Unlikely Guests

I was returning home from running the dogs when, as I climbed the gentle slope to my home, I spotted activity along the eastern perimeter of my yard, several vehicles, people milling about. Then, as I got closer, it was clear to me who they were. It was a salmon-stocking crew from the Connecticut River Coordinator’s office in Sunderland, solid individuals chasing the honorable dream of restoring Atlantic salmon to the Connecticut River valley.

What an ironic twist of fate. Of all places in our expansive valley to set up shop, they had chosen the yard of a man many of them consider Public Enemy No. 1 of their program. Myself, I was humored by the development, determined to hospitably greet my guests once I kenneled the dogs, and that’s exactly what I did on a bright, pleasant, cheerful spring morning.

As I walked across my front yard toward the crew, two women were standing on the bed of a khaki-colored U.S. Fish & Wildlife truck, transferring tiny salmon fry from what was probably a 500-gallon circular tank into rectangular, five-gallon white pails, which were being walked to the banks of Hinsdale Brook for stocking. I reached the crowd, met eyes with a tall, light-curly-haired, approachable man wearing dark glasses and exchanged brief pleasantries before asking a simple question.

“Is it possible that Jan Rowan is among you?”

“Yes she is. That’s her standing right there on the truck.”

I moved close enough to lean on the truck, looked the Connecticut River Coordinator herself square in her shade-covered eyes and said, “I thought I’d come out to introduce myself. Do you know who I am?

“Yep, I do. I see your picture in the newspaper.”

So there we stood, political adversaries of sorts, but reasonable souls with nothing personal between us, meeting face to face for the first time. It was beautiful. Lo and behold, not only did I have the head honcho of the Connecticut River Atlantic Salmon Restoration Program on my turf, but she was accompanied by none other than MassWildlife Anadromous Fish Project Leader Caleb Slater, the tall, pleasant man I had first spoken to. With them was a dedicated mixed-gender crew that probably curses me in their sleep for my unpopular opinion that their program is doomed to failure through no fault of their own. They know the numbers support my position but resent me nonetheless for making it public. But I’m not a promoter, I’m a newsman, and however you want to spin it, the news about salmon restoration in New England is not good. After more than four decades of stocking immature, hatchery-born, Connecticut River-strain salmon progeny into tributaries up and down the valley like the one that flows through my back yard, all they have to show is a hundred or two annual returns, certainly nothing to write home about.

It’s not the story I want to report now, or wanted to tell nearly 30 years ago, when I began tracking anadromous-fish-migration numbers for print. No, to be honest, I’d much rather sing praise of a success story akin to the turkey and bear and deer and striped-bass restorations we’re so familiar with. But those success stories bear absolutely no resemblance to this salmon-restoration effort, and if I’m worth my salt as a reporter, that’s what has to be written. I have no choice. It comes down to simple credibility, a newsman’s lifeblood. Without it I’m dead.

So, it was nice to meet the shepherds of our salmon program, to strike up a friendly conversation about a subject we cannot, for professional reasons, agree on. But it’s not personal. I hope they understand that.

Rooted

Published: Thursday, May 07, 2009

The Japanese maples out front are brilliant red, unintentionally hiding blissful cardinals singing their happy springtime tunes as moist saucer-magnolia petals fall softly to the lawn. Is there a better green than that of May? I think not, so vibrant and pure.

As I watch spring unfold from my peaceful study’s desk, perhaps I should rejoice. It’s a time when my column fills itself like a toilet, lots happening, news flying at me in many forms from all directions, turkeys gobbling within earshot. The stocking trucks are rolling as dam lifts and ladders transport anadromous fish up our Connecticut Valley to spawn. Soon our deer-harvest numbers will be out, another easy column delivered straight to my Inbox like Meals on Wheels. How convenient. But that’s not what satisfies me. I would much rather create than copy, find it far more challenging, fulfilling. But I guess that’s just me, certainly no mainstreamer in this or any game I’ve ever played, idiosyncratic to a fault, no fan of convention, the norm.

So here I sit, a week-and-a-half into the turkey season and I, a local outdoor columnist, haven’t once been out. It’s not that I don’t want to. I love turkey hunting. Find it invigorating, captivating. Never a bad day. But I’m no longer willing to make the physical sacrifice of waking early and dragging my butt to work at night. The fatigue piles up like 50-pound bags on a pallet, just isn’t worth it to me. And when you think of it, who else matters? The simple answer is no one. I have nothing to prove, am comfortable in my own skin, and view myself no less a man when failing to fill a hunting tag.

Yeah, I know the obvious question: Why must I wake before light to hunt turkeys? Can’t you go out later, hunt the last few instead of the first few hours? Well, it may be difficult to comprehend but that’s not turkey hunting to me. I have to be there before the birds sing. If not, it’s a waste. What else can I say? The woods at daybreak and 9 a.m. are radically different. If you’ve been there, you know what I mean. I want daybreak. Nothing else. It sets the tone.

Although I haven’t hunted, it’s not like I’ve been sitting idly. Quite the contrary. I’ve been keeping up with chores around home and doing what I usually do in my spare time: studying old roads and maps; researching genealogies, town histories, diaries; firing off e-mails; working the phones; riding the backwoods with a venerable, retired county engineer to pick his fertile brain and learn the fading county roads and paths, the town boundaries altered by annexation. Just Tuesday I had in my hand a church record book from 1771-1821, recorded in Rev. Rufus Wells’ handwriting. In a remarkable state of preservation, the hard covers wore a supple leather skin undoubtedly cured at my fifth great-grandfather’s 18th century Canterbury tannery. This priceless source is securely held in a private home, so it was quite a treat to view it; totally cool, fascinating in my little world.

It’s one thing to know the wildlife and fish in our woods and waters, another altogether to understand the human settlement and abandonment patterns of the landscapes these creatures today inhabit. My goal is to make connections, ones most hunters have no desire to learn. But that’s them. I’m me. I have no problem with their perspective and see no reason why they should question mine.

Maybe I traipse around to the beat of a different fiddler, one made of native wood by native hands; a yard-sale clunker to some, to me, a sweet Stradivarius.

The way I see it, it’s important to know who you are and where you’re from. Isn’t that where it all starts and ends?

Falltown Gore

I was poking around East Colrain last week, something I’ve done quite a bit lately, there and in Heath, another upland jewel in our western hills. Along the way, I bumped into a man I first met when we were both Frontier Regional schoolboys. He happened to abut the parcel I was exploring and was out tidying-up his lawn and tinkering with his lawnmower on an refreshing spring afternoon, around 4.

The snow had finally melted enough for a comfortable, in places soggy, walk through the crackly woods, which I had already completed when I popped into my old schoolmate’s back yard and stopped to chat about this and that, beginning with the long-overdue arrival of spring in the hills behind my home. He too was happy to breathe fresh, warm spring air, which undoubtedly had lured him out for afternoon chores, but he was quick to point out that it was still winter in the gorge below, the one known to natives as Bernardston Gore, before that Falltown Gore, a natural obstruction that created hardships for pioneer on both sides.

“I drove through Green River Road this morning and it’s still winter down there, deep snow and ice on the steep banks near where the road washed out,” he said. “Take a ride if you don’t believe me. There’s still a ways to go down there.”

Knowing the unforgiving terrain in that deep ravine, I didn’t doubt him but had no interest in revisiting winter. I had my fill weeks ago, to be perfectly honest. But it did get me thinking about that “gore,” the one our earliest colonial settlers, some of them ancestors living just west of the Green River, found to be quite an obstacle in their daily travels, particularly Sunday treks of an ecclesiastical nature.

Going back to the original early 18th century land grants of Boston Townships 1 and 2, which have become northwestern Franklin County, a chunk of what is today Colrain along the western bank of the Green River belonged to Bernardston (Falltown), forcing residents to take an arduous, 14-mile weekly trip to church and back. The route meandered south through parts of the current Shelburne and Greenfield, then looped back north and east to Bernardston, presumably crossing the Green River near the Pumping Station ford. That trip became unnecessary once East Colrain built its own meeting house on Chandler Hill, but before Bernardston Gore inhabitants could attend the Colrain church, the colonial government in Boston had to annex it to Colrain, and, like any bureaucratic venture, it didn’t happen overnight.

Having fished that section of the Green many times over the years, even way before I moved into “the neighborhood,” I am familiar with the steep, picturesque Falltown Gore and can sympathize with early inhabitants whose 1771 petition to Gov. Thomas Hutchinson I recently reviewed. The petitioners with names like Workman, Clark, Henry, and Lukas ask the governor to approve setting off their section of Bernardston to Colrain due to hardship in travel to and from church services. They cited difficulty crossing Green River when swollen, and the impossibility of building a road through the gorge as the main reasons for their request. Before 1780, the request was granted and Bernardston Gore became an extension of East Colrain. Today, trout fishing, swimming and deer hunting are the primary activities there. An east-west road through there has never been attempted and never will be. You just don’t cross geographic divides like Bernardston Gore. You follow them through or go around.

What Eats Fawns?

Head to the barber shop, newsstand or corner greasy-spoon and you’re bound to hear discussion about coyotes — a hybrid wild canine that appeared on the local scene some 40 years ago, when loggers, hunters and farmers occasionally encountered what was then referred to as “wild dogs,” believing German shepherd-mix strays had adapted to the wild and were living on the fringe of civilization.

When it later became apparent that we were dealing with a new species, not a domestic mongrel gone wild, the beasts were called “coy dogs,” the prevailing wisdom speculating a midsized wild canine of coyote/domestic-dog mix. Then, as the population exploded and it became clear that these “coy dogs” were, indeed, a new wild canine species unique to the Northeastern, biologists called them Eastern coyotes, larger versions of the the Western coyote. Why these animals were larger than their cousins was puzzling, but some scientists believed we may be dealing with a Great Lakes cross between the Eastern timber, or gray, wolf and the Western coyote. The logic was that the gray wolf had been driven west by early New England colonists, the Western coyotes were driven east by Western settlers, and the two species collided and bred in the desolate Great Lakes region. The new species first appeared around the Great Lakes, migrated into New York and Vermont by the mid-20th century, and showed up here slightly later. Eastern coyotes are found statewide today, inhabiting even metropolitan areas, where they are a common sight along the highway and at the rubbish bin.

Our coyotes are known killers of house cats, livestock and fowl, and are believed to have a negative impact on our deer population despite a lack of scientific evidence. Still, with or without hard evidence, if you want to get a good lively coffee-shop or tavern discussion going, suggest that coyotes are not killing deer and brace for the argument.

During my decades-long keeping of this space, no subject has attracted more attention than the coyote/deer relationship. “Why don’t you write about coyotes killing deer?” the readers implore. The answer is that it’s difficult to assess an issue without facts on which to base a conclusion. Simply stated, despite what hunters tell you, the fact that they routinely spot coyote tracks following deer does not prove that coyotes are doing great damage to our deer herd. What you need to find is deer carcasses and blood and body parts, and the fact is that few woodsmen — including the most outspoken coyote haters — seem to be finding much evidence.

“Surprisingly, not much real research (on coyote predation of deer) has been conducted in the Northeast,” reported United States Fish & Wildlife biologist and former MassWildlife deer project leader John McDonald. “Some work was done in New Brunswick in the late 1990s, but nothing really in the New England states.”

Even the state’s deer-radio-collaring project has provided no useful information regarding the issue. That statewide initiative has proven that coyotes eat deer, not that they kill the deer they eat.

“I don’t know that any of the radio-collared deer that were obviously fed on by coyotes could be said to have been killed by coyotes,” McDonald wrote in an e-mail. “I know that a couple that died had been dead too long by the time we got to them to determine what killed them.”

If coyotes are only scavenging weak, injured or road-killed deer, then who could have a problem with that? The answer is nobody. But there’s also the contention that coyotes are taking their share of newborn spring fawns, which is always a possibility, and there’s no data available to dispute that claim. In fact, a recent fawn-survival study conducted in Pennsylvania reported that coyotes did indeed kill fawns, as did black bears. “However, deer densities there are much higher than we have here,” wrote McDonald, who went on to address the bear issue.

“When I led the (Massachusettts) bear-research program, we looked at hundreds of scats over several years and only found fawn remains in one that I can recall,” he wrote. “For bears, predation on deer fawns can be opportunistic, i.e., if a bear runs into a fawn it can kill, it will. But for them to learn how to hunt them and be regular predators, there has to be a lot of fawns around. Then it would be worthwhile and possible for the bear to learn how to do it.”

Hmmmm? A new twist, huh? Now we’re bringing bears into the equation. Like coyotes, bears are a relatively new phenomenon to this state. They are indigenous but had been scarce until the past two decades; similar to the gray wolf, which was wiped out by colonial bounty hunters and has now been replaced in the predatory chain by the “brush wolf ” or Eastern coyote.

Can there be any doubt that as the bear density increases and spring forage is at a minimum, they will or already have learned to hunt newborn fawns. It makes sense. So does coyote predation. But it also seems unlikely either predator will make too dramatic a dent in the expanding deer population. Nature has a way of figuring out the right formula.

Save the Brookies

May 2006

An alarming news release arrived in my Inbox. The headline read: “New Data Shows Brook Trout Imperiled Throughout Entire Eastern Range: Massachusetts Brook Trout Populations Threatened by Dams and Roads.”

Troubling.

We’re not talking here about the stocked hatchery brookies anglers have been catching in small streams this spring. No. We’re talking about the native “squaretails” we all grew up with; those steel-blue, brilliantly spotted freshwater fish that, as fingerlings, breaded lightly with corn flour, are a cast-iron delight dating back to colonial times. A salmonid of the char family, Eastern brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) are regarded by many as North America’s most beautiful freshwater fish. Count me among them.

I grew up catching native squaretails, big and small, in local waters I would never identify in print; and although I haven’t fished those waters in a generation, I believe they’re still there, beautiful and tasty as ever. However, that assumption may not be accurate given recent findings by Trout Unlimited and a coalition of state and federal agencies that collaborated on the recent report, “Eastern Brook Trout: Status and Threats.” Researchers found that “brook trout survive in less than half of their original range in Massachusetts.”

“Brook trout are the canary in the coal mine when it comes to water quality,” said Gary Berti, Trout Unlimited’s Eastern brook brout campaign coordinator. “The presence of brook trout in a watershed indicates that water quality is excellent. Declining brook trout populations can provide an early warning that the health of an entire stream, lake or river is at risk.”

The brookie havens I know well are probably still producing the gorgeous native fish, albeit fewer than during my boyhood days when I vividly recall watching trophy brookies spawn each fall at a secluded old mill site in the woods. I assume that they’re still there because the site is located within the remaining “few patches of relatively strong Massachusetts brook trout habitat” pinpointed in the press release. That region includes the Berkshire and Taconic mountains, portions of the Hoosic, Deerfield and Westfield watersheds, and several Connecticut River tributaries. Otherwise, according to the release, brook trout have been eliminated from seven percent of their historical Massachusetts habitat and are greatly reduced in another 28 percent of habitat that once supported them.

“While these results are sobering, we are already pursuing many opportunities for conservation of remaining high-quality habitat as well as restoration of impaired streams,” said MassWildlife aquatic biologist Todd Richards. “Our collective challenge is to protect the best remaining habitat and restore the rest.”

While there is no denying the looming threat, the outlook is far from hopeless, according to Warren Winders, brook trout coordinator for TU’s Massachusetts Council.

“Brookies are quick to respond to habitat improvements,” he explained.  “We have already seen the results of our work with state and federal partners on Quashnet River and Red Brook. By scaling up these programs throughout the state and region, we will see wild brook trout returning to our streams.  And that’s great news for all of us who love to fish locally with our families and friends.”

Winders’ assessment represents the first stage of the Eastern Brook Trout Joint Venture’s collaborative efforts to restore habitat. The venture was initiated in 2002 as a pilot program of the National Fish Habitat Initiative. Participants include fish and wildlife agencies from 17 states, federal partners, conservation organizations and academic institutions. The results of this assessment will be used to develop state-by-state strategies for brook trout conservation and recovery.

The full report, as well as state-specific data and maps, is available at www.brookie.org. Print it out, chew on it a while and see if you get the same rotten taste I did.

Why Pull the Plug?

I was e-mail queried the other day by an unknown reader who, it turned out, was a blogger interested in my opinion about continuing the Connecticut River Atlantic Salmon Restoration Program, which began in 1967 with the now impossible goal of establishing a viable sport fishery.

The question read: “Gary, is it fair to say you’re against the restocking effort because it’s ineffective, or because it’d be good to use those funds in another way?”

I first spotted the query at work going through my Web mail during a brief dead spot, made a note of it and revisited it upon retuning home after midnight. That’s when my cranial wheels got to spinning like bald tires in a shiny black mudhole. Yes, I have often called the program a failure and cited numbers, ones the experts implore us to ignore, to support my position. No, we never will enjoy that pie-in-the-sky sport-fishery we set out to establish way back when. And now, with the herring runs bordering on extinction and shad runs greatly diminished due to global warming and other factors, all Connecticut River anadromous fish migrations could be endangered. Still, I can make a case for continuing the cooperative, interactive, 41-year-old restoration effort, which, despite the salmon failure, has been a positive conservational influence on streams big and small throughout the Connecticut River basin.

I guess it comes down to politics and philosophy, and anyone who has read this space for any length of time knows I’m no conservative. The question I ask myself is: Where would we be now if there had never been a salmon-restoration program? What would our Millers and Deerfield rivers look or smell like today? How about the Chicopee and the Westfield; what would their status be? So it really shouldn’t come down to one issue, salmon, when assessing the restoration program, because it runs much deeper than that.

I remember the Connecticut and Millers rivers when you wouldn’t want to stick your little toe into them for more than an instant, that filthy. Today people are water skiing and bird watching and swimming, all byproducts of salmon restoration and river clean-up.

And how can our evaluation of the failed program come down to dollars and cents given the trillions we’re wasting elsewhere on far more damaging, potentially world-altering adventures for the benefit of greedy billionaires?

So, yeah, the salmon program has been a failure. There’s no other way to evaluate it. And had the shepherds of the program done their homework before embarking on the project, they would have learned that the Connecticut River never was an important Atlantic salmon river, except for a perhaps a 300-year window during the Little Ice Age, which happened to coincide with New England settlement.

But pull the plug? Why?

Like I told the blogger who queried me: To me, the vocal critic, 200 annual salmon returns is better than none. But that’s just one man’s opinion, one who is light-years removed from mainstream political thought.

We could and often do spend far more on less worthy projects.

It Doesn’t Add Up?

Published: Thursday, June 18, 2009

What you see is what you get. That’s about the status of anadromous-fish passage here in the Happy Valley.

If you’re content with maybe 200 Atlantic salmon and less than 200,000 American shad annually, rejoice, you’ve got it. Want more? Too bad. Ain’t happening anytime soon. Not now or ever. Case closed. Rhetoric be damned.

Yeah, I know, the recent gray, unsettled weather has stabilized the Connecticut River temperature in the mid-60s, prolonging the annual run. More shad and salmon may yet appear before it climbs to 70 and they stop migrating. Uh-hu, could happen. And maybe you’ll discover the money tree if you walk through the woods on enough hot, steamy days. Then again, perhaps if you suffer here on earth, there’ll be a better day in mythical paradise. Get the point? It’s all about that pot of gold. Some chase it. Some don’t. Count me among the latter. In my finite world, reality ain’t that hard to swallow.

I’ve seen the white, extended-cab, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service trucks out along our dirt roads in recent weeks, crews depositing immature Connecticut River-strain salmon progeny into our bubbly streams. I’ve seen them in my back yard, in Whately, in Conway, in Ashfield. You name it, for decades they’ve been there. True-believers, these altruistic souls doing the stocking. Totally committed. Ignore the numbers, they say. Numbers are irrelevant.

Imagine that: numbers meaningless, at least so long as they’re depressing. Tell me, do you suppose they’d still be meaningless if the salmon-count miraculously jumped to 1,000, 1,500, 15,000? Yeah, sure. Give me a break. Let that happen and you’ll hear about salmon numbers on your radio, your TV, in the newspapers (if any survive), and from the red-clad town crier with the long brass bugle. You couldn’t escape it if you tried. Sort of like Chandra Levy or Terri Shiavo. They’d slap you upside the head with their numbers then, the same ones they now call insignificant. And trust me, the media would swallow it hook, line and sinker, hawk it like a Fenway frank. ”Hear ye, hear ye!” they’d bark. ”Read all about it! The salmon are back!” They’d flash it on the tube, tease to it in the crawl along the bottom of the screen. Breaking news: long-lost salmon are back in New England.

But when the numbers are embarrassing, as they are today, it’s all about damage control, propaganda, classroom deception and field trips; chasing yellow swallowtails through goldenrod meadows. Patience, jackass, patience: that’s the message. Don’t you understand? Numbers are meaningless in scientific experiments. Yeah, right! Sounds good. And while you’re at it, stop by, I’ve found the Holy Grail in my attic. Honest. There it was, buried in a stack of old plates; cups and saucers; goblets, too. I’ll let it go cheap to a worthy man, if there is such a thing.

As much as I hate to admit it, I have been looking at the numbers for three decades; studying them, comparing them, trying to digest them, make sense of it all. Guess what? They’re trending in the wrong direction. Has anyone else noticed? Shhhhhhhhh. There I go again, mentioning numbers. I should realize by now that they don’t matter. How could I forget? Shame, shame, shame on me, the gadfly, buzzing in their faces, stinging the back of their necks, the small of their legs, burrowing into their eye sockets, their ears; no relief, an unmerciful pest. Oh, how the truth stings.

So, just in case you were wondering, 69 salmon and 157,000 shad had been counted in the river basin through Tuesday. That’s fresh off the federal Web site, updated daily; then confirmaton by direct e-mail straight from the Connecticut River Coordinator’s office. By the way, if numbers aren’t important, then why do they record them daily, annually, historically? Why don’t they hide them in the same vault with their expense sheets? You tell me. Sometimes it’s hard to figure.

All I can say is that I’m giving it my best shot. Not good enough, I guess, because I refuse to play the fool.

Truth is, it takes only a simple mind to see that something just doesn’t add up.

Mr. Wells Is Irked

Octogenarian Edward M. Wells, a former Braintree educator enjoying blissful retirement nestled in Leyden’s gentle hills, has issues with our Connecticut River Atlantic salmon-restoration effort. First, he’s tired of stocked salmon progeny interfering with his native brook-trout angling along shaded, backwoods, Franklin County streams; second, he’s tired of the propaganda.

Wells was so stirred up last summer that he fired off a complaint to MassWildlife. He was reacting to “Brook Trout in Massachusetts,” a Kathleen Campbell article about conservation efforts aimed at rebuilding declining Eastern Brook Trout populations in the Northeast. The story was published in “Massachusetts Wildlife,” MassWildlife’s popular quarterly magazine. It was one of many stories, including more than one in this space, published in the Northeast last year during a media blitz by Trout Unlimited and the Eastern Brook Trout Joint Venture — a watchdog organization uniting private conservation and academic groups with 17 state fish and wildlife agencies and federal partners under one altruistic tent. The goal was to protect and build dwindling wild-brook-trout habitat, some of the best of which exists right here in our Franklin/Hampshire and southern Vermont hills.

Wells’ opinion, formed after three-quarters-of-a-century-worth of fishing experience on local streams, is that one quick way to protect our indigenous brookies is to quit polluting their native streams with foreign, hatchery-raised invaders called Connecticut River Atlantic salmon progeny. Mr. Wells stated his contentions succinctly in an erudite, July 10, 2006 letter to the editors of Massachusetts Wildlife. He’s still waiting for a response. Let’s excerpt the letter here:

“If the global attention now given to environmental issues is valid, it stresses that we humans must learn to control our waste products in a responsible manner. This does not include the delusional and irresponsible dumping of Atlantic salmon fry in our mixed-forest, glacially spawned, beautiful New England brooks, so unique and delightful.

“As a dedicated, non-purist, worm-fisherman who uses a modest, no-frills fly rod, I am distressed to spend an outing catching these huge-eyed, little nibblers who have usurped my favorite spots and greatly diminished the number of native trout by their consumption of the available stream nutrients.”

After praising state, federal and private organizations for a job well done improving the water quality of our Connecticut River and its tributaries as a byproduct of anadromous-fish restoration over the past 30 or 40 years, Wells gets back to his diatribe against salmon stocking:

“The unreasoned release of millions (literally) of raised fry and smolts is deceptive and counter-productive in light of the clear impossibility of these fish reaching Long Island Sound and returning to their spawning sites. The existence of multiple dams on almost all of our stream drainage precludes this. The Volstead Act (Prohibition) of the 1920s was a noble experiment also, but it was doomed (or damned) by its idealist frailty.

“To enlist school kids in these failed ecology projects is both deceptive and poor science. Give it up, please.”

Before we proceed, be it known that Mr. Wells does read this column but was not aware that I became an outspoken critic of our salmon program during the 90s, following exhaustive research on the status of salmon migration in colonial New England. It’s not that I’m against the program. Quite the contrary, I initially viewed the initiative favorably, and still accept it as worthwhile, albeit barely. My salient oppositional point has always been that we’re trying to restore a Connecticut River salmon run that was never great, even during the golden era of the Little Ice Age, which ended during the first quarter of the 19th century. Even then the mouth of the Connecticut River was at the southern extreme of a North American salmon range defined by water temperature. So what hope exists with the earth warming at an alarming rate, and with it the water temperatures of historic New England salmon rivers like the Penobscot, Merrimack and Connecticut?

During the first 150 years of New England settlement, the sight of a 45-pound Atlantic salmon in the nets of shad fishermen below Peskeumskut Falls was a celebratory event, akin to a contemporary Colrain hunter bagging an 11-point, 205-pound racker. Salmon-restoration officials will dispute that informed opinion unless they do the research. But according to more than one critic within the professional anadromous-fish fraternity, the “true-believers” are not interested in history, and they’re not interested in numbers, either.

Imagine that! Doctors and masters of science who ignore numbers, the very basis of scientific experimentation. It’s true. Defenders of the salmon-restoration program must ignore numbers because they’re clear as a starlit February sky, screaming that the program has been a dismal failure. How else to describe an initiative that has deposited hundreds of millions of immature salmon into Connecticut River basin streams for an annual return of about 200? And let’s be honest: Two hundred salmon swimming up the Connecticut River basin is like a microscopic speck of dust floating in a 5000-gallon tank of water. You do the math. It ain’t encouraging.

The original goal of our salmon-restoration program was to create a recreational fishery on the Connecticut and its major tributaries, such as the Westfield, Deerfield, Millers, West and White rivers. Now, whispering officials will admit that initial goal will neven be realized, period. It’s out of the question. But they can’t admit it because there would be public outcry and potential program termination. So instead, the loyal employees shepherd a massive public-relations campaign aimed at what Wells calls “schoolkids,” who raise tiny salmon in their classroom aquariums and release them into local streams hoping they’ll return as spawning adults. Perhaps they should instead learn to pray, because the probability that one of their fish will return is about equal to winning the lottery. That’s what they don’t tell the kids, who will forever nourish a romantic myth planted by dishonest “education.”

“What really got to me was the way they manipulate the kids,” said Wells, 41 years a teacher. “I see the pictures and stories in the paper, smiling teachers and kids releasing salmon into our streams with the hope they’ll be back to spawn. It’s pure deception. They’re trying to put a happy face on an impossible dream.”

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. It gets worse. You see, Wells attended a student field trip to a local facility that sent his blood pressure skyrocketing. During a presentation, one of the workers told the idealistic students that it was comforting to know that someday his grandchildren would be able to stand on the banks of the Connecticut River and catch Atlantic salmon.

“He wasn’t telling the truth,” said Wells, emphatic that he’s not angry, just disappointed with the dishonesty. “He was a nice man, very knowledgeable, but what he told those kids was wrong, in my opinion. He knows a recreational salmon fishery is unattainable.”

At this point it’s not about truth and integrity; it’s about planting the seed of hope in future generations, political spin created to shape policy and keep the money flowing into a failed program. These committed, well-meaning scientists are not evil people worthy of scorn. They’re bright, articulate scientists attempting to perpetuate a myth and preserve a wonderful job located in a slice of paradise known as the Connecticut Valley.

I guess you can’t blame them for that.

Declining Herring, Shad

June 27, 2007

A recent development relating to Connecticut River anadromous fish must have officials worried, and this issue has nothing to do with Atlantic salmon.

Yes, the salmon numbers are still pathetic. That’s a constant. But now there are storm clouds hovering over other marine species that migrate upriver annually to spawn, namely river herrings. The fact is that blueback herring and alewife have virtually disappeared from the river while American shad are greatly diminished. That could spell trouble on the horizon.

When criticized about disappointing salmon runs that have averaged around 200 over the past 40 years, restoration officials have tried in recent years to justify their program’s existence by pointing to the bountiful herring and shad runs brought about by major improvements in water quality and aquatic habitat. The small herrings have little or no value other than bait in the sportfishing community, but the recreational shad fishery is popular, drawing thousands of anglers annually. The current problem is that shad numbers have dropped from around a million annually to about 200,000, which is troubling. Do the math. Anglers with memories of fishing the Holyoke tailrace when 750,000 shad were lifted over that dam must notice a significant difference when a mere 170,000 are lifted there, and that’s been the case the past couple of years.

As an observer who’s followed the anadromous runs for nearly 30 consecutive years and fished often for shad during the 1980s, I noticed the plummeting numbers in the 90s and queried officials for answers. The most common explanation was that a striped-bass moratorium had greatly increased stocks of large, predatory stripers, a factor that could be directly related to diminishing river-herring numbers, including shad. But, frankly, that never made a lot of sense to a man who studies history, particularly New England and Connecticut Valley history. I think in the historical context, which pokes a gaping hole in the striped-bass-predation theory.

Haven’t river herrings and stripers always co-existed in the Connecticut River system? Weren’t there more large stripers and also more herring in the Connecticut River between the Contact Period and the Revolution than there are today? How, then, can we blame the disappearance of herrings on striped-bass predation? It defies logic.

Connecticut River Coordinator Janice Rowan says, “We have evidence that stripers are playing a role but questions remain about the size of that role.” So, in an attempt to answer that question, a study that began in 2005 is being conducted by University of Connecticut doctoral candidate Justin Davis and supervised by Associate Professor Eric Schultz, Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Science and co-director of the Environmental Science Program.

“We agree that (the declining-herring issue) is not likely to be a single-factor story,” wrote Schultz in an e-mail. “The ocean fishery for herring may be playing a role, but quantifying that impact will be difficult. Other predators may be important. Other threats that should be considered include warming trends in coastal waters, rainfall patterns, and increasing water withdrawals in coastal regions.”

Davis and a research team have been electrofishing for striped bass and using a stomach pump to examine their diet, while another crew has been tagging a releasing stripers that will be tracked and studied.

According the Schultz: “We will be putting together several sources of data in this way: gut contents of striped bass combined with data and assumptions about digestion rates, yield estimates of how many river herring a striped bass in the Connecticut eats in a season. Our tag-recapture experiment will yield estimates of abundance of bass in the Connecticut, so that we can estimate how many herring are consumed by stripers in the river in a season. Our final intent is to put this in a historical context so that we can estimate what portion of the herring decline is attributable to striped bass.”

Schultz called the predation issue “size-dependent,” explaining that the stripers most likely to eat river herring are at about the 28-inch legal minimum for a keeper. However, smaller “schoolies” are more than capable of devouring many shad progeny, which are now readily available to them and other predators, such as marine bluefish and indigenous freshwater species. But, again, the fact is that those predators have always been present in the Connecticut, so how much of an impact could they really be having on the current decline.

The answer, based on historical precedent, is probably not much. Seems more like a porous excuse for what sadly may be a doomed program.

Deer Numbers Game

There’s an undercurrent among longtime hunters and trained observers here in Massachusetts’ upper Connecticut Valley that the deer herd is not what it’s cracked up to be. So let’s examine the issue briefly.

If you believe MassWildlife’s deer-management team, the local deer herd has never been better. But talk to witnesses who’ve hunted the same woods or farmers who’ve maintained the same hayfields for decades and you’ll get an entirely different opinion. They’ll tell you without hesitation that there are less, not more, deer in our hills west of the Connecticut River.

So who do you believe?

Myself, I tend to listen to credible souls who have hunted the same woodlots and maintained the same mowings for a generation or two. They’re not counting deer turds in bedding areas, they’re counting animals they’ve seen from their treestands or the seats of their John Deeres, which seems like reliable evidence to me.

Who better to query when assessing the deer population than the men and women out there fertilizing and harvesting their fields. Not only can they tell you what they’re seeing from day to day, they can compare it to what they saw 10 and maybe even 60 years ago, when they were riding on their fathers’ laps. They can tell you how many deer appeared in the fields for the greening of March, and they can assess the fawn situation better than anyone. Why? Because they work the land, know it, live it.

So what do you say to these people when they tell you they’re not seeing the large herds or spring lambs they once saw? Do you tell them they’re misremembering? That deer have changed, no longer feed in rye and alfalfa fields? That the lambs are there, just not visible? Go for it if you want to play the fool. Myself, I listen and take their information to the bank. If they tell me there are less deer on Catamount or Cricket Hill than in 1970, I believe them, regardless of what the bean-counters say. I guess it’s just my way of processing info.

And here’s something else to chew on for a minute, a tough piece of gristle. Think about places in this state where deer densities are highest, places like Deer Management Zone 7, or southeastern Massachusetts, where multiple antlerless permits are sold like lottery tickets. There, many does are being harvested annually and the deer herds are out of control. Here in the upper valley, where permits have been scarce during the 21st century, we appear to be experiencing little or no herd growth. How does that happen? Go figure.

So here I sit, perplexed, wondering if it’s my eyes or the experts who are deceiving me. It just makes sense to me that if the deer population in my neighborhood is expanding, then I’ll be seeing 10 deer this March where I was seeing eight last year and six the year before. But that’s not what I’m seeing. In fact it seems to be going in the opposite direction. We’ll see in a couple of months.

I’m not casting rocks, just being honest. But the experts don’t want to hear it.

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