way to Leyden. Accustomed to being startled by flushing partridge fleeing for cover in a burst of energy from the forest floor as he’s tiptoed through his haunts for better than 60 years, this bird, to his utter disbelief, walked right up to him as he sat concealed in a turkey stand. Then it lingered like a pet and proceeded to follow him around like a dunghill hen, flying across brooks to join him t’other side. When he finally decided to call it a day and backtrack to his truck, the bird followed him all the way back to within sight of the barnyard before spotting a fat barn feline in the double-rutted road and flying off with that familiar whooshing flash.

“I never thought I’d live to see the day that a partridge would follow me around in the woods like a pet,” my friend marveled. “I really believe I could have reached out and picked it up a few times when it got real close.”

Suspecting the bird had been raised, fed and tamed by his farmer friend or a neighbor, my friend asked his old National Guard pal if he was familiar with the partridge. He received a wry grin and quick response. Yes, he knew the bird well, said it had been around for some time and was remarkably tame, but no one to his knowledge had raised it. No, he figured it was just a freak of nature — one of those things that happens from time to time. And when I think of it, hasn’t Thoreau or Muir or some naturalist of that ilk written about unusual relationships with odd wild creatures? It seems to me I’ve read such accounts, though please don’t ask me to cite verse and line.

Regarding my buddy’s turkey dilemma, well, not being out there as an observer, it’s difficult to ascertain the reason for this reported disappearing act, though I can say from experience that there’s always a stage of the spring mating season when the action slows noticeably for hunters. My buddy’s initial question to me was, “Hey, when’s the last time you saw turkeys out in the fields you monitor?” And he was indeed onto something because, although I hadn’t really given it much thought, I realized that, yes, I had not seen in a week or more the turkeys I had been watching all spring. Such a phenomenon usually occurs when toms are content with the harems they’ve assembled while their loyal mates are busy tending and building nests full of eggs.

My buddy claims to have spoken to many experienced hunters and farmers, all of whom concur that they’re not seeing turkeys, either, and that they were seeing them regularly not long ago. So it appears that we’re experiencing that familiar part of the season when things slow down, which doesn’t mean no one is scoring. Trust me, there are random daily successes here and there in the Hampshire/Franklin hills, where hunters situated in the right place at the right time are bagging trophy longbeards that charge in with a vociferous fatal passion.

Then again, this time of year one must always beware of silent approaches by wise, wary gobblers that creep within range without a peep.

Fish finder: MassWildlife crews are working toward their Memorial Day trout-stocking crescendo, after which will likely come one surplus June stocking followed by a fall stocking that’ll signal the end. By now, there are trout everywhere they’re typically found, so don’t hesitate to dig that old rod out of the shed. … Meanwhile, things are picking up on the Connecticut River anadromous-fish-migration scene, with 51,634 American shad having been counted in the river system through Tuesday. With the river temperature in Holyoke at 55.4 degrees Fahrenheit Tuesday, more than 36,000 shad were lifted at Holyoke, representing the best day so far, and it should only get better as the river temps rise to 60. … No Atlantic salmon to report yet. Who knows? We may get a few stragglers. Maybe not. Only time will tell. By now, with the once-aggressive restoration project defunct, does it really matter? The time was not and is not right for salmon restoration on New England’s largest river. Sad but true. Had the authorities done their homework or listened to the doctoral-level naysayers who warned them from the start that the project was not viable, they could have saved taxpayers tens, if not hundreds of millions. Too late now. Chalk it up as water over the dam.

Outgoing: Affable Elna Castonguay — a cheerful, humble, friendly, committed and loyal public servant with whom I’ve dealt for many years in her post as MassWildlife’s Western District administrative assistant — retires today, the lucky dog. With an old-fashioned enthusiasm for her job, Elna is a dying breed, the likes of whom are most often replaced by those who think they’re overqualified or just plain “too good” for their job, making life difficult for people like me seeking information in a timely fashion. All I can say is that in more than 35 years covering this beat, there were none better than Elna, thus the praise. Elna will be missed. Trust me.

Living Proof

Observations. They jolt me, jostle me, spin my wheels awhirl, often propelling me off to the most unusual and unlikely places, real and imagined.

With devilish spring air tickling my lungs, there has been much visual impetus this past week as the sympathy cards, emails and phone calls keep pouring in after the tragic passing of son Ryan, 28, too young to die. I’m in touch with the boy daily — be it applying the Old Spice deodorant stick he scoffed from me weeks back but now is back on the bathroom shelf from which he lifted it; storing away his music and movie collections; or finding a place for a random pole lamp or bedside night stand we found for his apartment along the way. Yes, now Rynie has been sadly relegated to the status of fifth-great-grandfather Deacon Thomas Sanderson of Whately, an 18th and 19th century tanner/cordwainer whose ghostly pine, six-drawer cobbler’s chestful of handmade tools graces the west wall of my kitchen, often stirring thoughts of who the man was and what he stood for while carving out a rich Pioneer Valley legacy.

But, returning to observations, let me begin with one that maybe I should ignore out of fear that some state wildlife Ph.D will take exception and threaten me for leaving the reservation and reporting something he or she would rather keep the lid on. Because, you see, what I saw noontime Friday with my own eyes during a sunny Connecticut River-side ride with a friend and neighbor was something you’re not supposed to see anymore. What we saw that day in a verdant, shin-high rye field fronting a field overtaken by wild roses were two adult pheasants, cock and hen, out for a midday courtship stroll through the bottomland meadow. By now the hen has likely built or is putting the finishing touches on her nest, which will soon be full of eggs that’ll hopefully escape nighttime thieves and hatch a brood of five or eight or maybe even a dozen chicks that neighbors will be pleased to monitor in their travels.

Imagine that! Just like the old days when, as a boy growing up in South Deerfield, two or three hens and their chicks would pass through our yard daily in June, picking at bugs and fresh clover near the peony beds and under the scabby cherry fruit tree that ultimately succumbed to those ugly, black, bulbous scabs. Those were the days when the state owned and operated pheasant farms in Wilbraham, Ayer, Sandwich and perhaps another location I don’t recall, raising the birds it stocked for an annual fall cocks-only hunting season that lasted into the early 1980s, at which time the powers that be decided it would be cheaper to close the farms, lift the ban on shooting hens and buy its birds outright from private vendors. They said the new system was incorporated because, due to development, the habitat could no longer support self-sustaining pockets of native-pheasant covert, which I doubted then and still doubt, though I must admit those two pheasants I saw Friday were a rare sight indeed. I do not recall the last time I saw a mated pair of spring pheasants. But that’s not because there isn’t enough Connecticut Valley habitat to support scattered wild reproduction. It’s because few today survive the put-and-take season, plus, with trapping outlawed and birds of prey protected, pheasants have more predators to deal with than they did when I was a boy.

When state-owned game farms raised their own birds for stocking, they would release surplus brood-stock hens in the summer and fall, and it didn’t take many survivors from the cocks-only fall season to find springtime mates and produce a significant population of supplemental “wild” birds contributing to the overall numbers available for hunting season. You can’t convince me that this is not still possible today in deep, dense coverts like Fuller’s Swamp or Hopewell Swamp or the old Hatfield Oxbow. But I won’t belabor the idea because it ain’t happening. The old days of hunting random, wild trophy birds with stunning adult plumage and long tail feathers has sadly become a put-and-take hunt of young birds that seldom last long when pitted against expert gun dogs and wing-shooters.

Enough of that. It’s a dead issue. But how about fiddleheads, which, distracted by the death of Rynie, I just couldn’t motivate myself to pick last week. Not that it’s news to devoted harvesters of the tender seasonal morsels, but my oh my how those ostrich ferns shoot up once the warm weather and rains arrive. A couple of weeks ago I checked a couple of patches I pass daily and they were still clinging tight to the ground and invisible from afar. Last week I knew they were ready, and now those same tight little clumps you look for are light-green, shin-high ferns sticking out like monuments among random fresh growth coloring the marshy floor. Oh well, I have savored fresh local asparagus and will soon be cutting my rhubarb, so not all’s lost.

Other than that, not much happening worth mentioning, other than spring turkey season, trout stocking and anadromous fish migrating slowly up a cold, turbulent Connecticut River. If you haven’t bagged your spring gobbler yet, don’t fret, there’s still plenty of time. As for shad, well, yes, they’re trickling through Holyoke now, but the run should start accelerating with warm days and night predicted. Most of all, what is needed is bright, sunny days and warm nights. That’ll raise river temps into the 60s in no time and ignite a shad surge. Finally, regarding annual spring trout-stocking, there is nowhere that’s traditionally stocked that hasn’t by now received more than one stocking from Valley or Western District crews. So get out there if that’s what plugs you in.

As for me, well, fishing doesn’t cut it anymore. Been there, done that. So it’s back to hunting — not for turkeys, no, but rather rock shelters, ancient ceremonial waterfalls, Indian villages, indigenous paths; that and new “revisionist” twists published to wipe away tired old misconceptions forcefully perpetrated and protected by a legion of lame “historians” fueled by patriotism, racism and biased closed-mindedness, not fact and open, honest scholarship.

Enough said.

Off I go.

Rynie’s Song

Small table-top urns, two of them, showed up recently on my cluttered library’s desk — one blue, the other gold, matching my late sons’ eyes.

My wife placed the decorative little canisters there, probably as a shrine. I don’t know, haven’t asked and won’t. In fact, I never even mentioned the eye-color coordination. A coincidence? Maybe. But I doubt it.

Who knows? Maybe someday my ashes will wind up in a similar setting. Though I can’t say it matters much to me. I live for the present, which in my world ends with death. When it comes, they can do with my ashes as they wish. Throw them to the wind, if they will, snort them through a silver straw or stir them into a cup of coffee or tuna casserole. Their choice, totally irrelevant to me.

I do feel compelled to express how deeply I’ve been touched by the outpouring of support following the recent death of Ryan, the son who died a day short of his 29th birthday, three-plus years after his older brother. Frankly, the community response has been stunning, exceeding anything I could have imagined, with literally hundreds of cards, emails, phone calls and impromptu conversations in the public square, all of it heartfelt and genuine.

Never comfortable as an object of sympathy, I’ve graciously accepted it from friends and family, old teammates and sporting pals, and those I’ve met in my 35-year travels compiling information for this space. Also chiming in were those who’ve ridden the roads and walked by my side along wooded trails far off the beaten path, old lovers and classmates, even a man who once popped up from behind my parked car on the street late at night outside a seedy bar and knocked me cold with one well-placed shot in the dark to my left cheek. We got over it, became friends, a dimple’s still there as a reminder, and here I sit, still going strong, building strength for my final flurry.

Although all the sympathetic support is appreciated, I must admit that what’s touched me deepest is the response from many people I’ve never met and probably never will — all of them readers. These folks have read me for four decades, watched me grow, and feel like friends. Nothing could be more rewarding for a man in my line of work, taught long ago by a late journalistic visionary that: “If all you make in this business is friends, you’re not doing your job!” That and, “If you write it well, even people who strongly disagree will read you.” Well, I have not made only friends, but believe I’ve made more of them than enemies, for which I am grateful.

As for departed son Rynie, well, what can I say? When his aorta split in September and he heard terrifying late-night gurgling deep in his chest, he finally gave in and called the ambulance that lugged him to Franklin Medical Center. There, after his grave condition was diagnosed, doctors gave him a slim chance of surviving the trip to Baystate/Springfield for emergency open-heart surgery. As they wheeled him out of the emergency room off Sanderson Street, he issued only one request. It was, “Please don’t call my parents.” I guess he wanted to spare us the pain after witnessing with us his dear brother’s final breath in a Burlington, Vt., hospital, following 76 horrid days in ICU, the result of errors and complications from the same surgery he himself was facing.

Rynie was strong enough to survive the long, delicate wee-hour surgery and, remarkably, returned home in less than two weeks. Then he appeared headed back to his previous existence before it all came unraveled. Though privately tormented by looming mortality he could never ignore, he didn’t talk much about it. But when I left an opening during intimate private conversation, he did reiterate many times that he didn’t want to die in a hospital like Gary. Then, with the end near, he almost pulled it off by passing to another place seated in his favorite green La-Z-Boy recliner. He knew he was sick and in rapid decline but told nary a soul.

Not even the visiting nurse detected anything during her final visit, likely less than 24 hours before Rynie slipped into the unresponsive state my wife found him in on the morning of April 6. Nine days later, after briefly rebounding with the help of powerhouse medicine I think he should have been spared, Rynie expired from an insidious, systemic staph infection that had fouled his prosthetic valve and heart, rendering him “terminal.” He seemed to be recovering, but we were told that neither surgery nor antibiotics could cure him.

Reviewing his Facebook site last week, I stumbled upon a short, profound muse he posted on March 15, a month to the day before his death. He must have sensed something running amuck internally and during a quiet, pensive moment wrote: “Everybody dies, but not everybody lives!!!”

That was the Rynie I knew and loved — a brave, defiant and sensitive young man his harshest critics never knew because he refused to let them in. Most of those folks will probably never understand what he meant by that philosophical Facebook muse or, for that matter, ascend to within a faint whiff of the wildflowers in bloom along the lip of the lofty spiritual plane from which he pulled it.

Take it from his dad: There was much more than met the eye with Rynie. That’s why, as parents, we supported him through good times and bad. Life wasn’t fair to my tall, handsome, hazel-eyed boy, who lived and died with a tender heart and the unbridled spirit of a wild stallion.

He did it his way, and in the end died with dignity where he didn’t want to be.

Death’s Door

It is with heavy heart that I sit today in this comfortable, cushioned seat, cranking out another column, a weekly chore performed for most of my waning 35-year Recorder career.

Many things, some I can’t get into but would love to, are distracting my focus, potentially threatening my health. But I’ll get through it. I’m a strong man, have been backed into many corners over the years and always come out to live another day. That won’t change. Though 60, I feel like I’m still at the top of my game; in fact, still peaking, boldly confident and bulletproof to insult, fear or intimidation. I’ll figure things out. Sometimes you must get creative, which has never been a problem for me. In fact, I’d rather be creative, regardless of frothy screams from the Penrick rabble. Who are they, anyway?

Most immobilizing to me today is son Rynie’s dire situation. Trapped at death’s door in Baystate-Springfield ICU since Sunday, he’s battling for his young life, losing to staph infection that contributed to the death of his older brother, my namesake, three years ago. Maybe he’ll survive it, probably not. Either way I must go on, continuing to place one foot in front of the other, moving forward for him and me. I am proud of the hospital bravery he’s displayed. His worst detractors couldn’t come close to matching it. After regaining his wits and finally breathing on his own Tuesday afternoon, he tearlessly informed my wife that he doesn’t expect to ever again see his apartment. I am proud of his courage in the face of death, a strain many of the so-called heroes with whom he’s tangled will call their own. No, they’re bullies, prefer to have it their way, with all factors heavily weighted in their favor.

Rynie and I have both been down this road before and would not wish it upon anyone, even those we hate and hold not a speck of respect for. Those folks are, to us, already dead, stagnant, smelly water oozing over a broken, mossy dams. I will get through this crisis, learn from it and move on, always trying to glean something new and positive from this special place I call home — where my DNA’s scattered in every crevice, reaching throughout the Connecticut Valley and its hills, into the New England coast and hinterlands, and far, far beyond.

Enough!  Gotta go.

Back to haunting private thoughts about the sad ordeal of son Rynie, my dear boy who has silently suffered for so long and will likely not see his 29th birthday next week. Mixed in, I guess, will be fleeting, fanciful ponderings about my next stop on the meandering trail: mine.

Dysfunction Junction

Yes, it was indeed April Fools Day, but no spoof. Finally, spring had sprung, and the cock cardinal sitting in the burning bush off the inset porch was announcing it to the neighborhood, his joyous morning melody brightening the clear, pleasant air before fading off into infinite clear-blue sky.

I celebrated the event by doubling my morning walk over March-brown, soggy splatter — oh, how the dogs loved it. Previously, I had already aired out the barn and house by opening doors and windows, an exhilarating, annual rite of spring, especially opening my home, which had absorbed a long, cold, confining winter that it needed to relieve itself of. The forecast called for three beautiful days. Splendid! I was more than ready for it and would venture a guess that I wasn’t alone.

And wouldn’t you know it: speaking of harbingers of spring, there in my inbox sat an email announcing the first spring-trout-stocking round by MassWildlife’s Western District office, a notice that arrived a day after an online press-release from the agency’s Westborough Field Headquarters announcing statewide stocking was underway. Which, allow me to digress for a moment, reminds me how much I now enjoy the newfound freedom to write that word, underway, as one instead of two, thanks to high-ranking Associated Press windbags who recently met at some posh hotel to arbitrarily decide it was time to change the style from under way to underway. Trust me, within 20 years it’ll go back to two words. Who knows? Maybe I won’t live to see it, but it’s coming — as soon as the insecure Lourdes of Style finally become so painfully inflated with air of self-importance that they’ll have to release the discomforting buildup with an explosive new and irrelevant style-change that stinks to the high heavens and makes absolutely no difference in the world of reading comprehension. But enough of that. No, not another millisecond of pointless and quite disrespectful digression. Onto something that matters, like, for instance, Lake Hitchcock’s ancient drainage some 14,000 or 15,000 years ago, a subject I cannot seem to shake as I travel our Pioneer Valley and analyze its bottomland contours, many of them soupy cattail marshes and alder swamps I’ve followed my flushing gun-dogs through in search of sporting game birds, maybe even waterfowl back in the days when lead-shot was still legal for both.

I must say I’m pleased how new information about an old, familiar place called home can radically change my perspective. Still mired in Pioneer Valley prehistory these days, my crosshairs are centered on the overlap Franklin-Hampshire delta between Mts. Sugarloaf and Toby on the north and Holyoke and Tom on the south. In between those ranges stands solitary Mt. Warner, named after a transplanted English family that arrived in the Connecticut Valley five centuries ago to become a thread in my genealogical quilt. Millennia before those immigrant Warners migrated upriver from Hartford to Hadley with the followers of Wethersfield’s Rev. John Russell, the distinctive peak standing across the river from The Bashin and the old Hatfield Oxbow stood as a small pointed island protruding between the aforementioned neighboring ranges, which were also islands surrounded by the vast, 200-mile-long pro-glacial Lake Hitchcock, which extended roughly from St. Johnsbury, Vt., to Middletown, Conn. It was there, at a place now known as Rocky Hill, where a natural dam finally burst deep in our history, opening a fertile valley to human habitation. At least, that’s the conventional wisdom. Others believe a sparse population of pre-Clovis migrants may have found their way here from warmer southern climates, arriving in the Northeast 1,000 years before Lake Hitchcock drained.

Evidence of pre-Paleo occupation has been found in the lower Hudson Valley at the Dutchess Quarry Caves (DQC) near Middletown, N.Y. Those caves would have overlooked pro-glacial Lake Albany, which was contemporaneous to and about 100 miles west of Lake Hitchcock in these parts. Archaeological research conducted there in the Sixties and Seventies by R.E. Funk, D.W. Steadman and others unearthed Cumberland points, Indian artifacts associated with the Southeast and never before or since found in the Northeast. For that matter, to this day not a single artifact of this style has ever been recovered from the Albany Lake bed. All of them came from the highlands looking down on the old lake.

Veteran Paleo researcher Dr. Richard M. Gramly, who goes by Mike, was a DQC participant and led a recent Connecticut Valley Paleo excavation on the southern skirt of Mt. Sugarloaf. There, calcine bone fragments dug from the sandy soil were carbon dated as 12,350 years old. Gramly says there’s no reason to doubt that bands of the same pre-Clovis people who left hints of their presence in southeastern New York were here in the Connecticut Valley, too, in limited numbers. Such a claim is difficult to float in this academically rich valley, though, due primarily of two formidable obstacles standing in the way of unraveling the mystery: 1.) pre-eminent retired UMass anthropologist/archaeologist Dr. Dena F. Dincauze and her minions championed the Clovis-first North American human-settlement theory and have not been open to alternative hypotheses, and 2.) the Pioneer Valley mountains and their hidden rock shelters, which may well hold pre-Clovis evidence, have been largely ignored by archaeologists because of strenuous labor associated with upland digs.

Gramly, a bundle of energy, intellectual curiosity and self-confidence, is not hesitant to speak frankly about what is wrong with archaeology and his pet peeve, cultural-resource management. In personal communication, Gramly wrote: “It is only via physically challenging efforts that pre-Clovis human presence in and around pro-glacial Lake Hitchcock will ever be laid bare. Academics working from the comforts of cushy armchairs will not produce the data you seek. One must sweat and risk pinched toes and fingers, or worse. The labors at the DQC are in the best tradition of scientific archaeology and were carried out by real researchers who understand that ‘pure imagining’ or ‘hollow hypothesizing’ are inadequate. Musings must be followed by fieldwork.”

Not only that, but after fieldwork is completed, the findings should be published in a timely fashion to accelerate discovery through interactive research that brings many voices and opinions to the table. From what I’ve observed during what is approaching two year’s worth of aggressive information-gathering, cooperation among rival researchers is rare indeed. In fact, I would go so far as to suggest that researchers with similar aims intentionally conceal important information from each other in the race to ultimately “own” ground-breaking discovery.

A case in point focuses on the Whately Oxbow, discovered and first written about by Dr. Marjorie Holland in the 1970s as a UMass graduate student. Her subsequent Smith College doctoral dissertation on the western Massachusetts oxbows, plus related papers co-written with Smith professor/mentor Dr. John Burk and published in scholarly journals, were likely the impetus for a paper on Paleo Lakes of the Connecticut Valley co-authored by UMass archaeologists Mary Lou Curran and Dincauze. Those are only the papers I am aware of on the subject. There are undoubtedly others I have no knowledge of, even though I do thoroughly study bibliographies and footnotes.

When I asked Holland a couple of months ago why the pollen dates associated with Whately were so vague in her oxbow papers, she explained that only the Northampton Oxbow had been pollen dated, and that sampling the other two “would be a great project for someone up there.” Then, when introduced by Gramly to more recent Paleo-site pollen studies conducted by independent former Yale researcher Dr. Lucinda McWeeney, I wondered aloud why she hadn’t visited Whately and Hatfield to gather samples that could be compared to other New England sites, including one in nearby Swanzey, N.H. It made no sense to me that communication was so poor among top researchers in the field.

It gets better, and far more twisted. During the recent reading of a fresh archaeological report focused on Kellogg Hill in Hatfield, I discovered, lo and behold, that McWeeney had indeed been in the area to analyze ancient vegetation surrounding the state-permitted UMass dig of an Indian village site. Why, when here, hadn’t she taken exploratory samples at the two nearby oxbows aching for answers? I wanted to email her and alert her to Gramly’s recent Sugarloaf dig, maybe even suggest that she might want to sample the Whately Oxbow as a related project, but I was afraid of stepping on toes, too many to mention in one breath. A day or two later, an excited Gramly phoned me to say he had been in contact with McWeeney, who had taken Whately Oxbow pollen samples that revealed radiocarbon dates of 9,300 and 8,600, which translates to a ballpark figure of 11,300 and 10,600 calendar years before present. Hmmmm? Why didn’t my Smith College source know of these dates? Had they been published anywhere? And even if they were not published, you’d think someone may have hit me with an email when a few weeks back I taunted Amherst’s Five-College Consortium to get it together for further research at the site? Then, late last week I learned that at least preliminary testing had been performed there and kept quiet. Can someone please explain how that kind of secrecy is in any way beneficial to science and discovery?

If the silence was broken and the voices were united in a public forum, I think we’d all be stunned at how fast this prehistoric Pioneer Valley puzzle would come together. In the meantime, just rumors and whispers that “insiders” are surreptitiously and quite privately working the hot spots in the dark of night, and selling important artifacts to faraway collectors who pay top dollar, removing their prizes from their homes and forever clouding local history.

It seems to me that there’s a lot of blame to go around, including the officials who scream the loudest in favor of secrecy to prevent looting. What they don’t tell you is that many of the very best archaeological pilferers have come straight from their classes and field schools before venturing off on their own.

It’s a fact.

Put that in your sumac-stemmed pipe and smoke it.

Cougar Leftovers

Though cold indeed, spring’s in the air, and judging from his morning song, the scarlet cock cardinal knows it.

Perhaps he too hears the brook rattling as it snakes through dirty, dwindling streamside ice shelves. Maybe he even realizes that my once-bloated woodshed is emptying, the end near, and my taxes are e-filed. Yes, for me and the cock cardinal, life is good, notwithstanding Spring Sports Supplement week, which always unleashes a furious scramble before the first “Play ball!” echoes off North Sugarloaf’s red sandstone cliffs so familiar to me as a boy.

So here I sit atop a cushion on this worn walnut seat, still spending most of my time delving deeper in local prehistory — reading, emailing, talking on the phone and in my daily rambles — all of it an information-gathering process in anticipation of the woods opening their arms for springtime exploration. I have planned a few enticing field trips I can’t wait to embark upon but must discipline myself to be patient, never easy but usually rewarding. After focusing for months on the valley, where Paleo people were drawn to early vegetation and critters that ate it, I want to find signs of pre-Paleo habitation in the uplands, from back in the day when the ancient Sugarloaf beaver myth was born, the original storytellers of oral history looking out from high above the shores of post-glacial Lake Hitchcock. But enough of that — just a little tease about things to come, plus an unnecessary reminder of where my passions lie.

This week I’m going to take the easy way out by revisiting a tired old subject addressed last week for the first time in a while. The topic is cougars; no, not them, the four-legged variety. I guess I have little choice at this point. What’s kind of biped version is out there for a 60-year-old man? Oooops. Better be careful before I offend someone thin-skinned; no shortage of such folks in these days of stifling political correctness.

What I’d like to discuss is all the peripheral stuff I disciplined myself to avoid last week, when focused on one specific cougar caper emanating from the north suburban Boston town of Winchester a month ago. Actually, I had displayed exemplary patience on that tale, too, disciplining myself to wait for the story to develop as I suspected it would after watching the hysterical, knee-jerk reaction on the nightly news, followed by a deluge of emails that arrived in my inbox to alert me to a subject readers knew would pique my interest. As expected, when the fellas from MassWildlife finally assessed photos of tracks — go figure — they ruled the prints canine. That’s when I decided to jump in. That way, I get to poke fun at them rather than the opposite: that is, them responding with their final word on my amateurish misidentification and media irresponsibility. Contrary to the opinion of my detractors, I do learn from mistakes, though, and understand the value of analytical patience. Sometimes you must wait for the final word, the delay typically rewarded.

The fact is that, as has so often been the case when it comes to the subject of cougars with four legs and long sloping tails, the eastern Massachusetts tale was the culmination of many cougar stories that crossed my path over the winter. Even more eerie and, um, I guess predictable judging from past experience, there had been a recent run of cougar stories leading up to last week’s piece. Yes, I just keep listening, storing the data and waiting to pounce. So here I sit, crouched low on all fours, wiggling my hind quarters, ready to spring.

As I recall, it all started in January when I heard from a Northfield woman who still had a plastic bagful of scat she believed had been deposited on the wooded riverside flats near where she came face to face with a cougar fleeing a freight train in August. After this close encounter — as I recall, west of the Connecticut River and north of Bennett Meadow — she had taken it upon herself to scour swampy terrain seeking indisputable proof of the sighting and, lo, found the scat, which she collected with her hand inside the Baggie, a chore all responsible dog owners know these days. Even though a female in-law worked for MassWildlife, she was reluctant to approach her for fear of being labeled loony. Instead she asked her brother what he’d do, and he told her to contact me, that I had written extensively about sightings like hers. When we finally hooked up, I encouraged her to send the sample to her inside contact, then let me know the results. That was back in January. Not a word since. I can’t say I doubted her sighting. She didn’t sound the least bit wacky to me.

It gets better. On the Saturday morning before last week’s piece about the Winchester cougar hit the street, I had arrived at my tax accountant’s South Deerfield office an hour early and decided to run a quick errand to the town dump, where I had some documents to exchange with a friend. On the way home, still time to kill, I took a quick diversion past the home of an old childhood friend to see if I could catch him. The yard screamed that he was there and I pulled in, knocked on the door and soon there he was, same mischievous smile he’s worn since the day I met him 55 years ago. The game wardens never liked this guy much, but that didn’t bother me. I have always been entertained by him. This visit was no exception. He was a wealth of information. He went from witnessing the Hall of Fame flight of a young Vermonter fleeing State Police after scaling a high chain-link fence bordering an Interstate that’s come to be known as “Heroin Highway,” to a busy run of Craigslist Corvette sales, to, yes indeed, you guessed it: Goshen cougars — the four-legged kind that love venison chops. My buddy’s frequented that northwestern Hampshire County town of late for romance, and claims cougars are the talk of the town, that many folks have seen them, the town buzzing in the public square, yet folks are not “reporting” them, per se.

“They did a lot of logging up there and the deer are thick,” my buddy told me. “I guess that’s why there are cougars. People are seeing them in their backyards. Some have photos. Rumor has it that they even found a deer carcass in a tree four or five years back. No lie. They say a cougar killed it and dragged it up into a tree. … Wild stuff.”

Which brings me back to last week’s tale of the Winchester cat. While talking to a familiar old source on these matters, one who’s hell-bent on substantiating Pioneer Valley cougars whenever and wherever sightings are reported, I was able to glean a little additional information. His outfit, Cougars of the Valley, presented a Friday-night Blandford lecture that drew an overflow crowd of better than 85, all of them talkative and thoroughly convinced there are cougars in their woods. My source claims the tracks photographed by Winchester police were sent to a panel of seven nationwide experts, including documentary film makers and wildlife officials who live in western cougar country, and all seven agreed the tracks are those of a large cat. Then, of course, MassWildlife experts viewed the snapshots and determined they were dog tracks, which still irks the police who shot the photos. Believe me: the people who call MassWildlife after backyard sightings are no more pleased with the responses they receive from wildlife biologists. In fact, I have spoken to many indignant witnesses who called me because they had been insulted by experts who implied they were either fools or liars.

In a lively telephone chat about this and that with my Cougar of the Valley source, a hospital administrator no less, I touched upon logging practices and ventured quite by chance into a controversial operation now underway in special hardwood forest familiar to me surrounding the Northampton reservoir in West Whately. The man hadn’t visited the site to observe what was occurring there, but he knew Massachusetts Forest Watch activist Chris Matera was the loudest critic, and that caught his attention. In his opinion, Matera is a credible watchdog driven only by a commitment to protecting forest ecosystems, so he holds nothing but respect for the man. In his humble opinion, when Matera starts screaming, those who want to protect forests ought to listen. I myself have followed Matera, spoken to him and folks who have worked with him, and I agree with my source that he has only honorable intentions.

“Two of his target areas were the state forests in Savoy and at October Mountain (in Lee),” my source recalled. “I saw both sites with my own eyes and must agree that loggers left a destructive, disgusting, clear-cut mess. That’s all I can tell you. Matera was concerned about irresponsible logging practices, and he was absolutely right. I was stunned when I observed what had been done there. It was bad, really bad.”

That discussion pulled me right back to Goshen, not far from Savoy, and I told him what my boyhood friend had told me about cougars there. He hadn’t heard anything recent, but chuckled and said, “Yeah, ask state officials about the deer found in the tree up there if you want to see them squirm. They investigated, went into full denial and still refuse to talk about it. I believe there was truth to the report. But trust me, you’re not going to find a anything on the record.”

Hey, you can’t make this stuff up. Maybe I shouldn’t report it. Maybe it’s not true. But I suppose it never hurts to chronicle a news-gathering process. I guess I’ll just keep putting one foot in front of the other and bumping into these random anecdotes, many interrelated, that keep the coals of discovery and inquiry glowing. Then coming at me are questions like this, from the Cougar of the Valley man, who on Wednesday inquired, “Do you suppose your source would talk to me about Goshen? I’d like to get up there to talk to people, look for tracks, maybe set up trail cameras. This is a good spring. By now, the snow’s usually gone, precisely at the time when cougars get active and start following deer to edge habitats. It’s a great time to find tracks if there’s snow.”

With that, I’m outta here, looking for tracks. Yeah, gotta go, eyes and ears wide open for wild little hinterland rumors and devilish backwoods spirits.

Denial Games

I can’t say whether the short introductory note topping an email sent my way this week was fueled by exuberance, defiance or relief. Does it really matter? So let’s just call enthusiastic cougar-researcher Ray Weber triumphant indeed, and leave it at that. OK?

“Well,” he wrote in a delayed, victorious response to a five-month-old email challenge I had issued after viewing inconclusive photos of a backyard cougar he’d sent me, “now we have it!”

Have what? Easy: My Oct. 3 demand for slam-dunk photos before I’d display them on the public square. I guess I’ve gotten fussy over many years of chronicling cougar sightings, especially local ones. Plus, I’ve formed a personal, informed opinion, seen it confirmed on the most unlikely of highways, and have now moved on to bigger and better.

Attached to Weber’s message, which included what now seems like an ancient early-October string of emails between us, were three Winchester Police Department photos in vivid, living color. The snapshots display a crisp, clear animal track in the snow — an imprint believed by everyone who studied it to be that of a cougar, mountain lion, puma, panther or whatever you choose to call the fabled, tawny, mysterious North American predator with a long, black-tipped tail and a spookiest of snarls. Well, that is everyone except the bureaucratic spin doctors of wildlife science, those card-carrying, gilt-plaque experts of their field who are paid by Massachusetts taxpayers to serve as final arbiters for such weighty matters. Their ruling was quite predictable and, even among public servants employed on the police force, annoying … if not outright insulting. Yes, the official MassWildlife assessment was that the tracks had been left by “a member of the Canidae family,” which, in laymen’s terms, means dog or coyote; not what eye witnesses want to hear.

Count Weber among the dismayed for what he perceived to be bold, intentional misinformation at best, and maybe even straight-out institutional dishonesty. He just couldn’t contain his disgust, personally inquiring of the official who made the ruling, “And what type of dog, may I ask, would leave such a track?”

The wildlife biologist, a big MassWildlife cheese, pensively paused before responding and said, “A sheep dog, maybe?”

This mandated denial of any cougar possibility came on the heels of a quite different conclusion from no less than seven nationwide cougar experts who viewed the photos and agreed with on-site police and game wardens alike that the tracks were consistent with those of mountain lions. Oh well, what else is new in the world of New England cougar sightings? Not much, I guess.

Truthfully, it was long ago apparent to me, having followed these sightings for decades, that wildlife officials will never admit any cougar sighting was real unless a dead one they can’t wiggle free from is found on the side of the road. To refresh your memory, that is precisely what, to their shrieking, gasping horror, occurred in the spring of 2011 on the Wilbur Cross Parkway in Milford, Conn., a southern Connecticut hamlet within a faint and fetid whiff of the Big Apple, where Pinstripes and corruption reign supreme. Even more disturbing to “the fellas” back then was the fact that this road-kill — not an escaped pet but a wild South Dakota “disperser” from the Black Hills — had met its fate within a month or so of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s well-publicized reclassification of Eastern Cougars from endangered to “extinct.” Of course, the messenger knew then that only the most astute observers of the nightly newscasts or even news editors themselves would understand a tidy little inconsistency with their announced reclassification. You see, the fact remains that all North American cougars living north, south, east and west belong to the same species, one that was long ago extirpated from the East but has for decades been finding its way back home from the Wild West. Already, there are viable reproductive populations established in Great Lakes country, if in fact they ever left that wet and wild region.

Now let’s think about this for a second or two. The trip from the Great Lakes to here through the Adirondack and Green Mountain ranges is by no means a difficult journey for a noble and elusive cougar, no matter what the biologists try to tell you. It’s funny. The Indians knew cougars were here, held them sacred, wore their teeth and claws as jewelry, and even took them to their graves, a sign of agility, power, forest prowess and ferocity. Now the pro-growth Chamber of Commerce types among us would have you believe both are extinct.

I must confess that I knew better than to immediately jump on this Middlesex County cougar tale, choosing instead to sit back and watch it “develop.” I learned of the story I suspected was due for radical institutional revision the day it made headlines following a credible Feb. 27 sighting in Winchester, located just northwest of Boston, bordered by Lexington west, Melrose east and Woburn north. My informant was a retired state cop who emailed me a link to the town police report with a quick introductory note that read, “Check out the police website. There is an article, dated today, about a sighting. The EPO’s responded and said the tracks ‘strongly resembled that of a mountain lion.’”

According to Weber, a Cougars of the Valley researcher who’s been tracking sightings in the Pioneer Valley, its hills and beyond for four hectic years — and who has spoken at length with police, game wardens and eye witnesses familiar with the case — perplexed Winchester Police Chief Ken Albertelli claims his department had handled some 30 cougar reports in a month before the spit hit the fan. The case finally blossomed when an elderly woman called the dispatcher to report a backyard confrontation between her and the big cat. According to Weber, the woman walked outside to catch the cat descending a backyard tree, tail-first, to the ground, where it turned, looked her square in the face from 50 feet away and ran off into the woods. In awe of what she had seen with her own eyes, the woman went immediately inside to phone police, panting, “Do lions live in Massachusetts?”

Police responded quickly to the scene and had no trouble following the cat’s fresh tracks in the snow, which they photographed for evidence. Many other tracks made by dogs and deer were scattered about the area, making it easy to differentiate between them and what they and game wardens strongly suspected to be cat tracks left by our continent’s largest wild feline.

“It was a big animal,” marveled Weber, who also traveled to the scene and estimated the weight at 120 pounds. “The cops’ boot prints hardly left a mark on the snow, and the cops were big men.”

Weber described the tracks as nearly four inches long, way too big for bobcat tracks, which rarely reach two inches in length.

Thus, Weber said, “Police are not buying the MassWildlife evaluation;” and, secretly, neither are the investigating game wardens who, rather than challenge their colleagues, have hit the mute button like all good public servants should.

Not surprisingly, since the day of the close encounter with the stunned lady, the previously ubiquitous Winchester cat has vanished like a woodland ghost, likely soon to reappear in a woodlot, pasture or thorny swamp near you. And when it finally does resurface someplace, unless it’s a bloody roadside mess, the fellas will surely deny its existence.

Weber called the tracks, “definitely the best thus far discovered in Massachusetts.” But what does that mean when the official press-release finding states “not good enough,” by now a transparent denial that has become irrelevant, a coffee-shop joke.

I really do believe that even the spokespeople issuing official denials these days know they’re — ummm? — not true. Don’t hold your breath waiting for them to admit it.

Whisperin’ Winds

Sights, sounds and smells: hourly stimuli awaiting a well-placed flick of the forefinger to set the pinwheel into a blurry gyre that can flitter off to enticing places, if you let it. If you don’t dare, well, you probably spent too much time in church or school, where free-thinking and free-play is discouraged, maybe even forbidden, if that’s possible. I guess you can either play the game or design your own. Count me among the latter.

What pulled me into this weird train of thought was a common gesture by my demonstrative 3-year-old Springer Spaniel, Chubby, who early this week stuck a familiar pose that brought me back to the previous week, and way, way beyond. His pathetic expressions for sympathy occurred in the yard after breakfast, when we were dry-docked by deep snow, my truck unable to scale roadside snowbanks and park out of harm’s way for our daily rambles. Yeah, yeah, I know what you’re thinking: that that’s no excuse. Obviously, I could have walked my pets on leashes, with a colorful plastic bag dangling from my free hand, such a common sight these days. But, uh-uh, not my style. I’m cut from a different fabric, so to speak; born in a different day, prefer running unrestrained, and my dogs are no different.

Anyway, back to Chubby’s thought-provoking pose, the morning cool, gray and refreshing as we approached the metal gate leading down into Sunken Meadow. When I arrived at the barway and was passing through two sturdy wooden posts, gate ajar, I noticed Chubby standing broadside at the bottom of the double-rutted farm road. It was a familiar, statuesque and quite suggestive pose, ears perked and ready to race through thorny tangles. This day, he was looking for direction. The week before the identical stance begged, “Please, can we hop in the truck and go for a run today.” It hurts when the answer is no, but sometimes the elements dictate.

This week, the scene had shifted and I extended my right arm to the side, like tossing a stone underhand to the right. Chubby didn’t hesitate, was off in a flash, nose high, tail wiggling in glee as Lily sprinted past me to join him. That’s when I wandered off in thought, comparing Chubby’s inquisitive pose to my own plight for more information about Pioneer Valley prehistory. The information’s there. You just have to catch a scent in the wind, chase it, dig for it, sometimes even beg, because the people in control aren’t always cooperative, using one lame looting excuse after another to deny requests for reports, most refusals aimed at secrecy. Still I’ve somehow managed to navigate my way around the obstacles in a snowballing investigation that’s led from subject to subject with the help of books and papers and phone conversations, correspondence and personal visits. I’ve read archaeological reports, visited the sites they describe and scanned old newspapers looking for mention that’s rarely found. Then I ask questions, many of them, followed by many more, the probes connecting lines in an intricate, at times puzzling labyrinth through which experts are still finding their way, and often covering their tracks.

It’s a fact that you must understand ancient human behavior to comprehend the peopling of the Pioneer Valley, the settlement patterns and buried clues. But what I have recently discovered is that, more than that, you must understand the land, because plants and animals depend on it, and primitive humans depended on them to survive. The formula is not really that complex when you think of it. Glaciers melted and formed lakes that drained over time, leaving behind wet, fertile, meandering basins that attracted vegetation, which supported insects and reptiles, and drew foraging birds and beasts, which helped broadcast seeds and attract human predators who ate them. Soon Paleo man also learned to forage selected plants, such as cattails, ferns and water lilies, which, over time, they learned by trial and error could even have medicinal value, thus settlement along the edges of the bottomland swamps and oxbow lakes in green river valleys. As the climate warmed and accelerated drainage, new vegetation took root in the uplands, and foraging humans and beasts reached out to new habitats offering nuts and berries on the near horizon of old habitation sites.

Though I have always viewed ancient Pioneer Valley settlement patterns through a topographical and ecological prism, it was a December visit from a Smith College biology professor that sharpened my focus regarding a place of personal interest and family lore about which I harbor fascination. Aware that there had been a contact-period Indian village there and that many artifacts had been mined from both sides of the Connecticut River over the years — including the earliest colonial decades when my ancestors owned and farmed it — I didn’t know how long Native people had lived there, and had no clue it had been the site of a Paleo lake that drained into an Archaic and probably early Woodland oxbow. From the D-shaped interior parcel separated from the mainland by a 2½-mile river loop curling south from the base of Mt. Sugarloaf arose the name “Island” that I now believe to be of Native origin. Although this oxbow island had vanished long before my ancestors arrived, they likely heard Indians refer to their land as “The Island,” thus continued calling it that for many years, including generations later, by which time all concept of origin was lost. By the time of 18th- century colonial settlement, this rich chunk of fertile terrain had become a valuable agricultural resource that was and still is bordered on the west by what my kinfolk and neighbors called Hopewell Swamp. Only diligent historians and local folks with deep East Whately (or “Canterbury”) roots know that dense, crescent-shaped marsh as Hopewell today. Fewer still have ever heard of the flat, narrow terrace sandwiched between two others referred to as “The Island,” where today Frito-Lay potatoes grow on a long, thin tilled patch.

My focus these days centers on Mt. Sugarloaf and reaches out in a 15-mile radius pulling in  — starting in the south and circling west to north to east — the Northampton Meadows, Hampshire/Franklin’s western hills, Peskeomskut falls at Gill/Turners Falls, and the drainage corridor following Route 63 past Lake Pleasant and the Montague Plains to Cranberry Lake and North Leverett before emptying into the Long Plain (or Sunderland) Delta. There it swings all the way back to the ’Hamp Meadows, through Hadley /Hatfield farmland. This rich bottomland of the Lake Hitchcock drainage would have offered many lush marshes attractive to Paleo people living on the edge and hunting for caribou, waterfowl, fish and who knows what else. Truth be told, there’s still much to be learned, and the time is now, before the ancient footprints fade.

What’s interesting is that throughout my ongoing Pioneer Valley prehistory foray, it just so happens that there stood in the bookcase behind my library desk an important though somewhat dated book I had until two weeks ago neglected to revisit. Published in 1988 and purchased while I was exploring the history of Connecticut Valley Atlantic salmon, “Holocene Human Ecology in Northeastern North America,” edited by UMass-Amherst anthropologist George P. Nicholas, is a collection of scholarly papers, many by UMass scientists, about local/regional prehistory. Combined with the Marjorie Holland/John Burk papers on the WMass oxbows (1982), this collection sharpened my perspective on ecological settlement dynamics here and elsewhere in New England. Then, after phone conversation about the subject with archaeologist Mike Gramly, leader of the September Sugarloaf Site Paleo excavation, the man mailed me follow-up scholarship on the same subject; it’s titled, “Revising the Paleoindian Environmental Picture in Northeastern North America,” by Lucinda McWeeney, an independent, Yale-trained and formerly Yale-employed archaeobotanist at the top of her field.

Despite the importance of the Sugarloaf Site straddling the Deerfield/Whatley line — and the Massachusetts Historical Commission’s acknowledgment of its importance for 40 years running — it is totally ignored in the aforementioned reports above. I find this blackout curious if not troubling and can’t help but wonder why. When archaeologists are uncovering remains and reporting the importance of hazelnuts, water lilies and cattails in Paleo diets from surrounding regional sites, shouldn’t they be attempting to gather corroborating data from known Connecticut Valley sites like the one below Sugarloaf, possibly even Canada Hill in Greenfield or the Turners Falls Airport? Shouldn’t archaebotanists and biologists like McWeeney be begging for permission to take sediment core samples from “The Island” and its bordering Hopewell Swamp in Whately? Even Greenfield’s White Ash Swamp could be a revealing research site. And wouldn’t all this information be helpful in piecing together the bigger puzzle that’s begging to be solved?

It’s difficult to understand the archaeological delay or holding pattern present here in the upper Pioneer Valley, an obstructive secrecy that’s palpable indeed. Where’s the opposition? The public criticism? Isn’t this cutting-edge research that’s ripe for the picking by the Five-College community? Wouldn’t ground-breaking discoveries from such fieldwork become career-defining components of platinum scholarly legacies?

The perspective from King Philip’s Seat hidden high under a shelf on Sugarloaf’s southern point screams that the dysfunctional squabbling is all about politics and must stop for the sake of discovery. Why keep a lid on it? Why conceal information from public view for another second? It makes no sense.

From this perch, it feels like high time to pool resources in a cooperative effort, eliminate petty games and professional jealousies, join heads, and allow a fascinating tale to unfold. The ancient soul of our valley screams as its spirit whispers. Listen to the winds. If you can’t understand the words, they mean, “It’s time.”

Attic Treasure

Whew! This prehistory stuff is attacking like rogue waves, one after another — wild, powerful and quite exciting.

No, I’m not bellyaching. I won’t allow this stubborn winter that’s clinging with a white-knuckled grip to get me down as spring tiptoes in and I lug heavy armfuls of cordwood in from a disappearing woodshed mound, the trip frequency steadier than expected this time of year, when it should start to wane. What else can I do but continue filling the iron stove-side cradle that keeps the hungry, roaring pig fed, me pondering this and that while performing wood-related chores, sometimes muttering under my breath and hoping no one’s listening, always trying to connect the dots, make sense of it all.

Take, for instance, the beautiful maritime-Archaic artifact of beautiful, pale-olive stone, probably slate-like argillite, used to fashion a rare, fluted, ground-stone point purchased by a Vermont buddy at a recent estate sale. The 5,000-year-old, four-inch, semi-polished tool came from a northeast New Hampshire attic chest of drawers, where it had likely lain covered in cloth for decades, perhaps even more than a century, before finally coming to light at what is called a family “dead end” in auction jargon. The purchaser has studied stones for many moons, was intrigued by the banded mottling, thought it unusual enough to pursue and bought it. He then photographed it and e-mailed the images to me, aware by following me online that his latest find was right in my wheelhouse.

When friend Bud Driver stopped by to chat on Friday, I shared the fresh photos with him. He couldn’t contain his enthusiasm, marveling, “Wow! What a beautiful piece. I’d love to get my hands on that, take a closer look through an eyepiece or under a microscope. I can’t say I’m familiar with the base. I’ve never seen ears like that. You ought to send the photos to Bruce Bourque. He could probably identify it.”

I called the purchaser and told him I had a visitor who wanted to examine his artifact, asap. “Come on down,” he said without hesitation, and off we went a half-hour north. Once there, Driver, a longtime amateur archaeologist and collector, was delighted to discover that my friend not only owned a jeweler’s eyepiece but a microscope as well, both of which he put to good use for minute evaluation, which only got better the longer he studied the maker’s marks. Judging from the two edges of what he called a knife, he figured the man (or possibly woman) who carried it was a lefty, an opinion that blew the man who bought it away, made the visit even more rewarding.

A few days later, about 9 a.m. Monday, Driver phoned to say he was headed to a Greenfield appointment and hoped to stop by with some documents he wanted to share. Despite the mess delivered by my grandsons’ weekend visit, the dining room reluctantly cleared as a temporary gymnasium, I told him I’d be waiting and, sure enough, his gray Toyota pickup rolled up the driveway at 10:30, me just dressed out of the shower, my wife at the sink in her bathrobe. He had in his right hand many pieces of paper wrapped around a long white tube containing maps as we walked toward my study for copying duties and, well before crossing the threshold to my inner sanctum, the subject quickly jumped back to my buddy’s handsome Indian artifact. Driver was still raving about it, said it should be professionally photographed and sketched, maybe even cast and sent around for expert evaluation. He even suggested it may be significant enough to justify an illustrated article in the “Massachusetts Archaeological Society Bulletin,” the organization’s official publication. The piece was, in his humble opinion, that important; potentially one of a kind. Plus, the basal fluting with the flared ears had to be a clue to the place of origin. Where that place was he could only surmise, even though he had studied Northeastern maritime-Archaic culture.

Although I remained silent, it was right then and there that I decided to learn more about the photos I possessed. When Driver left, I immediately e-mailed them to Bourque, the respected Maine State Archaeologist and author of “Twelve Thousand Years: American Indians in Maine” (2001) and “The Swordfish Hunters: The History and Ecology of an Ancient American Sea People” (2012). Having bought (and read) Bourque’s latest book from his friend and fellow archaeologist Mike Gramly — leader of the September Sugarloaf Site Paleo dig along the Deerfield/Whately line — I recommended it to the man who bought the ground-stone point of this discussion. My friend promptly bought the book online and read it, familiarizing himself with the beautiful color photos of artifacts characteristic of Maine’s Red-Paint Culture. Then, when perusing the recent auction lots and stumbling upon the handsome ground-stone tool, he recognized it, piquing his interest. Bourque’s e-mail evaluation of the photos only enhanced my friend’s appreciation of his recent purchase. Praising it as, “by far, the nicest specimen I’ve ever seen,” (and few if any have seen more), Bourque, a Princeton native and Bates College professor explained: “These fluted-base, ground-stone points are seen occasionally in Maine west of the Kennebec (River), but so far none are from datable contexts. I’d guess they’re around 5000 years old, maybe older, probably not younger.”

It gets better. After speaking to Gramly early Wednesday morning, an excited Driver phoned to say his friend was eager to view the photos. “When I began to describe the base to him, he stopped me and described it to me,” Driver gasped. “He’s excited, and really wanted me to call you for the photos. He can’t contain his enthusiasm. He said he’s dug those points with own hands in New Hampshire.”

Well, at that point, with deadline looming large and my hourglass quickly draining, I knew I was playing with fire but jumped right into the raging conflagration. Hey, if I make a harmless little mistake, I can always correct it next week, right? I too am excited about this discovery and would like to get it “out there” sooner than later. Who knows what new information will arise? It’s not out of the realm of possibility that someone else has such an artifact tucked away or has seen an identical piece somewhere else. But I had to cross my fingers and hope Gramly would promptly respond. Finally at between noon and 1 Wednesday, my phone rang and it was Gramly, his infectious enthusiasm immediately driving the most pleasing pulsations down my right ear canal.

“Those photos you sent display a rather elegant example of a ground-stone point with a fluted base,” he gushed. “I’d call it a bayonet. In 1979, I unearthed a similar point, about four inches long, certainly resharpened, at the Molls Rock site near Lake Umbagog in extreme eastern New Hampshire. As I recall, we also found a tip of what might have been another point of this shape. I published pictures of the specimen in the little 1980 site report I wrote. It’s shown in Figure 3 of the essay ‘Molls Rock: A Multi-component Site in Northern New Hampshire’ (Man in the Northeast 24: 121-134).

“The absolute age of this variety of ground-stone point is yet unknown, and their exact cultural affiliations are likewise unknown,” he continued. “Certainly they belong to the Archaic Period. If I were to guess, I would have them fall within the period 3000-2000 B.C. Fluted, ground-stone points seem to be confined to interior New England.”

Bourque’s book would suggest a Red-Paint origin, though I don’t want to put words in his mouth. And with that, I gotta go, am outta time.

Who knows what next week will bring? I suppose after all these years I’m ready for just about anything. Hopefully, though, new information won’t come at me like this week’s 11th-hour tsunami did.

When you sit in a seat like mine, sometimes you just gotta take whatever, whenever, then let ’er rip and hope for the best.

Till next week, off I go.

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