Radical Reversal

It’s truly difficult coming to grips with rare occasions when I wear conservative stripes in an argument.

Yeah, I know. Fancy that! Me conservative? Well, in this case, yes. That’s right, the very same man who’s probed the principals of anarchy and individual sovereignty for 40 years, ever since those formative, seed-planting lectures by Robert Paul Wolff, a political-philosophy professor who landed at UMass after leaving Columbia University following the historic Spring 1968 student takeover of Hamilton Hall. It seems to me he was fired for openly defending the protestors’ rights, but I may be wrong because I could find nothing to confirm that distant memory. So, maybe he just left on his own. It doesn’t matter. Out of that watershed New York City event in Wolff’s then young career (he’s still going strong) came two short books “In Defense of Anarchism” and “The Ideal of the University,” which are still in print. I read them both during courses I took with the man, one of far too few teachers I connected with.

But I’m not here to address anarchy, a fashionable subject in the Sixties and early Seventies and, for that matter, even today among the Occupy crowd. And, yes, I myself do occasionally traipse back into that radical realm, most recently with the reading of Eunice Minette Schuster’s “Native American Anarchism,” published by Smith College in 1932. Actually, what drew my interest was the title. Then, despite discovering that it had nothing to do with Indians, the reviews interested me. I hunted down an “as-new” 1970 hardcover reprint online for 15 bucks and figured, why not? It was a good decision and better read, even though I really ought to be thinking about my taxes this time of year. Anyhow, I would recommend the still-relevant book to anyone trying to grasp the pure, pre-Haymarket/Sacco & Vanzetti definition of American anarchy, a flavor not the least bit threatening to thinkers. Yes, of course Thoreau’s in there. But enough diversion! Back to the task at hand, that being my role as a conservative in a local issue that’s recently found its way to my inner sanctum: Native American sacred landscapes and contact-period history of our upper Pioneer Valley.

Judging from the lively email traffic that’s been swooping at me ever since I ventured into this discussion, it’s a hot subject indeed. These ancient altars built to worship the sun, stars, moon and earthen spirits fascinate me. I do believe they’re real, and realize the Indians’ holistic, Pantheistic world view is much more compatible with mine than anything Christianity has to offer. I’m talking about ritualistic landscapes with components such as cairns (pictured above), stacked boulders, balanced rocks, stone rows and stone piles, maybe even stone beehive chambers designed to accept the first rays of a solstice sunrise. I know that these structures exist right here in our valley’s gentle hills. I’ve seen them with my own eyes and (now you’re really going to think I’m nuts) have even felt their magnetic spiritual pull long before I had a clue why. A case in point is the photo of that little-known balanced rock which has twice accompanied this column. I vividly recall the first time I laid eyes on that odd glacial-erratic boulder many years ago while poking around on a solitary deer hunt. I could feel the spiritual energy emanating from the massive round stone standing on edge. Don’t ask me how but I somehow recognized its supernatural aura, probably similar to the first primitive human beings who found it while gathering berries through the upland tundra. They may have believed it was a marker of some sort left by a mythical creator/transformer like Gluskap of Western Abenaki myth. It finally all came into crisp, clear focus for me after stumbling onto and reading a book called “Manitou” at the Bookmill. I read it, several other books on the same subject and am now a ritualistic-landscape believer.

What I find myself questioning these days is why some folks similarly intrigued by the subject must flitter off into the ozone of giants and Vikings and Celtic Culdee Monks? Which is not to say it’s impossible these people were here long before Columbus, possibly even diffused with natives, leaving behind stone and linguistic hints of their presence. But, still, why must we go there before thoroughly exploring exactly what our native people were capable of building and believing. Why assume these people were too ignorant to come up with such advanced stuff on their own? Isn’t that just perpetuating annoying misinformation spawned by our Puritan forefathers? I refuse to go there, even if I must suffer the indignity of a “revisionist” label, which seems to cast a pejorative hue from most who use it. Not me. I’d proudly display that contrarian feather in my cap any day, even if I am a Puritan descendant from a long line of deacons and church elders.

Although it’s true that Native Americans left no written records, it’s not their fault that their history has vanished. It was intentionally erased by their conquerors. Eighteenth-century preacher/scholar Ezra Stiles was not one of them. President of Yale from 1778 to his 1795 death, the man had roots in the earliest Connecticut Valley town of Windsor, Conn., and knew plenty about Indian culture and beliefs, even the significance of some sacred landscapes, secret caves, ritualistic rocks and stone piles. It is, however, believed that his successor to the Yale throne, bitter rival Timothy Dwight, removed many of Stiles’ Indian records from the Yale archives, if indeed they were there and not at a friend’s at the time of his death. Petty jealously is never a good thing for history and posterity, and this is just another sad, glittering example. Despite never publishing a book in his lifetime, Stiles left thousands of pages of valuable journals that read like a newspaper, displaying throughout his stark-naked, rare brand of eclectic curiosity. A focus of his happened to be Indian culture and religion, and he pursued the subject at a time when language barriers were not the obstruction they had been for much of the 17th-century. Still, his valuable documentation of Indian history is likely gone forever unless it miraculously surfaces in the secret drawer of a Queen Anne highboy or some dusty attic box that could exist right here in Franklin County. Stiles’ daughter Emilia and son-in-law Jonathan Leavitt Jr., Esq., (a Yale grad) lived and died in Greenfield. Ultimately the executors of Ezra Stiles’ estate due to the death of male heirs, the Leavitt’s stately Main Street “mansion house” is today Greenfield’s public library. So, antique pickers beware, some long-lost, valuable “Stiles Papers” could still be hiding in the neighborhood.

Something interesting about Stiles fits snugly into our narrative. Though he wrote little about it, he believed in a North American race of giants, basing his belief on Indian legend he had heard in his travels and read in correspondence. It seems that pioneers were constantly writing him about the discoveries of giant man-made mounds of Ohio and West Virginia as well as fossils, large bones and teeth of mammoth prehistoric beasts, and huge human skulls and skeletons. Plus, an Iroquois chief Stiles had met was adamant that prehistoric giant human beings existed in the Hudson, Mohawk and Champlain valleys. It seems Stiles took the bait and became a true-believer. He’s wasn’t alone. A hundred years later, historians right here in the Pioneer Valley, including Deerfield’s George Sheldon, were still floating the wild tales, printing in newspapers and town histories the discovery of seven- and eight-foot skeletons unearthed from Indian grave sites. There’s even local tales about mid-20th century farmers uncovering massive skulls in fields they cultivated up and down the valley, including right here in Deerfield and Northfield. The question is not whether large, Wilt Chamberlain-like human beings could have existed here in ancient times. There seems to be proof of that. But how many? That’s the question. The most likely answer is few.

Of course, that’s just a personal opinion from my minuscule, rarely displayed conservative side. Frankly, I’m not ready to chase the far-out stuff. I’d like to pin down the prehistoric Indian history first. But wait a minute. Now this: a recent twist from Leverett, correspondence that’s interesting indeed, even other-worldly. A former UMass Registrar octogenarian who typically ignores sports and sports pages, was attracted a couple of weeks ago by a different photo of the same stone cairn planted out front on this sports section. A few days later, a large, overstuffed brown envelope greeted me on my work desk. Inside was a book, the copy of a chapter from another book, and a provocative, even insulting, cover letter. A thin-skinned newspaperman would have read the first sentence and tossed the whole package in the waste basket. Not me. I loved it. No fan of newspapers or the mainstream media, the man has in less than 10 years published 11 books, three of which I have now read and enjoyed. Two of them were about Leverett, the other a risqué memoir that only swelled my interest. The Leverett stuff delves into what he thinks are important prehistoric archaeological sites, not to mention old roads, prehistoric lakes, stone rows, cellar holes, Cranberry Pond, even bits and pieces about the late, great Walter Jones, an Amherst icon I once called friend. All of it’s right up my alley. So, yeah, I’ll try to meet this dude face to face. I hope to take a ride through the countryside and chat. How can I resist? One never knows where such a discussion will lead. The late Bill Hubbard’s advice that “our hills are honeycombed with interesting people” rings clear. Yes sir, and yet another example from that sweetest of hives has found his way to my front door.

Stay tuned.

I’m outa here.

Mixed Messages

Standing lonely in its black cardboard slipcase to the right of the monitor on my cluttered mahogany desk is the Folio Society edition of what may well be late American scribe Ambrose Bierce’s finest literary contribution, “The Devil’s Dictionary,” which came into play this week.

Hopelessly mired of late in the greasy mud of archaeology, anthropology and prehistory, I decided on a whim to search for Bierce’s definition of those three words and went 0-for-3. Damn! Undeterred, I took a shot at the word history and — Yes! — there it was: “An account mostly false, of events mostly unimportant, which are brought about by rulers mostly knaves, and soldiers mostly fools.” Above it was Bierce’s succinct definition of historian as “a broad-gauge gossip.” That’s what I love about that old Civil War vet who wandered off to the Mexican Revolution and vanished. He can keep you grounded, cautious to look before leaping, careful to employ humility in debate. But, still, this disconnect between amateur and professional archaeologists, anthropologists and local historians is starting to gnaw away at me. Why can’t these people of good intentions combine their expertise and energy toward cooperative discovery? Must the professionals insist upon leaning toward threadbare official policy and stances, even those that have twisted the truth for centuries? It’s mind-boggling, not to mention counter-productive. Shouldn’t scholars with gilt-framed degrees behind their desks know better, even if they did earn these fancy documents from some online five and dime?

So what exactly is it that I’m tugging at, you ask? OK. Again, those sacred landscapes, natural altars worshiped by ancient New England aborigines, primitive people who were no different than contemporaries in Asia or Africa, South America or East Bum Chuck. Fact is that they all had to explain phenomena beyond human capabilities while understanding their universe — the sun, the moon, the stars and the four related seasons they depended upon for hunting, gathering and survival under a holistic world view. How difficult is that to comprehend? You’d think quite difficult when exploring some of the petty disputes between card-carrying archaeologists and what they refer to, perhaps pejoratively, as “avocational” researchers. It’s interesting. First you’re discussing stone tools, rock shelters and ritualistic landscapes. Then, before you know what hits you, it’s off the rails to theories about pre-Columbian Culdee Monks, Celts, Norsemen, Northern Africans and Portuguese sailors here on our shore. I guess it’s not unimaginable but why must we try to attribute these mysterious stone structures to foreigners and space aliens? Why couldn’t Native Americans have built amazing stone structures similar to those made contemporaneously in faraway lands? The biggest problem as I see it is that since the very beginning, the goal of colonial historians, many of them clergymen, was to erase all North American history that occurred before European ships dropped anchor. And from what I’ve seen in recent months, state and federal officials are still locked into that flawed historical perception.

What sent me tumbling back down this steep ravine of inquiry was a quick revisit to the book that got my hunt started: “Manitou: The Sacred Landscape of New England’s Native Civilization.” Monday, I traveled through central Vermont’s familiar White River Valley along Route 89 to deliver grandsons Jordan and Arie home. Around Bethel I remarked to my wife how, similar to our own Pioneer Valley, the manageable hills lent themselves to ritualistic landscapes. The next day I decided to reread “Manitou” Chapter 1 about the site in that area known as “Calendar One.” I had forgotten the exact town but knew we were right in the neighborhood when I spoke to my wife on the road, the peaks of Killington and Ascutney looming in the distant south. So, after running the dogs through invigorating, wind-swept cold Tuesday, I took a hot shower, sat down to read and came away all stirred up. Isn’t it interesting how you often gain new perspective from rereadings? This was an example. Despite what the widow of one of “Manitou’s” authors had in front of my own hot fireplace hinted about her husband and his partner butting heads with official archaeologists who routinely dismissed their theories and speculations, I hadn’t focused on that angle my first time through their book. I was at the time more interested in concepts than bureaucratic obstacles. Then, on my second reading — Bingo! — there it was in bold black and white. After spending countless hours exploring and excavating the site, not to mention poring over primary records and oral traditions pertaining to it, “amateur” archaeologist Byron E. Dix alerted the proper authorities to his findings and, you guessed it, a team of top regional experts visited it and concluded, yeeee-up, that a subterranean stone chamber, hilltop stone rows, a notched standing stone, and other related features were all the work of 18th and 19th century settlers.

Hmmmm?

Most disturbing to me, personally, is what I view as the intentional institutional erasure of ancient history that is and has been going on much closer to home for centuries, with a noticeable recent surge related to development. A man who sat in my front parlor a couple of weeks ago to discuss the buried indigenous history underfoot here in the upper Pioneer Valley brought with him an overstuffed loose-leaf binder of letters between him and state and town officials. His goal is simple and altruistic. He wants to preserve crucial archaeological sites and study them before they are destroyed. Asked how long it had taken him to accumulate such an impressive stack of correspondence, probably 10 inches thick, he answered, “Oh, this is all from the past year about one site (in a northern Franklin County town I won’t name).” And that is just one site and one “avocational” researcher. There are other sites and other researchers, two of whom have also paid me a visit to discuss what they perceive to be state-sanctioned destruction of precious sites. Well, that is if you value Paleo, Archaic and Woodland  artifacts as precious. These folks claim that despite being paid favorable lip service, this is not and has not been the case with state archaeologists, who the people I’ve spoken to view as friends of development. To back up this charge, these passionate folks point to nearby sites that have been rubber-stamped to approval, places like Six Flags in Agawam, WMECO in West Springfield and Walmart in Greenfield. Another site likely soon to be in conservationists’ cross-hairs is a potential downtown Springfield casino on a site they’ll probably want explored before flushing yet another invaluable Connecticut Valley historical site down the toilet, carting away artifacts, maybe even human remains, in dump-truck loads of dirt.

There’s no denying that this is a difficult dilemma. You can’t put a halt to all riverside Pioneer Valley development in an effort to protect potential archaeological sites. That’s unrealistic. But we can’t just say that it’s too late now, either, that there has already been way too much destruction to ever piece it all back together. How can the archaeological watchdogs not be scrambling at every turn to recover whatever they can, document it, collect artifacts, inventory everything and move forward.

Despite what the history books tell you, the United States did not start at Roanoke and Jamestown and Plymouth Rock. No, the fact is that indigenous human beings were here to greet and in some cases ensure survival of those first settlers. Shouldn’t we be committed to learning as much as possible about the lost civilization that existed here before Columbus?

To me, the answer is yes. I think I’m a minority. Sad, because history does matter — all of it.

Old Ambrose Bierce, the fightn’ man who never feared truth or hate mail, understood. He condemned the messengers.

Home Brew

Friends of Wissatinnewag, Jehovah’s Witnesses, orange flames dancing, firewood popping, gasping, even emitting soft screams from the toasty Rumford fireplace. Just a little tease to an interesting weekend. Interesting indeed.

It started early. A Friday-morning visit from three experts, among them the widow of the co-author of “Manitou: The Sacred Landscape of New England’s Native Civilization,” a bible of sorts. Published in 1989, authors James Mavor and Byron Dix cast somber light on a topic that has stirred interest, spawned new interpretations for familiar sites and created quite a buzz in local coffee shops. If you don’t believe it, check out a Jim Vieira stone-structures presentation. Popular? You betcha, judging from the local lecture halls he fills. Yeah, yeah, I know the guy’s gone a little off the rails with his tales of double-molared giants and the alleged hush-hush Smithsonian conspiracy to conceal them. Still, his slide shows of balanced rocks, pedestal boulders, rocking boulders, stone piles, stone beehives, prayer seats, Manitou stones, mounds, trenches and solstice markers are very real indeed; not only that but they’re “out there” for all to see in the hills that frame our Pioneer Valley.

My guests were drawn by a column I wrote a few weeks back describing and showing photos of a site I believe to be an ancient sacred landscape. Well, those photos of a balanced rock and its companion mountain-top prayer seat buried deep in our western hills created quite a commotion, emails swarming like Northwoods black flies. My suspicion that the site fits a ritualistic-landscape profile had been quickly confirmed by stonestructures.org experts who viewed photos. After a lively string of Q&A’s, these two experts were convinced I was onto something important and told me what else to search for on future visits. Soon after that column hit the street, an email arrived from the woman who arranged our enlightening Friday gathering. She would bring two men with whom she’s currently developing the interactive “Nolumbeka Project” website, where future sacred-landscape researchers will be able to trade pictures, theories and observations. Also, she said, one of the men was eager for a field trip to the site I had photographed, if that was OK with me. Yes, I told her, I was game, would like to share the site with an expert. I have learned from other discovery missions that you can never have enough eyes evaluating a subject. Everyone seems to see something different, has an enticing little tidbit to add, and every shred of information is important when trying to piece together a difficult puzzle … which segues straight into a related topic, that of a welcome surprise our Friday visit deposited on my lap.

I was pleased to discover early in our four-way discussion that both of my male, 60-something visitors carried Indian blood. Even more intriguing was the fact that they were both “Friends of Wissetinnewag,” an activist group some local folks will recall being vocally opposed the controversial Greenfield’s Walmart project. Their contention was that the proposed site was a prehistoric, sacred, indigenous burial ground overlooking an important seasonal fishing site that annually attracted Indians from miles away. According to one of the men, various archaeological digs at that “Mackin site” have unearthed artifacts dating from Paleo points to colonial musket balls, ancient clues spanning some 13,000 years. It’s amazing. Who would have ever dreamed that sitting right there in the comforts of home, warm fire crackling, was the man, a well-known “avocational archaeologist” and Native American historian, who had allegedly uncovered Paleo and/or Early Archaic human remains on Canada Hill only to be accused by a venerable, now-retired UMass archaeologist of planting evidence from a Vermont site. Hmmmm? Interesting indeed. Way more than I had bargained for.

More important than meeting this intriguing man was the fact that I had then communicated at length with both the man who discovered the grave site and the archaeologist who called him a liar. I do recall reading the planted-evidence charge in the paper and immediately harboring a healthy dose of skepticism. I do not, however, recall the source of the accusation being named. Well, now I know who it was, and have better insight, which isn’t to say I don’t respect her. I do, very much. But, wait, get a load of this: In recent months another well-known local “avocational archaeologist” — this one a town official and officer of a respected regional archaeological organization — has been bending my ear about deceptive state and academic archaeologists who are more concerned with secrecy than interactive discovery at rare, important, ancient sites in the upper half of our Pioneer Valley. My source is irked that the findings are inaccessible to him after he pinpointing the sites that have been professionally excavated and explored. “They’ll tell you they keep everything secret to protect valuable sites from looters,” he said. “But, trust me, they’re the only looters, and they’re doing it with the state’s blessing. Shouldn’t the towns and/or landowners of the sites they’re removing artifacts from know what they’re taking? When I asked a high-ranking state official that question, I had to hold the phone three feet from my ear during a loud, 10-minute tirade.”

Although I admit knowing little about archaeological protocol and regulations, this informed source hadn’t introduced me to a new realm of local history. I have for many years been interested in contact-period Pioneer Valley Indian village sites, including the so-called “Pocumtuck Fort” said to be sacked by Mohawks in 1664 or 1665, leaving the defeated local tribe scattered, its fertile croplands at the confluence of the Deerfield, Green and Connecticut rivers wide open for Massachusetts Bay Colony settlement. Then this man, out of the blue, contacts me around Thanksgiving to put a bug in my ear and bring me “up to speed” on recent developments, doing so by delivering a pile of recent scholarly articles along with a stack of state regulations enacted to keep archaeological discovery secret. And now, lo and behold, with that project under way, me poring over his and related data — Bingo! — into my path leaps a sacred-landscape triumvirate to substantiate accusations which, unbeknownst to them, I already knew of. It seemed too good to be true.

“Some would call this a coincidence,” I told my one of my three Friday visitors. “Not me. I believe stuff like this happens for a reason.”

It’s difficult for me to get my head around archaeological scholars who give lip service to public teamwork and invite community assistance for their projects, then hide the artifacts and discoveries in dark university vaults that are inaccessible to folks who could possibly be helpful. I do understand keeping important, artifact-rich archaeological sites secret to eliminate looting, but I cannot comprehend hiding artifacts and keeping reports confidential. If people knew what to look for, they may bring to light new  exploratory sites. I’m making progress on this investigation and will continue to feed out my discoveries piecemeal, similar to the Atlantic salmon and cougar inquiries I have pursued in the past. Believe me when I say I’m on it. I love this stuff.

But enough of that. Before I wrap this up and return to reading about Algonkian creator and transformer myths and folklore, let’s jump back to my two Jehovah’s Witness pals, bibles and pamphlets in hand. Yes, they pulled their gray Kia SUV into my driveway Saturday morning at 11, just as I was heading out the door to run the dogs. I’ve known one of them for many years, met him as the co-coach of a local baseball team. They stop to chat from time to time on Saturdays, and I must admit they seem to have a sixth sense for arriving at appropriate times. On this occasion, they had somehow sniffed out a horrific suicide that had rocked my family only a few days earlier.

“I don’t know how you fellas do it,” I grinned. “It’s almost like you’ve been sent from heaven. But don’t get your hopes up. You ain’t converting me. I’m destined for the fires of hell.”

They took it in stride, warm smiles, have grown to expect it. Then the unexpected.

“Would you boys care to come in for a minute?” I asked. “I’ve got a nice fire going in the front parlor.”

“Why not?”

And in we went.

I think the boys keep returning because they never know where our conversation will traipse off to. Oh, it could be a theological discussion about the works-and-grace argument of 17th century Boston, perhaps evangelism or corrupt evangelical con men like Jim Baker or Jimmy Swaggart; hey, maybe even an old diamond tale that the former coach seems to enjoy. The one he seems to favor occurred on a 1976 road trip to Half Moon, N.Y., where it seems a local bad boy six weeks removed from his first knee-surgery got himself into quite a tangle during his first at-bat against some highly-touted Sienna College righty who’d drawn  a flock of scouts and a retinue of fans to the opener of a sunny Sunday twin-bill. The old coach claims the jabbering between the bad boy and the umpire started right up on the first pitch, a called strike the batter didn’t like. I’m not sure he’s got the facts straight. I was there but can’t say I remember every little detail. It was long ago. What I do know is that, although this ballplayer could be a challenge, I never knew him to be an umpire baiter. That said, if he thought an umpire had missed a pitch and put him in a predicament, he wouldn’t hesitate to say something. Not show him up, mind you, just step out of the batter’s box, pick up a handful of dirt, spit, look out toward the pitcher and quietly inform the ump that, “You missed that one, Blue.” So my guess is that that’s how this one actually got going. The ump had “rabbit ears,” overreacted, didn’t want to hear it. Isn’t it interesting how these memorable ballpark tales tend to improve, not necessarily mellow, with age? This is an example.

Anyway, the way Jehovah’s disciple recalls it, the argument started right away, on that first pitch. The batter thought it was low and away. The ump said it caught the corner. Then, when the second pitch found the same spot and was called the same way, the private “discussion” at the plate escalated. It’s hard to keep the crowd out of it when the umpire loudly scolds a hitter, authoritatively tells him to shut up and get back in the batter’s box, then strips his mask and yells, “One more word out of you and you’re gone!” That always brings the crowd into the dispute.

Well, knowing the hitter as I did, I suppose he must have thought the umpire’s instructions sounded far too much like some wimpy grammar-school principal, Boy Scout bully or camp counselor trying to play the tough guy, which was never the way to approach him. Irritated and more determined than ever to salvage the at-bat, he bore down and worked the count even by fouling back some tough pitches. Then, when he got his pitch — fastball, inner half, belt high — he opened his hips and smacked a high-rising moon shot far over the left fielder’s head to a place where few balls in that park landed. As he raced triumphantly around first base and knew he was going to touch ’em all, he hollered out to the plate umpire.

“Hey Blue, did you see that one? That’s what a strike looks like. Get in the game.”

Well, that was it. The umpire had had enough. He removed his mask, raced onto the grass in front of the plate, and gave his antagonist the old heave-ho, shouting and motioning with his hand and arm that, “You’re out of here!”

That’s when the coach, Jehovah’s disciple, ran out toward the plate to plead his case.

“Hey, Ump,” he begged. “You can’t throw a man out of a game when he’s still running the bases.”

The umpire looked at him, strolled back to his little white box behind the plate and waited silently for the hitter to finish his home-run trot. As he crossed the plate, the ump followed him toward the dugout, mask in hand by his hip, did a little three- or four-step shuffle, wound his free hand up behind his head, aggressively dropped it forward and pointed to the parking lot.

“OK, now you’re outta here!” he hollered. “Leave the ballpark.”

The banished ballplayer didn’t get into it, just calmly walked to the dugout, collected his bat, glove and hat and sauntered to his car, where the pitcher’s gray-haired Sienna coach approached him.

“Hey, Kid, who do you play for? Never seen anyone hit one like that off my pitcher. That was quite a shot.”

“Blame the umpire,” the ballplayer answered. “He sharpened my focus.”

You know, I forgot to ask my Jehovah buddy what ever happened to that guy who got tossed. A wild one, his detractors always said he’d end dead or in jail. Maybe he’s still kickin’. If so, probably stationed nightly at the local watering hole, reminiscing with gray teammates back to the glory days, their best, before he bangs down one last Jack and passes out in his hands on the bar in the hokey one-cop town he grew up in.

I gotta give those Jehovahs credit. They sure can spin a yarn. I suppose that’s why I ask ’em in … every now and again.

Happy Trails

It’s not impressive when, on the way out, you peer over your shoulder from the lip overlooking Sunken Meadow. Just a thin, meandering line in the snow, less than a foot wide, a path to winter fitness and sanity, plus fresh air and exercise for me and the dogs, them cutting tributaries willy-nilly in pursuit of fresh scent.

No, it doesn’t look like much unless you yourself have made it. Then you understand the work involved to bust it out through deep, crusty snow. I hesitated for a few days after the snowstorm, mainly because I feared the truck wouldn’t make it to my preferred parking place, out of the way along a high, elevated Green River escarpment. Finally, I couldn’t endure slothful indoor purgatory any longer, even though I do love reading, once I noticed that the backyard snow by the kennel had compressed a bit by late last week. So I gave it a shot, loading up the dogs, kicking the truck into 4-wheel drive through the upper-meadow snow, and breaking a double-rutted path to my spot. Then the travail began, the chore of cutting a footpath, which required raising my feet high on each step to crash through cumbersome crust. Crunch, crunch, crunch I trod, footprints a bit splayed, aggressive boot tread crisp and clear.

Whew! The first two days were by far the worst.

Day one, I got halfway around the first field and thought, gee, maybe a man my age (only 59) ought not to be tempting the fates in cold, lung-burning air. And yes, that thought did squeeze out a drop of conservative juice I mostly conceal, swinging me to my senses and back toward the truck, an abbreviated trek. Why push it? I’d see what the next day brought.

Most interesting on that refreshing maiden journey were the tracks left by four deer I have likely watched since they were fawns. They had been all through the meadow, hugging the first wild-rose-bush border, likely nibbling at the Vitamin C-rich rose hips before wandering in and out of the Christmas trees to eat a buried, green, fuzzy, large-leafed weed they seemed to prefer that looked like rhubarb and didn’t interest them a bit before it snowed. Surprising was the large rectangle pawed up below outreaching boughs from a massive beech tree I wrote much about two summers ago, when there were meaty beechnuts everywhere on the ground below. This year, despite never finding a good nut on my daily walks, there were apparently some there, judging from 10- by 3-foot patch dug out where a large, low, muscular leader once drooped out six or eight feet over the open field before climbing to the sky. That was before the memorable late-October snowstorm of 2011 snapped it like a twig and dropped it to the ground, where it still today lies, waiting to be cut into firewood. So, yeah, I guess there were nuts this year. News to me. Like I told the boys at work one night this fall: my eyes ain’t what they used to be but my vision has never been better. They got a good laugh out of that. I wasn’t lying.

That evening, when my wife returned from work, I think I sprang concern by telling her I had taken a walk and, at one point, thought it could be my last, the walking that heavy. She just looked at me like only a woman can. I guess women will never understand what drives men to do some of the things the fairer sex views as foolish. Then, the next morning, Saturday, as I was obviously preparing for another snowy ramble, she dug out her little-used, 10-inch L.L. Bean Maine Hunting Shoes, laced them up tight sitting in the burgundy leather wing chair in front of the toasty soapstone woodstove and said, “I figured it’s so nice out that I’d join you.”

Nice, I thought. No, I never object to two-legged companionship for my daily adventures, which are more typically solo. It seems I’ve become quite a loner as I age, though I must say I’m seldom bored. So along my wife came on day two, telling me soon after exiting the truck to just go along without worrying about her keeping up. She’d follow at her own pace. Cool with that, off I went, looking down so that I could step where I hadn’t the previous day, kicking out the ridges along the sides. It brought me back many decades to the days of breaking such happy trails through deeper snow of my South Deerfield childhood, when we still enjoyed a brand of freedom today’s kids can only fantasize about. I’m glad I got to sample Tom Sawyer/Huck Finn freedom, and vowed to never allow anyone to deny it. It’s called free will and autonomy, which I still savor.

As I passed a couple of small apple trees and swung left at the edge of a thin marsh and straight beaver channel, I reached the spot where, tired, I had the previous day turned back to the truck. This time, I decided to break a trail around the second field, bordered at the back by a large swamp, woods and a beaver dam and pond, past the dam to a large riverbank apple tree standing tall and proud in the open, 10 feet overlooking the rattling river. Although I had delayed till noontime to give the snow softening time for easy walking, no such luck, with crust still there to increase the workload. But hey, what the heck? Hadn’t I come for exercise? Yeah. And that’s exactly what I was getting as I passed the beaver dam and heard a distant call.

“Gary?”

“Yeah?”

“Oh, just checking. I couldn’t see you.”

Wives are born worry warts? I guess they don’t want to be widows. Who can blame them? Even if you do carry whole-life protection.

“Follow the road to the woods’ edge,” I yelled. “I’ll meet you there.”

The brief interaction got young Chubby’s attention. At the sound of Joey’s voice, he turned, froze like a statue facing her, perked his liver-colored ears up, and sprinted toward her in joyous six-foot leaps, arriving at her side quickly. “Stay down,” she ordered, and he reluctantly heeded her stern command, tail wagging his entire hind end before wheeling around, sprinting back to me, spotting Lily nearby and bowling his mom over in the snow. Then the chase was on, indignant Lily-Butt having none of it, quickly reciprocating by rough-housing Chub-Chub over on his back in the snow. Me? Well, by then my wool hat was off, the red tassel hanging out my wool vest’s pocket, sweat streaming down my brow, into my eyes and over my rosy-red cheeks.

“It’s good for ya,” I told my wife upon reconnecting. “Gotta open up your carburetors, get the blood flowing.”

She just shook her head a bit and gave me one of those looks all men have seen from spouses. She wasn’t going to argue, knew I was right. We finished breaking the trail together, her following me back to the truck, carefully stepping where I hadn’t. Teamwork.

Since that day, I’ve returned to the scene several times, clearing the trail a little more each day, just like I used to as a boy doing what boys do, much of it unprintable. I’m never shy to tell the fellas that the best tales can seldom be written, at least not in a newspaper. But perhaps the times, they are a changin’. I keep reading that newspapers are passé, dying slow, tedious deaths. If so, it’ll be from self-inflicted wounds. Conservatism ain’t where it’s at. Never was, never will be. If you don’t believe it, study history. Interpret. The message is clear.

Pay heed.

Fever Pitch

Whew! A wild Wednesday morning indeed. No complaints. But the craziness kept on coming in the afternoon: the phone, a visit, all stacked atop a disorienting head cold.

Oh well, how can a man in my line of work complain when you don’t have to leave the house for nourishing column fodder? I guess it helps when you stumble onto a hot topic. Apparently, I’ve done that. Yes, it seems I’ve riled a hornets’ nest and it’s attacking like a swarm of white-faced assassins with bad attitude.

That’s OK. “Bring it on,” is all I can say. “Bring it freakin’ on!”

But, first, a little confession. I admit to arriving at this familiar walnut chair with selfish intent, purring space-heater exhaling warmth on the back of my neck. The plan was to write about the preliminary Massachusetts deer-harvest numbers minus blackpowder season and leave it at that. I figured it would be fast and easy, then back to other stuff that’s recently seized me with an enraged-lumberjack grip. The MassWildlife press release publicizing 2012 deer numbers arrived last week, a day late, of course, to use as fresh news here. So, yeah, I know it’s probably old by now. But what the heck, I convinced myself, why not just throw it out there and return to a far more captivating topic that seems to be gaining speed these days, like bald tires sliding down an icy mountain pass?

Well, at least that was the strategy I had developed while running the dogs in bitter-cold, refreshing morning air. Then, with that daily chore complete, the dogs content, tails wagging for more as I departed, I sat down in the study to begin a weekly task and — Bingo! — an enticing email from Montague to huff the bellows on a current subject of interest. Reacting to last week’s column about a hidden balanced rock and sacred landscape in our western hills, a woman wrote to say she thinks she’s discovered an ancient ritualistic site in woods near her home and would like me to take a look. I do intend to take that field trip, the sooner the better, and told her so in my reply. Hey, why not? Sure beats sitting home before a toasty,  crackling, whispering Rumford fireplace and convincing yourself it’s too cold for outdoor activity? Plus, I understand how magic stark winter woodlands can be once you get there. I will get there with this new potential sacred landscape pulling like a stormy riptide.

But wait. No sooner had I fired off that email response than my desk phone rang. I vaguely recognized the caller-ID, couldn’t place it but answered nonetheless, confident it wasn’t some annoying solicitor reading a monotonous sales pitch. Nope, a welcome intrusion instead — a so-called “avocational-archaeologist” who’s all wound up about a forgotten Paleo site on Sugarloaf’s front lap, and the alleged secret UMass excavations at Deerfield’s Fort and Pine hills. The man hadn’t seen my last week’s column until somebody at the Post Office questioned him and handed it to him Wednesday morning on his daily rounds. He went home, read it and promptly gave me a ring. Not only that but he wanted to stop by with a pile of documents he thought might entice me to keep chasing a subject he thinks ought to be pursued.

Yes, I told him, bring it by.

So here I sit, pondering this and that after blowing through that book I mentioned last week here: “In the Maelstrom of Change: The Indian River Trade and Cultural Process in the Middle Connecticut Valley, 1635-1665,” by South Deerfield native and UVM anthropologist/archaeologist Peter A Thomas. A great read, I would recommended it to anyone interested in the contact-period Indians that called our Pioneer Valley home. No, not a word about sacred landscapes, but not far off, either. Same bolt of cloth, so to speak; much better, from my perspective, than any freakin’ deer-harvest numbers from week-old press releases. But this is a newspaper so, first, those week-old numbers. Then, who knows where we’ll meander  off to? Potentially dangerous territory.

I’ll keep the deer discussion brief. After all, the numbers are preliminary and do not include those from the primitive-firearm season. The numbers will be much more meaningful once complete, digested and professionally analyzed, but it’s anyone’s guess when they’ll arrive, hopefully before the shad run and the turkeys gobble. Anyway, the early, incomplete deer-harvest is 8,912. Broken down, that includes 4,945 shotgun kills, 3,879 archery kills, 84 Quabbin kills and four successes during the paraplegic season. A quick glance reveals a troubling development that remains blatantly persistent: a harvest dominated by the eastern half of the state. Excluding the Quabbin kill because the state reservation overlaps the western/central region, and the paraplegic harvest, which gives no kill locations, a measly 24 percent of 8,824 deer taken statewide during the archery and shotgun seasons came from the Western and Connecticut Valley wildlife districts. Yup, that’s right, 76 percent of the deer were killed in the eastern half of the state. If the blackpowder harvest stays consistent with others in recent years, we’ll be looking at about 2,000 additional kills, most from the eastern half, producing an all-weapon harvest in the familiar neighborhood of 11,000.

But enough of that for now, back for a moment to sacred landscapes from New England’s prehistoric past. Wednesday’s email correspondent apologized for her delayed response. What she didn’t know was that hers was just one of many queries and comments I received by email and telephone after that column hit the street. One correspondent was none other than the widow of Byron E. Dix, co-author of “Mainitou: The Sacred Landscape of New England’s Native Civilization.” She too wanted to meet and talk. The meeting is coming, trust me. Ancient ritualistic landscapes seem to be a torrid topic here in Franklin County at the moment. I’m basing my opinion on the crowds I have witnessed at a couple of local presentations. The most recent, a Pioneer Valley Institute-sponsored lecture by Connecticut archaeologist Dr. Kenneth Feder on a rainy Monday night before Christmas at Greenfield High School, drew an audience of 100 or more. The other, held on a Saturday night in October and delivered by Ashfield stone mason Jim Vieira, attracted twice that number to Ashfield Town Hall. Some of Vieira’s wilder claims about a race of giants and Smithsonian deception are now under fire from the archaeological community, but he is standing his ground, defends some of his wilder speculations based on local town histories and 19th century newspaper clippings. Google the arguments if you don’t believe it. It’s all there.

Well, that’s all I’ve got this week. I’m out of time, too many distractions. Stay tuned. I’ll get through that pile of documents on my dining-room table, make a few calls, take a field trip, meet Ms. Dix and associates and see where it leads me.

I love it when this kind of stuff jumps into my path on a slick winter trail. Who knows? It may just get me through the winter doldrums. They say you won’t catch the fever if you flee the cabin.

Indian Ridge

My Filson woolens — Woodland-camo, toasty-warm and oh-so silent through winter thickets — are still hanging where I placed them in the carriage shed after Thanksgiving to air out in autumn winds. Yes, and the rugged, insulated hunting boots I twice dressed with different waterproofing oils are ready to go if I get the itch, unlikely indeed at this point. No regrets. I enjoyed a relaxing vacation spiced by alternative hunts, those for information in a home I enjoy, interesting items scattered about, all with tales to tell, even family lore that can stir the imagination on random midday whims. Just me, I suppose, not for everyone.

I was hoping a book I ordered online some time ago from a California dealer would be in the mail when I heard the distinctive purr of mail-lady Rose’s jeep approaching Monday morning. That way I could get a holiday jump on it, waking early to read when all is still. No such luck. I knew it would take a while to travel cross-country this time of year. No problem. I can wait. So here I sit, day off, banging out my first column after a free month, time once spent chasing around, trying to match wits with deer on their turf, never easy. This time, I never stepped foot in the woods, gun in hand. Just couldn’t get motivated after what I observed during two long preseason rambles through high country that has lured me for more than 40 years. And, yes, I must admit the fresh “POSTED” signs dated Nov. 25, 2012 on a backyard woodlot I’ve hunted for 15 years didn’t help any, either. I tried but was unable to hook up with the owner to reacquire permission. Oh well, plenty of other stuff to keep me busy. Interesting explorations at that, some related to Indians who once called our Pioneer Valley home.

The book I’ve been awaiting was written by a man I have vague memories of from my South Deerfield boyhood. Probably 10 years older than me, his name is Peter Thomas, a retired UVM anthropology/archeology professor, son of retired Amherst High English teacher Les Thomas, still going strong in his 90s — his thick, white, wavy head of hair the envy of young men. Both places I called home as a boy were in the Thomas neighborhood, where my daily travels downtown or to the Sugarloafs and beyond would have led me right past the eastern and western perimeters of the neat, yellow North Main Street homestead. Which isn’t to say I knew the family. No, in fact, were I to bump into the author tomorrow afternoon on the South Deerfield Common, I wouldn’t recognize him. I’ve known his work for some time and have read many of his essays, but not his signature work, “In The Maelstrom of Change: The Indian Trade and Cultural Process in the Middle Connecticut River Valley: 1635-1665.” Well, that’s about to change. I finally broke down and bought it, not cheap, toward the end of vacation. Published in 1990 and nearly 600 pages long, it’s regarded as the definitive scholarly work on the Native tribes that resided in our valley at the time of 17th century Dutch and English intrusion. We’re talking about Sokoki, Pocumtuck, Norwottuck and Woronoco, Algonquian cousins, friends and allies connected by marriage, seasonal fishing celebrations and cooperative trade networks in every direction. What I find most fascinating about these indigenous people is the mystery. Much more is unknown than known about these tribes we ruthlessly  displaced. And now, according to a local amateur archeologist and researcher well known to the professional community, many “secret” excavations have recently been conducted right under our noses, the recovered artifacts squirreled away in dark UMass repositories, the written reports hidden from public consumption. Why? I guess I’ll have to explore these claims over the winter, a good time for such endeavors. According to my source, no one involved is forthcoming with information, in fact quite secretive. We’ll see. It could prove interesting. I believe the discoveries should be public, exposed and explored to the fullest extent. People would be interested. How can anyone not find our rich Paleoindian history fascinating?

Myself, awaking daily as a teen looking out at the Bloody Brook Monument across the street, I developed a lively curiosity about our vanquished Pioneer Valley tribes, and have over the years absorbed much about them as well as neighboring tribes of the Connecticut, Hudson, Mohawk and Champlain valleys, not to mention those of the Merrimack Valley, central Massachusetts and coastal New England. This insatiable hunger for knowledge, which has been active since childhood, was rekindled in recent months by introduction to sacred landscapes in the book “Manitou,” which immediately brought to mind a remote spot high in our western hills. I just knew it fit snugly into the ritualistic-landscape scheme I had read of. Well, a couple of Sunday-morning trips to this site overlooking a historic Indian trail and the faraway lower Pioneer Valley did nothing to discourage my suspicions; in fact, quite the contrary. And when I snapped several pictures of a newfound cairn and stone structure I believed to be a prayer seat above an active spring and balanced rock of local legend buried high and deep in the woods, I emailed the snapshots accompanied by a site description to an expert who’s written books on the subject of New England stones and stone structures with prehistoric Native significance. The man shared my photos with his scholarly mother, fired back with many questions and ultimately concluded that I was onto something important, which I can’t say surprised me.

Call me crazy but that entire ridge, the impressive stonewalls surrounding it, and especially the balanced rock have always, to me, screamed of spirituality. When, just before Thanksgiving, I revisited the rock for the first time in some 20 years, I overshot it to the south, traveled through a wet, narrow ravine and ascended steep rocky terrain to the peak of the next ridge west, where I stumbled upon the cairn that closely resembled photos of others I had seen in recent books read. That’s what really got my wheels spinning. So here I sit, pondering my next move, eagerly anticipating another mountain-top mission, camera in hand, plan in mind. I’ll follow the walls in search of irregularities, zig-zags, openings, half-moon or square warts. You name it, I’m looking, probing, trying to connect the dots, a fascinating jigsaw puzzle of sorts.

Those two trips through traditional trophy-buck country sure didn’t rev me up for deer hunting, though. In four or five hours traipsing around an area where I’ve seen lots of imressive deer sign in the past, I saw one lousy pile of old black droppings and not a rutting scrape anywhere. Moose? Well, that was another story. Moose sign was everywhere, lots of it fresh and loud on the second trip. But there was nothing in those woods to excite a deer hunter. Oaks, beech and hickory everywhere, not a nut on the ground, no birds, not even the distant bark of a squirrel. The silence was deafening, eerie, in fact. With feed scarce, so were the beasts that eat it, having likely moved to hayfields at lower elevations. Don’t ask me why the moose were up there. I don’t understand moose. But what a mess the rutting bull that passed through had left, marking territory by rubbing small tree trunks bare, shredding and snapping several two-inch hemlocks in half. Helen Keller could have seen it.

Other than that, only ancient indigenous spirits whistling through naked, barren, ridge-top hardwoods, almost spooky, especially the unusual shagbark hickory sporting seven sturdy trunks. No camera on that trip, the first.

I shall return. Promise.

Last Call

Tuesday morning. Gray and wet. Forecast: clear and cool later, a great time to go out back, get the dogs and break free for a robust hunt through a saturated bottomland swamp of my choice. My guess is that it’ll be t’other side the Connecticut River.

Lily and Chubby are restless. Chub-Chub was limping Monday and I left them both home to hunt over sister Sarah, who I sold locally last year. A lean, mean, leggy liver and white, her sleek, aristocratic profile in dominant bright white gives her a flashy presence in a tangled upland marsh. And as I observed her, compared her to her brother, no slouch in his own right, I even got a taste of a new hilltown covert I had heard about but never hunted. It’s my kind of place, quintessential New England landscape, the cover a little sparse but adequate, especially the orchard. I’ll stop right there, though, would hate to make the site easily identifiable.

As I stood looking south at peaks familiar to me from the opposite direction, it occurred to me how different perspectives can radically alter identical views. Me, well, I look at the  mowings, the web-like sugar-bush tubing, distant peaks, thin treelines between fields, and I pray the scenery never changes, is somehow protected from dozers and dump trucks. The Mitt Romneys of the world? Well, totally different. They want to know the cost of 500 acres in such a pretty place. Then, with the figure fresh in mind, they quickly compute how many times they could double their investment with a cul-de-sac here, a culvert or stone-arch bridge there, stately, well-spaced McMansions scattered about the hillsides, all with tasteful four-season landscaping and million-dollar views. I’m not saying my perspective is any better than theirs, just that I’m not wired like them. I guess I’m condemned to struggle from check to check, valuing preservation and conservation over investment and profit, education over capitalization. Just me, I guess. I must be dumb.

Which reminds me: This will be my last column of the year. My annual December vacation is a week away. It always starts on Thanksgiving and goes through Christmas. I once used the extended time off to chase deer and catch up on random chores around the house. Not anymore. Yeah, I still typically get my last couple cords of wood into the shed and do, when I feel like it, take my gun for a walk through sacred woods I cherish, exploring, comparing, reading sign, assessing the prospects. If I stumble into a good setup with plentiful sign, feel confident and ultimately put meat in the freezer, great! If not, well, that’s OK, too. I refuse to make an anxiety-ridden project of deer hunting, avoid putting any pressure on myself. I have nothing to prove. I’ll still be a man if I don’t shoot a deer. Sure, I like salubrious venison chops, and I love the anticipation, the optimism of hunting a fresh snow, walking quietly during a light rain, and I truly enjoy melting into the habitat like a silent owl perched in a tall shagbark hickory, watching, listening, exploring each subtle sound and distant movement. But if I stand up just before dark, take three or four steps toward my truck and kick out an approaching deer, even an antlered buck, I won’t lose any sleep over it. No. I’ll just return home, air out my clothing on hangers in the open carriage shed, make a half-pot of coffee, fix something healthy to eat and settle in with a good book about Native Americans, old revolutionaries, the war of the sexes — ancient, timeless subjects I want to understand, apply to the present. Some people who exhaust themselves in solitary treestands night after night have no clue what makes a man like me tick. But that’s OK. Why worry about it? I’m cool with their priorities. They ought to respect mine.

In recent weeks I’ve come to know and enjoy one of many fascinating artists tucked away in the Hampshire/Franklin hills late friend Bill Hubbard, dean of Pioneer Valley antique dealers, claimed were “honeycombed with important and interesting people.” This new friend, a loyal reader and, better still, a high-school dropout, is just such a man. You look at what he creates with his bare hands and imagination and think, “Wow, what talent! What does that say about the schools he rejected?” Yet now, with the economy sagging and money tight, he and many of his ilk are struggling to make ends meet. When I sit at my table and talk to him, on and on we go, various subjects, compatible in many areas. Then he’s gone, toting off an old mirrored sconce and a post lantern in need of repair. I wonder why it is that honest, humble souls must struggle while vulture capitalists thrive, live in whichever of their five palatial homes tickles their fancy at the moment, and squirrel away more cash than their greatest of grandchildren could ever spend by orchestrating and profiting from others’ demise. I guess it’s for the same reason people who can’t play, coach, can’t write, edit, can’t do, teach. Such folks are best at telling their bosses what they want to hear while perfecting the art of shameless self-promotion. It’s crazy-making and quite eschewed. We put our phonies and thieves on Chamber of Commerce pedestals and harangue our artists, our thinkers as weirdos. It’s nothing new. Just the way it is. The way it always has been, it seems, in Western civilization. Look at all the great people who have over the ages suffered at the hands of power and greed and injustice. Give me this sort any day to surround myself with in retirement, not clock-punching bores and yes men who beat their wives and kick their pets in the comforts of home, then sit in the front row for Sunday worship.

But enough of that. A flood of email feedback arrived last week to inform me that bowhunting’s been slow, acorns and apples scarce indeed. Interesting. I have not searched hard but have seen acorns around. Not so with apples, especially wild ones, which I agree are scarce. The prevailing wisdom says the rut is late because of unseasonably warm temperatures. I don’t know about that, either, suspect that temperature has little to do with male desire. The Rutting Moon? Now, that I believe in. The second full moon after the Autumnal Equinox, the Rutting Moon appeared on Oct. 29, now long gone. In fact, the new moon appeared this week. Who knows? Maybe this Full Beaver Moon of Nov. 28 will rev things up. Know what that means? That bucks may be roaming and vulnerable when shotgun season opens on Nov. 26. So maybe it’ll be a good year for being in the right place at the right time while taking a break against a big red oak during woodland, gun-toting travels. If so, superb! If not, aaah, I can live with it. Hunting is, to me, R&R, not work, and definitely not competition.

So, unless something unforeseen slaps me upside the head while I’m vacationing, I’ll see you after Christmas. Can’t pretend I’m not anxiously anticipating calling my own shots for a month, a dress rehearsal of sorts for looming retirement, which ain’t far off. Trust me, I won’t be one of those guys who doesn’t know what to do with himself with formal work in the rearview. I have much to say that a family paper doesn’t want to print.

Soon, it’ll be no holds barred. I can’t wait.

Deerly Departed

Gray and raw, storm brewing, stiff wind blowing from the frigid north: perfect for hunting on the day following an election I’m happy with. So here I sit, dry-docked, pinned to this weekly chore, thinking of late buddy Tommy Valiton, a man who glowed with a boy’s enthusiasm every time he exited his red truck in my driveway to chase pheasants.

I miss that warm-hearted, crew-cut Marine and high school coach for many reasons not related to politics, which we typically disagreed on but could still discuss in a civil manner. He would’ve been a Romney man, I think, but we wouldn’t have dwelt on that, maybe just touched on it before fluttering off to more agreeable topics. What I miss most are Tommy’s deer-hunting insights, especially his telephone alerts to bowhunters who had bagged monster bucks that had hilltown coffee shops abuzz. From our frequent evening chats and hunts each fall, I would know what stage of the rut bucks were in, what the does were up to, and whatever else he was observing from his productive tree perches, always helpful information for a man assembling a weekly column like mine. Of course, back then, a Tommy-tip would spark a quick call to familiar checking-station sources who’d confirm his tales, often furnishing additional anecdotes to spice the flavor. Yes, those were the good old days. Free and easy. Spontaneous. Exactly how I like it. A different story these days, when I’m forced through a stifling bureaucratic process that demands clearance from a state screening agency. To be perfectly honest, this annoying intermediary has never denied my requests, but check-station personnel have been told not to release hunters’ phone numbers, just one more restriction that hamstrings a news-gathering mission.

Because I haven’t heard a word about it anywhere, I’m guessing that the archery deer season has been slow thus far. Yes, it’s true I live in an old tavern, but that’s about as close as I get to barrooms, which I’ve taken off my visits list, eliminating a great rumor mill. But, still, not so much as a gas-station whisper, a lonely email or phone call? Nope. Utter silence. Curious indeed. Which isn’t to say a tidbit isn’t bound to come my way sometime before Turkey Day. Some may recall I lucked out last year when an infamous young Greenfield nimrod I happen to know and enjoy pulled into my yard sporting a major racker worthy of print lying on the bed of his pickup. I enjoyed that morning visit and lively chatter and even went to my study to lend him a book about the four stages of the rut, a hardcover with a plastic sleeve protecting the dust jacket. Unfortunately, I suspect the book is long gone, totally my fault. Although I know better than to loan out books, I thought he’d enjoy it, and believe he did. Now it’s a goner. Oh well. Live and learn. I do understand, did it a few times myself when young. Can’t say I’m proud of it, though.

As for bird hunting, well, I can’t complain. I’ve changed my routine and rediscovered private coverts that are still as productive as they were many years ago when hunting with another late friend I called “Old Smitty” because of the L.C. Smith side-by-side he carried. The poor fella crashed his car into a giant maple tree and died way too young. But, anyway, I’d say that despite receiving fewer birds now than 20 years ago, these private covers I’m revisiting seem to hold birds longer today than they did in the past. Why? Because the state has redirected hunting pressure away from private property to its Wildlife Management Areas, where hunters are well aware most pheasants are today stocked.

Just Tuesday, stopping at a spot where in the past I enjoyed consistent success, sure enough, I got into quite a cluster of pheasant flushes. Hunting with a buddy and three dogs, we shot some and scattered the rest willy-nilly throughout a dense cattail and alder swamp, assuring there’ll be many left upon our return. In fact, I may just head right back there upon finishing the first draft of this weekly chore. I’m running late and am sure the dogs are getting impatient for their daily, mud- and blood-splattered ramble. Young Chubby is really coming into his own. Now that he’s gotten a good noseful of pheasant, he’s showing the same enthusiasm as mother Lily and the late Ringo, a distant cousin. Chubby-Chub is big, rugged and athletic, a real brush-buster, akin to a world-class tight end or linebacker, and much easier to handle than headstrong Ringy, although no less aggressive or tireless, a great nose, to boot. It’s exciting to watch him “light up” on a hot scent. He flips his switch to frantic, bouncing, snorting, perking his ears up when he thinks the bird is right there. Give him more experience, one-on-one and retrieves and he’ll surely be giving me those “Please?” over-the-shoulder looks Ringy used to flash when he heard a distant cock crowing. When bored by inaction, I’d extend my arm in the direction of the rooster, say “Find him!” and wait as he made a beeline toward the enticing sound. It wouldn’t be long before I’d hear a loud cackle and see a long-tailed rooster fly out of the alders. If it came my way, I’d shoot. If not, no problem, it’d likely be there another day. Trust me, Chubby will soon be begging for similar search-and-destroy permission, and he never witnessed any Ringy adventures.

In closing, I must say I’m relieved that Mitt Romney is gone for good. Don’t let the door hit ya where the lord split ya. That’s my response. We didn’t need him. Now his Neanderthal party better reinvent itself. Either that or brace for Hillary in 2016. Meanwhile, our postal workers and service employees can breathe a deep sigh of relief as the right-wing haters who begrudge pensions shake in their shiny black boots with cleats on the heels.

Glory, glory hallelujah! Could it be that Ronald Reagan’s America is dead and gone? I sure hope so but am not confident. I remember thinking Nixon was gone for good during the Clinton term. Then his diabolical ghost reappeared with Cheney, Rumsfeld and other Nixon retreads in the Bush Administration we’re still recovering from.

It could happen again in a country that doesn’t seem to learn from its mistakes.

Election Season

Whew! What a morning.

It started OK after a restless night’s sleep. I arose a little late, poured black coffee and went to my favorite chair, where natural morning light through the southern window illuminates whatever I’m reading, even under cloudy skies. An hour or so later, my thoughts turned to the dogs, Lily and Chubby, likely anticipating another swamp free-for-all like Tuesday’s. First, I had to check my computer. Unable to retrieve email or access the Internet at midnight, I shut it down overnight, hoping to regain access to both in the morning. If not, I knew the drill. I’d have to disconnect all the lines from the modem and router, unplug the cord from the wall and let it sit at least a minute before reconnecting everything in reverse order. Although it works 99 percent of the time, I hate doing it. Just not for me. Way too technical. No desire to tinker with computers. Well, the good news was that the quick-fix worked. Then the phone rang. Caller ID was a cerebral distant cousin I enjoy chatting with. She’s been around, has sophisticated political insights and often suggests interesting reading. She touched upon a subject I wanted to discuss and off we went to ancient Sanderson matters, more than an hour. We even hopped across the pond, where fascism  spawned. Oooooo! Taboo. Leave it! The guardians of freedom, liberty and justice are watching; bar-stool sophists, too. Never wise to stir their ignorant ire.

So here I sit, running late, probably no chance of squeezing in a quick hunt. Although I haven’t totally dismissed hunting yet, it ain’t looking good. Poor dogs. They love a good, mud-splattered ramble. Me, too.

Anyway, how grateful I am that I got a jump on this chore Tuesday. Yep, sat down with my hair still wet from the shower, sweat-soaked hunting garb hanging out in the carriage shed to dry, sheltered from blustery, post-Sandy winds that had not been an issue during our two-hour romp through what used to be my favorite pheasant covert, now too crowded. I don’t mind admitting I was pleased to find this special place, indelibly stained with family DNA, vacant. Not a hunter in sight. Rare indeed. Can’t say I was counting on it, either. Just rode through on a whim and was pleasantly surprised. When I saw that I had the big overgrown field to myself, I backed my truck in, slipped on my vest, loaded my side-by-side, and let the dogs out of their crates to joyously zig and zag through tangled, thorny cover we know and love. Lily recognized the place immediately, was tell-tail pleased with my choice. Don’t believe that old wives’ tale about dogs having no ability to reason. Lily knows this covert like her kennel. I’m convinced she even remembers my preferred route and where she is most likely to flush birds. It was a good hunt: two well-spaced flushes, a hen and a cock on opposite ends, and outta there. Returning homeward, I took the back way over Stillwater for two gallons of cider at Clarkdale, a customary bird-hunting stop. I do enjoy talking to Tom and Ben, the dad a Woodstock brother, no less.

Hunting alone, I had enjoyed fresh-air solitude, heavenly indeed — a little sun, a lot of wind, too warm, plenty of time to let my mind wander, some of it unprintable in a family paper. Actually, my cranial wheels started spinning right out of the gate, on the ride down Colrain Road, before I even reached the Mohawk Trail. Between the Big Y Plaza and GCC, I spotted a strapping young man walking downtown with a child in a stroller, another riding his backpack. It got me wondering how many more of these unfortunate homeless souls will be wandering aimlessly about if Mitt Romney wins. Some folks with young kids now get to stay in motels. Where they’ll stay if Romney gets in, I can only imagine. I think it’ll be ugly. Which reminded me of the Stephen Stills’, pre-election, Rolling Stone-online editorial I had just read. A counter-culture singer-songwriting icon from the Sixties, Stills has never been bashful about saying what he thinks. This time, he describes Romney as, “just raw ambition with no real ideology,” which is spot-on, in my opinion. But it gets worse for all the Mitt-wits. The author of that Sixties anthem “For What It’s Worth,” went on to complain, “I never in my lifetime thought I would see a creepier politician than Richard Nixon, but in the last few days, it became clear that Willard Mitt Romney is really, really creepy. Icky creepy, as my granddaughter would put it.”

Horrors. What have we come to? I couldn’t agree more with Stills, another Woodstock brother, one I listened to in the rain and smelly red mud, still respect. Artists have clearer vision than the rest of us. I believe that. Now we can only hope and pray that something isn’t again “happening here.” But I fear the worst with this scary election less than a week away. Don’t forget that our unfortunate homeless right off the streets of Dickens’ London — many of them insane and pharmaceutically-institutionalized to save money; some veterans  — exploded onto the landscape during the glorious Reagan regime of right-wing nirvana. Romney is worse; and, trust me, I’m no Ronnie Ray Gun fan. Profiles of Romney, his vulture-capitalist company and Mormon beliefs are “out there” for all to digest. Problem is, folks who should be reading it, these mythical “undecideds” (more like clueless) we hear so much about, rely instead on “news sources” like Roger Ailes’ insidious Fox-News propaganda machine. Talk about creepy. It’s straight out of Orwellian newspeak. Some will say MSNBC is no better. I disagree. At least Rachel Maddow is a Rhodes-Scholar, a probing, Happy Valley intellectual and sophisticated researcher whose truth-seeking and fact-checking intentions I find laudable. Someone has to demand the truth, or at least try before windbags like Sean Hannity and the Fundamentalist noise machine cuffs them upside the head. Can anyone find me three more diabolical TV “news” commentators than Hannity, Karl Rove and Ann Coultner. Well, I guess Joseph Goebbels was worse. Who knows? We’re just getting started on this continent.

But enough of that stuff. I don’t want to get myself into trouble with the frothing, flag-waving Brown Shirts trying to protect their chauvinistic mirage. Back to hunting, even if I must stay in a ranting mode. I had intended this week to revisit a subject mentioned weeks ago about a record bear harvest set during our three-week September season. This much I can say for certain: The preliminary harvest, according to a spokesperson for state Bear Project Leader Laura Hajduk Conlee, was a record 168. The previous mark was 142, duplicated in successive years before Gov. Romney made it next to impossible to gather information from public servants. When I fired off a follow-up email asking for potential contributing factors to the record harvest, not surprisingly, MassWildlife’s response was hollow silence. Growing impatient at the end of last week, I sent a sarcastic email to the only source at Field Headquarters in Westborough permitted to spontaneously speak to the press, though I would guess that’s stretching it a bit. Well, I must give the lady credit. She responded to me promptly Monday, the state hurricane “holiday” for Sandy. So how can I say the woman’s not a dedicated, conscientious employee? I’ll give her that. Still, her response was pathetic, yet not necessarily her fault. She said Ms. Conlee was not comfortable discussing reasons for the record harvest until she had reviewed all data.

Hmmmm? Give me a freakin’ break. This is the state Bear Project Leader we’re talking about, not some bean counter. She’s charged with managing our bear population, putting out brush fires and assessing the statewide dynamic, while overseeing tagging, collaring, tranquilizing and relocating. You name it, she’s the boss when it comes to bears, and that includes field research, which she does plenty of. When bear-checking stations were fair game and I made my annual, pre-Romney harvest sweeps from one to another, speaking to men and women who weighed the bloody beasts on their scales, there was never a shortage of interesting information and colorful hunting yarns to share. Successful hunters love to talk. Yeah, sure, there’s always a chance that some of the chatter is pure fiction. And, yes, no question some of the folks who claim to shoot bears in the beechnuts or oaks or hickories actually shot them over illegal bait hauled into their stand. But, tell me, what about that will change next week or next month? Ms. Hajduk no doubt spoke in September to checking-station personnel, especially her colleagues at the hatcheries and district offices, and she has to have an idea as to why hunters experienced unusual success. Clearly, the woman just doesn’t want to be bothered and, frankly, I’m sick of chasing uncooperative people who don’t understand “news,” demand I wait like everyone else for their useless press releases that arrive months after the fact, by which time readers have forgotten there was a bear season, and hunters ask, “What the fuck took you so long?”

Well, fellas, don’t blame me. The culprit is our secretive former governor, Bain Capital CEO and current presidential candidate, a man you’ll likely vote for because the NRA tells you to. Count me out. I’m going in the other direction without a worry in the world that my guns will be confiscated. Like my colonial ancestors, I pay no heed to reactionaries. In fact, I find then quite boring and destructive.

Oh yeah, one more quickie before I go. I see where New York City was underwater this week. How can that be, you ask? Well, truth is that the people who are surprised haven’t been listening. They’re the same folks who broke into hysterical laughter when Uncle Mitt taunted global-warming fears during his Convention speech. Sadly, there’ll be no last laughs on this dire issue. Just terrifying tears of shame.

Adjustments

Finally, a cool gray day on which to chase the dogs through a tangled, thorny swamp, though I must admit Wednesday was still a bit warm for me.

I guess I could have chosen the easy route today, having written 850 words Monday, following a pleasant, windy, sunny hunt in an anonymous place. Two robust hours through dense, wet cover, and three kills: a cock pheasant and two woodcock, also two other woodcock flushes that eluded me. That’s a good day in my book, lots of exercise and fresh air. The biggest problem was burdocks; my dogs were loaded with them, on their ears, their chests, along both rib cages. I think I’ll have to get my buddy over with his Oster clippers. It’s that bad. Lily and Chubby just refuse to sit still and allow me to remove the spiky critters with a metal comb. I removed the easy ones. That’s it. What a freakin’ mess.

On Wednesday, more of the same in a different covert farther away than I prefer to travel with the price of gas what it is. I’ll do just about anything to get away from hunter-orange brigades in familiar old coverts that have become crazy the past couple of years. On the way home, walking out of a convenience store with coffee, a young fella wearing an orange cap spotted my attire and approached, asking if I had any luck. Yes, a couple of roosters and two woodcock. I don’t think he believed me. He wanted to see them.  I opened my tailgate, dogs wagging their tails. The four birds were laying on the bed. When he asked me where I got them, I could have given him my old buddy Big Stash’s favorite answer — “In the neck!” — but chose instead Chi-CO-pee, emphasis on the CO. The look told me he understood.

We got to blabbing and I disclosed an embarrassing mistake I had made earlier. I realized just before turning down the final road to park that I had forgotten my vest. Yep, left it hanging in clear view on its carriage-shed nail. Just what I needed, one more reminder that I’m getting old, this a day after accepting an offer from the Outdoor Writers Association of America to change my status from “Active” to “Senior Active,” eliminating annoying periodic audits I’ve grown to accept. Had it been a forgotten shotgun, I would have checked myself  into the nearest Alzheimer’s clinic for 24-hour observation. But it was just a vest. No big deal. Yeah, it would make things more difficult if I needed a game-bag. But I was wearing rugged bibs, had two boxes of shells in the truck, could get through it and did, with aplomb. I just put five shells in each hip pocket, stuffed the woodcock between my bibs and belt, and dangled that first pheasant by my side from its feet, dropping it for the final flush, even tossing it a few times for young Chubby to retrieve. When the second rooster came up t’other side of an alder clump, I dropped a passing shot, ending my hunt. Lily soon retrieved the ringneck and we took the long trek back to the truck, gun in one hand, two cock birds dangling from the other, the two woodcock tucked away. Oh well, what’s a little more blood on a stained, faded, patched hunting shirt?

Bird hunting is, for me, about patterns. Always has been. The problem is that those patterns change due to factors beyond my control. For one thing, I have over the years familiarized many hunting buddies with favorite coverts, where they continue to follow my paths with other dogs and hunters. No problem. When my favorite spots get too busy, I just revisit old ones I have neglected for decades. When I discover a place where the flushes are frequent, the pressure thin, I keep it to myself and carve out a new route, continually checking other trusty old coverts in passing. Such locations exist on both sides of the Connecticut River, and it’s getting to the point where I must be secretive about good quiet sites others would love to discover.

I’m not hesitant to confess that I miss old friends’ private coverts which no longer get stocked for one reason or another. Stocking patterns change. Not always for the better. It seems the state prefers loading up its own Wildlife Management Areas these days, with the one at Swift River receiving daily allotments, others closer to home guaranteed two stockings per week. It’s no secret now that it’s “out there” on the web, and the fellas are always on the lookout, patrolling, hoping to arrive at a field full of freshly stocked birds that are little challenge to bag. Experienced gun dogs often catch such birds and bring them back without a pellet in them — called table birds by some — to me, not a meat hunter, a waste of time. Give me a two-hour hunt with three or four flushes and I’m happy, no cluster flushes or orange-clad troops, please. That said, it’s gotten to the point where a man can no longer bide time for a day or two after a covert’s been stocked, because by the time you arrive, there’ll likely be nothing left, especially early in the season, before pheasants discover impenetrable sanctuaries of thick alders and sharp prickers, the ground below mostly submerged in deep beaver-dam slop. Pheasants that survive the first few hours and days soon learn how to stay out of harm’s way by taking daily refuge on “islands” in such beaver wetlands and flying back and forth from feeding sites. I’ve witnessed this phenomenon but don’t often identify locations. Perceptive hunters observe such activity, learn acclimated birds’ habits and know survivors will frequent the same feeding zones over and over again once their new habitat becomes home.

I may be wrong but it sure seems to me that there are more pheasant hunters out there nowadays with good gun dogs than 20 years ago. Then again, maybe I was spoiled back then, when I knew the owners of private coverts and hunted their property often, usually with the place to myself, never crowded. Those were the days when, if a truck was parked at my first choice, no problem, I’d just move on until I found a vacant covert. These days, the WMAs seem to receive most of the birds, which makes for crowded, less enjoyable and potentially more dangerous hunting, the possibility of hunter and/or dog conflict always a concern. I suppose that’s one reason why WMAs are being stocked just before dark, the strategy likely being that then there’ll be birds left for the following day. The problem is that many of the birds stocked at dusk never see sunrise,  quickly devoured in unfamiliar surroundings by opportunistic predators, such as coyotes, foxes, fishers and birds of prey. I received a call this past weekend from a friend who hunted Northfield early Saturday morning and found 10 pheasant carcasses killed and eaten by coyotes or foxes. He knows the difference between canid kills and those of hawks or owls. Standing in a parking lot after his hunt, my friend met a pair of hunters who had toured an adjacent field with similar findings. They discovered a dozen freshly killed and partially eaten carcasses. That’s 22 pheasants killed overnight in one WMA. How many birds do you suppose were released Friday evening just before dark?

Sure, it’s a fact that exaggeration during such gab sessions is always a possibility. But even if the participants doubled the number of carcasses found, that’s still 11 dead birds, which is far too many. Had those birds been stocked in the morning and 11 of them killed by hunters before dark, the survivors would more likely be there the next day, having been given the luxury of several daylight hours to familiarize themselves with a new, wild habitat. Given even that short period to find a safe overnight nesting spot, perhaps they could evade predators. But when they touch down just before dark, disoriented after a long truck ride in transport crates of four, their chances of overnight survival can be slim indeed.

I suppose it is what it is: put-and-take hunting that’s drawing quite a crowd. No wonder gentleman wing-shooters chase grouse and woodcock, wild birds better for you on the table if you can find them.

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