No Escape

The iron bridge connecting Springfield, Vt., and Charlestown, N.H., is straight and narrow, similar indeed to the live-free-or-die creed of rugged individualism and no taxes on the Granite State side.

So, no, I can’t say it’s a bit surprising that this contemporary, libertarian mind-set squares nicely with that of the hardy Massachusetts Bay Colony pioneers who founded Charlestown in the early 1740s with construction of The Fort at No. 4 on the east bank of the Connecticut River as a garrisoned northern outpost protecting isolated settlements in the lower valley.

It was that fort across from the Black River outflow on the Connecticut’s west bank — the mouth of which is a doorway to the ancient natural corridor slicing through the Green Mountains to the Hudson Valley — that indirectly drew my Sanderson ancestors to Whately, and sparked my interest in the historic site. Those two factors pulled me to the reconstructed fort’s annual French & Indian War re-enactment weekend Saturday with my wife and grandsons. It’s never too early to plant seeds of family discovery in a child: my mission.

The Connecticut was swollen, the framing landscape a vibrant green after soaking rains, and we had a blast, all of us, combined or solo, making our rounds about the festive fortress. We meandered through my seventh-great-grandfather Capt. Isaac Parker’s northeast corner home with a cannon in the bedroom, conversed with folks in the bordering encampments, and haggled with an array of interesting bohemian sutlers stationed along the outer palisade perimeter. I later overheard and concurred with my wife’s description of the trip as a home run, especially for little Arie, soon to be 4. The kid was all eyes and full of questions, racing around, enjoying the liberty to do so, learning much, some of it not from his grandfather. It must have seemed like a fanciful dream to the boy, a far cry from the typical, stifling, law-and-order classroom I’m most familiar with, have always objected to. There’s just something liberating about soldiers and settlers, sutlers and Indians and loud, smoky, 18th century battle re-enactments. Try it sometime if you doubt me. You won’t be disappointed.

One campsite that immediately caught Arie’s attention sat outside the fort’s southern gate. Near a sign identifying the small group as Col. Ebenezer Hinsdale’s Garrison, a small pile of round logs burned hot in an open fire. Some two feet above the flames, two whole chickens dangled from wet strings tied to the horizontal bar topping a six-foot-tall, four-legged metal cooking frame. The chickens, a moist, delicious, golden brown, were dripping into the fire, each greasy drop igniting tall, hissing flames that produced a most savory scent. I wanted to talk to the folks there because Col. Hinsdale, Fort Dummer’s chaplain, was from Deerfield and, even better, the older brother of Samuel Hinsdale, an early Greenfield settler who started the historic Meadows tavern I call home. So the site was rich in personal history I believed Arie could get his head around.

I approached the man tending the chickens and immediately initiated one of those spirited conversations I so enjoy inciting.

“I suppose you know Ole Ebenezer was a Haaavaaad man,” I blurted out with faux Ivy formality. “What you may not know, however, is that he was intemperate, possibly the result of being born in captivity and living with the humiliation of community uncertainty about the identity of his father. I suppose his intemperance was a reason they shipped him out of Deerfield to a hinterlands fort out of public view.”

The warm-eyed man flashed a wry grin and quipped, “Yup, I’ve heard that. They say he liked to hit the bottle.”

Little Arie was listening, and clueless.

“What’s ‘intemper,’ Grampy?”

“Drinking too much.”

“Oh.”

I don’t think he grasped it. I hope not. He’ll find out soon enough. Saturday wasn’t the day. Too young. The jesting had gone far enough. But then, as so often seems to happen in this wayward world of mine, not 75 feet away, just around the southeastern corner, lo and behold, a saucy sutler manning the “Geronimo Trading Company” tent, right up my alley, named after the rebel of all Indian rebels, the proudest and most defiant of all Apache warriors. While fellow tribesman Cochise tried to get along, Geronimo was determined to rid his Southwestern homeland of greedy, Caucasian invaders. Plus, the horse-trader who owned the company, one Mark Humpal, a barter-economy devotee, well, he too was right up my alley and soon was digging into a hidden location at the back of his tent for a clear canning jar filled with a most powerful peach moonshine taken in trade somewhere along the trail. How do I find these folks, anyway? I seem to have a knack for it. Must have picked it up in a stupor from the red Woodstock mud and clung to it evermore.

Anyway, this fella Humpal was quite a character from the nearby hills of Cornish, NH, and he drew quite a crowd, obviously a regular at such events, a throwback, to boot. Back in the days of Fort No. 4 and Rogers Rangers, colonial authorities frowned upon such traders because they were too friendly with the Indians and, for a price, willing to supply them with guns and liquor, a deadly combination that often resulted in the most hideous carnage. That isn’t to say the woodsmen they fought against were any better. Many of the frontiersmen went into battle drunk, too, which only complicated matters further. But don’t tell anyone. Conventional wisdom tells you buckskinned militia and cavalry soldiers alike were valiant heroes, and that those who besmirch their reputations today are “revisionist historians,” a pejorative description indeed. Not me. I believe in revisionist history, the mission of which is clearing the dense, manipulative fog borne of “official” government reports.

This too I will someday teach my grandsons, and one path will return straight through The Fort at No. 4, where ancestors learned the Indian way, respected it, used Native battle techniques to defeat a superior British oppressor and, later as disgruntled anti-Federalists, had a way of staying two steps ahead of the government on a western exodus known as manifest destiny, which ended late in the 19th century.

Today, there’s nowhere to run. We’re trapped like rats and forced down conformity’s funnel.

Blasphemous Riverside Ramble

Monday, the morning after, gray and muggy following hard overnight rains. Heavy wet pods topping tall orchard-grass stems droop low, seeds shedding onto my shoe-tops, collecting on the shaft of my tiger-striped chestnut crook cane. My feet are wet, getting wetter with each step as a hidden yet discernible sun fights to penetrate deep cloud cover I sense will vaporize to a warm, powdery, midday blue.

The dogs are drenched and covered with tiny light-green seeds as they bounce joyfully through tall, dense cover they were born for, lingering scents clinging to the sodden turf, even more enticing for gun dogs bred for the sporting chase. God, how I wish I could still bounce and dart and leap and sprint like them. Then again, back when I could, I was clueless. So I guess I’m now better off, lame but sentient, aware of what life’s about, who I am and where I fit into this place called Happy Valley.

The dogs break through the tall hayfield into a scalped rye field burnt a shredded-wheat tan. A flock of maybe 20 turkey vultures is standing right there, 100 yards ahead, enjoying a ripe carrion breakfast, the smell of which had first drawn the dogs a couple days earlier. In such fields, Lily and Chubby tend to chow down a little but prefer dropping onto their backs and rolling in the stench with forbidden carnal glee, eventually returning with the most unpleasant odor and streaks of slimy, stinky flesh smeared like grease deep into their necks and ears. I always get a passing downwind whiff here and there along our walk, but the rancid odor of that violent mechanized carnage is most intense after I’ve crated the pets, closed the black fiberglass cap, driven a short distance home and opened the tailgate to a hot flatulent release that could gag and bring tears to the eyes of a weak-stomached man, which I am not. I typically remedy the problem with a hardy, green, braided lasso leash and the nozzled front-yard hose, which never takes long but is inconvenient.

Chubby spotted the flock first. He froze momentarily, silently proclaimed, “Oh boy!”, and sprinted at the birds, quickly scattered every last one into an airborne wheel of circling scavengers waiting for our rude intrusion to pass so they could touch down for another round of savory breakfast buffet. “Be my guest,” I quipped under my breath. “The sooner that decomposing slop vanishes from the field, the better.”

The prelude behind us, we dropped into Sunken Meadow, where, as so often happens, I quickly spun off into captivating introspection that started humming like a tuning fork wedged deep between my ears, swollen Green River’s rattle elevated from purl to growl. Yes, that again, my cranial wheels awhirl. Schoolmarms used to call it daydreaming when a warm April breeze or ray of bright sunlight pierced a stifling classroom’s window to pull young inquisitive minds off task and into liberating fancy. Not me. Such metaphysical adventures can be creative indeed, even productive, maybe therapeutic, and likely far more interesting than the subject scratched on the blackboard or the droning instructor repeating a lesson delivered many times before. Like most contemplations, the one at Sunken Meadow was ignited by the senses, a pleasing scent in heavy air, sweetest of sweet, so alluring, even seductive, a harbinger of summer — the fragrant white wild rose. I knew that soon the uplifting scent will fill the meadow like a scent bomb, signaling: the arrival of swooping field swallows and flittering, scolding bobolinks; the migration of turtles seeking sandy riverside soil in which to deposit eggs; the subtle scent of native strawberries bleeding a salubrious red tint into morning cereal’s almond milk or maple-sweetened oatmeal. Yes, there it was, the first welcome whiff of the wild white rose, a scourge to those managing meadows, but not to me. It walloped me at the far corner of a small riverside woodlot leading to a secluded swimming hole graced by a tall, solitary apple-tree sentry. God, I can only imagine what that tree which also blossoms white has witnessed over the years at such a a peaceful, secluded spot along by the water’s edge. To me, no church mouse, it’s a comforting thought related to human frailties.

The powerful yet delicate scent of those tiny riverside roses filled my nostrils and immediately for some reason got me thinking back to the charming home concert I had attended the previous afternoon. With work looming, I knew it would be tight but found my way to that little slice of Franklin County paradise high atop a majestic Colrain hill. Owned for generations by the Stowe family, Bill Cole now owns it and is building an eco-village called Katywil, which is, from the best I can tell, an upscale, new-age version of the small cooperative communities encouraged by Ivy League outcast Scott Nearing, that radical Wharton School professor and “Good Life” advocate who had the audacity to take a public stance against World War I. The man defended himself and miraculously kept himself out of prison back in the Palmer-Raid days, then  withdrew forever from conventional society.

If Cole is following Nearing’s path, I’m totally cool with it. I believe in “localism,” local economy and finding a way to live “off the grid” even though that lifestyle-change has probably passed me by; too independent at this point, I think. But who knows? I met Cole briefly before the concert overlooking Catamount and may even seek him out again someday. Sunday he was on my periphery. I was at his home to get a little taste of singer-songwriter Erica Wheeler’s music and leave it at that. I do hope it wasn’t rude to leave before the last chord was struck. But what can I say? Work beckoned from the distant shire town mired in dysfunction. No choice.

What immediately attracted me to this green, hillside Sunday service was the Pioneer Valley Institute’s email notice a month or two back. Titled “Sense of Place,” it immediately piqued my curiosity, pulled me in like a Venus fly-trap. I flagged the message. Sense of place is important to me. I live it, do believe it to be my strongest sense, that proverbial sixth one. As the other five fade with age, my sense of place only sharpens, strengthens and deepens, hardens as bedrock. So, yes, I think I hold a profound understanding of the concept. In fact, I’d take it a step further and admit I worship it, an airborne inhalant that inflates my consciousness with each breath. I feel it wherever I am, be it reading a book on the warm flagstone terrace, engaged in marketplace chatter, pecking away at a keyboard here or at work, challenging an arogant authority figure who deserves no respect, walking Sunken Meadow’s perimeter, swimming the Picomegan, chasing the dogs through a thorny, mucky alder swamp, following a ridge-top stonewall through regal shagbark hickories, or strolling the isles of ancient, lichen-layered graveyards soaked with family DNA.

I suppose a man can live in many places and have a sense of them all. Not me. This is my place. That’s why I’m here, why I came back, will die here. Where else can I walk in the woods, any woods, sit on a stonewall, any stonewall, swim in a river or lake, any river or lake, breathe the air, thick or thin, high or low, and know it contains my DNA? Even there at that bucolic Sunday site visited, it was comforting to know that if I researched it I’d surely find Colrain ancestors who once walked that property and left indelible stains which still live in the budding trees, the greening pastures, the springs trickling from stern black ledge. I wonder what the Indians think? They were here before us and must feel a smilar, even deeper, attachment to place. I think people are born with place but must discover it within. Lucky ones are successful. Fools and unfortunates pass it undetected.

It’s gratifying to be capable of attending a short event in a strange place, looking around, listening, speaking to a few people and departing with enough information absorbed to continue processing it internally for days. That pondering was still there when I passed the wild rose bush at the river’s edge, and it reappeared later, carrying me back to younger, wilder days. I vividly, even fondly, recall my road daze, touring the country lost in an intoxicated fog while fund-raising for cops in faraway spots like Colorado, Delaware, Indiana, Illinois, Ohio and, worst of all, “Joysie,” all places where I didn’t belong or want to stay. I felt like a foreigner. Even swimming in that gorgeous northern-Illinois lake named Wauconda, 60 or 70 miles south of my mom’s natal Wauwatosa, Wis., I could not, no matter how hard I tried, feel like I belonged or had anything in common with those folks in the land of fascist Joe McCarthy and his Red-Scare shame. I guess it’s all about perception, but that was mine and I returned home, to the place of my ancestors, and have remained without regret, constantly exploring new concepts to fine-tune understanding.

I pray I live long enough to instill in my grandsons this passion for place. They may not know it but it’s their place, too, which I hope to teach them. I think I can connect the dots if they listen.

In closing, I must say it’s difficult to understand those who seem bemused when I claim to be spiritual, not religious. My religion is a sense of place, the chapel an open, mature oak grove bordering a ridge-top shagbark alter overlooking a bloated aquifer shimmering through skeletal forest in bright noontime sun. There’s no golden glitter, no incense, no leaf, vine and rosette-carved walnut pulpit from which to brainwash a bulging congregation of crown-of-thorn cookies punched out of flattened, ghostly dough by a portly prophet.

I guess some will call me blasphemous.

Be my guest.

Bull Head Pond Conclusions

I’ve been tempted lately to jump back into the anadromous fish fray, for which local gadfly Karl Meyer has so capably taken the baton and sprinted off toward a distant, cluttered finish line. But first things first — specifically closure on the location of Greenfield’s Bull Head Pond, which I know much more about since last addressing it here a month or so back.

Since then, it’s been a phone call here, email there, questions, reading, personal observation and visits, conversations, interpretations, pensive pondering, evaluation and re-evaluation, all of it critical to discovery and a conclusion, which I have.

“How’d you get onto this subject, anyway,” wry-grinned key source Peter Conway during his Tuesday-night Recorder visit, Dave Allen’s multi-bookmarked “Historic Greenfield Maps” booklet in hand. The third in a four-generation string of family ownership on the hidden “downtown” site where the original Bull Head Pond rests, Conway was the strongest thread stitching it all together for me. In fact, I think he became my equal for enthusiasm.

Oh yes, there were others, many others who played important roles, but Conway had personal reasons for exploration, just as I expected when I first focused on his hideaway farm at the base of a steep hill descending from Main Street, past one “Jungle” and into another, t’other side the Green River from River Street.

First, let me remind you that I quite innocently happened upon this topic of a long-forgotten pond and Greenfield’s last Indian, whose inconspicuous wigwam was said to have stood near it, probably early to mid 18th century, “next to a fine spring.” This whole search and recovery mission just sprang up by accident as I picked my way through home bookshelves searching for descriptions of local Indian graves, especially surrounding Turners Falls’ dam, east of which stands the infamous Mackin site still in the never-ending Walmart-dispute’s crosshairs. I was at the time confused about ancient burials I had for years read about. Most descriptions I recalled situated interred bodies sitting upright to greet sunrise at the base of east-facing hills. Having read of several burials which fit that mold in various Pioneer Valley town histories, I accepted it as the preferred method for regional indigenous burials. But that ingrained perception changed dramatically after accepting an invitation to UMass/Amherst for an Anthropology Department showing of “Great Falls: Discovery, Destruction and Preservation in a Massachusetts Town.” There, in an untidy Bartlett Hall-basement classroom, eloquent Narragansett Tribal spokesman Doug Harris introduced the film and afterward answered questions that helped spawn more in me. Most confusing was his description of Eastern Algonkian burials oriented toward the setting southwestern sun, facing the happy hunting grounds of Cautantowwit’s House.

Determined to clear my confusion, I purchased and read William S. Simmons’ scholarly 1970 book “Cautantowwit’s House: An Indian Burial Ground of the Island on Conanicut in Narragansett Bay,” which chronicles the archaeological excavation led there by the esteemed anthropologist in the Sixties. With that information digested, I started reviewing indexes of local town histories searching for mention of burials with a southwestern orientation. I found none and was later told by a Lenape Indian and former Friends of Wissatinnewag president that most of the Mackin-site burials face east, overlooking the sacred Connecticut River elbow called Peskeomskut and the morning sun. Then, while flipping pages for the listed “Indian Skeletons” in Lucy Cutler Kellogg’s “History of Greenfield 1900-1929” I discovered a short entry titled “The Last Indian,” read it, and it immediately captured my fancy. The chase was on.

To briefly summarize what has been previously written here in three installments, Kellogg claimed that during a 1914 Women’s Club presentation by famed Greenfield children’s author Mary Prudence Wells Smith — known for her popular “Boy Captive,” “Young Puritans” and “Jolly Good Times” historical novels — she “related many anecdotes of the Indian times told her by her father, and which were related to him in his boyhood by Asa Childs, an old Indian fighter of Deerfield. Among other things brought out was that the last Indian in Greenfield lived in a wigwam in the west part of the meadows on the edge of Bull Head Pond and near a fine spring.”

That tidbit to me implied that the pond cited sat in the Lower Meadows somewhere out by Greenfield Community College, and, being myself an Upper Meadows resident since 1997, I knew precisely who to query. Well, when my captive-audience source phoned his father to ask if he had heard of Bull Head Pond, his dad answered yes, it sat along the southwest corner of their farm, right about where I figured. When I published that discovery and invited reader feedback in an effort to substantiate the location for posterity, well, let’s just say it opened a can of worms. Yes, my trusted source was quickly challenged by none other than his older brother, then, lo, his 86-year-old mother, not to mention several 60- and 70-somethings who grew up in Greenfield and identified a Bull Head Pond at the corner of Woodard Road and Colrain Street, roughly where Davenport Trucking today stands. They all remembered Davenport filling it in with gravel some 50 years ago for the truck yard.

But it doesn’t stop there. No. In fact, we’re just getting started. Octogenarian Bill Allen — a former selectman and, as retired county engineer, perhaps the authority on local roads — decided to throw in his two cents worth. He phoned me at home to inform me that Woodard Road was a very early county road leading from Colrain Street to Wisdom, Shelburne and beyond. He wasn’t sure when it had been designated a (then-Hampshire) county road but was certain it occurred in the 18th century, perhaps even before the Revolution. More new perspective added to old, always helpful to historical investigation. Before Allen’s call, I had known that Colrain Street and the Green River crossing at Smead’s Bridge (Davenport’s) were early, and that the road itself was likely an old Indian trail leading from the downtown plateau to the fertile meadows and beyond. I had thus speculated in print that in my mind it was an unlikely place for a solitary Indian to hide out. But sandwiched between the Green River and the junction of two busy roads? Uh-uh. That made no sense at all to me, seemed more unlikely than ever, despite credible testimony that the pond there in the mid 20th century was called Bull Head by those who fished and skated it.

At that point, I had totally accepted that the pond identified by those sources as Bull Head had indeed been known by that name in the day. But, still, I was not so confident it was the same pond known by that name two and more centuries earlier, and I hinted skepticism in print. Then came a breakthrough tip by late-night weekend email from a Bernardston woman who, curiosity piqued, had embarked on her own Bull-Head-Pond  research. It just so happened that one of her Internet keyword searches dropped her straight into the Google Books edition of David “Willard’s History of Greenfield,” the town’s earliest published history (1838). Near the end of the book she found a biography of William Coleman, a prosperous transplant lawyer who built the historic McCarthy Funeral Home off Bank Row before departing for New York around 1800. The location of his stately new Asher Benjamin home made Coleman the downtown neighbor of Willard (1790-1855), who lived west of the town common. So Willard knew Coleman’s promontory point well and penned a description of the pastoral western prospect from Coleman’s backyard, which reads: “The very fertile and beautiful meadow west of these buildings was, within memory, covered with many lofty walnuts sprinkled over the soil like an orchard, excepting the western part that was covered with alders, among which and near the margin of Bull Head Pond, where is a fine spring of water, once stood the hut or wigwam of a solitary Indian.”

Aha! I rose from my chair and went straight to the bookcase for Willard, reading the Coleman bio, rereading the short segment about the solitary Indian and immediately focusing on Power Court and Power Square off Mill Street. That’s when I thought of contacting Conway, if needed. But first I went through my Dave Allen Maps CD and found little on my maiden journey; then, early the next week on my way to work, pulled into Mowry & Schmidt to see if there were any ponds there. Sure enough, I found one along the western border of the parking lot. Intrigued, I drove around to the top of Bank Row and pulled through McCarthy’s driveway to orient myself with Willard’s view. Once at work, I hunted down Conway’s phone number, called him and got the wheels spinning in a new direction. Willard could not, in my opinion, have been talking about the Bull Head Pond of 20th century fame in the written picture he paints. The Greenfield native would have known the view well, and the scene he sketched just doesn’t fit the Bull-Head-Pond site near Davenport’s. His description implies that the pond, or at least the alder swamp fronting it, was visible as he looked over the open meadow (later the first fairgrounds) that is now a congested Power Square and Power Court. So that would place the site between Mowry & Schmidt and the railroad trestle behind Dunkin Donuts. The Colrain Street Bull Head Pond identified by several living sources is around a sweeping bend and far out of view. Also, that pond would have been on the other side of Green River. Wouldn’t Willard have noted that in his description?

Truthfully, soon as I ruled out the faraway Bull Head site near GCC, my intuition told me that the old pond at Davenport’s was too far away and out of Willard’s Bank-Row world. That’s why I took that first field trip to Mowry & Schmidt, discovered the pond and spoke to Conway about his son’s property under Main Street on dead-end Conway Drive. When I spoke to him on the phone that night from work, I was rushing on deadline, scribbling illegible notes, and ultimately made a key mistake when writing my column the next day. Conway had told me that the small pond with the island I spotted just west of Power Court was known as The Donut, and that there was another, not far west of it, called Horse Shoe Pond. I mistakenly remembered him telling me they were both man-made sometime around 1900. The truth is that Horse Shoe Pond, called “Old Channel” on the earliest map I could find naming it, was not man-made. No, it’s an old oxbow that was long ago separated from the main Green River stem and still holds water, though much less than years ago. Conway remembers Horse Shoe as bigger, deeper and better defined as a kid when he fondly recalls catching — his hands spread apart a foot or better — fat bullheads. He also remembers a marshy spring hole between the Horse Shoe arch and the base of the steep escarpment, where a thin stream bed ran out of it to the river. He says the marsh and stream bed are still discernible but have been filled in by erosion triggered by railroad vibration over the years.

“I think you’ve put the Bull Head Pond mystery to rest,” predicted Conway. “Horse Shoe pond was once called Bull Head. There is no question in my mind.”

I agree. In fact, I do believe the names Bull Head Pond and Old Channel appear in the earliest deeds related to that fertile, secluded hollow between Power Court and the railroad trestle. I tried to research it and cried uncle after two unsuccessful visits totaling up to three hours at the Franklin County Registry of Deeds. There were just too many transactions and legal maneuverings to plow through, starting with an insolvent Coombs estate that got tangled up and remained that way from just after the Civil War until the dawning of the 20th century, when Conway’s grandfather purchased it. I am thoroughly convinced that due diligence by a capable researcher will bear me out.

In closing, I must say I love the symbolism of that last Indian choosing to live buried deep in the lowest fringe of downtown Greenfield along a sparkling escarpment spring passing an ancient, detached piece of Green River bed that became a pond where fat, tasty bullhead lurked. It all just fits snug as a skullcap.

Fishing For Forgiveness

That mournful flute was entrancing, spooky.

Its deep, hollow, haunting moans filled the bright, airy, riverside chamber called Great Hall and pierced a private internal sanctuary in me that few can penetrate, entering through a slim wound that oozed grief, gushed guilt. The handsome wooden instrument still resonated the next morning, like a spiritual echo you’d feel standing deep and very small on a vast canyon’s floor, the reverberations circling, deflecting from one jagged outcropping to another, refusing to fade, only intensifying.

With Great Falls Discovery Center’s southern doorway wide open to gray Powertown skies, that doleful, forlorn flute wailed from the darkest depths of tall, pony-tailed Barry Higgins’ soul and hovered over an infamous elbow of New England’s largest river at a place named for a war criminal. I listened, wept internally and stared outside, wondering what nesting birds, flying insects, crawling worms, migrating fish and human passersby, maybe even the spirit of Greenfield’s last Indian at Bull Head Pond thought when those sad notes found them. Who knows? Maybe they even reached the ghosts of Captains Turner and Holyoke — colonial heroes to some, butchers to others — driving out hot guilty tears, perhaps pleas for forgiveness.

I’m not sure what it was, but that flute touched me deeply and clung. The next day, taking my daily morning walk with the dogs through a tranquil place, I could still hear it, couldn’t shake it, didn’t want to. When I returned home, midday, sticky, the sweet scent of lilacs strong, grass green as green can be, I walked through the front parlor, where an overwhelming smell of fireplaces greeted me; one of those days, Memorial Day approaching, shad migrating up the Connecticut River in annual spring spawning runs dating back before the Mayflower.

I sometimes purge random thoughts entertained on my solitary morning walks with the dogs. Not today. The previous day’s Nolumbeka Project event still fresh in my memory with a dreaded deadline looming, my cranial wheels were spinning freely, wandering off course and probing deep as I climbed that last hill up a double-rutted earthen farm road leading to my truck, it parked a couple hundred yards away behind an old farmer friend’s last greenhouse. As I skirted the familiar galvanized gate through a thin sumac strip overlooking the Green River atop the short, gentle climb to the upper level, I stopped for a moment to search as I often do for fish, saw none and continued on. For some strange reason, that birds-eye view of the river known to Natives as Picomegan brought me back to the days when I’d meet old friend “Indian Al” Niemiec for shad-fishing adventures below South Hadley Falls, one of many prehistoric Connecticut River fishing places. Niemiec, among the best fishermen I ever met, made his living tying flies and answering to no one. If memory serves me, his Chicopee business was first named Indian Nymphs; then he caught the dangerous political-correctness virus and renamed it Native American Nymphs and Flies. I guess he didn’t want to, um, no pun intended, ruffle feathers.

Although I haven’t spoken to Niemiec for more than 20 years, he’s still with me every day, right there with those three wooden-framed, glass-covered shadow boxes displaying his colorful hackle creations individually labeled by a calligrapher. Those flies are not lonely reminders of fishing days past around my home. If you did a little digging, opening a drawer here, a closet there, looking through nooks and crannies, high and low, damp and dry, you’d be apt to find much more, all of it fair game for my grandsons someday. I’m sure they’ll soon find the equipment and apparel scattered about — rods here, vest there, large, plastic Plano tackle box containing hooks and swivels and lures and spools of line and piles of my own willow-leaf lures. There’s plenty more to be found elsewhere, stuff like willow creels, zipper-cased fly reels, fly boxes, spinning rods of graphite, fly rods of the same material and others of split bamboo, the Ferrari of fishing rods, many of them made by local artisans. I hope the kids will be curious and want to learn how to use all of it, plus study fish and their habits, what they eat, how to present bait and catch them. If so, I’ll help. If not, so be it. We’ll just explore something else.

People who know me best have often asked how a man who enjoyed fishing so can just pull the plug. When I respond philosophically with an answer like, “How many trout must a man catch to prove he’s a fisherman?” they just look bemused — like, “Huh?” But that’s where I’m at with fishing. When it stopped being a challenge, I moved onto something else, maybe studying fish habitat and history, which led to questioning the salmon-restoration project’s feasibility based on what I’d read. That research led to a familiar old topic that’s fascinated me since a boy skating my grandfather’s snow shovel up and down Bloody Brook like a plow to clear paths for me and my South Deerfield pals, the same fellas who in summer months fished for suckers hugging the mucky stream bed of the pool below a concrete wall bordering Kelleher’s yard, the stately home fronted by Bloody Brook Monument. We also fished by the Pleasant Street bridge, between Sadoski’s and the old plastic shop, now Cowan’s Auto Supply, years earlier my Arms relatives’ pocketbook factory. Those were the good old days when South Deerfield was a two-cop town. The officers, both proud World War II vets, were a different breed of law-and-order cat than today’s, fathers of friends and classmates, their goal to let kids to be kids, mischief and all, no court intervention unless absolutely necessary. My oh my how times have changed. Some say for the better. Not me. But let us not digress. Back to Bloody Brook.

Once we perfected catching suckers and hornpout on nightcrawlers and worms dug from rich, black backyard loam out by the chicken coop, we learned to treble-hook big stubborn fish that refused to bite. When we got bored with that game, we moved to trout-fishing, starting on the Mill River between Pekarski’s and Warchol’s, when that part of town felt so much closer before the Interstate 91 barrier. As we matured and could be trusted (yeah right!) farther away, our mothers would drop us off at West Brook in Whately and pick us up a mile or two downstream hours later, our creels bulging with brookies, their gills exposed, necks broken to spare them slow painful suffocation. Little did I know then what I have since learned about the streamside ruins that were once the property of my family, tanners who made shoes and buckskins of James Fennimore Cooper fame from the cured hides of animals killed for meat. Had I focused strictly on fishing all these years, well, what a shame that would have been. I’d probably still be passing those ancient mill foundations without understanding why they’re there or who ran them.

The same could be said of American shad, migratory fish that served as the impetus for the annual spring pilgrimage of Northeastern indigenous tribes traveling from all points of the compass to Peskeomskut, said to be a sacred place of high spirit, not to mention the greatest of all New England waterfalls. I learned to catch these anadromous fish swimming upstream on the most carnal of missions by the prevailing method of spinning tackle and shad darts. We gradually made the transition to fly rods and colorful flies, then, better still, yet further from purist, moved to homemade willow-leafs with sink-tip line and bead-chain trolling sinkers, a cumbersome method that outproduced all others. Yes, Indian Al and I were soon catching shad hand over fist in channels along the east bank of Holyoke’s tailrace, attracting many curiosity-seekers in fishing boats. They’d cozy up close, watch in admiration and ask how we were catching so many. Then, once the game was mastered, we just sort of moved on, Al switching to smallmouth bass and me, well, I guess I just decided to study the fish, the habitat and history of the ancient tribes who migrated with them to the river before Christian governments annihilated them and drove survivors fleeing in mass exodus, seeking shelter from the storm.

I suppose I could have just buried these private thoughts borne of that solitary trek to the gate overlooking the Green River, but for some reason I couldn’t. In fact, I even seized and enhanced the introspective moment by pulling out an old CD I hadn’t played for many years. It was a Vanguard disc by late finger-pickin’ Delta blues legend Mississippi John Hurt. I can’t recall how I discovered old Mississippi John, but it was probably from listening to Doc Watson. Does it really matter? All I can say is that I found Hurt the same way I always find stuff, and it ain’t by pushing a broom or bossing people around in Walmart isles. No, this temporary state of heightened consciousness was opened by that mournful Sunday flute singing in the gloomy mist of Turners Falls’ dam. I was there by invitation to recognize the 337th anniversary of the infamous Falls Fight. History books call it the turning point of King Philip’s War, and there’s no denying it was that. But what those schoolbooks don’t tell you is that it and similar slaughters of unsuspecting indigenous Northeastern tribes set the stage for two blood-soaked centuries of government policy that ended with shameful Pine Ridge and Wounded Knee. It’s called genocide and it started right here in Puritan New England, beginning with the Pequot War (1637), then King Philip’s (1676), both of which put women and children to the sword for the “greater good.”

Native flutist Higgins of Pennacook/Abenaki roots knows the unvarnished truth. The wooden instrument he created sang the funeral song that punctured my soul, opening a wound that released my deepest sorrows for the cruel deeds of ancestors who marched alongside Capt. Turner on that dreadful day. Like many before and after them, those soldiers bought in to a cause and sold out, were perpetrators of cruel, sadistic wartime acts.

How could any man of conscience deny guilt for the behavior of such ancestors? Members of a misguided, racist rabble, some of them undoubtedly harbored deep emotional scars till the day they died tormented.

Called PTSD today, there was no word for it then. I can still feel it, the tortured groans of that wooden flute soothing my solemn, suffering soul.

Strange Bedfellows

A rattler it wasn’t, but still, how would like to find one in your lingerie drawer?

Yes, it seems dangerous-looking reptiles are lurking in my neighborhood. That’s what I’m chasing this week. Just another interesting little tale that piqued my interest after arriving as an email tip from a friend and neighbor. Why? For one thing because of a recent personal encounter, with what I’m not certain, just up the road. You can’t make it up. How is it that this stuff just seems to find its way to my doorstep? No complaints. Stories like this write themselves.

I’ll start with the email, which arrived Monday afternoon and went like this (names and locations excluded): “Info came my way today that three timber rattlers were taken by Fish & Game personnel recently at (a neighborhood) estate. Workers found them while fixing a foundation around a shed/barn? Did you know? Check it out.”

Hmmmmm? I knew the estate. Pass it daily. But what’s really interesting, probably just a coincidence if you believe in such things, is that historical research on an unrelated subject had led me straight to that old farm recently. Now this.

Intrigued by the spicy rumor, I figured I’d swing through the driveway on the way into work to see if the visit drew or caught the owner outside. No such luck, just a tabby cat on the porch and a happy pappy dog trotting down to greet me, friendly tail wagging. I stopped my truck, opened the door just long enough to pet the dog between the ears, noticed no activity in the house and departed unfulfilled. Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained. I didn’t want to be a supper-time pest, had time to pursue it in the morning. But, just out of curiosity, I from afar scanned the stone foundation of an outbuilding on the way out and found it tidy indeed for stonework of its age. Yes, a likely candidate for recent renovation.

At that point, having noticed the neat, clean facing of that exposed stone foundation, my wheels started spinning to a low hum. Perhaps the rattlesnake rumor was true. Plus I kept mentally traipsing back a few days to that personal encounter with something I never saw but knew for sure was there. Young Springer Spaniel pal Chubby had alerted me to its presence during our daily walk down a familiar game trail at the point of an escarpment that leads down to a narrow marsh flooded by beavers. It was Friday or Saturday, I can’t recall which, hot and sunny, late morning. About a third of the way down the brushy path, getting thicker by the day due to fresh spring growth, Chuby-Chub, maybe 20 feet ahead of me, stopped, froze statuesque — nose elevated, ears perked — and chose to skirt whatever it was he smelled, heard or both by walking a tight little five-foot detour loop to the left. Whatever it was, he wanted no part of it. Me neither. But, curious, I carefully approached the site and used my chestnut crook cane to investigate the ground by pushing small, leafy, infant beech seedlings to the side, Chubby already standing chest-deep, drinking beaver-dam overflow below as foot-free mother Lily trotted down to join him. Although my quick probe  revealed nothing, I was convinced it was a snake. Because animals have a sixth sense for danger, I pay attention. So, when I heard this neighborhood rattlesnake rumor, that’s why it really grabbed a hold of me. Maybe a rattler had persuaded young Chubby to change his path down that natural, constricted earthen ramp.

I’m not ashamed to admit that I was a little skittish upon returning to the site the next few days, walking down through the small marsh between two agricultural plots with my four-legged friends, me crossing the water over a large fallen tree trunk. I don’t believe an observer would have noticed caution in my gait, but let’s just say that minor tangles and sapling slaps across the back of my naked calves startled me a little more than usual, not to mention the sight of thin, dead, fallen limbs dangling in the sumacs. Yes, those dangling particles attracted closer inspection than usual as I snaked (no pun intended) my way through that familiar little wetland strip. Once I poked through the marsh into open Sunken Meadow, it was always clear sailing, no more heebie-jeebies for the remainder of my circuitous riverside ramble back to the truck.

Although I can’t say I’ve have ever considered owning a pet snake, I wouldn’t call myself ophidiophobic. I remember handling garden snakes as a kid before witnessing a friend getting bitten by a big ornery one. That instilled in me a healthy respect for snakes, which still give me the creeps. My youthful fears only intensified as I wandered out and discovered more threatening-looking serpents on my travels up and down the Indian trails scaling the red North Sugarloaf cliffs. It was worse on the way up, when I’d reach for a scrub-oak or an outcropping a ledge to pull myself up only to meet face-to-face with an unfriendly-looking outstretched snake adorned in colorful geometric bands baking in the summer sun. To this day I can’t say what kind of snakes they were, but like Chubby-Chub-Chub, I never pestered them. No, I always did my best to avoid them. Yet I can honestly say that such close encounters never discouraged me from returning to the scene, just taught me to be aware. Never in my recollection did one of those snakes act aggressively toward me, though, which makes sense because I never bothered them. But let’s not digress, back to the present.

When I returned home from a Tuesday walk, wanting to chase the rumor, I immediately called the neighbor who, rumor had it, discovered those rattlesnakes at her historic Greenfield Meadows home. When I told her why I was calling and admitted skepticism, she chuckled and said that, in fact, what I had heard was pretty accurate. Yes, as it turns out, the three snakes were not discovered by contractors working on an outbuilding but instead by the woman herself on April 10 and 11. First, upon walking into her office, she found one critter right out in the open, coiled neatly on a printer shelf. When she and a colleague witnessed the snake rattling its tail, she phoned police and a temporary animal-control officer was dispatched as she waited, snapping off photos with her cell phone. When the public servant arrived on the scene, he observed the four-foot snake and, yup, identified it as a rattlesnake before removing it from the building and releasing it over the bank into the woods, because, you know, rattlesnakes are a protected endangered species.

It gets better. Next day, with the harrowing experience sort of behind her, lo, upon opening a desk drawer in the same office, there lay an identical three-foot snake stretched out among the contents. Convinced she was dealing with yet another rattler, the woman was brave indeed, eventually removing it from the drawer with long-handled pruning shears (I call them loppers) and taking it outside. Concerned that there may be more big, menacing reptiles lurking, she called the contractor who had performed the carriage-house-to-office transition and asked if he’d please investigate further. He arrived on the scene the next day and, sure enough, removed a third snake from a warm place near a pilot light to a gas fireplace, end of story. Well, except that the property owner says she had seen a large snake colored and marked the same as those in her office while doing yard-work last fall. She figures it and others must have hibernated in a stone-foundation pocket and found a way inside upon awaking from their long winter nap.

After recounting the tale and checking for dates in her email messages, the proprietor emailed me two photos she had taken, the first titled “office visitor,” the second “in the drawer.” I promptly forwarded “in the drawer” to Ralph Taylor, MassWildlife’s Connecticut Valley District manager, who viewed it and quickly replied that it was a harmless Eastern milk snake.

“That’s typical milk-snake behavior,” he chortled. “They seem to like people’s homes and are often confused with rattlesnakes because they, and black water snakes, will shake their tails like a rattler when nervous.”

Taylor says his office answers calls from concerned citizens who find milk snakes on cellar rafters of their homes and barns. He said the snakes are docile creatures that eat rats and mice and are thus attracted to cellars, crawl spaces and woodsheds. Taylor said the loamy bottomland location of the Greenfield incidents makes it an unlikely place to find rattlesnakes, but not milk snakes. Which isn’t to suggest there are no Franklin County rattlesnakes. Anyone who’s studied local history dating back to the first two centuries of settlement knows New England Indians tribes used ominous rattlesnake skins ceremoniously and displayed their fangs in jewelry. Accounts of early settlers depict rattlesnakes as quite common dating from the colonial period well into the 19th century, their range extending far north of here, into the Green, White and Adirondack Mountains, and deep across upper New York State. Given the factors of global warming and Northeastern reforestation, rattlesnakes could indeed be on the comeback trail locally. In fact, if you went hunting for them tomorrow, you could find them with little effort. Taylor identified the Holyoke, Mt. Tom and Tekoa ranges as local hot-spot sites, saying the most likely place to find them is on sun-splashed talus slopes composed of stone, ledge and shale. Rattlers also seek out the warm, manmade concrete floors and platforms poured to anchor mountaintop cell towers and windmills. Although humans are likely to survive rattlesnake bites, Taylor said their venom is a protein destroyer that initiates a flesh-eating process and causes permanent damage. Rattlesnakes and copperheads are nothing to fool with.

My guess is that Chubby was skirting a Milk Snake that day and, even though they’re harmless, I can’t say I blame him. In fact, on my way into bed after work Tuesday night, I’ll admit to having an extra little hop in my step upon jumping into bed after midnight. I’m sure that temporary phobia will pass. It’s just that the images and discussion were very fresh and creepy, our homes close and similarly constructed.

Milk snakes may be harmless, but I’d rather not crawl onto a heated mattress pad with one, thank you.

Flower Power

It’s that hopeful time of year when things are happening and, no, I haven’t given up on Bull Head Pond. In fact, I have exciting new discoveries about that forgotten spot, now in a different location, just a stone’s throw from the 20th century pond called Bull Head that I reluctantly accepted as the one last week. But, please, let’s give it a rest. Other seasonal fare on my plate, including salmon mischief.

To start with, my front yard is unusually colorful this week, adorned in various shades of red cast by ornamental trees along the southern perimeter. Rarely do they simultaneously glow like this year. Even the fading yellow forsythia is still hanging in there, perhaps due to lack of rain. Although that was expected to change overnight, the bush as I now see it is still bright yellow, though with a much greener underbody than a week ago. There it sits, like a tabletop bouquet beneath outstretched limbs of a mellow magenta apple and one of the large, deep-red Japanese-maple twins. Three ornamental cherries lined toward the west corner add a soft, seductive pink, while the shedding saucer magnolia of a similar hue way around the eastern side is visible across a panoramic view, just a small splash of delicate red quince blossoms dabbed in between. Spring bloom is always inspiring, cool, comfortable air flowing through the windows front to back, bulkhead wide open to allow damp winter spirits an escape route up the quiet stone stairs, leaving behind devilish remnants to ricochet about and stir introspection like bubbles emerging from a foamy root-beer float disrupted by a kid blowing down a straw.

Although dry thus far, it has been an otherwise textbook spring, the fiddleheads now long gone, replaced by tall ostrich ferns that seem to grow a foot in a few days once the tight clumps of tasty morsels clinging to the ground sprout and leap to the sun. With that savory treat in the rearview, asparagus is in, necessitating many trips back to old stomping grounds dominated by the Sugarloafs, north and south, which always bring cozy karma. Although I no longer live there, it’s not far and’ll always be branded deep into my soul. I could really feel the homey vibes at a Sunday-night farm wedding I attended in an old friend’s tented Hillside Road backyard, bordered on the north by Jackson Road and the headwater marsh from which infamous Bloody Brook springs atop the Long Hill plain known before my day as Turnip Yard.

I don’t want to meander off the rails but why is it that I suspect it’ll be a good year for fruit and berries? I have no fancy degrees in anything related to the subject but thus far it just seems like the kind of spring that will bring bountiful fruit, that’s all. If so, it promises to be a good year for the pesticide-free raspberries and blueberries along my western border. Then again, maybe not. Who knows? A lot can happen between now and then. Hasn’t that been obvious of late, when there seems to be no limit to weather weirdness.

Hopping back to the present, word has it that some fellas are having a tough time of it turkey hunting for boss gobblers that “henned-up” a week before the season. I knew from casual observation that this phenomenon had occurred, because I had on my way to work seen a boisterous longbeard showing off nightly for five or six lovely ladies in “POSTED” corn stubble. My friend tried to kill that gobbler a few mornings last week and departed muttering to himself, and me on the phone, before moving on. His biggest obstacle was restriction from the forbidden abutting property, where the birds are roosting and gallivanting daily. He was close enough to get old Tom-Tom all jacked up — the big bird gobbling his fool head off and moving in my buddy’s direction before digging his long, stubborn spurs in and “hanging up” along a bushy fence row. From there, the big bird demanded that my buddy come to him, no matter how love-sick his plaintive yelps sounded. Oh well, they say patience is a virtue. If my pal sticks in there and doesn’t get frustrated or impulsive, he may yet catch that big boss tom at a weak moment fueled by hormonal imbalance. I’d say the odds are against him, though, given the territorial disadvantage facing him. The dynamic is simple to understand. Suppose you were playing the role of gluttonous Arabian sheikh settled into a comfortable honeymoon suite for the weekend with a young, attractive harem of five serving oh-so faithfully. Would you, savoring this amorous arrangement, answer an old girlfriend’s telephone call, a mistress’s rap on the door? My friend’s guttural chuckle suggested the answer.

Which reminds me: another friend wanted me to know that his father told him to tell “Old Bull Head” that his shad bush is blooming. I knew, had actually seen the flowers in my travels. But I didn’t need that harbinger to announce the arrival of migratory shad and salmon. Daily email reports have kept me informed. Through Tuesday, the daily anadromous-fish report I receive said 79,000 shad and 12 salmon had passed Holyoke, where the water temperature read 61.7 Fahrenheit, edging on optimal.

With the spawning runs building to a peak, go figure, it leads me straight into a risqué subject some may find alluring. You’ve probably heard or read by now that the aggressive, half-century, federal and state Connecticut River Atlantic Salmon-Restoration Program came to an abrupt halt last year. Yes sir, it seems that the program’s most devoted true-believers could no longer justify the expense during hard times fueled by unfunded wars and diabolical Wall Street schemes, so they just up and pulled the freakin’ plug. That doesn’t mean salmon will immediately stop migrating. Not yet, anyway. Now, following decades of coordinated efforts to capture salmon and medicate them to prime health with chemicals before overseeing controlled spawning (artificial mixing of milt and eggs) and ubiquitous stocking of hatchery-reared progeny in tributaries up and down the valley, fisheries officials must sit back and see what transpires.

As expected, the salmon run hasn’t just halted because crews are no longer traveling back and forth to fish passageways to transport captured returnees to Sunderland’s Cronin Salmon Station. To the contrary, salmon are indeed still migrating upriver, and 12 thus far are swimming above Holyoke. Think about that for a minute. Wouldn’t it be interesting if these aristocratic fish of the North Atlantic keep coming for years to come and, in fact, ultimately start returning in greater numbers than when well-meaning scientists insisted upon human intervention and micro-management — capturing, carting, medicating and “artificially” spawning wild fish in a controlled Christian manner that may not have been wise. That’s not to suggest that the current “au-naturel” method will turn out to be a better route to the original restoration goal of creating a viable sport fishery. All I’m saying is that I would laugh out loud if it turns out that way. And I can’t say I’ve never opined right here, based solely on good old-fashioned common sense, that maybe those fish they were imprisoning would be better off left alone to spawn in natural settings. Yes, I had the audacity to speculate that perhaps wild fish would do better spawning in the Sawmill or South or Bear, the Deerfield or Millers rivers than confined at Cronin Station in boring, sterile, cement tanks, raceways and indoor pools.

It’s true that Atlantic salmon will most likely soon than later stop migrating up our Connecticut River basin now that the funding has vanished, marking the end of an altruistic, half-century experiment that has been fading off into the sunset for decades. Then again, maybe, just maybe, there’ll be a miracle of sorts and the salmon will keep coming, with numbers gradually increasing to an levels approaching what the scientific community desired way back when but could not deliver.

Yes, wouldn’t that development be hilarious indeed, not to mention totally understandable to those who worship freedom and liberty and autonomy in its purest forms, minus the red, white and blue nonsense?

All I can say is that as the preachers and politicians weep, I’ll be laughing hysterically if those taxpayer-funded Connecticut River-strain salmon start running like gangbusters after gaining creative freedom for the most private of matters.

What a hoot that would be, huh? Proving one more time that missionary-style ain’t for everyone.

The Legend Grows

The tulip magnolia is back, and so is that “solitary Indian” camped at the edge of town.

First, the magnolia, though, which literally weathered the storm and is now in full bloom, just around the corner from the umbrella table and chairs we put out front for a change, hidden between the main block and budding mock-orange bushes bordering a terrace of large, flat, fitted, porch-floor stones lugged some 200 years ago by a team of Charlemont oxen. Ah, spring, Life is good.

That beautiful old magnolia is inspiring. Gracing the gabled east side of my home facing Green River Road, that tree really set my wheels spinning this morning. Looking out at it, thinking, I realized the lessons even plants can teach if you listen. Radically “pruned” by Mother Nature during that weird late-October 2011 storm which leveled so many of its kind, I really wasn’t sure how that proud ornamental tree, bruised and battered by wet, heavy snow, would fare. But I thought it would be OK and soothed my wife’s worse fears with a sanguine prognosis. I assured her, though uncertain myself, that magnolias are resilient, it would soon to be back in its full spring splendor.

Then more weirdness paid a visit last spring. There it was, late February, the sapping season under way early, and judging from the temperatures, you would’ve thought it was Memorial Day. Like a narcissistic seductress, the thermometer deceived even the trees into early blossoms. Then frosts did a number on many local fruit orchards. My magnolia wasn’t spared, its partially opened flowers quickly stunned, frozen and rotting to a putrid, sewage-treatment brown before falling prematurely to the ground.

Hmmm? Two disasters in four months? Too much to endure? Unlikely.

I can now report that the magnolia’s just fine, thank you, will in a year or two be bigger, broader, stronger and more beautifully proportioned than ever. It just needs to fill in a bit, another reminder that nature has a way of overcoming hardship, sprouting improvement from devastation, a lesson that can at times be compared even to interpersonal relationships. Once the broken branches and rotten flowers are swept up, carted off and disposed of, fresh air can circulate through the healing limbs, and when the cold, blustery north winds blow, they scatter any remaining ill will asunder to fall upon new victims. The strong survive, the weak perish. And here I sit, my sunny magnolia beaming at approaching travelers; a survivor, no fear, its lusty pink flowers alluring indeed, attracting who knows, or cares, what.

But enough of whatever Far Eastern or Native American “ism” it is that’s infiltrated my space, transported by a gentle breeze flowing through the south window, stirring me into introspective diversion on this stimulating morning in the most optimistic of seasons. Time to revisit the enduring topic of Greenfield’s last Indian, said to have lived centuries ago in a wigwam by Bull Head Pond, the location of which I believe I now know. I am no longer stuck on that old dried-up pond along the western edge of the Lower Meadows, the one pinpointed by esteemed Greenfield historian Mary P. Wells Smith. No, I think my suspicions were wrong. I believe Bull Head Pond was indeed that shallow, muddy body of water that sat between the Green River’s west bank and the intersection of Woodard Road and Colrain Street, roughly at the site of today’s Davenport Trucking.

Yes, I could be wrong. Remember, I’m not a Greenfield guy, even though I was born here and did spend my first year in that stuffy, little, upstairs, Elm Street apartment not far from the Bull Head itself. Yeah, that’s right, not far from old Bull Head. Hey, my young mother — a Wauwatosa, Wis., transplant who graduated from Greenfield High before going away to college — may have even wheeled me right past that shallow mud hole on pleasant spring days that spiked fever. It wouldn’t surprise me. If so, I suppose that pond’s imprinted in my consciousness, clinging like a brown bat to the upper right corner of a dark closet in my soul. Maybe that’s what pulled me into this search. That and a basic curiosity that has fueled this bumpy auto-didactic journey called life, one spiced by harmless little mischiefs and narrow escapes along fanciful footpaths carved into the landscape before my Puritan ancestors staked their claims and obliterated indigenous cultures.

Truthfully, I probably should have known enough to avoid this Bull Head Pond adventure. Although it’s true I live in Greenfield and have for 16 years studied my home and its historic neighborhood just up the road from the site of that lost pond, I know I’ll never be from Greenfield. No, I’m anchored in another place not far away, that being the village of South Deerfield by way of Whately and Groton and Boston and Watertown and Hampton, N.H., where my Sanderson progenitor, Boston silversmith Robert of Pine Tree Shilling fame, was an original proprietor. Also listed among the founders on the Watertown Monument, old Bobby boy moved to Boston and became as “proper” a Bostonian as proper could be by appointment to constable, then deacon of the First Church. Then, lo, late in life he took as his third and final wife an educated Quaker lady named Elizabeth Kingsmill, who’s buried next to him in Boston’s Granary Cemetery. That curious Puritan/Quaker marriage is aching for further research and investigation. I find it quite intriguing, maybe even blasphemous to some in his circle, though to me a showy peacock feather in his felt tri-corn. Trust me, I’ll track it down in retirement. It won’t take long. Not once I put my mind to it, find the info in some dark, dusty repository and scour the records. That’s the kind of hunting I prefer these days, gathering another form of sustenance called brain food, harvested by innate curiosity and perseverance.

But back to the Bull Head, with special thanks to three new sources, beginning with old South Deerfield pal Dick Weso, who gave me a ring Friday to clear the air and identify mysterious email source Wrwando as his brother-in-law and childhood friend. Then, after input from Weso, who, like his brother-in-law knew the pond as a Greenfield boy, another source dropped in like a streaking comet from the clear, starlit sky. Checking my email one last time on a pre-midnight whim Saturday, sitting there waiting was a surprise from a Bernardston lady identified only as Leslie in my inbox. Further investigation provided a surname — likely that of her husband but, then again, not necessarily — which could place her ancestors with mine at old Fort No. 4 in Charlestown, N.H., of French & Indian War fame. Next morning, with the impetus of Leslie and Weso’s fresh leads driving me, I pulled out my historic-Greenfield-maps CD and came away disappointed. None of them showed the pond I was looking for. Undaunted, I jumped in the truck to take a spin and study the terrain to get my bearings in vaguely familiar territory. Then, on Tuesday evening, when a first-ever ride down Power Square on the way to work revealed the existence of a previously unknown pond in my world, I reached out to Greenfield native Peter Conway, whose father, Joe, rented a River Street apartment across the river from his home to my late grandmother. I was confident Pete would know about that pond I found and the extended meadows where it sat, which he did.

But hold that thought as we double back briefly to Ms. Leslie’s email. Spurred by my public search for the home of Greenfield’s supposed last Indian, the Bernardston lady had embarked on an Internet search of her own and, sure enough, found a written record that piqued her interest and pulled everything into focus for me. What she discovered was a revealing mention of Bull Head Pond and its “solitary Indian” in David Willard’s “History of Greenfield,” an early source (1838) I happen to own, have read but did not revisit during my recent research.

Duh?

Truthfully, I didn’t go to Willard because I knew the book wasn’t indexed. And even if I had skimmed through the “Contents” pages up front, I would have found no hint of Bull Head Pond or its last Indian. But they are there, both mentioned in Willard’s profile of 18th century Greenfield lawyer William Coleman and the stately downtown mansion-house he built circa 1796. That home, which came to be known as the Hollister House (now McCarthy’s Funeral Home), overlooks Bank Row in the front and, from the rear, looks out west over narrow Green River meadows far below, following River Street. Willard, whose family lived in the neighborhood, knew the view well and described it like this:

“The very fertile and beautiful meadows west of these buildings was, within memory, covered with many lofty walnuts, sprinkled over the soil like an orchard, excepting the western part, which was covered with alders, among which and near the margin of Bull Head Pond, where is a fine spring of water, once stood the hut or wigwam of a solitary Indian.”

That description by Greenfield’s earliest historian told me that Bull Head Pond could not be the one 90-year-old Mary P. Wells Smith had identified for author friend Lucy Cutler Kellogg, who located it in the western part of the Meadows in her “History of Greenfield, 1900-1929.” The pond she was referring to stands adjacent to Greenfield Community College at the base of Greenfield Mountain and is too far away for inclusion in any description of William Coleman’s home lot. So, the home of Greenfield’s last Indian had to be the one closer to town, yes, the same one senior-citizen Greenfield natives like my buddy Weso remember as Bull Head Pond. “We called the pond east of Woodard Road Bull Head and the one on the other side of the road Cow Head,” recalled Weso, who patrolled that part of Greenfield often before moving to South Deerfield in 1970. “Old man Jackson, who had a house on the other side of the river on Colrain Street, always had a shiner bucket in that little spring that runs through there.”

Weso became the fourth credible Greenfield source to identify Bull Head Pond as the one that sat at the intersection of Colrain Street and Woodard Road before Davenport Trucking filled it in. Conway became my fifth source during an informative Tuesday night telephone chat at work. He said he himself never called it Bull Head Pond, but rather Pickerel Pond because that’s what he caught there. “You know how it is with kids and ponds like that,” he quipped. “We all have our own names for little ponds we fish. I called that one Pickerel Pond, but that’s just me. I have no doubt that’s the Bull Head Pond you’re looking for.”

Conway grew up on a 16-acre downtown-Greenfield farm few people probably even realize exists. The house and its outbuildings are tucked on the other side of the railroad trestle at the base of Main Street, across the river from Dunkin Donuts, and his brushy, fertile, riverside meadow lying between the river and Main Street’s high plateau is the one Willard speaks of when looking west from Coleman’s. Today there are two manmade ponds, Horseshoe and The Donut, in that secluded sanctuary on the edge of downtown, but Conway says both of them were 20th century creations, ruling them out as potential early Bull Head ponds.

At this point, following years of destructive excavation and filling that’s significantly altered the Woodard Road landscape, it’s difficult indeed to reconstruct old Bull Head Pond of last-Indian fame. My guess is that the Bull Head and Cow Head were, before the construction of Woodard Road, one pond stretching from near the Green River bank well out into Interstate 91. All that’s left now is a stagnant little finger of a cattail pond squeezed between a big white farmhouse with and an unattached red barn and the ramp leading to the bridge over Route 91 to Colrain Road and GCC. Well, that and the ghost of Greenfield’s last Indian, that defiant Pocumtuck tribesman who clung to a place called home and refused to leave when friends and family were felling in mass exodus.

Like my side-yard magnolia, that lonely Indian who lurked on the edge of town survives, and his legend grows.

Spring Things

The greening of spring can envelop a man with inspiration — a young manured rye field underfoot stretching out in rich, vibrant green to a faraway budding border of faint pastels, high and low, some reds and browns daubed in, the streams at a swollen mumble, soothing from afar, as birds flitter about the beaver swamp, greener still, nest-building to rapturous mating songs. Thought stirs, nothing serious, just random introspection bouncing about like mayfly ovipositors on a placid lake, as you enjoy a brisk ramble fueled by cool, liberating morning air to expand your lungs, sharpen the senses.

Turkey season opens Monday, and although it’s again unlikely I’ll partake, I wish the fellas nothing but the best. Judging from what I’ve seen in my travels, it should be a good year, flocks of turkeys everywhere all winter and fall, big ones, even one I saw with 12 big toms, rare indeed, five to eight more typical. Let’s just hope this lymphoproliferative disease virus, or LPDV, doesn’t find its way here from the Southeast. If it does, our flocks could take a serious hit. No time for that discussion now, though. The tip just arrived today from a faraway learned friend, and I just don’t have time to chase it with grandson Jordie in town. Google it if your interest’s piqued. When I get a chance, I’ll do some digging and return to the subject if warranted. Promise.

Oh yeah, before I move onto other stuff, including Bullhead Pond, the location of which in the Greenfield Meadows is still bugging me, I ate my first fiddleheads Tuesday and they were delicious. Some things just taste healthy, fiddleheads among them. I stir-fried the tasty morsels hot in a little grapeseed oil with fresh-ground pepper and pink Himalayan salt, topped with a thin layer of Parmesan. Yeeeummy! So get out there, fellas. The pickin’s prime. I was surprised to find some already gone by, yet many clumps to come, a week and more away. Nice!

But back to the mystery location of Bullhead Pond, said by late, revered Greenfield historian Mary P. Wells Smith (1840-1930) — she of “Boy Captive” fame — to be the home of Greenfield’s last Indian, presumably around the turn of the 19th century. Smith’s oral tradition, passed from famed Deerfield Indian fighter Asa Childs to her father, placed the pond by an active spring in the western part of the Meadows. Judging from that description, I thought I had the site nailed after a meandering tour with an abutting landowner I work with. But — whoa! — not so fast. My trusted colleague came up with a little wrinkle over the Easter Weekend, when his oldest uncle stopped by and placed Bullhead Pond near where Davenport Trucking now stands. Then, when his 86-year-old grandmother, a Greenfield native who grew up on Conway Street, jumped into the discussion, she concurred the Bullhead Pond she knew was the same one her oldest son had identified off Colrain Street before it vanished with Interstate 91 construction. But it gets better. A day or two after the column hit the street, an email addressing the subject arrived from a man who did not identify himself but had “wrwando” for an email handle. His observation was that the only Bullhead Pond he knew sat at the site of today’s Davenport’s location. Something else: He spelled it the same way Smith had, Bull Head, which begs the question of whether its name was a reflection of its shape or the hornpout caught there? Hmmmmm? Another mystery to chase.

But back to Mr. Wrwando, which I’m guessing is a nickname for someone with the common Franklin County surname Wandeloski, his email read: “I spent the greater part of my life growing up in the Colrain Street area of Greenfield. The area around the Green River and the Bull Head was our stomping ground when we were growing up. Bull Head Pond was located on the southeast corner of the intersection of Woodard and Colrain roads. There was another pond on the southwest corner which is still there. I can remember as children my Dad taking us to the Bull Head to fish in the summer and to skate in the winter. Unfortunately, there were no restrictions on wetlands that we have today. Davenport began to fill in that pond to expand the area for equipment. The result is what you see there today: no pond and lots of heavy equipment.”

OK. I accept that old pond by Davenport’s being known during the 20th century as Bullhead Pond. However, I still think the site I visited along the western edge of the Lower Meadows is the more likely spot for the last Indian wigwam, because it would have been out of sight, out of mind, not just off the road on the outskirts of downtown. A contributing factor to my conclusion is that the father of the colleague who toured the property with me identified Bullhead Pond at the back of his property, and even spontaneously told of a stone pile there that he and his childhood friends called the Indian grave. That’s important. Yes, this dried-up pond that’s known to few today still carries Indian legend as it did in Mary P. Wells Smith day, a century ago.

I am well aware that a man like me ought to be careful what gets printed about a subject like this, and I am being careful because I don’t want to be responsible for creating inaccurate history, always difficult to erase. That said, I’m still leaning toward the old pond along The Meadow’s western perimeter, now a spring-hole marsh at the base of Greenfield Mountain near GCC’s garage, as the home of Greenfield’s last Indian. I could be otherwise persuaded, but need more evidence to pull me over by Davenport’s, which could in no way be described as sitting in the western part of the meadows no matter how you twisted it. Plus, I have a suspicion Ms. Smith, much older than any of our current sources, knew the pond she spoke of well. Maybe I’m giving her too much respect, but I don’t believe she would have pinpointed that pond for publication in her friend Lucy Cutler Kellogg’s History of Greenfield, 1900-1929 unless she was certain of where that last Indian lived. If the pond she was talking about sat at Davenport’s, wouldn’t she have described it as next to Green River instead of at the western edge of the Meadows?

Then again, maybe she was getting old, or perhaps Ms. Kellogg (1866-1956) was going deaf and heard western when Smith said eastern. Then again, maybe Kellogg knew it was eastern and wrote western by mistake. The possibilities are endless, I suppose.

Trust me, I’ll figure it out.

No sooner did I mention last week that it should be about time for the shad to start running and — Bingo! — the annual spawning run began. Yes, the Barrett Fish Lift at the Holyoke Dam lifted its first fish the day last week’s column hit the street, passed nine additional shad before closing down Saturday due to high water. Although that lift was still closed Wednesday, the West Springfield Project on the Westfield River and the Rainbow Fishway on the Farmington River in Connecticut are still up and running.  The migration will start picking up as the river warms. The water temperature in Holyoke this week is 45.5 Fahrenheit, too cold. The run annually peaks in the 60s and ends at just under 70, when upstream migration stops and spawning rituals start. Ah, spring.

Which reminds me of an email I received this week from a West Springfield shad fisherman named Jim Johnson, who targeted the Enfield (Conn.) Dam as a problem site in the Connecticut Valley fish-passage network.

“The shad will not be able make it up the Connecticut River to Holyoke if something is not done about removing or lowering the height of the old Enfield (Conn.) Dam just south of Route 190,” he wrote. “The only time I have ever observed a satisfactory number of upstream migrants is when the river is near flood stage. Years when the ice-out and spring rains come before the spawn migration, the number of fish caught in the Agawam section of the river is miniscule. Similar problems are experienced with alewives in Rhode Island. If the gates of the old Windsor Locks Canal were to be opened even partially, it would allow some shad to circumvent the dam. This would be an alternative to demolishing this nonfunctional entity that opponents argue would lower the river and destroy recreational use in the 15-mile stretch from Enfield to Holyoke. Another catch 22? Maybe so, but it would help the problem. I know I sound like just another voice crying, ‘Damn the damn dams’,”

No, not really, Jim. I’m no ally of the power companies. But we’ll have to wait and see what transpires after a much-better-than-expected run last year, when for the first time in many decades, a half-million shad passed Holyoke.

Wouldn’t it be nice if that continued?

Yeah, then we could focus on getting them through Turners Falls to their traditional stopping point of Bellows Falls, Vt.

Speaking of fishing, the Western District trucks are still rocking and rolling on highways and byways near you, with scheduled stops this week at the upper Deerfield River and Ashfield Lake, also at Clesson Brook in Ashfield/Buckland, South River in Ashfield/Conway, and Pelham Brook in Charlemont. T’other side of Franklin County, Connecticut Valley District trucks are scheduled for visits at the Millers and Sawmill rivers, Mill River in Deerfield/Whately, Pauchaug, Roaring and Mill brooks in Northfield, Cranberry Pond in Sunderland, Forestry Camp Pond in Warwick, and Puffers Pond in North Amherst.

Before I go, a quick note on the Ashfield Lake stocking: Old friend and half-assed relative Russell Williams called to alert anglers that his Ashfield Rod & Gun Club stocked 10 Tags-N-Trout rainbow trout as part of this week’s supplement. Each tag is redeemable for $20 gift certificates to either Ashfield Neighbors Convenience Store, Ashfield Lake House or Ashfield Hardware Store. The tags can be turned in at the convenience-store hang-out.

Streamside Rebuke

Peter Mallett can be a feisty devil, which comes as no surprise to me after years of entertaining phone conversations.

Yes, affable Pete Mallet — president and founder of the Millers River Fishermen’s Association — is a man of principle, not a bit timid about voicing an opinion on important matters, particularly hunting and fishing, thus, sure, an occasional dust-up. But this man of fiery French-Canadian plasma means well. No question about it. Still, let’s just say he’s not always, uhm, diplomatic. Yeah, that’s it. Diplomatic. Not always so. Thus he’s made enemies here and there. No big deal.

It just so happens that he kicked that temper of his into gear last week on the shores of Orange’s Lake Mattawa, a popular spot for pond anglers and boaters alike, what some may call sedentary anglers … or worse. Well, count Mallet out when it comes to that kind of fishing. He calls himself a fish hunter — that is, one who straps on a pair of hip boats and follows a stream through tangled woods, fields and swamps, hunting trout. Which doesn’t mean he’s never fished Mattawa. Indeed he has, but long, long ago. In fact, he’d venture a guess it’s been 40-some years since he last wet a line there; just not his kinda spot. Of course, that doesn’t stop him from checking it out on a spring whim, which, it seems, unfolded last week, when it didn’t take long for old Pete to get a hair across his ass. Why? Well, it seems he objected to a fella’s catch-and-release routine and wasn’t the least bit hesitant to correct him with a sharp rebuke at the water’s edge.

What brought Mallett to the Mattawa scene was a state stocking truck departing the boat ramp. Figuring he’d check things out, sure enough, a truck-follower was having quite a day for himself, nailing one dazed, disoriented and hungry trout after another and releasing them back into the lake, which seemed perfectly OK until closer inspection. Problem was that the guy was using sharp, lethal, barbed treble hooks and creating a gory crimson mess.

“He was catching beautiful football rainbows, all of them a pound-and-a-half, unhooking them and throwing them back in bleeding like stuck pigs,” recalled Mallett. “After the third or fourth fish, I had had enough, couldn’t take a second more. I went right down to him and said, ‘Why are you throwing those fish back? They aren’t going to live bleeding like that.’

“He just looks at me and says he likes catching trout, not eating them. He’s a catch-and-release man. I told him catch-and-release men don’t use treble hooks unless they remove the barbs. It’s easy to do with needle-nosed pliers. Either that or you buy barbless hooks to re-rig lures with, because barbed treble hooks are killers.”

Yes sir, classic Mallett. When he has something to say, there’s no holding back; just the way it is, like it or not. Some do. Some don’t. But Mallett doesn’t worry.

Which brings us to three consecutive Saturday-morning kids’-stocking events on the Millers River that he wants to publicize. The first dump will occur a week from Saturday, on April 28, at Alan Rich Park in Athol at 11 a.m. The other two will tale place at the same time at different sites on consecutive Saturdays — May 4 at the Orange Wastewater Treatment Plant, and May 11 at the Birch Hill Dam parking lot in South Royalston. Mixed in with loads of mostly one-pound trout will be some $8-a-pound lunker rainbows weighing four pounds and better, all from the Brewster Hatchery in Plymouth, according to Mallett, the oldest trout hatchery in America.

“Yeah, we plan to put out a couple of the ‘big guys’ at all three of the kids’ stockings, just to raise their eyebrows,” laughed Mallett. “You know what they say: ‘Get a kid hooked young and they’ll fish forever.’ I believe in that. That’s why any kids interested in joining us are invited.”

Those big, 4-plus-pound trout will be part of a 200-pound allotment of lunkers the club plans to secretly stock at special Millers River sites this year. “If you want to know where we put them, then you gotta buy a $5 membership,” said Mallett, always the huckster. “People have been very generous. Otherwise, we wouldn’t be able to afford these trout.”

And, as old friend Freddie Bender used to say, “you betcha believe it” Mallett will have something to say if he catches any catch-and-release men hooking his big trout with barbed treble hooks and throwing them back to die slow, grueling deaths. He doesn’t put up with such inappropriate, unacceptable behavior. If you don’t believe it, ask the fella he confronted at Mattawa, the one who got a good taste of the Mallett ire.

Love it, or leave it, because Pete’s going nowhere.

Indian Pond

Where to start? That’s the problem today facing me. I know where I’m headed, just am not sure how to get there. Hmmmm? Bear with me. Plus, due to a spring freshet of info overflow, I must run a rare outdoors notebook inside.

First, though, I probably ought to begin with what got me started on this week’s topic: the search for Bullhead Pond (written “Bull Head” in the reference I noticed in Lucy Cutler Kellogg’s History of Greenfield, 1900-1929). The small, spring-fed body of water was said by Greenfield historian Mary P. Wells Smith to be the home of Greenfield’s last Indian, presumably during the last decade of the 18th or first decade of the 19th century. This Pocumtuck must have loved his homeland dearly, because he didn’t flee with the rest of his people, who were long gone to Stockbridge, Schaghticoke, the Mohawk Valley or northern Lake Champlain by then. M.P.W. Smith lived in the Greenfield Meadows at today’s Menard Farm, and she obviously knew the pond, at the edge of which the last Indian’s wigwam stood, according to oral tradition that came to her by way of her father, who learned it from famed Deerfield Indian fighter Asa Childs. Ms. Smith located the pond in the “west part of the Meadows … near a fine spring,” which, living in the Meadows myself, gave me a pretty good idea of its placement. Not only that, I knew just who to query. In fact, had to travel no farther than my own Recorder desk.

It’s funny how some things pull together quickly, because it seems to me that on the very night I inquired about the pond and got a bemused look from the young fella I queried, his phone rang and his father was on the other end. Yes! The very man I had asked him to question. I figured his dad, about my age, would have an answer.

“Hey,” my buddy asked, “do you know of a Bullhead Pond.”

“Yeah, it’s out at the back corner by GCC. There was a pile of rocks nearby that we, as kids, called the Indian grave.”

Well, at that point, I thought I had it pegged, just about where, judging from the terrain, I surmised it would have sat. But then, within a week, my colleague’s uncle, his father’s older brother, came to town for Easter and confused matters some. When asked if he knew Bullhead Pond, he said, yes, it was the one where they used to skate over by Davenport’s, before it was chopped into a sliver of its former self by Interstate 91 construction.

That’s possible, but judging from Ms. Smith’s western-Meadows description, it seems more likely that the pond she referred to was the one my colleague’s father had identified. Who knows? Maybe both ponds were called Bullhead at one time or another; or perhaps the name got confused over the years. Then again, maybe the older brother, long removed from the area, just remembered wrong, always possible from a man who moved far away long ago and rarely returns “home.”

Anyway, my friend and I toured his gorgeous, fertile acreage last week and eventually took a look at what is left of the Bullhead Pond his father pinpointed. Maybe someday I’ll go back there with the old man himself to see if that Indian grave is still there. But that’s for another day. On our first visit, we were looking for the pond site and didn’t need to hunt too hard for what I’d describe today as a spring hole. Young Springer Spaniel gun dog Chub-Chub was more than eager to explore that splashy bog, which has been compromised by GCC construction and drainage ditches. Chubby charged right in and soon had a nesting pair of vociferous mallards bursting into angry, circling flight. Jacked up, tail wagging furiously, Chubby and mother Lily popped into the open mowing heading north in determined pursuit. When they dead-ended in the far corner, both of them, frisky, penetrated the low cover of a sumac hump and soon out came a hen woodcock that flushed straight over our heads.

Yeah, I know “animal lovers” will get their hackles up, maybe even fire off critical letters to the editor objecting to our harassment of nesting wetland birds. Sorry, but I don’t buy it any more than I’m buying the Montague poop-scooper hysteria I’ve read about. Tell me, what has changed since I was a kid, anyway, dog poop or the unfortunate folks stepping in it? Those ducks and that woodcock the dogs disturbed the other day will be just fine, thank you. They weren’t bothered by us any more than they are by daily foxes, coyotes, bobcats, mink, otters or raccoons. So what’s the fuss?

But enough of that little diversion; back to Bullhead Pond and the rich, peaceful, bucolic Meadows I call home. Before arriving at what is left of pond in the marsh woods bordering the southwest corner of his hayfield, we had toured the northern perimeter of an abutter’s property, where we saw a flock of about 35 feeding turkeys I was quite familiar with. Yes, I had been watching those birds for a month or more during my daily travels. The morning flock was feeding through secluded corn stubble along a brushy fence-row concealing them from the road of my address. By afternoon, I knew they’d be visible from the road feeding in stubble t’other side the fence-row, but even that is about to change as they enter their spring routine. Soon, I told my friend, they’d be breaking up into smaller groups, with six or eight at Sunken Meadow, six or eight on his property, some on his neighbor’s land, still others scattered along the ridge above. The three or four dominant boss gobblers I’d been watching strut for the ladies would soon have their spring harems assembled before getting abandoned in favor of spring nests and summer broods. Then I’ll be bumping into little families down by the river. By July, there’ll be hens and poults feeding on insects between the brushy Christmas-tree rows. Lily and Chubby will know they’re there and will search them out daily, often flushing them into trees on both sides of the Green River. No, I’m not harassing wildlife. At least that’s not the way I view it; just teaching my little feathered friends to escape canine pursuit.

Well, it didn’t take long for my prediction about winter-flock break-up to bear fruit. Just Monday morning while walking the dogs down the wooded escarpment into a flooded marsh bordering Sunken Meadow, I had just crossed an uprooted blow-down over swollen beaver-pond back-up, when Lily and Chubby-Chub “lit up” and sprinted in opposite directions chasing the same airborne scent. Chubby aggressively splashed through chest-high water, nose shoulder high and full of something enticing, likely the mallards or wood ducks we have flushed daily, I thought. But Lily, no, it was not ducks she was after. I could tell by the way she was running. Whatever it was (maybe a rabbit?), she was running straight, fast and wide, eventually breaking through the wetland into the Christmas trees and sprinting along the perimeter to a few apple trees in the southwest corner of the northern field. There, she stopped, sprinted back toward me, turned the corner at a sumac cluster, and ran right past Chubby to the southwest corner of the southern field, turning right and sprinting straight to the beaver dam. She ran halfway across the tangled sticks and caked mud, retraced her steps into the field, splashed across a narrow, flowing channel and climbed a 12-foot oak knoll. When she reached the spine overlooking the beaver pond, she sprinted west before disappearing over the the south slope facing the hidden pond. That’s when I caught a flash and, yup, a single turkey in flight through tall wetland oaks, Lily pursuing, it ascending and pulling away. The turkey maneuvered with aplomb through the skeletal tree trunks and across the Green River, perching in a tall, mottled, riverside buttonball. Lily chased the bird to the riverbank, located it in the tree across the swollen river and trotted back to me.

I was unable to identify that bird’s sex. Although it may have been a solitary hen searching for a nesting site, my guess is that it was an immature male, or jake,  driven off by boss toms that had tolerated it in the winter flock. Jakes are now outcasts about to embark on a long, difficult yet “educational” process. Soon they’ll be men, but now they must watch from afar as their fathers and uncles strut their stuff for the lovely ladies. If instinct takes over and a jake ventures too close or has the audacity to intercept a pretty lady strolling through the hardwoods, it’ll risk bruised and bloody consequences governed by natural law called pecking order.

Yes, it sure does suck being an adolescent male, regardless of species or spirit. Then, before you can say lickety-split, you’re old and gray, not a freakin’ thing you can do about it.

Just the way it is and will forever be.

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